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hesketh
01-09-2005, 07:49 AM
After not touching scale for for over 10 years I tried my hand at some high end scale racing this weekend, running Open 12 and C12E at the Isra Nats. The cars worked good I had plenty of motors that worked just fine ( racing wings at least helped with the technical car stuff) but besides lack of scale finger time generraly one thing was clear these cars require specialized controllers to make them drivable on short flat tracks. I was working on a pretty narrow range of wiper bands and it made developing a repeatable rhythm difficult. I was using a Difalco emotion fanatic relay controller, I had the pots turned all the way, the sensitivity switch on full and ran a few feet of choke depending on lanes. I still didn't have the car controll needed, even adjusting for rust, LOL. Ron VW took pity on me, wing car brotherhood and all , and told me that these cars require controllers with modifications to make them much more drivable. He specifically mentioned a much higher ohm resistor that Difalco supplys to plug into the bands. I didn't have the opportunity to talk to him very long because he was busy dominating the podium in every class. So I thought I would throw out a general question here on optimum controller setups for high end scale short flat track racing. If I am going to keep doing this I need a different setup.
Thanks,
Paul Kovich

DifalcoDesign
01-09-2005, 06:52 PM
Paul, contact me directly by e-mail at difalcoonline.com. I will send you some 39 ohm replacement resistor networks to plug into controller in place of the 22 ohm stock values. This will slow the controller range enough to run scale cars on the flat tracks.

If racers use their controller just for scale type racing they can also simply remove the ten pin resistor networks to slow controller range. Then turn all the blue Fanatic pots to halfway point. This will give you the approximate same sensitivity range as the stock controller. After this the pots can be slowed as needed to get enough range to run eurosports and even 1/32 scale cars.

JayGee
01-10-2005, 08:24 AM
and follow Jim's suggestions, the controller design I published in SCB works well for scale racing.

Since I just started a new job I haven't had time to go into production, but the schematics and parts list are out there for folks willing to spend a couple of days to build it themselves.

triggerman
01-14-2005, 05:00 AM
I followed Jim's suggestion and replaced the 22 Ohm Resistor Packs with 33 Ohm Resistor Packs (The only value available locally without special ordering). What a difference! I was struggling with my Fanatic since November but never dared use it in a race. After popping in the new resistors I felt like I had much more control. I went for broke last night and raced with it for the first time and placed second!

Bobhardt
01-14-2005, 08:20 AM
Can someone post a picture of the resistor pack they are replacing on the controller for me?

hesketh
01-14-2005, 09:24 AM
This picture is from Jim's website, they are the two little brown strips below and extending to the right from the individual blue adjustment pots on the fanatic controller. Hope that is clear?

http://www.difalcoonline.com/DD234-7R.jpg

PK

Bobhardt
01-14-2005, 01:45 PM
Thanks Paul. That pic helped a lot.

GaryH
02-01-2005, 07:21 PM
Is there some sort of modification that can be made on the DiFalco that will increase the brakes when adjusted to the maximum setting?

GaryH

Dan Ruddock
02-01-2005, 09:45 PM
All of this applies to all controller brands. About all you can do is make sure there are no high resistance connections from the black clip all the way up the controller and down to the red clip. Having a milli ohm meter makes this much easier to check but if you don't just go over everything. Start at the clips if the teeth are rounded replace them. When hooking to the track don't put the clips on the post past the teeth. Clean and polish all none soldiered connections, trigger contacts, brake pots, fuse holders, screw together connections and anything else you can find. Better yet if there is a screw together connection soldier it if possible. The H.D. pots will always have lower resistance than the economy ones and on the H.D. pots I have found that putting a little oil inside of the pot where the two little rings rub against each other helps. NEVER EVER USE ONE OF THOSE RESETTING FUSES they have high resistance and if maximum brakes is what your after they are not the way to go. Having a reasonable amount of trigger spring tension is also important. Some people like to stretch the spring on my controller to the point of hurting the brakes but don't put on a gorilla spring or things will start to bend over time. Every used controller I see across my bench has more resistance threw the brake circuit than it should because of poor maintenance sometimes by a large amount. If you have a milli meter if you are able to get it down to .050 ohms from clip to clip that is about the threshold where lowering it does not make much difference on the track. That is my two cents. Dan

NFalls
02-10-2005, 10:49 AM
.. Is this fix applicable to a DD227 (without the blue pots)? Or is there another resistor pack I can use to "slow" the response?

Thanks

DifalcoDesign
02-10-2005, 12:13 PM
Nfalls, I have individual resistors to slow response for the Pro plus controllers. You can get them yourself also. Use 12 or 13 ohm (1/4 watt only!) resistors and replace the resistors just by bending and cutting and plugging them in. Otherwise send me an e-mail.

NFalls
02-11-2005, 10:27 AM
... I just needed an idea of the size required. I'll try it.

Thanks

Bobhardt
02-11-2005, 07:56 PM
Jim,
Thanks for the resistor packs. They made a heck of a difference:)

HRK
02-13-2005, 04:57 PM
One of the best kept secrets we have in the Pacific Northwest is
the SSLC that Lee Gilbert sells, It's not cheap, it's very easy to tune, it
works on every scale class that we run, (Not a wing guy). The
linear control is extra wide with the High/Low switch and I've
found that this feature comes great for you Dad racers too! All
the PNW AMCA racers realize that we have a great trigger if
you want to spend the $$$$$$. I'd love to hear what It's faults
are from the other builders. Heck I hooked up wrong twice just last night and had smoke coming off it and it still pulled through for me without a miss. so it's time for the shameless plug

The Speedshop/Linear Controller is my choice.

Kevin and Cody Kosir

Dan Ruddock
02-13-2005, 05:26 PM
Well first off it is one of my controllers but with a modified wiper contact that uses a wire wound resistor instead of my 9 step individual resistor setup. The very first prototype transistor controller I built 13 years ago used a parma 45 ohm HO resistor with lots of bands just like the SS setup. What I don't like about it is your locked in to the progression rate of the wire wound resistor. My setup it is easy to re curve it to meet the varied driving styles and conditions. In other words mine is much more tuneable. As far as the extra bands you don't need them. How many blades do you need on your razor. Don't let marketing BS fool you. Yes it is good controller because it is based on the controller that changed the way controller are built. There are other problems with it but that's enough for now. Dan