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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #1726
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    New Zealand
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    Back bone all twisted

    George
    I am intrigued with the center rail stiffener, is that a twist drill bit (pic DSCN4491) and if so what is your reason for using bit, instead of wire?

  2. #1727
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    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearBear View Post
    George,

    What is your method for removing the solder? I've never had much luck with doing that.
    Gary, I'm pretty sure there are other techniques to remove solder than mine, but I use my own method and it seems to work OK for stuff like this. I just hold a toothbrush in the same hand I am holding the soldering iron with the brush right next to the soldering tip. I hit the area with the iron and as quickly as possible brush away the excess solder. To clean out the rectangle holes, I just use an exacto knife and pretend I am a dentist scraping away plaque. Final removal of solder I use a silicon polishing wheel on Mr. Dremel....got a good supply of these at a jewelry supply store in downtown Seattle last time I was up there.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  3. #1728
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    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gill A View Post
    George
    I am intrigued with the center rail stiffener, is that a twist drill bit (pic DSCN4491) and if so what is your reason for using bit, instead of wire?
    Gill, you must be referring to the .015" wire wrapped around the end of the center spine? That's all it is, just some fine piano wire to reinforce that solder joint.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  4. #1729
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Last night it didn't take much time to get the Horky's rear crossbar stops resoldered. I turn the chassis upside down and apply a small amount of acid flux to the bottoms of the rectangles which have the parts inserted. Then I hit it from the bottom with silver solder and it gets sucked up through to the top of the part, does a nice job of securing those little parts to the pans.


    Untitled by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    The only thing remaining in finishing this job is putting the rear pins back in....these are crucial in adjusting the height of the pans. I prefer to make the pans even with the bottom of the center section. I've gone over this before about 50 pages or so ago, but you can supposedly get really tricky and make your pans hang down low for those shorter three minute heats. Then you can raise them up a bit for the semi with the four minute heats, and finally raise em up even or possibly slightly above for the main....that's the one where you are racing Horky himself haaa haaa haaaa Yeah, right. Anyway, I just like to adjust it for even or slightly above so there is no pan dragging. To do this, I turn it upside down and put two tabs of .010" lexan bulletproofing at the ends of the pans.


    Untitled by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    Untitled by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    Next I have a 1/16" piece of pin tubing with a little crimp in it....this is to hold the .032" rear pin so it is easy to get in just the right position....here is what it looks like with the shims under the pans, and the pin tube/pin assembly held in place.....note: you want the pin to be at the bottom of the rear slot.....there is a vertical slot for the pins to ride up and down, putting the pin at the bottom is what will hold the pans up level with the chassis.


    Untitled by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    And so here we have it with both pins soldered in place....


    Untitled by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    But wait, it ain't over yet....better put the chassis on the block and carefully lift by the pillow blocks and observe to make sure the pans and the center section come up all together. To make fine adjustments, just put your crimped pin tube back on the pin(s) and hit with the soldering iron.


    Untitled by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    For the final step, I like to take a toothbrush with some Fast Orange pumice hand cleaner on it and gently clean the whole chassis....gives it quite a nice even finish....then oil it and put it away in a ziploc bag until you need it.


    Untitled by svtgeorge, on Flickr
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  5. #1730
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    starting 2 new builds a bull dog 3 set up a little different then the last 1 jigged for 7/40 2* gear so motor goes in flatter the chassis is so good with a 16* gear thought a 2* and motor moved back would make it even better .the second build is an x-25
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  6. #1731
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    351

    all twisted

    Thanks George, I must admit I thought it strange even though I did check the image on all three computers.
    Turns out an optical illusion.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #1732
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    Hermanator just stopped in to help put the network together on the computers, he drank a cup of coffee and something weird happened....


    Photo on 12-17-11 at 12.46 PM by svtgeorge, on Flickr
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  8. #1733
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Paonia, Colorado
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    SR,

    I like the idea of using a toothbrush to remove solder. I usually use the desoldering wick from Radio Shack (which most recently does not have as much flux in it as it used to). Works OK, not fabulous, so I'll try the toothbrush.

    Greg

  9. #1734
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
    Posts
    155
    SR-
    Is that an open 12 Horky? Mine does not have the "weights" in front of the motor box like yours seems to have- Or is it just a "Pre-Chicago" edition?
    Bert

    Asking all things relevant-

  10. #1735
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    Jan 2011
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    Richmond, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berteinstein View Post
    SR-
    Is that an open 12 Horky? Mine does not have the "weights" in front of the motor box like yours seems to have- Or is it just a "Pre-Chicago" edition?
    Bert

    Asking all things relevant-
    Yes Professor Einstein, that is a Horky 12 I worked on. It's in a box being returned to its proper owner on Monday via USPS. Said owner uses this as a 1/24 Eurosport and says it works really well. As for weights, not sure I am seeing any weights on his Open 12 chassis....of course the motor box is a lot bigger than the cobalt version, but otherwise is much the same.

    Speaking of the Horky (my own now), I made it back to Frank's this afternoon to try it with my Bob Budge Pro 2 Copy. You may recall the Dr Verdo Speedshop controller was pressed into duty for last week's NORCAL Eurosport Club race, and with the Horky it really lacked brakes. Howard installed FET brakes on my Budgie, so I really needed to get back and try the Horky with the increased braking reserve. Headed north towards Frank's about 12:30 this afternoon, a 44 mile one way drive. Going up US 101 past Novato, then passed the public landfill and by some scenic farm land when suddenly I started thinking about controllers, and simultaneously realized I had done it again, left the Budgie at home. Made a U Turn on 101 and headed back.....28 miles into the trip....anyway, got to Frank's around 1:30 eventually. I have a new P&P...."leave the Budgie IN THE CAR" no need to bring it inside the house. Finally got to try the Horky with the FET brakes and it was fine now. Dropped it down to 3.13 on yellow on tall tires. This is the Mystery set up with the Valiko 18t24.5 arm....this thing really moves. On the other hand, the Piero with a lowly 23t25 Gulliver also turned 3.20 flat....not that much slower, seven one hundredths....so, go figure. It just doesn't seem like radically hotter motors really make a whole lot of difference.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  11. #1736
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
    Posts
    155
    Dropped it down to 3.13 on yellow on tall tires. This is the Mystery set up with the Valiko 18t24.5 arm....this thing really moves. On the other hand, the Piero with a lowly 23t25 Gulliver also turned 3.20 flat....not that much slower, seven one hundredths....so, go figure. It just doesn't seem like radically hotter motors really make a whole lot of difference.
    Was the track "grippier" than when we had the Nor-Cal Eurosport "meeting"? I was having a little trouble getting the Piero to hook up on that day- But those are quite interesting times- If it was "race day" what car would you have run? .07 seconds does not seem like a lot, but you better believe I would go with the car that was .07 seconds faster (assuming all things equal). We just need to hook up with Ferrari and use a little of their daily R&D budget money, and I bet we could find those missing .03 seconds-

    Bert
    PS. Oh those "weights" I was talking about are attached to the front of the motor box (the little worm looking things).

    .... I had done it again, left the Budgie at home...
    I think we have all been here before!
    Last edited by Berteinstein; 12-18-2011 at 09:22 PM. Reason: forgot to mention the controller being forgot
    Asking all things relevant-

  12. #1737
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    564
    Sounds like a checklist before leaving is in order.
    Tools check
    Box check
    Tires check
    Controller check
    Chassis check
    Motors check
    Body's check
    Light check
    Magnifiers check
    Wallet check
    Why do I do this to myself?

  13. #1738
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    179
    A special list for George
    Hand controller check
    hand controller check
    hand controller check
    hand controller check

  14. #1739
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berteinstein View Post
    Was the track "grippier" than when we had the Nor-Cal Eurosport "meeting"? I was having a little trouble getting the Piero to hook up on that day- But those are quite interesting times- If it was "race day" what car would you have run? .07 seconds does not seem like a lot, but you better believe I would go with the car that was .07 seconds faster (assuming all things equal). We just need to hook up with Ferrari and use a little of their daily R&D budget money, and I bet we could find those missing .03 seconds-

    Bert
    PS. Oh those "weights" I was talking about are attached to the front of the motor box (the little worm looking things).



    I think we have all been here before!
    Bert, track felt the same as last week except I did all my practice on red last week. As earlier reported, I ran 3.60 flat with all three cars on red in practice. I did not go down to yellow last week. Subjectively, the Horky with the allie comm armature felt really good last week, but as reported earlier not enough brakes with the Speedshop controller. Yesterday's long drive yielded the Budgie with FET brakes and the Horky was really sweet. I believe the difference between the Horky and Big Piero was Horky was doing 3.1s over and over again, 3.13, 3.18, 3.15, etc whereas the 3.20 for Big was the best time....it was mostly running 3.2s all day...Vegas was watching it and I got that comment from him.

    Drove to "work" this morning, Budgie enjoyed the drive, he's in the back seat on the floor.

    P.S. now I finally see what is meant by "weights" on the Horky Open 12....not sure what the heck that is all about, but I know for sure that Vladimir put in tons of testing time with the big lump in back and found it works best with the "Worms"
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  15. #1740
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by patraceruk View Post
    A special list for George
    Hand controller check
    hand controller check
    hand controller check
    hand controller check
    I'll print this out Pat.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

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