A couple questions; trimming wheel towers and, arm. markings

[Hurricane145]

Per PNW IMCA rules, on the Champion Turbo Flex chassis how far down do you ususally trim the wheel towers or axle uprights? I am guessing just to the point of the bottom of the axle hole in the upright. Does it need any reinforcement after trimming?

Also, I have an arm with a tag marked CTR. Is that for Contender? I suspect it is but am not familiar with some markings so want to be sure. It shows no evidence of being balanced if that helps.

[JayGee]

Both of my Contender arms are tagged CTR. However, they are also available balanced - as mine are.

[wayne h]

hurricane,

the towers are trimmed below the axle holes. no extra reinforcing is needed at that point. some racers do reinforce the chassis at the guide tongue and rear struts (uprights).

your arm is an unblalanced contender. it will not be competitive at slugfest. you should have one of the proslot-based "millenium" arms as marketed by bow, etc. timing should be 38 degrees for our power. use smq magnets. champion light (red ) springs. gold-dust or bigfoot brushes. gearing should be 8/37 or 38 with about .680 tires (depending on how you've set-up the back axle).

wayne h.

[oldracer2]

Wayne - don't you mean 8/38 or 37 not 6/38 for Grp 10? For tire size as Wayne says it really depends on where you jig the oilites. Another way to check is you will need at least .020 - .025 clearance under the rear of the chassis to finish with enough tire. If you jig for a 38 gear you should be good with .680 - .685 tires. Some guys need more though if you drive like a madman!


thanks harvey. (wnh)

[Hurricane145]

What pitch gears do you usually run in this case?

[oldracer2]

Hurricane - Only 64 pitch. We notch the motor can and magnets a lot so it fits over the axle. This allows for less angle between the axle and motor and better mesh. Use bevelled pinion too.