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Thread: newbie seeting up a womp

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    brisbane, australia
    Posts
    42

    newbie seeting up a womp

    hi all i am from Australia and i have started racing agin after 20 years and still have my old womp which i am trying get going.
    i have read most of the things i have found on the forum about setting up womps and was wondering if you could tell me if i am on the right track.
    it is a steel chassis with a super 16d motor, i have bent and twisted the chassis so the front wheels are almost touching the track, keeping in mind to keep the chassis straight. i have also fitted smaller tyres (not sure of the size) than the ones that came with the car originally to get the chassis as close to the track as i can. i have also widened the rear track as i heard this also helped with handling.
    does any one have any other advice.
    i will edit the post once i found out how long and what sort of track it will be used on. the gearing is 9/29.
    Last edited by wittyracin; 01-25-2010 at 08:16 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NorthWesterner now in Philippines
    Posts
    9,516

    Womp Survival

    The reality of Womps is that they are an extremely basic cheap car that handles like crap. Ironically, because they all handle like crap, they can also be a real hoot to drive!

    The problem is, that besides being quite easy to pile your toy into the nearest wall (let alone the farthest wall), they also are prone to being turned into a pretzel when you do so.

    So the emphasis is on bracing your Womp for survival. A picture is worth a thousand words... but since my camera is broke, I'll try my darndest to keep it down to a few hundred.

    First, make a "U" brace that is soldered along the top of the motor bracket, and then braces the rear bushing uprights. Be sure your bushings are aligned and soldered in while your at it. Solder the motor to the top of the brace while you're there.

    Next run a .055 or .063 piano wire down each side of the motor all the way front to back. You might want to also make a "U" brace some sort doing the same for the front axle uprights, or at least a couple of "L" braces on each side.

    Then make a smaller "U" brace out of .032 or .047 wire, with a "Z" bend, to brace the guide tongue.

    Slap on a .010 or .015 (or even .030) body, and bullet proof the pin holes, fender wells, front bumper, and rear panels to keep the trunk out of the gears.

    Finally, pile it full of lead until you need a fork lift to hoist it from your box to the track. The turn marshals may need to be equipped with those lifting waist belts and protective face gear, and you might check if the track owner has plenty of liability insurance.

    OK.... so by now you're wondering how all this makes it handle any better.
    Well... if you've already discovered it still handles like crap... I never claimed this would improve the handling (much, anyway).

    HOWEVER... - with all this bracing and bullet proofing, it is much more likely that after all the other Womps have turned into pretzels, stripped their gears, ripped off their bodies, and the turn marshals will all be hopelessly incapacitated or on their way to the nearest emergency ward... chances are you'll be the last Womp still running, and you'll win the race by mere survival.

    If they haven't kicked you out by then, you'll soon be crowned "King of the Womps" and feared by all who dare race against you.

    Last edited by oldweirdherald; 01-25-2010 at 08:34 PM.
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    Paul Kassens
    OWH Slot Car Talk "Mom"
    The Old Weird Herald
    email: paulk@oldweirdherald.com

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Hey Paul, you left out the best way to set up a womp! Take the body off, throw away the chassis and put in a new Cheetah 11. Now throw away the body you over bullet proofed and get a nice new body to go on that nice new chassis and go have a blast with a car that actually handles VERY good when set up correctly!

    Seriously though. Done right, the old womp can be a hoot to drive. Take a Nascar hard body and mount it on that thing with Pro track tires on it. Velcro the body to the chassis, narrow the rear tires if you have too much grip and go have fun with a very drivable car. Don't forget to add a few pounds of lead to the car as well! Some of the funnest racing I have ever had was racing the hard bodies on the old West Seattle HillClimb track in this configuration.
    Gary Johnson

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    brisbane, australia
    Posts
    42
    thanks for the reply paul and gary i will give the car a run with mods i have done already and then give you suggestions ago if it is still a handful

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    statesboro GA
    Posts
    52
    I ran my womps a bit different, I never stiffened or weighted my cars.

    My setup involved making sure the chassis was straight, If it was a parma womp (i used steel chassis not brass) i used .790 tires, If it was a Champion thumper, i used 13/16 tires, usually Alpha Tans or parma big ones (no tuna's).

    I always added a couple degrees to the guide (tilted up slightly)

    We had no rules Where i raced except for 16D motors and width of a standard tech tool (The one like a wing) so i set mine as wide as i could to the tool

    We also didn't have a standard for bodies, so i cut then down as low as possible. The '73 vette body and the Int 32 thunderbird bodies were the best handling bodies i run, I never tryed the 1/32 intrepid, but figure it'd be almost perfect.

    That's how i set mine up, My belief was part of owning a womp, was working on it if you wrecked. The more you drive one , the better you will get in every class you drive.
    Larry Palmer JR

    former womp master of Middle GA

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