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Thread: Airbrushing 202

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Yellow Submarine
    Posts
    54

    Which colors go together

    Hi Mopar,

    The body looks great and doesn't seem too difficult either.


    I always have trouble working out which colors go together best. Are there any simple rules to follow on this??

    tks
    Michael

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    149
    Originally posted by Fast_mick


    The body looks great and doesn't seem too difficult either.


    I always have trouble working out which colors go together best. Are there any simple rules to follow on this??
    None of it is that hard to do, that is why I did this thread. Itís a matter of learning how to use the tool and thinking the steps out. I used an airbrush to keep the film build down since this is a wing body. People shouldnít be discouraged if they donít have an airbrush. I could have painted the same colors with rattle cans and almost made it look the same. The biggest difference would have been the amount of paint on the body, and the flames would have been a fade.

    There are rules about color selection, but you donít always have to follow them. I had a color theory class in college, which helps. What Iím going recommend is what I do most of the time. Look at real race cars, advertising signs, cereal boxes, fabric and tropical fish. Professionals make a lot of money designing fabric or making catchy things for us to buy. You can also never beat mother nature. Donít try to reinvent the color wheel just copy it.

    Rob


    BTW I usually donít paint up nice bodies for myself. I have never won concourse or tried to win it. I think concourse judging is too political. I donít see any uniform guides for Judging. A person could paint a body in the correct livery and the Judge could be choosing based on his preference of colors. You could have the opposite, someone spent an enormous amount of time painting a body and a decaled car could win because the of the judges preferences for real cars.
    If you think your having a bad day, try missing one.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    351

    IWATA MODEL

    Mopar
    Can you please advise which model Iwata gun you are using as there are many models to choose from?
    Thanks

    Gill A NZ

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    3

    Iwata airbrush

    Iwata airbrush

    The information in this thread is about the use of solvent medium paints and is very informative.; keep the thread going please.

    At present I am mostly using water based paints but I have found that certain types of paint schemes are better done with Pactra/Testor laquer.

    I am currently at the stage of getting a new airbrush and want to be able to use both types of paint.

    How importatant is it that the needle seal is compatible with solvents . In the case of some Iwata airbrushes it is now possible to get airbrushes with Teflon needle bearings . How important is this ; I have read that soaking in "solvents " is a no no but is flushing out with laquer thinner a problem ?

    This is advice that would help not only myself but others who are now considering using "solvent" based paint

    Tony
    Tony

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    149
    Originally posted by tony
    Iwata airbrush

    I am currently at the stage of getting a new airbrush and want to be able to use both types of paint.

    How importatant is it that the needle seal is compatible with solvents . In the case of some Iwata airbrushes it is now possible to get airbrushes with Teflon needle bearings . How important is this ; I have read that soaking in "solvents " is a no no but is flushing out with laquer thinner a problem ?
    If I were to buy a new airbrush I would try to get the Teflon seals. I have used a HP-C for over 10 years and never had a problem. Since mine doesnít have the Teflon seals I always make sure I keep the solvent in the cup. If gets in the other side you could have a problem with the seals swelling (not good) You should never soak any airbrush or spray gun in solvent, water or anything. You will get residue in the air passages and wont be able to get it out. Even a slight film build in the air passages will hinder performance.

    According to the reps (they will lie from time to time) all the guns and airbrushes in the Iwata USA line have the Teflon seals. I would ask to make sure.

    http://iwatausa.com


    I have always purchased my airbrush equipment from Bear Air. Their prices in a lot of instances were my cost when I worked in the industry.
    http://bearair.com
    If you think your having a bad day, try missing one.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    In the Middle
    Posts
    1,169

    Cup ??? for Rob

    Rob, Is the gravity cup removeable? do you have a few to quickly change color? Some tips on cleaning and changing colors would be great. Thanks for all of the painting and masking tips
    Ray
    Resident Curmudgeon
    "Manta" Ray Price

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    149
    Ray:

    The cup is not removable. I think color changes and clean up are just as fast or faster than a siphon gun. If you look at the picture between steps 3 and 4 you will see a plastic bottle. I have a couple of these with different temp range solvents and one for clean up. For clean up I just put some solvent in the cup and swish it around with a cheap paintbrush. It is how I also mix the paint. I put a little reducer in the cup and add paint then mix with the paintbrush. You can mix custom colors right in the cup and then spray. I had Roger take some pictures of me mixing the paint because I figured someone would ask. Iím sure he can email to you.
    If you think your having a bad day, try missing one.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Posts
    4,491
    I had Roger take some pictures of me mixing the paint because I figured someone would ask. Iím sure he can email to you.
    No!

    Please display them here for all to see

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Palmyra, PA
    Posts
    45

    equipment

    I want to get into airbrushing, I have been using the rattle cans for the past two years and I thinks did some ok work. I bought a cheap airbrush and I think I made a mistake. I don't need top of the line but don't want buttom barrel. What and were can I buy good equipment? Any help would be great.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    149
    Try
    http://www.bearair.com

    Top of the line is $400.00 and I don't know what bottom barrel costs. I have used the Iwata eclipse before and it seemed OK. I think its around the $70.00 range. I would think $50.00-100.00 would be fine for most people. For slot car painting look at a .2mm to .3mm needle size for gravity guns
    If you think your having a bad day, try missing one.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Long Island
    Posts
    39
    Hey Rob, those bodies look great. The way you control the fades is very nice and i like the cleanliness in the edges of the paints. I have been painting for some time now, and only discovered the advantages of all of these vynil masks within the last year or so. Everything i have done was with masking tape and cutting the masks my self.

    I primarily use an Iwata eclipse hp-bcs which is a siphon gun and have been very pleased with it. I still like spraying the laquer based paints better but for lack of ventilation and the way that paint hardens in the gun i prefer the createx or faskolor stuff. I have a nice setup with all of my paints in four ounce bottles and have the caps that screw directly onto the bottles. Having had to paint 77 bodies last weekend and another 50 this coming weekend im glad that I can switch colors up without having to clean the entire cup out each time just shoot some water and it works its way out.

    I recently found a great thayer and chandler gravity feed brush though for 50$ at a local 50% off sale ( I saw the omega 5 i believe it is at bear air for 65 dollars) and use this strictly for spraying white. Since I have switched to createx paints I have discovered that they require a lot of white backing. I think we are about through a 16 ounce bottle I bought only last fall. I must say the consisteny and controllability of this gun is very nice. If you paint in small amounts and like to spray very detailed i see the advantage of the gravity gun. In my case with the amount of painting That I do the iwata is a good workhorse and switching colors it is very helpful. I have it couples to a coleman compressor that i got at pepboys for 65 dollars( better than 100 at home depot. Thanks to whoever posted that thread a few months back about the compressor) and i bought a splitter for the hose so i spray my colors with the iwata and the whites with the gravity feed.

    This is a good thread here, Great pictures and very nice work. Keep it up.



    -brian
    Last edited by GeckoRacing; 07-29-2005 at 06:18 AM.
    1.4.3

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    149

    Thank you,

    Itís nice to get a compliment from someone who does it for a living. You do a nice production body. Iím sure if price werenít an object, they would be even nicer. I was going to race Box 12 at Chicagoland for the Firecracker 1.4 challenge and was going to purchase one of your winged bodies. I donít race wing cars and donít have the slightest idea how to wing a body. Your winged bodies seemed nice for a reasonable amount of money.

    There are a lot of people who can paint a nice body and everyone has their specialty. In Chicago I can think of a bunch off the top of my head. Brian McHerry does great portraits, Joey, Eddie (DZ1), Naggy, Dave Gass, and lastly Jack Beers ďI spent a week on that interiorĒ Jack has been winning concourse since the 60ís

    There are a lot of good airbrushes out in the market. I just have a preference for Iwata. I am very abusive to the tool and it takes all I dish out. I have owned a couple of other brands and they didnít last over a year with me. If I maintained them properly they probably would have lasted a lifetime. Iwata or specifically Bear air is good with parts. I always bend the needle. If you look closely I spray with the safety cap off so I can get closer to the object. Once and a while I get too aggressive and stick the needle into the object and bend it.
    If you think your having a bad day, try missing one.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    In the Middle
    Posts
    1,169

    More ??'s for Rob

    Some Pactra Laquer Paint I use.........Just "Clumps when I use regular "Paint Store" Laquer Thinner. What are the different Automotive thinners do you use. Are the thinners able to be kept in the plastic squeeze bottles without "melting" the plastic? Where do you get those bottles?

    BTW......From what I have seen on the web..........Bearair has terrific prices.......

    Thanks in advance...........Have you heard from Rog/Swiss or Tony?
    Resident Curmudgeon
    "Manta" Ray Price

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    In the Middle
    Posts
    1,169

    Hello...Mopar_Rob

    Rob, Help me out with the Laquer ????'s in the previous post
    tx
    Ray
    Resident Curmudgeon
    "Manta" Ray Price

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    351

    Thinners

    Ray
    I can only assume that the diluents you have tried are not compatible with some of the Pactra paints.
    I have been using acetone over the entire Pactra range for years and it works great.
    Acetone will flash off quicker than the lacquer thinners thus enabling you to put more coats/colours on in a night.
    You can keep lacquer thinners in PE (polyethylene) squeeze bottles with no probs.
    Acetone will also keep in a PE bottle with no probs.
    Hope that is of some help.
    Gill A
    NZ

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