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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #1666
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    Quote Originally Posted by backintheslot View Post
    SCR, You may wish to add "slot" in between NORCAL and junkie. It just reads better for the kiddies!

    Have a blast down there.
    Good call Big Guy, I'm on it. By the way, incredible barbecue coming up shortly, Jim Langdon fired up a big barbie.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  2. #1667
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    Feb 2005
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    Chesapeake, Va.
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    George
    I had a 3000 sq ft building with a Tunkel King and a John Ford 70ft POS that I had professionally redone correctly by a local cabinet maker/woodworker. It was a little flat track and he performed magic on it. I was open for a short time in the early 1990s. If you got some time one of these days I'll tell you why I closed. Good luck racing this weekend. Looking forward to your body evaluations. Fred
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  3. #1668
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Freddie View Post
    George
    I had a 3000 sq ft building with a Tunkel King and a John Ford 70ft POS that I had professionally redone correctly by a local cabinet maker/woodworker. It was a little flat track and he performed magic on it. I was open for a short time in the early 1990s. If you got some time one of these days I'll tell you why I closed. Good luck racing this weekend. Looking forward to your body evaluations. Fred
    Oh boy Fred, you had a Tunkel track, that couple did great work. My place was built in '92 and I bought it "turnkey". Had three Tunkels, King Cobra, 181' Hillclimb, and the 140' MTT style road course. Beautifully built tracks. I'll PM you with my phone number.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  4. #1669
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    Let's just say for me, the LMP race was a, uh, learning experience! Actually, some good learning. My seventh heat on blue I had one off and did 35 laps, last lane purple was perfect and 36 laps. Heat #1 on black was decent. But yellow and orange were absurd disasters...two heats with many unforced errors and hitting a few cars. My mistake was a miscalculation of tire choice. In practice the track really tightened up so I tried a pair of treated Piranha. It was great on orange before the race and on black in heat 1. On yellow Chakires complained about looseness and I could see what he was talking about only worse. I thought orange would be better but it was worse!!! Back to regular rubber the rest of the race and it was very good. Happy with the last two heats...next is GT12...regular rubber too!!!!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  5. #1670
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    Yeah, I guess I learned enough to win the GT12 race, but I think mainly because racing buddy Chris Chakires got into an "awesome" wreck shearing off his guide. Chris was on a tear as always...damn he is a fast driver. Then there was Crash Codger, but he too exceeded the speed limit for this particular race collecting a number of other entrant's cars. My real competition was local hot shoe Kevin "KMAC" McSomething (sorry Kevin , not sure which Scottish clan you derive from). Like me, KMAC drove a pace that kept his fenders on and high lap totals. He led the race until just the last two heats

    Today I used my Mack Bulldog 3 with no weight. For some unexplained reason it was just more stable that way. Incidentally this is the same set up I've used for the LMP body tests. Love those Bulldogs.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #1671
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Jeff, funny you should ask that question as Hermanator and I were discussing how to limit chassis movement a few days ago. My own driving style prefers less movement in general. Being a production chassis, there should be no modifications to the chassis....to me this means no soldered on parts that create an X25 Frankenstein. Once you start adding or subtracting from a flexi chassis it leads to a slippery slope of modifications. I only bend the parts, use tape and/or lexan bulletproofing, and/or lead weight. I believe it's better to be creative with what you're given rather than being creative with additional modifications.

    I'm sure you've worked with the X25/C11 combination, Jeff, and you will recall that the first thing about it is the pans hang very low...that's because the X25 does not have those awful two bumps where the crossbar sits. That's perhaps the biggest improvement I can think of. I've found it takes at least .010" lexan bullet proofing to raise the crossbar to the proper level.

    Hopefully not to contradict what I said in the first paragraph, I think you can try different diameter crossbars, and more important, cut to different lengths. I prefer a crossbar that is so long, it almost eliminates movement...just leaves a little side movement, maybe .007" or so.

    Of course, to make the pans hang straight (if not addressed, they will droop down outwardly) you need to do some tedious bending of the small front forks. It has to bend up, and then the fork needs to be bent back down...it's an "S" shaped bend and really hard to do on the .030" pans....I use a vise to get a good grip. The .025" forks are very easy to adjust. When the fork is raised enough, then the pans are mechanically held flat.

    The other adjustment is being sure the little tongues that sit on top of the front winglets are flat...not pointing up or down at an angle relative to the flat winglet. I try to get all these pieces to slide nicely against eachother without any odd angles which will cause uneven movement. I want the pan to slide forward to rear nice and flat. I do not restrict this forward/rear movement at all, I think it is helpful. But I do make the crossbar longer to restrict the side to side movement in the rear, and I also try to restrict up and down movement as much as possible.

    For you, this may be completely wrong in terms of your driving style, but there may be some concepts in this you can use.
    One thing I tried but have yet to come to a conclusion on for limiting movement with C11 pans was to solder the front pin tube right across the pans (long lin tube soldered to both pans). Is this what you mean by a X25 Frankenstein? You could also use the front axle holes, might even work better as they are in front of the front forks.

    The thing I liked about this configuration was that you could quickly adjust the pan movement by soldering one side in a little more. When using the X25 pan, it's difficult to stick in the little bulletproof on the front vertical tabs to limit movement!
    Phil Matthews

  7. #1672
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Just finished up LMP #3, this one the X25 with .030" Cheetah pans, Cahoza ex-production set up with Camen balanced Pro Slot Super Wasp arm. Mounted a fresh new Red Fox Audi R10. Lots of paint on the bottom of the chassis from the new lane striping on the Fresno flat track...I'm thinking of adding 1-2 .005" spacers, but the car was really good last Saturday.
    The 0.005" spacers, are they metal? If so where did you get them? The only 5 thou spacers I have are the Teflon ones and they go all funky in a very short time...
    Phil Matthews

  8. #1673
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    Quote Originally Posted by pilmat View Post
    One thing I tried but have yet to come to a conclusion on for limiting movement with C11 pans was to solder the front pin tube right across the pans (long lin tube soldered to both pans). Is this what you mean by a X25 Frankenstein? You could also use the front axle holes, might even work better as they are in front of the front forks.

    The thing I liked about this configuration was that you could quickly adjust the pan movement by soldering one side in a little more. When using the X25 pan, it's difficult to stick in the little bulletproof on the front vertical tabs to limit movement!
    Phil, when I call an idea a Frankenstein, I guess you could say I am basically calling it a monster. If I was tech director, I would call a soldered full length pin tube a chassis modification, and I would also say such a tube may only be "floating"....NOT soldered. Soldered individual tubes OK. It's an idea that would be sure to give tech directors fits.

    That said, the best way to limit movement using a floating tube is to make the retainers push outward as far as you want. This is how I limit front lateral side movement.

    Oh, on your other question I use .005" Teflon spacers. You're right, they are delicate. It I replace them frequently myself.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  9. #1674
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    Jun 2009
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    New Jersey
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    We have been using the front floating body mount on our g-10 x-25's and our b-pro x-25 with great success for a good while now. We also use the larger OD brass with the .032 ID rather than the thinner stuff it just seem to bend and bind to easily
    Motors By Mic B
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  10. #1675
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    Jun 2002
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    Fall City, WA
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    Phil,

    In my testing of the variations of X25. I have found that the 3 piece .030 pans are usually the best for the flat track. But the .025 pans worked great on the Mid America King at the Nats. If you have to run front tires, locking the pans together with a front axle would never be noticed and would be legal IMHO.

    I don't think the difference in weight between the 1 piece X25 pans and the 2 piece .030 pans is what makes the car handle better. I truly believe the benefit comes from the extra movement. Also, I have found that having floating pin tubes also makes the cars handle better. Especially in the X25 x .025" scenario.

    I limit movement by tweaking the tabs that hold down the pans and tweaking the tabs on the front of the pans that ride on the front wings. I've also been known to use tape to slow down movement on the pans. This is easily removed during a race and is a quick way to change the handling of the car. I mostly did this with the TFlexes back in the day, but have also used it on my C11's.
    Gary Johnson

  11. #1676
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    Started working on the eurosport stuff for next Sunday at Frank's. On the Horky 1/24 I found one of the axle bearings was bad, got loose. When I unsoldered it the whole thing fell apart! I need to study that gear side bearing to see why it is failing, same one that seized up a couple of months ago. I'll open up the bearing hole to be sure it isn't a press fit, just that small amount of distortion could be binding it. Anyway, time to install a new pair of bearings on Mr. Horky.

    I pulled the Valiko 84.5 out of the Voki 18 mag and put it into the Mystery Set Up. Then took the 22t25 out of Mystery and put it into the Voki 18 mag. It's all about musical chairs. Pull arms, load arms, pull motors, load motors.....

    I also want to rebuild my Mack eurosport chassis this week using parts from the Mack Open 12 chassis. The Open 12 has the same front hinge parts as the Bulldog 3, sideways sliders...and it's interchangable with the eurosport. I also need to replace the rear body mount piece on the eurosport and again, I can use the parts from the Open 12, same parts. I am really interested to see how the front slider works on the eurosport chassis. Oh yeah, I also need to solder in the weights on the front of the eurosport, that may help with the sudden unloading...too light up front, too much bite. Should be an interesting session on Sunday. Also racing GT12 with the USRA LMP bodies. I might run a body a heat for more assessment, it's a practice race.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  12. #1677
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    Feb 2011
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    Hey George Congrats on the gt12 win down in fresno,for me I missed the right setup for it and ended up 16th what did you use for guide washers on yours mind I ask?!?! Thanks Greg
    2011/2012 Nascar SCRA Champion
    2011/2012 SCRA Champion
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  13. #1678
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bugboy209 View Post
    Hey George Congrats on the gt12 win down in fresno,for me I missed the right setup for it and ended up 16th what did you use for guide washers on yours mind I ask?!?! Thanks Greg
    Thanks Greg, sorry it didn't go as well for you, but it looked like you had a few good heats. I just copied Fred's guide set up, about .025" clearance up front. Much more than I am used to, but I needed that much clearance especially for the red lane. See you at Modesto in February!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  14. #1679
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    Feb 2011
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    Manteca,CA
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    286
    So no more norcal races for you til then George?!?!?!
    2011/2012 Nascar SCRA Champion
    2011/2012 SCRA Champion
    Sandbag Motorsports......always keep them guessing!!!
    https://m.facebook.com/Sandbagmotorsports?ref=bookmark
    ProSlot LTD
    Third Eye Technology

  15. #1680
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sacto,Ca
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    202
    Hey Greg! He is on Eddies' list of fifty, myself included. Actually I think he is self exiled, but it doesn't matter as Eddie hasn't done anything about his lack of power after twenty seconds of running on the king. Gus in Sacto

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