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View Full Version : installing a brake on a parma turbo controller ??



neonnight
02-10-2005, 06:01 PM
i am very new to slot cars and was wondering if there was a simple mod to install a brake on a stock 2.5 ohm controller its a parma turbo #265 . also i have a few controllers i dont know the ohm's of how can i test them with a meter so i know what i have ? thanks for any help

NFalls
02-11-2005, 10:35 AM
If you have access to a VOM (volt ohm meter) and it will read down to .5 ohms accurately, just touch one prob probe to the wide band at the right end of the resistor (where the white wire is connected) and touch the other probe to the first single winding on the other end just to the right of the wide band on the other end, with the meter switched to the Ohms scale. Then you should read the resistance of the entire unit.

Depending on the unit this could vary from 1 to 50 ohms. Most commmerical raceway units will range from one to 5 ohms. Homesets and HO will be higher generally.

The Brake "pot" is simply connected in the red wire between the controller and connnector. Snip the wire and connect the controller to the wiper terminal and connect the connector wire to either of the the resistor terminals ( only one is needed the other remains disconnected).

When connected to the track terminals, max brake is the setting with no resistance , or when the wiper touchs the resistor at the terminal location. Adjusting the knob away fron this point adds resistance which translates to less brake effect and the longer your car will glide. Max resistance essentially is no brakes at all.

Most brake pots for commerical raceway use are 2-3 ohms. Also remember the effects you feel will differ from track to track depending on it's wiring. SO when you travel you will have to try it out and make compensating adjustments.

It's really easy to do! You'll enjoy the results. Good Luck!
;) :cool: :D

neonnight
02-11-2005, 04:27 PM
does any 1 have a diagram of this. seems easy but i dont really understand where to hook the swtich and the wires thanks

Ramcatlarry
02-11-2005, 08:51 PM
DD717 Accubrake. Has a nice bracket that fits the turbo just fine. Comes with the low cost brake pot for under $20. IF you have the need for the better pot, the replacement is the standard pot -12.5 watt.

Available at better slotshops everywhere.

I take Paypal and also mailorder...

NFalls
02-13-2005, 11:50 AM
... The Difaclo unit is a great package because it includes a form of mounting it . Looks cool , works great and is less expensive than a wire wound pot.
;) :D

As far as diagrams go, you really don't need it. There is no switch involved. Once you get the parts you will see the terminals you must connect to and it all should become quite clear. If it isn't then ask at your local track. They should be able to fix you up in no time.

:D :cool: :D

Rotorranch
03-19-2005, 04:59 PM
I use the economy DiFalco brake pot, and mount it in the front of the turbo handle. the resistor mounting bolt will need to be turned around, with the nut at the back of the controller, and the head of the bolt will have to be ground down to clear the resistor.

Disconnect the red wire from the micro contact button. solder a jumper between the red wire and the brake pot. Then run another jumper from the brake pot to the micro contact. Grind a hole in the front ot the handle to mount the brake pot. Mount it up and go. :D

Rotor

raceslot
03-19-2005, 06:14 PM
Got a picture?

FastTrax
03-20-2005, 01:51 AM
Originally posted by Ramcatlarry
DD717 Accubrake. Has a nice bracket that fits the turbo just fine.

Definitely the easiest way to add adj. brakes to your controller.

Rotorranch
03-23-2005, 05:49 PM
A pic of the assembled controller.

Rotorranch
03-23-2005, 05:50 PM
The other side.

raceslot
03-23-2005, 05:53 PM
Thanks so much, I just ordered one.

Rotorranch
03-23-2005, 05:58 PM
With the handle off. Note where the red brake wire was removed from the brake micro contact, and the jumper soldered and heat shrinked. If I was doing this on a new controller kit, I would run the brake wire directly to the brake adjust pot, eliminating the splice. Also note the head of the resistor mount bold ground down to allow the brake pot to be installed in the front of the handle, with the nut on the back of the frame.

Rotorranch
03-23-2005, 06:15 PM
The other side of the controller, showing the jumper wire from the brake pot to the micro contact. Solder the jumpers to the center lug, and either of the side lugs on the brake pot. Attach this jumper to the brake micro contact. I used the stock ring terminal from a turbo to hook the brake jumper to the contact, using the original micro contact hardware. Ypu cpuld also solder direct to the micro contact, but if doing so, make sure you remove the plastic insulator before soldering. They melt easily.

I normally would use 14 or 16 gauge wire for the brake wire, but this customer wanted the heavier wire in there, so I used 13 awg for the jumper from the red brake wire to the brake pot, and double 16 awg jumper from the brake pot to the micro contact.

Also note that the stock black and white wires were replaced with heavier 10 awg wire. The "black" wire was soldered directly to the wiper, eliminating the stock ring terminal on the trigger. when doing this, make sure you cut the stock screw off flush with the nut, so it won't hang on the wire.

Rotorranch
03-23-2005, 06:52 PM
There are three contacts on the economy brake pots. Attach your wires to the center, and then to either side contact. DONT REMOVE THE UNUSED CONTACT!!!! When you hook up backwards, you will blow the pot. BUT...you can now hook to the unused contact, and the pot will work again...untill you hook up wrong again, then it's junk! :-D

Rotor

raceslot
03-23-2005, 07:06 PM
Thanks again, I`m sure this will help alot of people out that are new to sport as myself.