old armature use

[jczpt1]

Paul, I have an old Thorp 26/27 wind armature, after seting it up with new bearings and checking it over I wanted to break it in, but it gets insanely hot, and draws about 3+ amps at 6 volts.
Also how can you determine a C-can from a B-can, this old 49 year brain doesnt remember. I'd like to get this motor going as I have a scratchbuilt chassis and would like to run it just for fun, nastalgia etc.

[Paul Ciccarello]

I would check with Monty. He has better knowledge of the older slot products.

I might not have even been born when you first ran the motor.
:D

Paul

[Slidergreg]

Not only were 26/27 doubles REALLY hot winds for the low power we used back then but they were available in counter clockwise and CLOCKWISE rotation.

Running a 26/27 in the wrong direction would make it run insanely hot.

Check it out. It may be a clockwise rotation arm.

Greg G :eek:

[jczpt1]

Well you guys Know your stuff!
But now how do I view the Roation? from the can end or the endbell to determine CC or CCW, and thanks for the info I'd did'nt know this.

[Paul Ciccarello]

If you hold the motor in you hand with the endbell on the left and the can on the right the arm should turnaway from you.

Paul

[jczpt1]

Thanks Paul for the quick response, so most cars using the can end nearest the gears are a CW rotation armature, right?
If you wanted to set up a new motor and didnt know it's rotation would you try it both directions under no load and see a: how it runs, and b: temperature?

[Paul Ciccarello]

You sort of have it right. No matter what, you will want the arm to spin the way I said. It does not matter which way you hook it up or have the magnets arranged. If it turns the opposite way I said either switch the wires or magnets. That should do the trick. Also I would break in the motor at 3-4 volts. Just about any motor will get hot at 6 volts. The brushes arcing a lot can also cause the motor to run hot.

Paul

[MSWISS]

Thank God you mentioned 6 volts is too much.Racers don't seem to realize
without a load on the motor(tires,gears,track friction)how insanely fast an open runs at 6 volts.

[Prof Fate]

Not really.

Look at the arm, you had it in a package and see which way the thing is timed. In this period, arm timing was usually pretty mild, usually 10 degrees, but if you just look at the com, you can see.

Prof.Fate

[jczpt1]

Well Prof. take me and us to school, how to read the timing, please. If I remember the contacts on the comm line up with the stack centerline if not then the degrees cw or ccw refer to the degrees timing postive or negative.

[Prof Fate]

Pay attention children.......

Look at the SLOT between the segments of the commutator. If it is exaclty in the center of the stack, it is ZERO. Pretty unlikely.
Which ever direction the slot has been moved is the "Advance" and indicates the direction of best speed.

Prof.Fate

[Paul Ciccarello]

I am not sure if this is what Greg was talking about but........

Weather the arm was wound clockwise or counter clockwise will not make a difference in the way it turns. The only way it will matter is if it is hemi wound. A hemi will run the opposite direction.

In theory clockwise vs. counter one will charge the inner coil before the outer and the other outer before the inner. Some people think is better than the other. In reality is will not make a bit of noticeable difference. All arms now a days are wound clockwise or hemi. As for the hand wound arms it is more the fact that the person it right handed that the arms are wound clockwise. The right side is where the crank is.

Paul

[Slidergreg]

Back when that kind of arm was state of the art we built our own chassis out of wire and brass and it was no harder to build a right hand drive car as it was to build a left hand drive car like we run exclusivly today.

Some folks even liked to screw the endbells to a bracket and run endbell drive.

Back then Thorpe and the other winders like Zimmerman offered arms wound and timed for optimum performance in either clockwise or counter clockwise rotation when viewed from the endbell end. The packages were stamped accordingly.

Since all our chassis are left hand drive we now run almost all counter clockwise, can drive setups.

Greg G :eek:

[Foamy]

This is set by comm timing like others have said.
Look at comm slot...
Slot to left of center of stack,gear on car on left...
Slot to right of center on stack,gear on right side of car.

[Rotorranch]

I'm guessin that Chicky, being just a young'un, may have never seen a right hand gear chassis! Or endbell drive GP27 or open motors! ;) :D :eek:

I have a couple NIP Mura GP20 arms, in both CW and CCW rotation, to restore some old early 70's cars I have. One in particular, a Champion RTR GP15 car I bought new in about 70 or 71, was an endbell drive, right hand gear car. I converted it to a can drive GP 20, which of course requires the arm to rotoate "backwards" from what we all use now! Therefore, there were CW and CCW arms. It has nothing to do with which way the wire is wound, but which way the timing is advanced.

Rotor

[Paul Ciccarello]

OOOOOOOOOOOOOhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!:D

Paul

[zipperi]

Originally posted by Rotorranch
I'm guessin that Chicky, being just a young'un, may have never seen a right hand gear chassis! Or endbell drive GP27 or open motors! ;) :D :eek:

Rotor

Back to memories...
I started '70 wih a Z-plumber mainly brass chassis (Champion perhaps) with endbell drive s24 Mura motor - guess how well it
kept with those 2 screws in plastic...
And we drove on 1/24 Scalextric 60 ft track, no glue allowed. Guess did we follow that rule...