View Full Version : Making and Attaching Sidewalls on Track

03-08-2010, 02:19 PM
Wow - what a job! If there has been one part of this project that I have glaringly underestimated, it has been making and attaching sidewalls on The Serpent's Tooth. I waited until this task is almost finished to whine about it, and now - with only the bridge turn left - a description of the process for those who have "been there done that" to critique:

Straights: The most deceiving, needy parts of the job. Prior to starting the sides, I went around the track with a straight edge and a level THREE TIMES to ensure the surface was flat with no humps and no sagging. Close, but no cigar. Along the length of each of the straight wall sections, I scribed a line two inches from the top of the wall. I then spring-clamped a scrap block flush wht the line at each end of the wall. I then placed the wall against the side of the track expecting to drill, countersink, and screw the wall into the "stiffs" previously installed. But NOOO! While the scribed line and the track converged at the ends of the wall, toward the center of many of the sections (longer ones especially) the track surface sagged below thew scribed line by as much as 1/4 inch. So, out (again) came the Third Hand Little Hands and the edges of the straights where they sagged were raised to meet the scribe line. The legs where then loosened, adjusted, and retightened where needed to support the new edge elevation. UGH!

Turns and Elevation Changes: Using the same 2" from the top scribe, I started from the straight sections into the turns. The angles on the ends of the wall pieces for the curves invariably needed to be cut at an angle other than 90 degrees to create a tight (gap-free) joint between one wall section and the next. This required that I loosen the ends of the straight walls, slide the end of the turn wall behind the straight wall, gently tighten the straight wall to "clamp" the turn wall in place, attach the turn wall to the "blocks" previously installed while staying true to the scribe line,, marking the cuts, detaching the turn wall, making the cuts, and then reattaching the turn walls to the "blocks." Each turn had to be done this way TWICE, since the turns were being laminated out of 2 @ 1/4" to match the 1/2" straight walls. Double UGH!

Tight Turns: Thank GOD for creating the Meranti tree from which man developed bendable plywood. Even better news on this count - the very rough surface on bendable ply is easily sanded to a fairly smooth state so after being painted it will probably look alot like the MDF. There were also a few inside walls that needed to be reduced from 2" to 1" to maintain a good line of sight from the drivers' stations. After following the procedure for the turns shown above, making the transition from high to low through a turn only needed a mark at the 1" end of the bendable ply, a straight edge, and some clamps. The straight edge was placed one end at the 1" mark and the other end at the 2" end of the ply and a circular say was used to cut along the resulting line. The result is a gradual change in wall height through a turn that is barely noticable to the eye. Thank you to Tom Higgins (my brother!) for this suggestion. It works well.

In the end, walls that I thought would take half a day have taken the equivalent of six days - six and one-half after the bridge turn is complete. Sooo ... all you guys who have done this so many times before - is this pretty much the process you follow for this? If not, and if it is something exceedingly simple as putting the walls on before assembling the track or creating elevations, well, someone come and take the sharp objects out of my reach.

And then there is Hillbilly, who writes about a couple jigs he has created to cut walls down to uniform height - essentially eliminating the need to scribe a reference line in the sides ...

Critique away, my friends!


03-08-2010, 03:28 PM

Yes, you worked too hard. First thing to note is that straights are not necessarily dead flat, and sometimes - as when transitioning into or out of even the mildest of banking - they shouldn't be. Hillbilly seems to have done it the way everyone since Hasse does it - including Ogilvie, Dadds, Tunkel, Gary, and me, oh yes, and Mike - slap the walls on an extra inch or two high, then cut them down. This is accomplished by mounting that high speed circular saw to an MDF angle plate that suspends the blade 2" above the track surface, and walking it around. Then, adding a top lip to the same fixture, such that the blade is 6" or so from the lip, walk a second lap to cut the lower edge. In very tight inside turns, these cuts may need to be done with a pencil line and jigsaw.

Sidewalls are STILL the slowest portion of the build, easily half the total time. Most of this is laminating up to 1/2" in corners, harder than it sounds for real banking. The next slowest task is building all the T&G joints. You have one more fairly time consuming job, the braiding. Get it FLAT the first time, and all will be well.


03-08-2010, 06:44 PM
Hi Monty - I get the transitions - that makes perfect sense. The somewhat frustrating and puzzling part has been sections of straight (often in elevation changes) where the track sagged as much as 1/4" either at the center of the length of section or at some other point between the two ends. I've attached a drawing (exaggerated) to illustrate. The Little Hands were used to raise the sagging area (in relation to the scribe line) before inserting the screws through the sides and into the stiffs. The legs were adjusted to touch the floor before the Little Hands were finally removed.

Swiss has a router version of the jig you mention - he's going to share that with me so I can make one of my own.

Monty - do you have a photo or drawing of your striper "jig" - the piece of bent rod that you use for guiding the striper via the existing slot - that you'd be willing to share?



03-09-2010, 11:32 AM

I think you got those sagging areas between bulkheads as a result of the track being a weekend project. On most of my tracks, I built up the sidewalls as soon as the sections were strung together, and cut the slots using the sidewall as a guide instead of the edge of the surface. Thats only problematical when you have a tight banked corner, and even then I muddled through. The only picture you're going to find of one of my tracks here on OWH is the Kal's Korkscrew, but thats a good study of tightly molded sidewalls. Except for the pine bulkheads and T&G jointwork, the track is entirely MDF, including legs. That, and a lot of bondo in the kerfwood. That was nine years ago, before the back degeneration.

If I can find the old striper, you're welcome to it, bracket and all. I did just get a camera, but have yet to load the software and learn to use it. On the Embee, the guidewire is approx. 3/32 steel wire, and must be sanded liberally to solder to it. I wrapped it in a bit of 1/8" brass tubing, and extended the tubing to about one inch long. Gentle sanding will get you an almost firm fit in the slot. You'll also discover why I usually DIDN'T paint inside the slot. Luckily, OneShot can be wiped away with naptha on a rag WHEN IT'S FRESH. If you make a boo-boo, fix it immediately. The most likely cause of the boo-boo is getting the guide stuck on junk in the slot, like paint drips! I also laid the braid before striping. With a little patience, you can get most of a paint drip off the braid, but if you slip with the burnishing block while firmly attaching the braid, the scuff on the fresh stripe will bother you.

You still haven't told us if you will use the VHB tape or the glue. If you use the glue, I have a teflon spreader block that lays glue on both sides of the slot at once. You're welcome to use it, but I need to get it back from Central Florida where Ken Holton and Jeff Cox are braiding their tracks. They've had it for six weeks... I'll need to check progress there!

03-09-2010, 01:00 PM
For the stripes, you can get one of these...


03-09-2010, 01:22 PM

That IS the device I've been calling an Embee. Jim, now you know what it looks like!

03-09-2010, 02:13 PM
whats the common practice for filling the seam between the edge of the track and the side wall? small bead of caulking? Bondo? Nothing? Hillbilly

03-09-2010, 02:47 PM

Somewhere in one of my toolboxes I have one of these stripers that I have never used. It was given to me by my ex-wife's grandfather just before he passed away and is probably from the '30s. He apparently used it for applying pin stripes to woodwork that he did. I kept it because it was such a neat little tool. I've always been too afraid to use it on a car!

03-09-2010, 06:26 PM
Hi Monty:

Thanks for the tip on the sagging. All of the sidewalls are now attached, and there is no sagging anywhere. Elevation changes and transitions into turns are pretty smooth, I think.

Thanks also for the offer of the striper - I got one of these for a really good price on ebay: http://www.eastwood.com/beugler-pro-pinstriping-kit.html It has more heads than I'll ever use, but the price was less than the going price for the unit that comes with just two heads - and you never know - somebody might need to borrow it someday. If you do come up with your guide arm, and when you get around to using your new camera, a pic would be much appreciated!

Paint in the slots: I have one or two partners in crime - one will be enlisted to follow behind with a small brush and run it through the slots as we proceed around the track. That should pretty much ensure that there will be no slot blobs to interfere with the striper guide. Slot blobs - hey! is that a real term? If not, I call dibs!

VHB or Cement: I'm spooked on the VHB. No test showed both the braid sticking to the VHB AND the VHB sticking to the epoxy, with or without Naphtha in the mix. Maybe I was pulling too hard - maybe not. I'm going with cement. Swiss gave me the name of the product he uses on his tracks - I know that works very well: Scotch Grip Contact Adhesive #10. When you get your spreader back, I'd very much like to borrow it!


03-09-2010, 06:28 PM

Unless I hear otherwise from the heavyweights, I'm going with Wunderfil from Rockler.

03-09-2010, 06:30 PM
Thanks, Gary - I already got the striper. Just wondering about the guide arm - hoping Monty is able to post a pic.


03-10-2010, 01:00 PM
The Master striper is a good one. I used my fathers striper for years and got one from JC Whitney many years ago. Blick seems to be the last source for these now and I ordered a new one since my old ones vanished in the past few years.

A trick from Jim Silknatter is to replace the GLASS bottle with a plastic one. You recycle your 'stick-it' bottles and this allows you to pessure feed the paint instead of waiting for the air bubble to flow, which causes drips in the stiping action. I also use an old flag with a dremel-cut groove in place of the post to guide the striper. Goes many more feet per minute faster than dragging the wire in the slot.

Paint for stripping can be a question and many things work. One Shot sign painters colors have worked in all applications for me and been the thinnest bump free line.

03-14-2010, 07:16 PM
OK! The side walls are up and cut to proper height. We've incorporated some gradual lowering of wall height in places leading to areas where wall height needs to be quite low in order to not interfere with line of sight. Here are the first five images:

Pic 1: A hint at the challenges created by making turn radii a little tighter to save footprint space - the walls on the sections going into and out of turn overlap themselves. PITA! Lesson learned.
Pic 2: Tom suggested that wall transitions into areas that call for a low wall for line of sight be as gradual as possible so as not to be noticeable. Can you tell which section in this pic transitions from 2" down to 1"? Great suggestion, Tom!
Pic 3-4: Shorter sections with wall height transitions. Still tough to sense the change. I like this technique.
Pic 5: Another look at that challenge caused by trying to steal footprint space from turn radii. I don't have an answer yet - but scarf joints (ugh!) might be part of the solution. Any thoughts?

03-14-2010, 07:44 PM
Next five:

Pics 1, 2, and 4: More views of radii cheating problem.
Pic 3: Minimum turn radius to get the walls in there without problems.
Pic 5: Bottom wall transition from bridge to exit straight. Used a flexible curve (purchased years ago with no thought that I'd ever use it - it was just a cool tool and cheap) to make an elongated "S" profile. Fancy.

03-14-2010, 07:51 PM

Can you please post a pjhotograph of the stripper/guide flag combo that you use? I'm very interested to see how you do it :)

The wire thing is a real PITA.

old n slow
03-14-2010, 07:54 PM
That is most excellent work! I am proud to know such a craftsman as you. :)

03-14-2010, 08:07 PM
Last five:

Pic 1: Nothing special - just a visual of the three different materials used for walls (1/2" MDF in straights, 1/4" MDF laminated x 2 in broad turns, and 3/8" bending ply in tight turns. The bending ply actually sands down nicely from its rough initial state, and there is actually about 1/4" left after you do that. To eliminate areas in the wall that are thinner than the others (by the bending ply) I'm going to go ahead and drum sand to exactly 1/4" and laminate the bending ply too.

Pic 2: The bridge - supported temporarily by a 2x2 because it sags a little without it. I'm thinking of putting a piece of angle iron under the track surface, attached to the underside and supported by the two legs that straddle the underpass. Any thoughts?

Pics 3-5: The side wall trimming jig I made and used before I saw Hillbilly's excellent jig. Worked fine, made me grateful for shop vacs!

03-14-2010, 08:30 PM
White and green lanes are going to be pigs to drive, especially under the bridge :D :D

Will you be adding any plastic/perspex safety walls at the fast corners?

03-14-2010, 08:31 PM

Can you please post a pjhotograph of the stripper/guide flag combo that you use? I'm very interested to see how you do it :)

The wire thing is a real PITA.

Yeah! I want to see that too!

old n slow
03-14-2010, 08:34 PM
I think........... you ride a pig

03-14-2010, 08:37 PM
That is most excellent work! I am proud to know such a craftsman as you. :)

Aww Shucks! I bet you say that to all the pretty girls! ;-)

03-14-2010, 08:43 PM
I still am underskilled at posting pictures. RECYCLE a guide flag. Cut the post off flush to top. With the dremel cut-off tool, cut a groove in the top of flag in the same direction as the blade wide enough to fit the wire guide from the stiping tool.

Use the flag to smooth out the bumps and joints in the track that the wire normally finds and makes the paint line wobbly. CLEAR enough? Match the lane stickers to colors from the 'One-Shot" color guide.

Maybe I can help stripe Jim's track when the time comes....I live fairly close.
Do you have the braid and router bit for the shelf yet?

I have used 'Spackle' for small cracks. Covers screws you may NEED to find later also.
Bondo is for BIG ones.

03-14-2010, 08:45 PM
Hey Zippity - we did wall height transitions down to 1" for line of sight - is that what you're referring to? Or are you talking about outside walls in places where the 2" wall might not contain a car that has "flown" off the track?

Also - I am a newbie to road courses (Still haven't even come close to mastering Swiss's excellent flat track.) I gather from the smiley's that you think white and green will be fun challenges? Or have I inadvertently created problems? Educate me, please!


03-14-2010, 08:54 PM

My "tongue-in-cheek" comment was directed at the obstacle that is standing on the lanes under the bridge in the above photo - I assume that it was a temporary support?

On my Club track (follow the link in my signature panel) we have added 6" high perspex walls to protect our marshals from low flying missiles :)

03-14-2010, 09:01 PM

My "tongue-in-cheek" comment was directed at the obstacle that is standing on the lanes under the bridge in the above photo - I assume that it was a temporary support? OH! Yes, it is a temporary support until I get a piece of angle iron onder there to eliminate the little bit of sag at the farthest, least supported spot.

On my Club track (follow the link in my signature panel) we have added 6" high perspex walls to protect our marshals from low flying missiles :) Aha! Yes - that is an excellent idea!

03-14-2010, 09:09 PM
Zippity - I just checked out your club track. "Magnificent" is the word that comes immediately to mind. Really - your track is gorgeous - beautifully built and finished. Inspired and inspiring!

One question - what scale is the canine?

old n slow
03-14-2010, 09:21 PM
Aww Shucks! I bet you say that to all the pretty girls! ;-)

Just the pretty ones LOL

03-14-2010, 09:39 PM
I still am underskilled at posting pictures. RECYCLE a guide flag. Cut the post off flush to top. With the dremel cut-off tool, cut a groove in the top of flag in the same direction as the blade wide enough to fit the wire guide from the stiping tool.

Use the flag to smooth out the bumps and joints in the track that the wire normally finds and makes the paint line wobbly. CLEAR enough? Match the lane stickers to colors from the 'One-Shot" color guide.

Maybe I can help stripe Jim's track when the time comes....I live fairly close.
Do you have the braid and router bit for the shelf yet?

Hi Larry - does this picture - as rough as it is - approximate what you are describing?

I would really appreciate help with striping - it's hardly a fair trade, but I'd be happy to show you how to post pictures! The braid is here, and the shelves have already been cut to accommodate the braid.

03-15-2010, 05:48 AM
Gary Gerding just finished redoing the Track at Dallas Slot Cars so I got to watch first hand. he has the best lane striping method I have ever seen it does both sides at the same time. I have used several of the methods mentioned on this forum, but none were as easy or accurate as Gary's.
Because Shontel took great step by step pictures you can see the resurfacing also. Go to www.texasslot.com scroll down to the Dallas Slot Car Forum. You can see Day 1, Day 2, Day 3 and Day 4 with Gary Gerding. On Day 2 he did the painting and striping you see a close up of his striper in action. His guide is an 1/8" rod bent at an angle and utilizes to old glue bottles to fill with paint and feed the paint on to the little rubber wheels to do this quickly and easily. Notice he did the striping before the Braid was installed.

03-15-2010, 11:59 AM
Jim - sketch looks right. I like the look of ONE lane stripe, myself. Not quite sure how Gary has the two Master Stripers mounted in tandem, maybe the guide rod is a "T" instead of an "L". Went back to 'day one' ,yup, a "T" bar.

By pressurizing the plastic bottles, the paint flows better - harder to do two at once.

03-15-2010, 07:40 PM
Jim - sketch looks right. I like the look of ONE lane stripe, myself. Not quite sure how Gary has the two Master Stripers mounted in tandem, maybe the guide rod is a "T" instead of an "L". Went back to 'day one' ,yup, a "T" bar.

By pressurizing the plastic bottles, the paint flows better - harder to do two at once.

Hi Larry - my need for balance and symmetry (did you know that most of our criminally insane have an extraordinary need for the presence of these qualities in their lives?) calls for two stripes per lane. I'm certainly willing to put in the extra work necessary. Also, mine is a single Beugler - so it is going to be one stripe at a time anyway. Also, the claim by Beugler is that the paint flows properly with the device at any angle without pressurization. I'm staring at it right now - figuring the best way to attach a guide shoe and maybe an outrigger of some kind on the other side to keep the striper level and the stripe width uniform.

03-16-2010, 12:24 AM
I agree with Montey that you worked too hard on the walls. simply bolt your small 2X2 wood wall blocks next to edge of track underneath, cut wall stip near thickness of your wall, deck screw carpenter glue two dot attach to under track blocks then trim with a curcular saw or saws all. That the way most track builders spend thier coffee breaks.
Use clear latex tub and caulk between the slight gap all around the edge of the wall and used minimally.
Theres a version that is a bit more liquidy white & cures clear that seeps very slightly a bit before curing which works well.

Sorry when I did the Hillclimb at Gig Harbor and the King at PSCR I didn't use anything more fancy than the Embee with the original wire attached.

Guess I am just used to it that way since redoing six or so more tracks. If there an easier way for yourself do so. I am sure there are many tricks. For me simple is better.

The hillclimb below also was by the way braided with VHB tape and runs spray glue with falcon LMP, Group10, and GT12.


Heres a breif tutorial.

This track was done with a narrow 1/8" stripe but recommend for big tracks to use the 3/16- 1/4" stripe instead after doing the King that way.

Practice first on a cardboard box to get use to holding and slightly pressure on the surface and rolling. While rolling you kind of lightly roll it but try not to float off surface.
Once you start your stripe KEEP Giong and don't stop....if you stop unless your carefull most likely it will blob where you pause.
If your stopping release pressure on bottle a foot B4 lift fairly quick with a rag under. I liken it to taking off in a plane.
Keep a rag and napha handy. Also a small square of cardboard nearby as your stipe roller starter to get the paint even on your roller or to remove blob accumulation.
Also keep a dry rag nearby and a paper cup.
One bottle of paint in the Embee will do appoximately 130-150ft before you have to fill again. So you should be able to do one side of a lane before refilling for next side.


The lane stripeing was done with a handy dandy Master Embee paint stripe tool and One Shot sign painters colors.
On a side note I can't say enough for using the One Shot enamel cleans up easy, rock hard when finished but suggest allow a day or two to fully cure hard/dry.
I know this is a pain but wait before running on afterwards.

Pretty impervious to everything except acitone directly left for long periods soften it. Napha doen't harm it. A half pint can can do two or three commercial tracks. Downside small cans of various colors are not under $10.00. Expect to pay $8-14 per pint can from your local automotive paint store. You can pickup your Master/Embee or Buller stiper there also.
As an alternative half pint can of Rustolium "non spray can" enamel or a similar can enamel will work but takes much longer to dry. A good 4-5 days to become chemically impervious.
They are usually about $4-6 and would definately suggest try before buying six or more cans of colors.

This Master- Embee is a vintage striper as I have had mine over 35 years. I recently picked up a second from a local automotive paint store for $15. The Buller is a good $50-100 for the full kit but is good because of the pressurised paint container.
I helped build and did this track when built originally by Hasse..
Only the bottle has been changed to an old plastic glue bottle. That was suggested from a fellow track builder back in the 80's.


Hardest part was cleaning out the striping tool and changing colors...that took longer than striping each lane itself.
I had fun with the "lapcounter running" and got about a 10-12 min paint laps per side. Breaks between heats were about 15-20min.
When I did the King I tried someones suggestion to start with the lighter color and progressivly go to a similar darker color.
Which did cut down times of cleaning the embee.
EG White lane first, yellow, orange, red, purple, blue, green, then finally black. Not european rotation, I call it my Canadian color blind rotation.
Between lane striping heats I used two jars with Napha, first jar was the inital tip cleaneing "Really Dirty" jar the second was secondary "Not as Dirty jar" rinse.
Then flushed with some additonal cleaner in a ketchup squirt bottle.
Dang it I only got 16 laps total.....

Clean up a mistake stripe is as Montey mention just wipe track immediately with Napha.


Decided to go with two stripes instead of the original one since the track is a darker color.
Would suggest you get the Embee version that has varible wheel witdths and go with the 1/4 inch width if doing only one side on each lane.



03-17-2010, 08:39 PM
Raymond - thanks for this excellent info. I feel less nervous about striping now, even less so with an offer from RamcatLarry to lend his expertise. As for the Embee, when I bought the Beugler, I didn't even know the Embee existed. At any rate, I got a killer deal on the Beugler that put it at just $20 more than the Embee for the kit with seven heads (Hmmm ... seven heads - reminds me of mother-in-law, except all seven of hers have fangs and forked tongues).

On the VHB, Mike Swiss has helped me understand how to braid with contact cement, and while practicing on a test piece of track the skin of the MDF came up before the track surface or the braid ever released from the cement. I also know that Mike rarely has to re-glue (cement) or roll braid. How has your VHB held up? Low maintenance? Medium maintenance? High maintenance? Ridiculously high maintenance - as in: "I wish I had used contact cement in the first place, this VHB stuff will be the death of me!"?


03-18-2010, 11:30 AM

One word in your latest post caught my eye as a red flag... roll. In a word, DON'T. For best adhesion AND avoiding any bumps and small inconsistancies, burnish braid with a hardwood block, just one side at a time. Visually check for flatness of the top surface of the braid. You should have applied enough glue to the braid to soak in, so in essence you are bonding both layers of the braid together as well as to the track. Pay particular attention to the areas where the braid segments drop through the track for power taps.

The reason I dislike rollers is that you can't really feel the braid as it flattens out, or see as readily if you were holding the roller perfectly parrallel to the surface. Shape the block to fit your hand, but leave the contact point with the braid fairly sharp, sanding only enough to avoid tearing braid. Burnish with a back and forth motion, and lean into it to create some substantial pressure. Don't let the braid ride up the edge of the recess, but press it flat right into the sharp corner there. You should also have enough glue in the recess to COMPLETELY bond the width of the braid, not just a bead. They're still using my teflon spreader in FL, but if necessary use cheap 'acid brushes' to coat the entire recess after applying a generous amount from your squeeze bottle. I'm not familiar with the glue you selected, but if its too thick to accomplish this well spread effect, thin it or get the StaBond.

Take a good look at Gary's braid barrel from the Dallas pictures. Its well worth your time to make one. You can coat several hundred feet of braid at a time that way, and cut it off as you approach the drop hole - no measureing, no waste, no need to keep track of precut strips laying on a countertop. When the barrel gets gooey from excess glue, just roll a layer of duct tape over it and resume what you were doing! The easy way to make the barrel itself is to cut the flanges off two 5 gallon drums (they sell empties at HD or Lowe's) and duct tape them together. Drill the bottoms for a through axle. My frame was made from PVC pipe. In my prime I had two, so an assistant could load one while I was unloading the other. A few did get purchased or permanently borrowed by raceway owners!

03-18-2010, 02:06 PM
A poor man's alternative to the Braid Barrel is an 8 foot long 6 inch diameter Carpet Roll. I kept one at my Track at all times. Roll the braid on to the carpet roll, paint with adhesive then lay it on the track as you unroll from the roll.

03-19-2010, 05:47 PM
Thanks for the added advice, Monty and TNT. I saw that braid barrel - seems like a very good idea. I like the manageable size of TNT's carpet roll suggestion. There is a high-volume warehouse just down the road from here - I'm sure they wouldn't mind parting with a roll.

Monty - as for the glue, it is quite thin at room temperature - kind of like corn syrup or honey - and very strong. One aspect of it that really appeals to me is that after the two sides are "dry", they can touch lightly without creating a permanent bond. This allows all the fussing one might want to do in terms of getting things in the recess just right. When things are just right, gentle pressure locks things in place and the braid is ready for burnishing. Mike's tracks get heavy use, and they're in primo shape.

You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that spreader anywhere, would you?

As always, thanks for your help!


03-19-2010, 11:50 PM
I the past I have used a quickcrete cardboard tube used for forming concrete cylinders. It worked great and no assembly was required. I found it at my local home improvement store.


03-28-2010, 05:36 PM
Had to take a little time away from track building - had a little famiiy business to take care of. Caulked the seams between the sidewalls and track surface. Epoxy next. Picture shows the mistake almost made. Quite a difference in dry time - 40 minutes or seven to 14 days.

For anyone who doesn't regularly use caulk, I got some advice that worked very well. Cut tip at 45 degree angle close enough to get a small bead. Then, instead of pulling the tube away from the tip while squeezing, push toward the tip. Perfect bead - no muss, no fuss. Everyone here probably knows this is how it's done - but hey, let an old man share his success!

OK! Having trouble uploading picture. The quick-dry stuff is DAP ALEX. 40 Minutes to paintable.


old n slow
04-06-2010, 07:13 AM
HEY JIM! any new pics?

04-06-2010, 07:31 AM
Can't post 'em.