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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #1861
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    SR, what are your thoughts on excessive pan movement on GT-12 cars? I've been looking at the current state-of-the-art chassis and note how little pan movement they have (and you see pics that people limit the movement even more). What do you think the handling characteristic would be if you allowed the bans to really move around, especially at the back?
    Phil Matthews

  2. #1862
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    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by pilmat View Post
    SR, what are your thoughts on excessive pan movement on GT-12 cars? I've been looking at the current state-of-the-art chassis and note how little pan movement they have (and you see pics that people limit the movement even more). What do you think the handling characteristic would be if you allowed the bans to really move around, especially at the back?
    Phil, the only hard and fast answer I can give you is to experiment with big pan movement. I have tried things and have been surprised by both how good and how bad it works. A common thread in this thread is to make a change and test it. As a general THEORY, more movement makes the car more forgiving. Less movement makes the car tighter but the bad part about that can be chattering, or crazy unpredictable acrobatic stunts by the car. Looser car for tight track, tighter car for loose track. Try it and please post your results for our interest.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  3. #1863
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    Jun 2002
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    Fall City, WA
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    George,

    I got some of those tires for the last 24th Euro race. They made the car really loose! I should have removed the front weights, but drove the car as it was anyway. Next time I'll do some more tweaking.

    I know Lee was pretty upset about the rubber. I wonder if he found some good stuff!
    Gary Johnson

  4. #1864
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Phil, the only hard and fast answer I can give you is to experiment with big pan movement. I have tried things and have been surprised by both how good and how bad it works. A common thread in this thread is to make a change and test it. As a general THEORY, more movement makes the car more forgiving. Less movement makes the car tighter but the bad part about that can be chattering, or crazy unpredictable acrobatic stunts by the car. Looser car for tight track, tighter car for loose track. Try it and please post your results for our interest.
    I re-read my question and it was quite cryptic, LOL, let me try again. I have an AB Slotsport 2011 chassis that I REALLY struggled with. Like Multiracer says, it is WAY too bitey. Lou and I scratched our heads with it a bit but moved on to other projects before we got it to settle down. I was about to steal the guide nut off it when I left it down (wife called for some help). Getting back to my bench I picked up the chassis and had a think about what might help it. The biggest observation is that the cross bar allows MASSIVE up and down pan movement. I shoved a few pieces of bulletproof in here and there to see what I could put in to calm this down. Funny reading back through Andy's response on the other thread, I did exactly what he suggested (0.025" wire on the inside of the pans and across the top of the bar to the spine). Movement now feels on par with other cars (BD2, Mack OG12 and BS-10), but I'm wondering if it will increase bite (if so I can run 1/2 front o-ring wheels on this for rear tires!).

    Car is built and ready (medium firm tires on mag rims and a Rf Acura shoved way forward). Results to follow next Monday...
    Phil Matthews

  5. #1865
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    Quote Originally Posted by pilmat View Post
    I re-read my question and it was quite cryptic, LOL, let me try again. I have an AB Slotsport 2011 chassis that I REALLY struggled with. Like Multiracer says, it is WAY too bitey. Lou and I scratched our heads with it a bit but moved on to other projects before we got it to settle down. I was about to steal the guide nut off it when I left it down (wife called for some help). Getting back to my bench I picked up the chassis and had a think about what might help it. The biggest observation is that the cross bar allows MASSIVE up and down pan movement. I shoved a few pieces of bulletproof in here and there to see what I could put in to calm this down. Funny reading back through Andy's response on the other thread, I did exactly what he suggested (0.025" wire on the inside of the pans and across the top of the bar to the spine). Movement now feels on par with other cars (BD2, Mack OG12 and BS-10), but I'm wondering if it will increase bite (if so I can run 1/2 front o-ring wheels on this for rear tires!).

    Car is built and ready (medium firm tires on mag rims and a Rf Acura shoved way forward). Results to follow next Monday...
    Can't wait to see how it runs with those mods!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #1866
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    Jan 2011
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    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by GearBear View Post
    George,

    I got some of those tires for the last 24th Euro race. They made the car really loose! I should have removed the front weights, but drove the car as it was anyway. Next time I'll do some more tweaking.

    I know Lee was pretty upset about the rubber. I wonder if he found some good stuff!
    Gary, we'll have to wait for new rubber to come in. The company that distributes to everyone doesn't have it yet. It's the worst batch of rubber I have ever seen. Only good for practice. I watched Herman with his GT12 on yellow and it was a struggle just to run 4.0s. When he put a good pair of the old rubber on, instant 3.8s which is good. We bought a small batch of the awful rubber and I can only see using it for practice....maybe it'll be OK on an LMP at NORCAL. Next NORCAL race is Rocklin. It's a bad situation for sure and no relief in sight. I have enough tires for the Nats, but that's about it.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  7. #1867
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
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    1,364
    You are in better shape than me. I buy my tires over the counter so I rely on Lee and Alpha for good tires.
    Gary Johnson

  8. #1868
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Land of Excitement "Bensenville"
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    1,326
    That is why you always have to keep a good stock of Rubber on had and buy when you know it is good.

    I have learned first hand that you cant relay on there to always be good rubber. It happened right around the worlds in 2010 when there was a rubber shortage.

    MM
    Michael Mazur
    Ruzam Racing
    Team ProSlot

  9. #1869
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    The importer needs to lay a smack down on the Chinese manufacturer and tell them to get it right .I was told by 1 of the big buyers that he thinks its a ploy so they can raise the price. We shall see.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  10. #1870
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    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
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    Anyone try this space rubber go fast products is hyping ?Was wondering if it's called space rubber for the big pour's in it.lol
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  11. #1871
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    Jun 2002
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    Land of Excitement "Bensenville"
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    I heard since the Rubber has been in space it has made the cells in the foam collapse and make the rubber stay soft but give more traction.

    I am kidding.
    Michael Mazur
    Ruzam Racing
    Team ProSlot

  12. #1872
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    Jun 2002
    Location
    Paonia, Colorado
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    1,452
    SR,

    Do you use silver solder to solder in motors and for pinions, too? Personally, I use silver solder for chassis and cobalt pinions, but 60/40 for other pinions and all motors.

    Greg

  13. #1873
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    Jan 2011
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    Richmond, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg N View Post
    SR,

    Do you use silver solder to solder in motors and for pinions, too? Personally, I use silver solder for chassis and cobalt pinions, but 60/40 for other pinions and all motors.

    Greg
    Greg, I only use the rosin core stuff for leadwires...that's it. That one pound Radio Shack roll will probably last me until I pull the trigger the last time. The Dayton stuff is for everything else structural....all pinions, all motor mounts, all chassis building. The Dayton stuff is really easy to work with too.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  14. #1874
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    426
    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    The importer needs to lay a smack down on the Chinese manufacturer and tell them to get it right .I was told by 1 of the big buyers that he thinks its a ploy so they can raise the price. We shall see.
    I have been laid up for a couple of months...

    Anyone know if this junk rubber is being mounted, and sold as a finished product by tire suppliers? Or, is it just being sold as donuts?

    A price increase on tires is not good news...

    Tires are by far the biggest expense in my slot racing budget, particularly in classes (Retro) that specify tire minimums and clearances...

    And, wing car racers are spending $80 plus on tires for one main... Yikes

    LM

  15. #1875
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Greg, I only use the rosin core stuff for leadwires...that's it. That one pound Radio Shack roll will probably last me until I pull the trigger the last time. The Dayton stuff is for everything else structural....all pinions, all motor mounts, all chassis building. The Dayton stuff is really easy to work with too.
    The funny thing is that the Dayton stuff is really designed for electrical connections, the one thing you don't use it for!

    I use a good quality 60/40 rosin core with no troubles. But when my pound was finished, a friend gave me a 1/2 pound of another brand. Suddenly I'm having all kinds of problems (broken lead wire, cracked motor joints, cracked front axle mounts), when building customer cars this is disaster! So went and got another pound of the good stuff and poof, no more problems. This stuff is so good that when I forgot to finish soldering in the motor in my 12 (sorry Jerry), it still lasted the whole race with just a front tack!

    Good solder is good solder, but bad stuff is impossible to build good cars with. One thing I notice in the poorer solders is that it does not melt "shiny", rather it looks a bit mat and stays that way when cool. It flows a bit like mud too.
    Phil Matthews

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