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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #1486
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnalias View Post
    the guys who lent you the controller name is gene a very cool guy
    Oh great, thanks for responding, the whole thing was so annoying my head was spinning from that race. Please send him a million thanks from me. And the funniest thing about it was, I honestly could not tell the difference between the controllers!!! His was set perfectly, and if it wasn't, I'd have no idea of how to adjust it. So, that was really lucky! Now I need to find a fuse....I hope it isn't some weird sized British fuse....research to do. Thanks again Gene and Johnalias
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  2. #1487
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    Jun 2007
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    179
    Hey we use 6inch nails for fuses here!!! 100 pages, fantastic, congratulations from all the editorial staff at Slot Car Racing News

  3. #1488
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    This should be a fun continuation of our discussions. This is one project for the upcoming USRA Scale Nats, a motor for the GTP class.


    DSCN4422 by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    That's a new Pro Slot S16C arm, 45* .550" diameter (I'll be breaking it in on the track, then having it reconditioned and ground to .540" for USRA legality) in a Cahoza "Production" set up. Note the .450" magnet length and the armature stack length is .490". Any suggestions of where to go from here?

    Initially I'd say one way to go is put the arm in my Unimat and machine away the aluminum spacer on the pinion side of the arm, remove about .020". The idea would be to center the stacks in the magnets VISUALLY.

    The question is, how important is it to center the magnets (visually)? Isn't it more important that the arm center itself in the magnetic field?

    The comm spacing is really good as it is right now, but it could move .020" towards the pinion end if need be. I did put a set of brushes and springs in it and ran it at 2 volts noticing where the arm wanted to go. Actually, it didn't seem to pull hard in any direction, but if anything it almost pulled a bit towards the endbell!! I don't know enough about how electric motors work to know how all of this plays out.

    Another idea uses a new Cahoza UL can and a choice of two magnet sets where I can put the magnet position where I want it to be. The two magnet sets are Cahoza T5s and a set of Koford Radially oriented .500" long magnets. Obviously the Kofords length matches the length of the arm stacks, but is that necessarily important??? I'm kind of tempted to Koford glue in the Koford radials and try the motor like that. If it doesn't run well, I can easily knock them out and replace with the T5s.

    Ideas are welcome!!! I haven't built one of these, it is out of my area of experience.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  4. #1489
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    Quote Originally Posted by patraceruk View Post
    Hey we use 6inch nails for fuses here!!! 100 pages, fantastic, congratulations from all the editorial staff at Slot Car Racing News
    Thanks Pat, how did we get to 100 pages already? I'll head over to Berkeley Hardware at lunch and pick up some of those 6 inch nails
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  5. #1490
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    Does this fuse look familiar to anyone, something readily available?

    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #1491
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Pine, AZ
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    George, center the magnets to the arm stacks. you will get better proformanace from the motor.
    Steve
    ParmaPSE
    3rd Eye Technology

  7. #1492
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    Jun 2002
    Location
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    Gtp

    What track will GTP be raced on??. George, if the race is on the king track. I don't think that motor, would be your best choice flat track yes.

    Steve
    ParmaPSE
    3rd Eye Technology

  8. #1493
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    701
    Automotive mini blade fast acting fuse, $1.99 at Radio Shack. I would imagine most auto part stores will carry them as well.

  9. #1494
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    New Jersey
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    Quote Originally Posted by slotcar racer View Post
    does this fuse look familiar to anyone, something readily available?

    you can get them at any automotive store
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
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    www.TheISrausa.com

  10. #1495
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    Apr 2011
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    Cleveland, TN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forsyth Racing View Post
    What track will GTP be raced on??. George, if the race is on the king track. I don't think that motor, would be your best choice flat track yes.

    Steve
    GTP is supposed to be on the Testarossa, LMP will be on the King.

    Gary has had good results from S16C, but not sure he wants to give up all his findings before the race
    Alan Ingram

  11. #1496
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    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
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    George,

    I shortened the spacer on the pinion side when I built my motor. I just used my magnahone arm facer. It took a LONG time! And yes, the mags are shorter than the stacks on mine. I might just have to try a set of the Koford .500" long mags. They would definitely be more traditional as to stack length to magnet length. But the motor didn't seem to mind! I've built two of them this way and they both worked well.

    I remember Curt at SHS used to have an end mill with a 2mm hole in the center to face the spacers on Arm shafts. I would love to find out how that was made!
    Gary Johnson

  12. #1497
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forsyth Racing View Post
    George, center the magnets to the arm stacks. you will get better proformanace from the motor.
    Steve
    Hi Steve! Hope you're well my friend. Which magnets would you use? T5s or the Koford radials? We're running GTP on the flat track at the Nats. LMP is now a hand out motor class on the King track, amateurs and experts mixed.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  13. #1498
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearBear View Post
    George,

    I shortened the spacer on the pinion side when I built my motor. I just used my magnahone arm facer. It took a LONG time! And yes, the mags are shorter than the stacks on mine. I might just have to try a set of the Koford .500" long mags. They would definitely be more traditional as to stack length to magnet length. But the motor didn't seem to mind! I've built two of them this way and they both worked well.

    I remember Curt at SHS used to have an end mill with a 2mm hole in the center to face the spacers on Arm shafts. I would love to find out how that was made!
    Thanks Gary, it's the most simple solution for sure. I think I have just made my plan. I'll put the S16C on the Unimat and CAREFULLY (as in, do not touch the arm shaft with the tool!!!!!) shorten the pinion end alum spacer .020" so it centers in that UL Production set up and test it. I will also use Koford glue and put the .500"L Koford radials in the new UL can and give that a try. Results will follow as usual. Thanks for the tips Gary.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  14. #1499
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Pine, AZ
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    I would try the Kofords, but I don't use the big arm. All of our arm's are 513 to 515dia 533 hole 45to50degree timing. They have been very fast on Flat tracks and King tracks.
    Things are good long story. but i'm back to help Jonathan, again.
    Steve
    ParmaPSE
    3rd Eye Technology

  15. #1500
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    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
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    George,

    If you do that, put the bushing you took out of the can in your drill chuck on the tail stock to support the end of the shaft while cutting the spacer. Should be a relatively simple process to cut down the spacer. I didn't do it that way as my lathes are in the garage and I was in the office when building the motor at 2am. I didn't feel like going out in the rain to get to the garage!
    Gary Johnson

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