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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #166
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    Just finished 3 cahoza builds 1 12 1 sw 1 cont the 12 and sw have to come apart looks like the brand new slick 7 bearings are bad .My racer will just have to pay me for my bearings at 1/2 the cost. back to the bench
    I get my bearings from Dave Liebenthal. Great quality, even better price. Slotcar Racer, The Pricer. Gotta go home.

  2. #167
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    ohio
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    942

    Please give Les Wright a jingle.

    I have tried every offshore/asian bearing on the market and the genuine GRW in the blister package is the only bearing that will give you the expected performance and life for the money.
    You will not be unhappy and the results will be evident after you install the first one.
    " A little less whining and a little more driving should cure the problem "
    Ronald R. Van Wagnen

  3. #168
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
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    George I also get my c can bearing from Dave and have for a few years
    Ron I do use grw bearings in my euro motors and your right wouldn't use any other bearing in a euro motor but c cans are just fine with Dave L bearings haven't got a bad 1 yet
    The friend I'm building for had all the bearings from his tracks stock.Which closed its doors about 1 week ago.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  4. #169
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    Jun 2009
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    home nursing a cold had a chance to work on the 12 and s wasp motors it turns out its not the bearings but something with the arms. when you rev them at about 6 volts they shake and you see the arm jump then it seems to smooth out a bit.bad balance out of round what do you think?Cut com on 12 it was alittle coned but not to bad.the 12 moves so much the arm hits 1 stack on magnet put different arm in set up and its fine.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  5. #170
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Land of Excitement "Bensenville"
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    1,326
    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    home nursing a cold had a chance to work on the 12 and s wasp motors it turns out its not the bearings but something with the arms. when you rev them at about 6 volts they shake and you see the arm jump then it seems to smooth out a bit.bad balance out of round what do you think?Cut com on 12 it was alittle coned but not to bad.the 12 moves so much the arm hits 1 stack on magnet put different arm in set up and its fine.
    When was the last time they where balanced.

    Also did they happen to ever spin a pinion. That can put a arm out of balance really fast if it is over revved.

    I would also check the arm on a run out gauge to make sure the shaft is not bent.

    Mike
    Michael Mazur
    Ruzam Racing
    Team ProSlot

  6. #171
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    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    Sorry to hear you aren't feeling so hot today Mic. Last night I almost finished Hermantor's Tazer GT12. That chassis is quite an easy build. For the motor I used the UL can, PS endbell kit (best buy), Koford mags and a Koford G12 arm balanced by Beuf. One thing I noticed was the Champion red springs look different. The Champion lights have always had a red material of some kind that usually comes off pretty easily, almost like some kind of paint that makes the springs look nice and red when they are displayed on the header card, but after you use them a while all the brightness wears off (but they still work fine). The springs I used last night for Hermantor's mill looked and felt very different to me. For one thing, the red does not look painted, it looks more like a metal coating of some kind, a dye, or even a sort of anodyzed look. Also, the spring material itself did not feel as springy as older pairs. I am wondering if they changed them....has anybody else noticed this? It's the first time I've seen the springs like this. They are almost imposter Champion springs. I've been trying the Cahoza three coils springs and they seem OK, but the Champion light has always been the best spring for C Can motors in my opinion. Any other experiences out there to verify what I saw last night? Anyway, I should have that GT12 finished tonight and I can get going on rebuilding his two eurosport motors.....one for the 2010 Mack prototype and the other for Horky's 2009 winning chassis he bought from Tony Sr. at the Worlds. Gotta go now...

  7. #172
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    127
    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    George
    I have a .540 dia BOW 12 45 degree and it ran the same way you disscribed ran it in a couple of setups and same thing sent it out for balancing and its better but not great.would like to hear your progress with it
    Measure the O.D. on the three stacks and make sure they are the same. Grinding 0.020" off a 0.560" blank to 0.540" requires a serious grinder and you will get different measurements without one. Bring the arm up to the ISRA race this weekend and we will O.D. grind it as you need to be doing with euro arms whenever they are reconditioned. It does no harm to do this with 12 and contender arms as well.

    Bill

  8. #173
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    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
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    Quote Originally Posted by mazur50 View Post
    When was the last time they where balanced.

    Also did they happen to ever spin a pinion. That can put a arm out of balance really fast if it is over revved.

    I would also check the arm on a run out gauge to make sure the shaft is not bent.

    Mike
    Mike the arms are new out of the package . it looks like nthe stacks are out. Will pull them apart and take bill up on his offer.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  9. #174
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    535
    Mr SR Sir-

    back to the tazer.....what size rear tires are you using with the non adjustable pillow blocks?
    thx.mk

  10. #175
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    Mike, it looks like the nonadjustables are for a 42 Tooth, 72 pitch 16* angle spur AKA a .670" tire.

  11. #176
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    so cal
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    Thank you. I built my first tazer that way but I guess I'm not used to running that small of a tire. It IS really hooked up though. The second tazer with taller tires not so much so. Might be worth it to change the axle height.

  12. #177
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    Jun 2009
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    New Jersey
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike K View Post
    Thank you. I built my first tazer that way but I guess I'm not used to running that small of a tire. It IS really hooked up though. The second tazer with taller tires not so much so. Might be worth it to change the axle height.
    Mike K .I have my tazer setup with the adjustable and set for 43t I start at .680 and car has been great throught 2 races. 1thing you can check is the spine on top of the center rail compare it to first chassis and ajust . I have some preload in it and I couldn't be happier with it .
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  13. #178
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    I got the Horky eurosport built up but had a lot of trouble with that motor. It's a regular Speedshop small block, looks like it used to be in a Speedshop chassis cuz it has a solder joint in the front and the back and the can tab is cut off. It's the PK arm in there that scares me, the stacks are peeling away at the corners and I can feel sharpness...I hope they don't lift and grenade the magnets. The motor for the Mack prototype, on the other hand, is an 18 mag Gulliver with Camen arm. I rebuilt it last night and put in a new can bearing and it really sounds sweet. The Gulliver class motors have a unique scream. That motor plugged into the Mack very nicely. Tonight all I need to do is get a couple of Audi R10s mounted on those two cars and our team will be ready for the races on Saturday at SCR. Better go now...

  14. #179
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    127
    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    I got the Horky eurosport built up but had a lot of trouble with that motor. It's a regular Speedshop small block, looks like it used to be in a Speedshop chassis cuz it has a solder joint in the front and the back and the can tab is cut off. It's the PK arm in there that scares me, the stacks are peeling away at the corners and I can feel sharpness...I hope they don't lift and grenade the magnets. The motor for the Mack prototype, on the other hand, is an 18 mag Gulliver with Camen arm. I rebuilt it last night and put in a new can bearing and it really sounds sweet. The Gulliver class motors have a unique scream. That motor plugged into the Mack very nicely. Tonight all I need to do is get a couple of Audi R10s mounted on those two cars and our team will be ready for the races on Saturday at SCR. Better go now...
    George,

    You will alleviate the movement of the lams on your PK arm if you have it O.D. ground each time you have it reconditioned. I learned from the Czech team at the Worlds this is standard procedure for their PK arms. They love their PK arms.

  15. #180
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    Bill, I'm not sure how touching up the arm stacks will help alleviate the movement. All I can see is it would knock off the tips of the bent out stack corners that are sticking up. Makes sense to do this and have it rebalanced, but it sure would be nice if the corners of the stacks didn't lift in the first place. I haven't seen it with Camen and Valiko arms which is what I mostly use. Actually I have a PK 19t25 right now that is really good, and this has not happened to the stacks. I've put quite a few runs on it too.

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