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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #1966
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearBear View Post
    I know of no place where the mini can is legal for racing with 12 arms currently. Does your raceway allow these?

    As a general rule, you are going to run a pretty low gear ratio, somewhere around 7/43... I see no reason the mini motor would be geared any differently than a standard GT12.
    Gary, I don't think you were racing at Lee's place in Auburn, but we used to run a retro class that was basically a PDQ #47 chassis (used to be the best C-1 chassis) and Pro Slot mini can with X12 arms. I seem to remember we ran 8T pinions on those, but I could be wrong...again....That was a pretty good class except the bodies were old style so they didn't help the car with handling much.
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  2. #1967
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    Since SR already said he had no experience with mini motors this topic should be moved from here to its own thread and discussed there .I would be more then happy to discuss our findings in the Garden State Isra Series with the mini motors.
    Great suggestion Mic!
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  3. #1968
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    Quote Originally Posted by larrymatt View Post
    And I believe the entire car... body and chassis,was also in two pieces... LOL

    Mic: I would be interested in hearing your findings concerning mini motors in ISRA racing. Here, or in a separate thread...

    I would add that Tri-State ISRA runs the Falcons in JRL and B-Production... separate 'Light' classes, but often raced together with the C-cans. Fields in both classes are about even, and the Falcon classes have increased overall series participation. Not a bad thing...

    LM
    The car chop was in a different episode of my very short retro career....Feb 2008 at the North American Masters in Chicago. Same technique though, a Dremel cut off wheel and taking a lot of care to make a nice straight cut by scribing a line with a sharp scribe. I have to look for a photo, not sure where I put it....
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  4. #1969
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    GearBear
    The arms were almost new with about 50 warm up laps that I ran at Chicks. I rebuilt the motor and only put a light cut on the comm. Their still over .200 just like the BOW arms. By the way I switched the arms to the setups I had the BOW arms in and they still had the same problem.
    Quote Originally Posted by GearBear View Post
    Freddie,

    I would like to know how small the comm was on the two arms that you had problems with. In my experience, I don't see this problem until the comm has been cut to nearly the end of its life. This makes the brushes wrap farther around the comm and causes your situation. I don't think it has to do with the width of the stacks, but the diameter of the comm.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  5. #1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Freddie View Post
    Don't know if I asked you about this or not George. When we were at Philly I had 2 motors that wouldn't start on their own they needed a push almost every time I stopped the car. They were Proslot 540 Contender 45 degree arms in Red Fox cans with Camen magnets and Proslot endbells with PS hardware, SBF II brushes and Camen 5 coil springs (light). The motors were bored out to .560. I also had 2 other setups exactly the same but with BOW Contender .540 arms and they didn't have this trouble. When I got home I looked at the motors more carefully and noticed they were dead shorting between the brushes. I then narrowed the brushes to see if this made a difference. It did, the motor ran fine and never dead shorted again no matter how many times I turned it on and off. I noticed that another racer was having this problem at Philly (Mike Mazur) and he was also running Proslot arms. Maybe Mike could chime in on this issue to see if he cured the problem. Since I know narrow brushes cured the problem I just might run vertical hardware and brushes with these two arms. I also took what I thought were pertinent measurements on each armature. Here they are

    BOW Arm (.540) Dia .540 Crown width .360-.365 space between crown edges .155-.160
    PS Arm (.540) Dia .538 Crown width .345-.347 space between crown edges .178-.180

    What this showed me is that even though the setups were the same the wider crown of the Bow arm would not allow the arm to settle in such a way that a single crown segment would be spanning both the north and south magnet tips there by allowing the pos and neg brushes to contact the same com segment and creating the dead short. The narrower crown of the Proslot arm allowed this to happen almost every time it was stopped. After thinking about it for awhile I realized there could be another cure for this problem besides using vertical brushes. Using a setup that has north and south magnet tips that are closer together. Doing this would allow the smaller crown arm to act the same way. Some mechanical trickery. I sure would like to here if anyone else has had this problem and how they cured it.
    Fred, many thanks for posting this information. As my NORCAL season is progressing into race #5, some of my Pro Slot Super Wasp arms are aging to the point where the comm diameters are getting smaller. I have run into exactly this same problem you describe. In fact, there were a couple of motors at the Fresno race I had to pull out of cars during practice because they needed push starts. One of these motors I narrowed the brushes and it helped a little, but I would never race a motor that did this. I figure I can buy 5-6 Pro Slot C Can arms for every ONE Valiko eurosport arm I buy, so if they get to this point, they go into my junk box as retired.

    CRASH CODGER has mentioned the same thing and is trying the vertical hardware. I haven't gotten any reports of how that is working, but not sure that is even legal for our rules. Does any manufacturer make vertical hardware for C Cans? Does Koford? Anyway, my philosophy of running in a race is such that if I find an arm has too many comm cuts, it's history. I know it's hard to set aside an arm that technically still has some comm life left, but I just don't like jeopardizing my race efforts with this kind of life stretching effort.
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  6. #1971
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearBear View Post
    Freddie,

    I would like to know how small the comm was on the two arms that you had problems with. In my experience, I don't see this problem until the comm has been cut to nearly the end of its life. This makes the brushes wrap farther around the comm and causes your situation. I don't think it has to do with the width of the stacks, but the diameter of the comm.
    Gary, this morning before going to work I pulled the Super Wasp motor out of one of my LMPs....this is the motor where I tried narrowing the brushes. The thing still needs push start when I tried it at Frank's last Sunday....still a fast motor though. Anyway, the arm is getting retired. I'll measure the diameter and let you know what I get when I pull the arm tonight.
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  7. #1972
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    Mike
    None of the endbells in these setups are advanced and their all PS endbells with PS hardware. No magnet advance either. What caused your problems in Philly? I noticed your car was doing the same thing.
    Quote Originally Posted by mazur50 View Post
    I have also seen this happen with arm's have have to much timing. Make sure you have a neutral endbell and the magnets are in 90Deg to the brush hardware. You may have say a 47deg arm and could have 5deg advance in the magnets.

    Mike
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  8. #1973
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    SR
    what ever happen to that f-1 proto type Mack chassis have been thinking about building 1 and would like to here some thoughts as to which 1 to build I know you can't get the horky in kit form so that 1 is out I want to build it
    Mic, contact Richard Mack to ask him if that F1 chassis is available. I recommend it highly. I have that and a Horky and I have had trouble deciding which car I like better. They run very differently, need different driving input, but both cars are good. Right now I am waiting for my F1 motors to come back from the arm winder.
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  9. #1974
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    Mic
    I use the PS endbells with PS hardware. The brush hoods line up very well. However I did check the brushes and the wear was spot on. Also the motor would dead short on any of the com segments. I checked this by marking the crown segments and I observed that it would stop on any one of them not always the same one.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    Fred saw this problem once and it was the brush hoods the brushes where wearing in long on 1 side because of the miss aligned brush hoods and it would short across 2 segments and the back brush would short across the other 2 segment . so 1 coil was shorting and would not allow arm to turn
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  10. #1975
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    Hi George
    the arms were almost new with just a clean up cut on the comm. In fact the comms are still.200+ so rather then junking them I'm goint to first try thr vertical brushes then magnets with a narrower gap between the north and south tips. Yes Koford does make vertical hardware that will fit C-cans but I have some of there older vertical copper hardware from some older Contender motors I use to run. I'll try it first. I see no reason vertical hardware would be considered illegal since there is no longer restrictions on hardware use between manufactures.
    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Fred, many thanks for posting this information. As my NORCAL season is progressing into race #5, some of my Pro Slot Super Wasp arms are aging to the point where the comm diameters are getting smaller. I have run into exactly this same problem you describe. In fact, there were a couple of motors at the Fresno race I had to pull out of cars during practice because they needed push starts. One of these motors I narrowed the brushes and it helped a little, but I would never race a motor that did this. I figure I can buy 5-6 Pro Slot C Can arms for every ONE Valiko eurosport arm I buy, so if they get to this point, they go into my junk box as retired.

    CRASH CODGER has mentioned the same thing and is trying the vertical hardware. I haven't gotten any reports of how that is working, but not sure that is even legal for our rules. Does any manufacturer make vertical hardware for C Cans? Does Koford? Anyway, my philosophy of running in a race is such that if I find an arm has too many comm cuts, it's history. I know it's hard to set aside an arm that technically still has some comm life left, but I just don't like jeopardizing my race efforts with this kind of life stretching effort.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  11. #1976
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    Fred What magnets are you using? I can see this happening with an big beveled tip say like the g-2's from Kelly. I've built bout 20 Prolsot motors since just before Philly and used both t-5's and t2's standard tip and t2's with the beveled tip and have had no problems.
    Motors By Mic B
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  12. #1977
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Mic, contact Richard Mack to ask him if that F1 chassis is available. I recommend it highly. I have that and a Horky and I have had trouble deciding which car I like better. They run very differently, need different driving input, but both cars are good. Right now I am waiting for my F1 motors to come back from the arm winder.
    Sr you mentioned different driving styles for each f-1 chassis the Mack verses the Horky care to elaborate on this.Is 1 more forgiving then the other?
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  13. #1978
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    Sr you mentioned different driving styles for each f-1 chassis the Mack verses the Horky care to elaborate on this.Is 1 more forgiving then the other?
    Mic, I wish I could elaborate more, but I sent my Camen set up and armature to Pro Slot to have Dan wind me another arm....this was before Xmas. I had limited testing time before Xmas and only had one motor to share between the two chassis. I had the Camen motor in the Mack car and it worked really well, got good lap times on the Testarossa with it. The Mack looked less wagging around than the Horky, it didn't kick out as much in the esses and got around the track really efficiently. The Horky looked messier, but it seemed like I could push it harder before it deslotted. I think the Mack let go more quickly without warning, but up until that point would look really tidy going around the track. Put in other terms, I suppose you could say the Mack ran tighter and the Horky looser. My Horky is an older one, maybe around 2009 or so and has the larger motor box which the Camen motor fits INSIDE of. On the Mack, I had to do some major mods to the motor box but got it so the entire Camen set up fit in it too. That means the bottom of the set up is even with the bottom of the chassis, and with the Vitula crown the mesh comes out perfectly.
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  14. #1979
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Freddie View Post
    Hi George
    the arms were almost new with just a clean up cut on the comm. In fact the comms are still.200+ so rather then junking them I'm goint to first try thr vertical brushes then magnets with a narrower gap between the north and south tips. Yes Koford does make vertical hardware that will fit C-cans but I have some of there older vertical copper hardware from some older Contender motors I use to run. I'll try it first. I see no reason vertical hardware would be considered illegal since there is no longer restrictions on hardware use between manufactures.
    Oh wow, I guess I didn't understand these were almost new arms. Yes, just over .200" on new Pro Slots and they go down, I think, to around .185" or maybe a bit less. Not really many comm cuts on them. The arms I mentioned are getting down towards the end. Usually when the comm diameter is smaller, the brushes will short out. But you are now bringing up a whole new can of worms I can't explain. By the way, the ATOM Hornet I ran on Sunday is BALLISTIC! Glad Bill is making arms to add another manufacturer to the mix.
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  15. #1980
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    Mic
    They were the older Camen magnets. I do have some feather setups with T-5s in them. I just might punch one out to .560 and see how it works. I no longer have a place to race since Chicks closed but that doesn't mean I've given up playing with my slot cars.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    Fred What magnets are you using? I can see this happening with an big beveled tip say like the g-2's from Kelly. I've built bout 20 Prolsot motors since just before Philly and used both t-5's and t2's standard tip and t2's with the beveled tip and have had no problems.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

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