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DHERB2005
05-28-2005, 12:56 AM
I've been bitten by the same bug that I had as a teenager in the 70's and am getting back into slot car racing again.

Wow, things have changed! Some have not...

Could anyone let me know where to purchase a chassis jig (aluminum preferably) and what you call the block of 3/4" plywood with the formica and slot in the front (formal name)? I'm sorry for my ignorance, but will try and re-learn frame building.

There was a gentleman (TSRF) who had posted one of the sharpest looking cars I've ever seen (Ferrari?). Will try and post the html link: It's an orange colored car that is striking.

http://www.oldweirdherald.com/slotcartalk/showthread.php?threadid=11821&highlight=Cheetah
The car sits on a base of wood? or some other material, hense the question about what this is called...

Anyway, if anyone could respond with the jig and other question, it would be great.

Thanks for such a great Forum!
Best,

Dave
Riverside, CA

Bill from NH
05-28-2005, 07:06 AM
Dave, welcome back! The 3/4" plywood with formica on top & a groove down the middle is commonly known as a tech or setup block. If you have a commercial raceways in your area, drop by & see what they have for chassis jigs. I don't know about aluminium, but Carlisle, Lucky Bobs, & JK make jigs of corian. :)

Foamy
05-28-2005, 08:42 AM
Buena Park Raceway has building jigs and building supplies you might be looking for.
http://www.bparkraceway.com has all the contact info.

From Riverside take the 91 west to Knott Ave., go left to Lincoln, go right not quite a couple miles. Ont the right, if you hit Valley View you went too far...

DHERB2005
05-28-2005, 11:07 AM
Thanks for the responses.

Do you have any links for Carlisle, Lucky Bob's, and JK for the jigs? I'm starting from the beginning again, so any help would be appreciated. Also, I've checked EBAY for the setup block/ tech block and didn't get any results.

Buena Park is only 45 minutes away, so my 11 year old son and I will have to stop by and check their track sometime soon.

Have a great Memorial Day weekend!

Best,

Dave
Riverside, CA

Bill from NH
05-28-2005, 12:12 PM
Dave, your best bet is take a look at the jigs when you go to BP. Carlisle has no web sight but most distributors carry his stuff, Lucky Bob's site has no photos & they don't sell direct.Their site is here: http://www.gofastest.com/luckybob/Products.htm There is a Lucky Bob's jig in this OWH photo: http://www.oldweirdherald.com/slotcartalk/attachment.php?s=&postid=110938

The JK online store is at (jig is listed under closeouts): http://www.jkproducts.com/forms/shopping/


Dave, I was wrong, the Lucky Bob's website does have some photos & you can order from them either online or at the phone number on the site.:)

pablo
05-29-2005, 08:50 AM
Yes, what Bill said.
Also, if your local raceway does not have what you need, try this:
lucky-bobs-slot-cars.com
also
ncphobbies.com - go to 1/24 then click on slot car tools, click on chassis jigs and setup blocks. I own a Lucky Bobs 1020 jig, works with both 1/8 and 3/32 axles.
Champion set up block is the tech block I use.

Also, If you want a jig to blueprint (straighten) a frame after a hard race, I recommend e-mailing 83pitts1t and inquire about a Magna Jiggy, it's wood with magnets, comes with a surprize in the package too!

DHERB2005
05-30-2005, 02:00 PM
Thanks for the responses! Have bookmarked the links and will be ordering from the companies.

My son and I will have to stop by the track in Buena Park and check out their racing events and purchase some parts as well. Will be interesting to find out if they have "vintage" 1/24 scale races?

Best,
Dave
Riverside, CA

Whitey
05-31-2005, 06:08 AM
And if you're in the market for a nice slot car box, email me and I can send you a flyer....

whiteysslotcarboxes@jps.net

Thank you and welcome back......

Foamy
05-31-2005, 09:49 PM
This website:
http://www.vintageslots.freewebpages.org/
has the rules for the "vintage" racing at Buena Park.
Forewarned, it is popup hell and not updated frequently. To not put you thru that...here goes...
Vintage Hardbody Rules


Vintage Hardbody Slotcar Rules:Stock Car

Body:

Body must be a 1/24 or 1/25 scale pre 1973 American stock car from a model kit manufactured by Revell, AMT, Monogram or JoHan. No lexan, soft-shell, or resin bodies allowed. All parts must be from the model kit - no reproduction lexan or resin parts are allowed except for the driver and interior, and the rear window may be replaced with clear lexan or similar material. Body may not be altered in any fashion except as noted here: pin holes for mounting to the chassis, headlight and taillight lenses may be left out, and door handles and windshield wipers may be trimmed away. Wheel wells may not be altered in any way. "Slammed" bodies are not allowed. Body may be lightened from the inside only. Body parts that fall off during the race must be re-attached before starting the next heat. If the body part that fell off is lost, then the area that the part came from must be covered with tape before starting the next heat. Cars must have the front and rear bumper, front grill, front windshield and rear window. Body should be painted and detailed to reflect a vintage looking racecar. It should have three numbers and a painted interior.

Motor:

36D, 26D and Pittman can motor can be used in an inline chassis. Ball bearings are allowed, arms may be balanced, heat sinks and cooling holes may be used on the end bell. Cobalt or other exotic magnets are not allowed. Standard replacement arms that were produced for these motors during the era in which they were manufactured are allowed. No group 12, 15, 20 or open arms.

Pittman (except the can motor), RAM, KTM and Kemtron motors are allowed in a sidewinder chassis. Ball bearings are allowed. Arms may be balanced. Arms may be replaced with similar arms from the era in which the motor was manufactured. Cobalt and other exotic magnets are not allowed. Motors may be lightened and opened for cooling.

Chassis:

Any scratch built or production chassis that will fit under the model body (as described above) without stretching or distorting the body. Guide must fit inside the body and not be visible when viewed from above the car. The chassis should be no wider than 2 7/8" and should be covered entirely by the body. No part of the chassis may be visible from either the top or side (except through the wheel wells). Ground clearance at the start of the race should be 0.040".

Tires:

Tires must have black sidewalls and must be "scale" in appearance (as much as is possible with slot car tires). Front tire minimum diameter is 7/8". "O" rings are allowed in the front only if they meet the "scale" appearance criteria (1/8" or larger is acceptable). Front wheels should be at least 3/16 thick. The tires must not be visible when viewing the car from above. Front tires need not touch the track, but should touch the track before the chassis or body if the car is tilted. Rear tires minimum diameter is 1". Maximum tire track from sidewall to sidewall (both front and rear) is 2 15/16".

Vintage Formula 1/Indy Slotcar Rules:

Body: Vintage Indy style lexan, must be painted with appropriate racing numbers and must have a detailed driver. Body does not have to be detailed represent an actual race car.

Motor: Unbalanced 16d, Falcon, Cheetah or similar.

Chassis: Inline no wider than 1 3/8", scratch built or manufactured OK.

Front tires: Black .750 min. dia. X .250 min. width; no "O" rings.

Rear tires: Black .820 min. dia. X . 500 min. width.

Tires front and rear may not track wider that 3.25" sidewall to sidewall.

The race format should be initially run like the Hardbody class with the A's unlimited and the B's restricted by the breakout time.


NASCAR and Indy/F1 is now on the second Sunday of the month except June. It seems the SoCal USRA is holding The Western States Championship that weekend.

DHERB2005
05-31-2005, 11:11 PM
Foamy,
Thanks for the inside information on the vintage racing rules at Buena Park's raceway! I'll copy and paste it to Word, then read it carefully.

I picked up a vintage Cox Ferrari F1 158 on EBAY about one week ago. It's missing a few chrome goodies (mirrors and one tailpipe), but is in decent shape. I also bought a sealed Cox Ferrari 158, but it will remain sealed until I get ready to retire, then it's off to EBAY...

Am looking forward to running some of the vintage cars at Buena Park in the near future. Am also bookmarking a number of sites which show how to build chassis' and rolling cars. Have a lot to learn, but will be great fun once I buy a soldering iron / gun and some brass...

I don't know anything about the latest cars that Carrera and others manufacture (magnets...etc), as I am stuck in the vintage era when I left it back in 1978 for racing full-size cars at the dragway.

Anyway, thanks for your response and look forward to reading more on this excellent Forum.

Best,
Dave
Riverside, CA

DHERB2005
06-01-2005, 04:47 PM
Foamy,
Thanks again for the update on Vintage Car Rules. I checked out the link, and was very informative. Also had a popup that I couldn't get rid of -

There was a chassis listed on the site as "Foamy". Is this one of your designs? I apologize if I sound ignorant, but it appeared to be scratch-built and very nice by the way.

Also, I had to check out some "action" shots. Very cool, and reminds me of the mid/late 70's when this was all the rage. Am glad it has resurged again. Here's a link:
http://www.vintageslots.freewebpages.org/images/drivers2004.jpg

Best,
Dave
Riverside, CA

JBriggsK9
06-01-2005, 07:40 PM
Hi Dave

I have a jig for sale.. much like the old Russkit ajust-o-jig.. I do mostly 1/32cars but it will work for 1/24th too...

http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/id33.html

hope this helps...

Chris

DHERB2005
06-02-2005, 12:25 AM
Chris,
Thanks for your link to the chassis jig! I don't have a source for the aluminum pan(s) required to support the chassis, but will do some more searching.

Also contacted Butch regarding his "Jiggy" - the aluminum version. I didn't know the story behind this, and found his old web site, and was nearly ready to drop $99 for this. He wrote back and explained that he has a wood version currently, but is expecting to have an aluminum Jiggy sometime this Fall.

Appreciate the help with this!

Best,
Dave
Riverside, CA

DHERB2005
06-02-2005, 06:07 PM
Foamy,
Thanks for the earlier link to Buena Park's raceway. I stopped by this afternoon and got a refresher course on vintage and current racing by Chris, the owner. Really nice, and patient guy.

He's got everything any racer could ever want - jigs, soldering irons, tires, etc. Guess they have a major race coming up one week from tomorrow, Friday. Will have to take my son over there for the Sunday races.

Ended up buying about $50 worth of parts and a test block from Chris.

Thanks for the info Foamy!

Best,
Dave
Riverside, CA

TSRF
06-03-2005, 04:35 PM
Dave, Chris is the BEST there is.
We will run races most Saturday afternoon there for this class (http://www.tsrfcars.com/TMENU.htm) and will alternate modern and vintage bodies. If you show up, please ask to test a car and I will be pleased to oblige, and your son my try it too, so you can see if this is something for you or not.

Dokk P

DHERB2005
06-03-2005, 06:54 PM
Dokk,
Thanks for the message! Chris is a great guy, and was so patient with me in explaining the "new" cars and vintage rules. What an excellent raceway!

Chris mentioned that the track everyone will be racing on, had a guy who lapped the thing at 1.8 seconds! Wow, things have really changed since the mid/late 70's, as that would not have been remotely possible, considering all of the corners and length of track...

Have a great weekend, and hopefully will get a chance to see some experts racing at the raceway in a week or so.

Best,
Dave
Riverside, CA