View Full Version : Tomy Track Question

02-13-2006, 10:16 AM
I'm almost done glueing the sections and pre honing the rails and undecided on whether I should put green indoor/outdoor carpet down and attach the track with #4 screws or prime and paint the table and attach with rtv silicone. My goal is a flat smooth track that's relatively quiet. Any pro/cons, or comments would be appreciated. Thanks

02-13-2006, 05:38 PM
A couple of thoughts on that.

Carpet -Pros. Quiet. looks good, easier on cars that deslot.
Cons. hard to get track "perfectly" level as track will tend to settle in. holds dust, more likly to introduce "fuzz" to your cars

Painted wood. Pros. perfectly flat for track attachment, can look good. easy maintenace, just wipe off with a damp cloth, cars stay cleaner longer. Cons. Not as quiet as carpet particularly with a plastic track. can be hard on the cars.

There are other options out there that I have heard of but never tried. Sound board for one. Kind of a middle choice between wood and carpet. Smooth flat for good attachment and track leveling. Quieter for plastic track than reqular wood. As I said I've never tried it nor do I know anything about cost/avalability/ease of working with it, etc.

As for me, I've always used wood. Once you get 4 cars running all the sounds become part of the experience.

Later, The you have a nice track there reminds me of a Bucktrack scorpian routed track but reversed Rockinator:)

02-13-2006, 06:00 PM
Thanks for the input Rockinator. I think I'll stick with the painted surface. What do you think about mounting the track? I'm leaning toward silicone. Thanks, Hitecca

02-13-2006, 07:35 PM
I like silicone. It can also deaden the sound some. Make sure you get something that can be peeled off in the future in case you ever want to change/repair a section of the track. Of course if you have already glued the track pieces together that may be a moot point. But suppose your track board gets damaged you would want to be able to pull the track up with out damaging the track. Of course the advantage to screws is they can be removed unless you cover over the tops with filler. Uh, I screwed mine down and let the tops stay exposed. I was just carefull to make sure the tops were counter sunk into the surface and then I made them as flush as I could.

Later, The glad I got a routed layout so I don't have the "Plastic problems" Rockinator

02-13-2006, 08:02 PM
Rockinator, I hear ya bout the routed track! I'm already thinking that I'm gonna want to sell this when I'm done and order a routed track from Bowman. He said he can somewhat duplicate my layout and make it swoopier. I really like the design I came up with. It's VERY fast. And... being an ex 1/24 open racer, that's what I was looking for. Another cool feature it has is the outer legs fold in so you can hinge it against the wall. Hitecca

Red Car Driver
02-17-2006, 08:04 AM
Hi Hitecca,
This trach looks great, much better than the extended truckaway that Im about to build. A few questions: is this 4 lane, what is the table size and can you give a breakdown of the track pieces of a drawing of the layout??? I'd love to build one of these

02-17-2006, 11:32 AM
Red Car Driver: PM me with your email address and I'll forward it to you. Thanks, hitecca:D

02-19-2006, 07:28 AM
One problem with RTV ids that it is flexible and allows the track to move. A track, when hit with direct sunight can begin to raise due to the plastic heating up an expanding thus will bow more easily because the RTV will allow it to do so.

The best time proven method for mounting is to use flatheaded wood screws and countersink them so that the head is flush or slightly below the level of the track without causing a dimple in the track. I know of some who have built up the area on the bottom side to strengthen up the screw mounting area to help prevent any dimpling and help provide a stronger mount.

I have heard of a few plastic tracks where the builders filled the backside of each piece with fiberglass resin to help take away the hollowness of the plastic sections. I have never tried it nor raced on a track that was done so but in theory it sounds good. Since the resin is for the most part selfleveling, one wouldn't need to do anyfinishing to level the bottoms as long as they were done on a level surface.

02-19-2006, 08:31 AM
Another way is to use small finishing nails.
Pound them in,then carefully touch the tip of a soldering iron to the head of the nail for a few seconds and the track should pop up slightly,leaving the nail head flush with the track,if you try this technic,practice on a couple old pieces of track first.
I've also seen a few Tomy tracks ,that've used small finishing nails right in the bottom of the guide-pin slot.
Has anybody tried insulating the bottom of their race track using common household insulation,i've been kicking around the idea of stuffing the good old pink batting insulation under my next track project,and i was wondering if anybody had tried such a idea.
Anybody got any Pro's and Cons on the idea

03-29-2006, 01:50 AM
This may have been mentioned before, but what about polystyrene? you can buy it in 6mm thickness too so you can build the track surrounds to the level of the racing surface!

Raul G
03-30-2006, 06:29 PM
I have two 4'x8' 5/8" plywood tables for my 4 lane Tomy track layout. I used outdoor carpetting (Home Depot), the same stuff I used on my jon boat. Works just fine. I have not yet settled on a permanent layout so I did not use the wood screw method but will. I agree that countersinking (be careful!) is the way to go. It is a fairly quiet raceway, using it at my middle school car racing club. I am thinking of adding a third table to produce an L layout or three in line- wow! a 24' straightaway!! Good racing!

03-31-2006, 07:22 AM
Dremel make a 1/8" dia. ball shaped high-speed cutter. I chuck it into a pin vise, it works perfect as a countersink for using the small (1/2") LifeLike train track nails in the factory holes. Just spin it between the fingertips a few times, letting the weight of the tool make the countersink. The black nails will then sit flush, in fact almost invisible.

Dangerous Dave
04-02-2006, 06:02 AM
I wouldnt use the insulation batts

good potential for getting fibreglass in your lungs.. and eyes etc

syrofoam is ok, it can get a little shredded by wayward giude pins.

Medium density closed cell sponge foam is a good alternative, cheap and very easy to work with, comes in large sheets, cuts with scissors and available in 1/4" :D