View Full Version : Slot Works - Trinity

03-12-2009, 06:54 AM
One of my customers came in the shop yesterday with a Slot Works controller. When I opened it up I found that a fuse had burnt - copper foil. I fixed that & the controller is still not working properly - Da, something burnt the fuse to begin with although it didn't burn when I hooked it up. The controller has "Trinity Pat. Pending" on the board. Do I send this to Trinity, Slot Works or someplace else to be repaired? Just so you know - When I hook the controller up, I've got full power to the lane. The fuse I replaced is the same thickness that was installed from the manufacture - there are 3 pieces of .0015/.002 copper foil attached at each end with space between them & the 3rd, piece in the middle with .024 wire making the bridge. I have no way of testing the diode or whatever it is (purple can - numbers are 1000m16v) that is soldered to white & red leads at the bottom of the card before it comes out of the handle. There is also a black can (diode? - numbers are MI 6A05) above this area that I've been talking about attached to the Black & Red leads. I would like to get this repaired today. This customer walked in a couple of days ago to check it out & talk, then came back yesterday & setup shop - even left his box here! Which is great!!!! I rebuilt a G12 for him & he needs his controller to run. I'll give it my best today to get this repaired. I'd appreciate your help.

03-13-2009, 10:06 AM
The Trinity/Slotwork controlers were of two designs:

1) DIODE board - is Andy Smith's original design and follows all repairabilty that is known to be. The foil wiper board was two weak for S-16D and higher amp draw motors, but still works well on homeset cars and tracks. I still use one as a back-up on my club track.

2) TRANSISTOR board - follow the schematic of all of the modern controllers such as DiFalco, Ruddick, etc. You will find the transistor is blown along with the modulating resistor. These need to be more heavy duty, I imagine.

At least replace the fusible link with a proper FUSE small enough to blow before the component.