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Thread: Ok it's driving me crazy, rust!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    79

    Ok it's driving me crazy, rust!

    Gentlemen, i finally put my cars together and within a week the axles are rusted and this is before i race them. What can i do and buy to get rid of it and especially keep it away. Thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    I have the same problem with Rust on some of my cars (has to do with living on the bank of a river). The best thing I have found is that after ANY soldering, rinse the car in water and blow it dry with compressed air. Then spray a coat of WD40 on it and put it in the box. Unfortunately, that doesn't completely stop it for me, but it does slow it down.
    Gary Johnson

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Umatilla, Fl
    Posts
    1,199
    A lot of the rust can be attributed to the use of liquid flux - muriatic acid - that we use. When you put the flux on a part to solder, then hit it with a hot soldering iron, it boils, turns into a gas and anything on the work area gets a fine coating of muriatic acid on it. This is what is causing the rust.

    When you get done working, if you clean the work in baking soda and warm water, then drop it in a bath of WD-40, the rust will never happen.

    Works for me.
    Florida Slotter, aka Marty Stanley,
    A "Double 60's" Slot Racer
    Killer X Raceways Team Racer

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Wesley Chapel, FL.
    Posts
    1,385

    Thumbs up



    I have a Tupperwear, closeing lid, that is 3 in. deep and I use water & baking soda to nutralise the acid. Spray with PURE & dry. I still get rust but not much. In the Turbo Flex days. I did it after soldering in the motor so I got the acid that got under the motor. Shoulda seen the chassis I didn't clean after 2 weeks....F-UGLY

    OLPHRT
    PHIL I.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    79
    fl_slotter
    I want to sincerely thank you for what I believe you told me is the fact of how rust results from using liquid flux but my problem is on the rear axles. I put cars together, let them sit in my slot car box and within one to two weeks they look like an ad for "This is what a rusted slot car axle looks like". It's pitiful!!!. Is it me or the quality of axle I purchase? I just get regular average priced axles. Now I will admit that I do have a procedure I do to my axles. I polish my axles with a premium grade rubbing compound designed to remove medium to heavy oxidation & scratches from cars. Is this what i am doing wrong? Please let me know if it is and what to do instead. Thank you.
    AL.B.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Victorville, CA
    Posts
    1,725
    Al,

    Even if you don't solder around the axle, some rust will accrue just from contact with your hands. If you have swaety palms, its worse. The procedures outlined above will work on skin acids also, but I see more and more racers using latex or nitrile gloves lately. The polishing compound is probably OK.

    As far as assembling cars a week or more before you run them goes, just running them will help avoid rust because of the oils used and tossed about from lubing the bushings or bearings. Myself, I rarely had the luxury of time to build early. I think maybe a clean and freshly assembled car is a happy car...
    A clean slotcar is a happy slotcar!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    110
    I learned a good way to neutralize the acid from PA Watson. Use a Q-tip or a rag and spit on it, then wipe the area area were you soldered.
    John Batson

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Victorville, CA
    Posts
    1,725
    John,

    Been doing that for YEARS, but its only a short term solution. We go thru 1 or 2 500 packs of q-tips a month here at BOW. Great for cleaning after magnet glues, paints, brush dust, etc.
    A clean slotcar is a happy slotcar!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    After I finish a build useing Q tips to clean flux areas i wipe it down with an oil rage and put the car in a plastic bag that the bodies come in keeps them nice even spring steel chassis
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NorthWesterner now in Philippines
    Posts
    9,523
    I wish I'd thought about doing that 4 months ago, before I left for the Philippines.

    I wonder how much solid rusty slot cars & parts go for on ePay???

    Maybe I can get Jim & Craig to hose down my slot boxes with WD-40 for me...
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    Paul Kassens
    OWH Slot Car Talk "Mom"
    The Old Weird Herald
    email: paulk@oldweirdherald.com

    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    917
    Cryovac sealing. LOL...... you see many different ways to skin the cat. I myself will set the car up with a axle then oil everything down and seal in a zip-lockwhen I have time to prepare ahead. If I have installed the mill I hose everything down in Naptha and then follow with 91% rubbing alchol.I follow that with lightly oiling, except for the motors. Them I hose down with the naptha and follow with alchol and oil the bearings. Oh and I do use the wife's sea-a-meal for long term storage. It helps.
    [COLOR="Black"]TEAM ACES AND 8's http://f2000.us/[/url]

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    9
    Grab some of these http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-FOUR-Hydroso...item45f7589ac8 and put your cars in one of those plastic boxes with a lid with the silica boxes in there. After they are clean of all acids of course. These are reusable, follow the directions on package and they are good as new.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    190
    My approach, first off I only use liquid acid flux when I really need it, ie a pinnion or in costruction, when I have to solder something that has never been soldered before. Most others when I am just resoldering I use a much less corosive paste. After using liquid flux things get washed carefully.

    I have a glass jar with kerosene with a little brush that I use for area,s where I have just soldered. I guess with wing cars and coblat magnets a lot of care need to be taken to stop rust developing under magnets.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    lake of the ozarks missouri
    Posts
    58
    I have that fogging oil used in the marine industry for winterizing all marine engines is the best way after a fresh build to keep the rust monster at bay... after a good wipedown with a base of somesort ie. Baking soda with water or just plain naptha/coleman. The oil is awesome for humid areas. We live on the lake so its humid must of the warm season. Paul you are probably happy your gear isn't with you I hear the hunidity is a real killer

    Hope that helps
    Anthony Giorgione
    Super Sonic Speedway
    573-480-1099
    Check us out on facebook.

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