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Thread: Mini Motor Mania

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NorthWesterner now in Philippines
    Posts
    9,386

    Cool Mini Motor Mania

    Mini Motor Mania - OWH's Guide to Spec Mini Motors

    Several years ago, Plafit Cheetah motors were gaining popularity for entry level and Spec motor class racing at Commercial Raceways and racing clubs throughout the USA. Then, almost suddenly, the availability of the Cheetah motors seemed to run out, and the news was spread that the huge supply of these motors that had been ordered years ago from Mabuchi, had finally run out.

    There have been other versions of Plafit motors, as well as several other somewhat similar motors from other companies, but most were designed for lower RPM's more suitable for home and club type tracks, and not directly compareable to the Cheetah.

    As all available Cheetah motors were snatched up, NorCal racer and business owner Todd Radke began sourcing motors during his business trips to China. After several trips and much R&D, he contracted a batch of replacement motors with features and specs designed to improve the consistancy as well as overall quality. These motors were then marketed by JK Products as the "Falcon" motor, and the popularity grew by leaps and bounds as a choice for Spec racing classes. Subsequent production runs of the Falcon motors continued to add improvements, and the current batch is dubbed the "Falcon 5".

    Recently Slick 7 has also jumped into the spec mini motor market with their own version of Mini Motor, and it has been steadily gaining popularity.

    Now Pro Slot has come out with their new version of a mini motor - the "Euro MK1" mini motor. Rather then being simply another sealed motor, the Pro Slot features and endbell similar to most modern slot car motors, offering the ability to be rebuildable rather then disposable. These features add up to about double the cost of the others, but again, can be rebuilt, resulting in long term savings. The Pro Slot motors are also be ordered with Security Seals.

    Below is a list of the current crop of Mini Motors... as a guide to help OWH readers know what is available.

    All of these motors should be available from your favorite local or mail-order raceway (including several OWH Sponsors!), through the usual slot car distributors. Following in this list are the part numbers and descriptions to help in finding, choosing, and buying the motor of your choice - or for making your own comparisons...

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    JK Products



    JK's web site did not list any specs or info other then the basic list of versions.
    I'll add more info as it becomes available...

    JK3020P - FALCON MOTOR FIRST GENERATION-1PC. - Price: $4.95

    JK3020 - FALCON 2 MOTOR REVERSE TIMING - Price: $7.50

    JK30202 - FALCON 4 MOTOR BALANCED AND SEALED - Price: $7.50

    JK30205 - FALCON 5 MOTOR - CURRENT VERSION - Price: $8.95

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    Slick 7



    S7-588 Slick 7 High RPM "Mini" Motor - $7.95 ea

    New Mini motor has been shaking racing circles everywhere! The new motor is designed for high RPM needed on roadcourses or low volts commercial tracks. gives better punch and brakes than competitive Motors. and have a definite advantage on roadcourses. Gear carefully by monitoring heat, will safely pull 12T pinions, but if conditions allow for 13T and bigger pinions, this motor will be significally faster than other brands.

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    Pro Slot






    EURO MK1 MOTOR

    Euro MK1 Motor Designed for 1/32 and 1/24 Scale - Home, Club, and Commercial Racing (Perfect for Rental Cars). Features epoxied armature, dynamic balance, phenolic molded commutator, replaceable motor brushes and springs, high gauss magnets, double-ended shaft for mounting in any standard "Mabuchi" application. Features endbell mounting holes in the can to allow for rebuild and scratch builders.
    Also Available Double Security Sealed.

    PS-4000 Euro MK1 Motor - 26,100+ RPM, 155/gm-cm, 280ma. and standard with the 45 degree springs. Also Available Double Security Sealed - $19.15

    PS-4001 Euro MK1 Motor - 37,000+ RPM, 160/gm-cm, 300mA, and standard with 60 degree springs. Perfect for Rental Cars and Commercial Racing. Also available Double Security Sealed. - $19.15

    PS-4002 Euro MK1 Motor - 47,000+ RPM, 160/gm-cm, 950mA, and standard with 90 degree springs. Perfect for Rental Cars and Commercial Group 10 type racing. Also available Double Security Sealed. - $19.15



    PS-4013-45 Replacement Springs 45 degrees $1.00

    PS-4013-60 Replacement Springs 60 degrees $1.00

    PS-4013-90 Replacement Springs 90 degrees $1.00

    PS-4014 Replacement Motor Brushes $1.60

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    As these new motors begin to get tested, compared, and raced against each other - we invite discussion and comments comparing results and opinions about these new motors...

    Bon Apetit!

    Paul Kassens
    Old Weird Herald
    Last edited by oldweirdherald; 11-06-2006 at 11:49 AM.
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    Paul Kassens
    OWH Slot Car Talk "Mom"
    The Old Weird Herald
    email: paulk@oldweirdherald.com

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Louisville, Kentucky
    Posts
    46

    Low Maintenance FUN

    Can't comment on Slick7 or the SpeedFX product (but intriguing), but at my home track, the first edition of the Plafit motor was the cornerstone of our racing program for a long time. Not the fastest, but easy to work with, and a hoot to watch coast during a track call. And, given the (then) $9.00 or so price tag, easy to buy several of. And they were consistent; very few dogs ever came out of a large purchase order. In summary, they were FUN - not an 'in-your-face' type of competitiveness, just, plain, fun.

    Something happened with the next generation; I recall Todd being stumped with the lack of consistency and longevity in the second iteration of the product. It was at this point (unfortunately) that the track forsook the Plafit motor (and it almost killed the existence of the track business itself).

    We are trying to make a comeback with the latest rendition of the Cheetah motor, but I think that the taste of speed from built D-can classes will prevent these motors from ever making a real impression on the racing program.

    I like the physical look of the SpeedFx product, but, that exposed endbell can lead to all sorts of mischief that was not intended. If the rules allow it, feel free to tweak, but I always liked the closed design because it was relatively tamper-free; beginners and experienced racers could run together knowing the difference was driving that won races, not motor advantages.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Renton, Washington
    Posts
    391

    motorama

    My vote Slick 7 #S7-588, Great brakes and punch for the bucks.



    HRK

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    587
    We use Falcan 5s in Indy cars, a lot of fun.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Kirkland
    Posts
    500

    observations

    One thing Paul did not mention is that if you look at the endbell it has a flat at the bottom , as to accomidate snapping into a Slot-it motor pod ! or any scalelectrix car . Also if you look closley & or "blueprint" one of these bad-boys you will find that they dont "center" in the magnetic field & are pulled hard against the can oilite you cant just move washers to fix it either as the commutater will be half out of the brush hood track the only fix is to heat the magnets to break the glue bond ,re zapp the magnets (cause of the heat) grind off 2 little bumps at the bottom of the endbell,bend the tabs at the bottom of the can too reposition the magnets hard against the endbell (when fully seated) or re-glue in place. then you can space accordingly & still remain w/full brush contact for those interested I measured the arm-stack at about 523 & the magnets at about 539 leaving a sizable air-gap , even at this I think these motors have better brakes & bottom end than any falcon or slick-7 One more IMPORTANT thing ! If you remove the endbell dont rely on bending the tabs back! put screws in it I had the endbell "floppin" loose & it slowed down & it got HOT-HOT-HOT !just starting w/these , soo if anyone can add to this please do so Hope i could help ....Crag (AKA Fly-Racing):

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Bothell, WA USA
    Posts
    163

    ProSlot imperfections

    grind off 2 little bumps at the bottom of the endbell,bend the tabs at the bottom of the can too reposition the magnets hard against the endbell (when fully seated) or re-glue in place.

    ======================================

    I found it disappointing that there was so much work involved to make the motor right.

    Craig went the extra mile to reposition the magnets to find magnetic center of the arm. I spaced the arm toward the can bearing as far as I could and settled for that. I found that the can was too wide for the endbell so I carefully squeezed the can to fit snugly. The brush hoods look a little misaligned as well but I choose to live with it. Then I pushed the can/endbell tabs back in position to button it up.

    Yes, the ProSlot seems to be faster. I was pulling some Falcon 5s by 5 feet down the main straight. But I don't think most racers want to have to mess with all the spacing and design problems. Nice to have real brushes in there ....... 36D type
    ~DC dynamo~

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Superior, Wisconsin
    Posts
    68
    The Proslot mini is the best. S7 may be a little faster for a while, but they die after a while. I tried the Big Dog arm in one PS mini. I zapped the mags while it was apart, but it still did not have enough brakes, but wow! What speed. Stick with the stock mini, it's a riot.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Wellsville, Ohio
    Posts
    91

    Falcon

    Sorry that I caught this post so late.

    I have lately been trying to find an in-expensive motor that I could use in a spec class that was tamper proof. The Falcon seemed to be the one that I chose only to find that they are not tamper proof as mentioned in the above posts.

    In addition, I'd like to know if the Falcon motors are good for only one race or are they made to last a whole racing season ?

    Also , are they capable of powering a Parma FCR chassis successfully ?

    Gone Gonzo
    Thx,

    Gonzo

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Victorville, CA
    Posts
    1,725

    A few new observations!

    I found myself deep inside a PS4002 the other day, as a customer had ordered a custom replacement armature and some setup mods (ball bearings). I found 2 items worth noting that I haven't seen comments on in any of the forums, so here goes.

    1) There were shims behind the magnets. I didn't take them out, but they were visible, and rather nicely factory installed. Hole gap measured .530 - definitely closer than the last time I was in one of these motors.

    2) Upon punching out the can bushing, which looks like the typical sintered bronze material, I realized it was STICKING TO THE MAGNET. Yup, some sort of alloy not seen before in my experience. I can't tell you if this is good or bad, I've just never seen the like before.

    Thought y'all might benefit from the info, or maybe someone who has a lot more experience with these motors can comment on the bushing and how well it holds up, or if its any harder or easier on the shaft.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,162
    Monty, when I removed the magnets from my PS4002, I did not notice any shims. I measured the airgap at about .537" which suggests to me somebody shimmed those mags and it wasn't PS. BTW, the Mura magnets I had fit really nicely in that can, the only problem was the honing. Had to start with a .469 then got bigger from there. But those magnets are sweet in that can with a .528" airgap honed out, the mags really wrap around! After cranking the endbell timing up (I'll let you figure out how I did that!) it now sounds like a decent Super Wasp/Stinger with the Big Dog arm, pulls a good 2.5 amps at 3 volts and close to 4 amps when I crank it. It'll be geared 8:42 in my JK Products C Can Euro chassis. For me, this is the next best thing to building a C Can motor.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Victorville, CA
    Posts
    1,725

    Saw what I saw...

    George,

    I removed that motor from new packaging, and it was one of the double sealed variety. It was just this week, so I don't know if there have been any recent changes to specs. I recall being told a year ago that there are also two different thicknesses on the can if you look through more than a few. As I noted, I'm not complaining, it was nicely done, and the motor is like I prefer, very low cog.
    Last edited by Monty@B.O.W.; 04-24-2009 at 11:41 PM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    3

    mini brute specs?

    What is the listed spec for the mini brute?
    High RPM is just not enough info... lol

    The price seems right... But I want to know the RPM please...

    Scott

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