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Thread: Womp Setup Help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    8

    Womp Setup Help

    Our local raceway is starting a womp/deathstar racing series on a Windsor 75 foot track and I have never set up womps before, just wing & flexi anglewinders.

    I have bent the rear of the Parma pan up to align the pinion and crown
    triangulated the motor mount tab to the rear uprights using piano wire
    strengthened the chassis with 2 square brass tubes from front to back along the uprights
    soldered the motor in
    set up front wheels with minimal track clearance (a few thou)
    fronts also set to the width of the body, including some side to side play

    Car weighs 112 grams with 64 gm on rears.
    Parma corvette body
    9/27 gears
    JK 0.820 tires, full width

    The car can take the bank at full throttle (provided the front wheels aren’t too high) and handles well in the donut, but jumps around coming out of the 90 and down the front straight unless I hold off on the throttle for what seems like forever.

    Car is running 3.1 seconds in the middle lanes and 3.3 on the outer and inner lanes.

    Someone told me to increase the pinion size to reduce the torque out of the 90, but I haven’t tried it yet.

    I was also thinking the JK tires are a little too sticky, so I should switch to some Parma tires.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks,

    Rocket Man
    Last edited by rocket man; 05-30-2008 at 04:43 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    S.F/Seattle
    Posts
    781

    Thumbs up Repeat after Me

    Lead is your Friend!
    Support Your Local Raceway
    AKA "Big John"
    Bring us around

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Wesley Chapel, FL.
    Posts
    1,410

    Thumbs up lead.......



    I got the Champion chassis cause of the bouncing. The Parma are really picky on making sure the axil is setup perfact on the back. I have yet to see a Parma womp that the axils were lined up right. Thats where a cheep jig comes in handy.You did right on lining up the axil & pinion and strengthening the back half. Make sure the axil bushings are as tite as you can find & soldered in. Shortin the axil as much as you can. I even tru all the tires. Depending on the track. I put a small piece of lead on the wings just behind the front wheels and one as close behind the guide as I can. I run on a 120ft. modified Gerding hillclimb and geard 9-30 (3.33 where an 8-27 is 3.31) with Alpha tires. I saw one start bouncing after a wall shot cause the guide was bent front down.

    THEIR NAMED WOMPS CAUSE THAT THE SOUND THEY MAKE LANDING ON THE FLOOR.......

    PHIL I.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    North Royalton
    Posts
    955
    Quote Originally Posted by rocket man
    Our local raceway is starting a womp/deathstar racing series on a Windsor 75 foot track and I have never set up womps before, just wing & flexi anglewinders.

    I have bent the rear of the Parma pan up to align the pinion and crown
    triangulated the motor mount tab to the rear uprights using piano wire
    strengthened the chassis with 2 square brass tubes from front to back along the uprights
    soldered the motor in
    set up front wheels with minimal track clearance (a few thou)
    fronts also set to the width of the body, including some side to side play

    Car weighs 112 grams with 64 gm on rears.
    Parma corvette body
    9/27 gears
    JK 0.820 tires, full width

    The car can take the bank at full throttle (provided the front wheels aren’t too high) and handles well in the donut, but jumps around coming out of the 90 and down the front straight unless I hold off on the throttle for what seems like forever.

    Car is running 3.1 seconds in the middle lanes and 3.3 on the outer and inner lanes.

    Someone told me to increase the pinion size to reduce the torque out of the 90, but I haven’t tried it yet.

    I was also thinking the JK tires are a little too sticky, so I should switch to some Parma tires.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks,

    Rocket Man
    Are you running the brass chassis or steel chassis? The steel chassis is not nearly as good as the brass one. Sounds like you did everything else right. Making the front wheels independent will help a lot. I would use a big hub type tire also. Using a larger pinion will usually make the problem worse but you can try it. Can you use a Kremer Porsche body? Ah one more important thing, don't solder your motor in just use the screws. It sounds dumb but thats a big change.

    Paul

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    8
    Thanks Guys,

    I think the problem is mainly caused because there is no separate floating pan to dampen out the vibrations, and 112 grams bouncing as a unit is a lot of weight.

    I always check to make sure my cars roll straight before I install the guide and gear, and check it after any hard wall shot...WOMP.

    Some of the other racers use lead up front behind the guide, etc., but I don't like using extra weight except as a last resort because of that Newton's second law thing.

    I am using a Parma steel pan because I had a 30+ year old Womp to start from. I only soldered the motor at the top of the tab in the back and used a screw at the bottom, so the front of the motor is free to "float", but I will try using just screws.

    I'm not sure if we can use the Kremer Porsche body, but the raceway didn't have any.

    I like the idea of independent fronts, and will give it a try.

    I am definitely going to try some Parma aluminum big hub tires, the JK plastic hubs are possibly too flexible.

    Rocket Man

    P.S. Paul, does the brass chassis possibly work better than steel because of it's weight or different damping characteristics?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Wesley Chapel, FL.
    Posts
    1,410

    Thumbs up Mmmmmm......



    Independent fronts........Gonna have to try that....
    I do an L shapped piano wire down the sides of the motor mount, with the motor mounted, and following the chassis back to the axil. Then cut a new piece down the uprights & around the back of the chassis to tie the sides in. I cut the mount & wire to the highth of the motor and soldered the top of the motor in only &
    screwed the bottom only. Don't be a gorilla on the screw cause I have seen them strip, pull the bushing into a bind and poeple go to a larger screw and to long that went into the wires. The JK plastic rims are good & strong. I have YET to see a bent or offset plastc rim. I get about 20% of Alpha rims comming off center. I use them for play or practice and most of the time I don't get a bounce ...But when I do....I save the allen screw & toss the one tire and wait till I get another cause usually both arn't bad. You will find what workes the best for you cause everything on this thread works...Just dirrerent strokes- for different folks

    TRACK TESTING...THE ONLY WAY TO GO
    PHIL I.


    PHIL I

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    portage indiana
    Posts
    240
    Try a riggen brass chassis!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    35

    wompin

    Hey Rocket man

    Yes.. womps would be great to run ! now if one can only get Parma to reissue the womp-extenders for that chassis ? You could do this and run these..I do





    or stanard size womps












    O2R
    Last edited by one27ray; 06-03-2008 at 02:33 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Wesley Chapel, FL.
    Posts
    1,410

    Thumbs up nice.....

    Where can we get those womp bodies? I have not seen them or if I have I lumped them in with the narrower 1/32 bodies.. I can make extenders.

    PHIL I.

    DUH......JUST LOOKED......womps are 2.5 wide regular listed 1/32 are wider...scalectrics take a different body again...
    Last edited by Phil I.; 06-03-2008 at 03:45 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    8
    Wow one27ray, that's super wompin!

    I really like that super cut out womp chassis...bet that would help my chatter problem, as would a Riggen brass chassis.

    I'm not sure that would be legal, but I have yet to see any Womp rules.

    Hey Paul, any "official" Womp rules out there?

    Rocket Man

    Hmm... how fast could a womp go on a new Blue King track, such as BP, with a group 7 motor and one of those sweet womp bodies, with air control of course...oh the possiblilties. lol

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    35

    wompin

    Hi Guys

    Phil I./Rocket man. I used to post hear a lot more back a while ago, been over at SF. But I do read stuff here all the time. What you see are womp body's I did a few years ago. Some were design with the womp extenders Parma us to make,( 12 different one). I had a really problem finding any, so I made my own. I also have quite a few regular body's that fit right on a womp. A bunch of Thingies ones too. Yes... I did put air control packages on a womp with a hot rewind...one word ..Fast. I was thinking of doing it to one of the Chot-noda body's. I found that cutting the womp steel/brass chassis helped with the handling tremendously. The womp chassis is one of the most versatile chassis made today, you can modify the heck out of it and it will handle great. Parma has always had a winner with it, My personal opinion ! If you guys are interested in anything PM me and we can get the wheels a going..Viva La-womp. Post some pic's of your womps too !

    O2R

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Umatilla, Fl
    Posts
    1,241
    Quote Originally Posted by rocket man

    Hmm... how fast could a womp go on a new Blue King track, such as BP, with a group 7 motor and one of those sweet womp bodies, with air control of course...oh the possiblilties. lol

    Who in their right mind would ever want to do something like you've stated?

    Fortunately, most of us are not in our right minds and I'll tell you this, it's a whole lot of fun!

    Kind of like driving a 12 inch to the foot 1500 pound sprint car with about 800 horses on board!

    Yep, I had to play one day when I found I had a spare Womp chassis sitting in the spare parts box. It was raining out, I had a couple of "adult beverages" and decided, "What the heck?"

    So, I took a brand new Parma Super 16D Rotor Motor, an 8 tooth pinion, 27 tooth crown gear, removed all the spacers (they handle much better with the wheels in closer) and put a set of independantly spinning front wheels on the chassis. The crowning touch was a Womp Wing Thing body one of my friends had painted up.

    Put it all together and Shazzam! The Wonderful Wild Winged Thing was born!


    I had a chance to run it on a "Kompressed King"


    Now, if you want something that will enforce "easing on the throttle" then you really need to build one of these for yourself. It will teach you how to drive a slot car. Once a too quick a move has been made, you know why they call them "WOMP!"

    What kind of lap times will it run? I was running 4.3 and 4.2 lap times consistently, once my trigger finger got used to smoothly applying the throttle as you came out of turns. It will run wide open through the banking and donut on this track. It's a ball and a lot of cheap, realiable fun.

    But isn't that what Parma Products are all about?
    Last edited by fl_slotter; 06-05-2008 at 03:16 AM.
    Florida Slotter, aka Marty Stanley,
    A "Double 60's" Slot Racer
    Killer X Raceways Team Racer

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Dutchess County, NY
    Posts
    34
    Ray, Can you post some better pics of the cut up Womp? Where did the extended front ended ones come frome? I never saw one before.

    flslotter, any pics with the body off? Must be one of the newer chassis that can take the newer motors. Mine won't accept the newer ones, just the older end bell drive motors. The newer motors sit to high.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    35

    Awesome Womp !

    Hey Guys

    Now that's what I'm talking about. Awesome Winged-Womp... that spells FUN in my book. I'll get some better pic's to show.

    I have the old and new parma womp chassis, but using the newer brass one of late. When parma up graded the chassis it made a big difference in the handling and wheel base set-ups. I even cut it up and make all kinds of chassis lengths for different body styles- from 1/32 to 1/24. Mopower 71, yes- the newer chassis are better for the newer motors and hot rewinds and I'll get some better pic's of the chassis for you. And what can I say about the Track.. Fantasic..hav'nt run on a big track in quite a while-gee whiz...
    I whole heartedly agree- cheap -fun/womp/parma all a guy needs to have fun Those Parma guys are so smart...all these years.. Thanks Parma for the FUN

    O2R

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    35

    Awesome Womp !

    Hey Guys

    Now that's what I'm talking about. Awesome Winged-Womp... that spells FUN in my book. I'll get some better pic's to show.

    I have the old and new parma womp chassis, but using the newer brass one of late. When parma up graded the chassis it made a big difference in the handling and wheel base set-ups. I even cut it up and make all kinds of chassis lengths for different body styles- from 1/32 to 1/24. Mopower 71, yes- the newer chassis are better for the newer motors and hot rewinds and I'll get some better pic's of the chassis for you. And what can I say about the Track.. Fantasic..hav'nt run on a big track in quite a while-gee whiz...
    I whole heartedly agree- cheap -fun/womp/parma all a guy needs to have fun Those Parma guys are so smart...all these years.. Thanks Parma for the FUN

    O2R

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