Newbie has a couple of questions for the pro's

[xtreme5461]

I have been racing for about 6 mos. and have a few questions regarding motors, break-in, and controllers. I run 4" nascars under TSRA rules which mandates sealed Deathstar motors. If I buy more than one handout motor, how do I test the motors to know which is a better "runner" besides installing each and running them? I have looked through the forums for breaking in motors and come up with a bajillion different ways. What is the proper way to do this? Also, is there an alternative for a power supply than the mega-expensive names? (Koford, etc.)? I am currently running a Parma 2.5 ohm controller and am looking to expand to something user adjustable. I saw on the Parma website that they have a new electronic controller with adjustable sensitivity and adjustable brakes. Do you have any feedback on this controller? are there any other controllers similar with similar properties? Is Difalco the way to go? Any help with these questions would be absolutely great! It would probably help to let you know that I would like to run group 12 boxstock and GTP classes (s16d)

[Monty @ B.O.W.]

Extreme,

You've probably heard the answers I'm going to give you, but I can vouch for the facts and many other peoples experience, and hopefully they can vouch for me.... anotherwords, its my opinion, but works for me!

To make an off track assessment of handout or sealed motors, you need a power supply with an ammeter. The one that pulls the most amps, after breakin, is probably the fastest. Track testing is still reccommended to catch the exceptions to the rule. As you have been told on another board, don't flinch too much at the cost of a power supply, you'll only spend the money once and you can do a lot with the supply besides break in motors. If you are adept at spotting electronic features, yes you can find a surplus supply. However, its not just the output minimums that you need. You need variable voltage, and both a voltmeter and ammeter. Several large electronic mail order houses list such supplies as stereo test supplies. I've used a Zurich brand 15 amp supply (cost $80 - 100, depending on source), but have found the voltage control pot to not be as sensitive as the ones on purpose built slot car supplies.

I personally use the water submersion method of break in, as it only takes a few minutes and the motor CANNOT overheat. The catch is that you MUST have a decent source of compressed air to properly dry the motor. Running at 3 volts with the occasional squirt of naptha, say every minute for 6 - 10 minutes also works. IF THE MOTOR IS ALREADY SPINNING, the naptha will not ignite. To avoid flames, do not apply the naptha at any other time!

As for controllers, yes, you will be very pleased with a variable sensitivity type, and you need it to run differing classes. I have not seen the new Parma, but I know they used it at their Challenge Cup racing with no problems. It probably is NOT reccommended for all racing classes, i.e., not for high current motors. You mention DiFalco, an excellent brand. I personally use a Ruddock, also excellent. The problem is that if the price of the power supply is an issue, the price of the high end controller will be too. My opinion stays the same: its a one time expense, and well worth it.

[slot-a-holic]

Originally posted by Monty @ B.O.W.
Extreme,


To make an off track assessment of handout or sealed motors, you need a power supply with an ammeter. The one that pulls the most amps, after breakin, is probably the fastest. Track testing is still reccommended to catch the exceptions to the rule.

Hi Monty!

When you get handout sealed motors, sometimes the one that pulls more amps can be the one with a bad bushing or bearing alignment, and stuff like that. Is this correct? I mean, a bad bushing alignment, or something wrong with the motor can make it pull more amps, is it right?

Thanks for you patience! hehe ;)