JK Cheetah Chassis

[FABMAN]

I have a couple of very newbie questions about the JK Cheetah chassis. First, the chassis was given to me and is brand new in the bag. There are two little springs in the parts bag that I don't know where they go. The bag has no instructions for assembly. Second, the top pan seems to be pretty tight on the bottom pan allowing no movement at all. Is this right? Is there maybe a web sight somewhere that tells how to set one of these chassis up? Where does someone go to learn how to assemble and set up a car? And lastly, is the Cheeta an alright chassis to work with? Thanks.

[Ben Taxel]

First ... the little springs are what hold on the front wheels on ready to runs, my suggestion would be to chuck them in the trash, get some slick7 wheel retainers and solder them on. secondly the pan on the jk does not have a lot of up and down movement but can be adjusted by bending the tabs slightly on the body pan. You can also adjust fore and aft movement by putting a motor screw in the hole behind the guide.
If you have a Slot Car raceway nearby, that is the place to start to find advice on assembly and tuning, the owner may be able to help but more likely a racer will be better to talk to.
The cheetah is a very good chassis for a bunch of classes and there are different thickness pans for tuning. good luck....ben

[FABMAN]

Thanks Ben for the advise on the chassis. My club races only 1/32 RTR cars like Fly and SCX and the like. I'm pretty much on my own with 1/24 cars though. It's just something I like tinkering with. Thanks again.

[mudhen]

downtown is actually talking about using these sorry assed chassis with sealed super 16's and no down force euro-touring bodies(bleah!)

my question is....where does one start in the tuning process for these turkeys? i mean good lord, i finally get o.k. with turbos and he throws THIS out there!

xxoo mudhen:confused: :eek:

[Dan P]

These chassis were the hot ticket a few years back. They are very light and work great with high downforce bodies right out of the bag, it takes a bit of fiddling to make them work with nascars and stuff like that.
I have an article from SCB that shows how to set them up. Email me and I'll be glad to send it to both you guys.

[Rotorranch]

ROFL.......Gee Muddy, I got a Volvo Station Wagon I'm dying to try out! Sounds Like DT is just trying to keep you guys on your toes!

I can't wait to get my new track opened and kick some Beetle butt with my Volvo Wagon! ;)

Yeah, I'm Jonesin right now. My track has been down for a couple weeks, and I can't stand it! :eek: Not to mention my Kid is havin a fit to go slot racin'!

I hope to find a new building real soon, in a location that suits the hobby!

Rotor

[Bill from NH]

Rotor, those Volvo wagons can cruise pretty good! One of the local guys built a 4-wheel drive version a couple years ago with two super 16Ds. All of us had a blast driving that car.

[Ramcatlarry]

The pans on the Cheetah should fit loosely and have a noticablefront to back travel. The thick 3/16 nylon washer in the kit is a front travel stop for pan motion and should be right under the guide nut. The little hole right behind the flag was added for an optional motor screw to further limit travel. Some of the newer SS pans have had burrs on them that tended to bind up the motion - A QC problem for sure. File and tweak to fit. The old punching dies are clearanced for mild steel - not Stainless Steel -it makes a difference in how they eject in the process. This is still hard to beat on a tight track...use the heavy setup, add a Falcon motor and Rally car body and have FUN>...