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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #1996
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
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    804
    pilmat
    cleaning the comm slots with a Xacto knife is OK if your careful, but don't bevel the slots with a ballpoint pen. I use to do that also but was told by a pro racer that it alters the arm timing. I now use a stiff eyeliner brush to debur the slots and maintain the sharp edges of the slot.
    Quote Originally Posted by pilmat View Post
    I was thinking the same thing, but ever time I've seen dirty comm slots, I find it on the power supply (funky amp numbers and runs weird).

    For cleaning the slot I've heard of a new Xacto blade, a ball point pen (run it down the slot and it de-burs after cleaning with the blade), cardboard or plastic to not scratch the comm. All work, just develop your own technique.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  2. #1997
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Central Ca.
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    75
    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Great report Brian! I haven't gotten my usual morning email yet from CRASH, so I think you may have shaken up the old geezer a bit!!! I think your 8T pinion will be the way to go on the flat track in Fresno. Low 4s is fast, but not sure how low your 4s are! We were running 3.9s with GT12s during the NORCAL weekend, that was on green for me. I would think a mini motor with a decent American arm would do 4.2s or so. Keep us posted.
    I know it was slow I was running a Bigdog arm 4.4 geared 8 thats why I think I;m under geared with a 12 arm it ran the same speed as a BD. Also Crash showed me what I had done wrong in building my BD3 so I will make the changes to my chassis and the other 3 chassis I have built and see what happens. These were the first chasssis I have ever built. I started racing 1 race before the norcal race, so from where I started to now is a world of difference.
    Go fast or go Home.

  3. #1998
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
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    305
    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Phil, I really find this post to be thought provoking. I'm going to text Hermanator and have him read it and we will talk about your ideas. I think I know what you are referring to with side and forward bite....we run into this particularly with the nastier little cars like ES32 and 1/32 F1 Eurosport. Those cars have to have a really good balance to be able to push them..especially the F1 cars. Very finicky. This is great information.
    So what did the Hermanator have to say?

    I wish he would offer tires with a smaller rim, as we don't have as fast of club tracks out this way.
    Phil Matthews

  4. #1999
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    I'm gonna see him at the Scale Nats Warm Up on Sunday and we'll talk it over. You'll probably see follow up on Monday. For smaller hubs, I know Hobbytown in Fresno (CRASH's track) should have a stock of magnesium 3/32" X .810" full hubs .350" diameter. I bought some, good particularly for the 40T GT12s.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  5. #2000
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    Over the past few days I took Big Piero apart using Real Piero's manufacturer's procedures. I removed the inside stop on the pan....makes the whole thing come apart very easily for straightening and cleaning. Got it reassembled last night and put in a Camen Gulliver motor, Camen .470" diameter 22t25 in a six mag. I really like the Big Piero chassis, you can make little modifications to it for tuning and it is very responsive. We'll see how it works on Sunday at the race.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #2001
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    Good news just in from Proformance Racing, Inc. of Alpharetta, Georgia, home of the HOGGER. David says the new batch of good rubber just hit our shores, right now in customs. He expects donuts in stock by next week perhaps. Price has gone up just a little. This is good news not only for Proformance customers like myself, but it also means the shortage of good rubber was pretty temporary and all suppliers should be back to normal.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  7. #2002
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    The >SPF60 is interesting as Lee keeps telling me to use >SPF50. I know his bottle came from Safeway!

    The dead short is caused by both brushes contacting the same comm segment.
    Actually, this happens on every horizontal brush motor. But with the extremely advanced timing we see these days, the motor may not be able to over come the overlap. Interesting.

    Here is a picture from Slick 7's website that is the best graphical representation I have see of this.
    Gary Johnson

  8. #2003
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearBear View Post
    The >SPF60 is interesting as Lee keeps telling me to use >SPF50. I know his bottle came from Safeway!


    Actually, this happens on every horizontal brush motor. But with the extremely advanced timing we see these days, the motor may not be able to over come the overlap. Interesting.

    Here is a picture from Slick 7's website that is the best graphical representation I have see of this.
    So I still don't understand, how does the SPF50 solve the short? Happy Friday Gary!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  9. #2004
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    hehehe... That is what I get for combining posts!

    Well I'm going offline for a while. Have to go see about finding some fuel for the generator and Propane fireplace. PSE says we might be without power until Sunday.... It was nice going to work as I got to warm up!
    Gary Johnson

  10. #2005
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Central Ca.
    Posts
    75
    How do I get more consistence in bodies? I mounted many bodies and mostly r10 audi's in LMP and caddy and stealth fighter in gt12. i try to mount them in the same spot and do get tham close but some bodies I mount just work better a .10 - 2.0. Some has to do with mfg some bodies wiegh more then others I understand that. A body mounted exacly alike one body just hook the car better with really close wieght. I'm talking same bodies?
    Go fast or go Home.

  11. #2006
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin Brian View Post
    How do I get more consistence in bodies? I mounted many bodies and mostly r10 audi's in LMP and caddy and stealth fighter in gt12. i try to mount them in the same spot and do get tham close but some bodies I mount just work better a .10 - 2.0. Some has to do with mfg some bodies wiegh more then others I understand that. A body mounted exacly alike one body just hook the car better with really close wieght. I'm talking same bodies?
    Brian, you have the best questions!!! Glad you asked this one. Answer to your first question: you can only get the best consistency by mounting a lot of bodies. I have a background as a trackowner for five years and continued slotcar racing after I hung up that hat. I've mounted hundreds of bodies and keep trying new things learning new techniques. But the more you mount, the more consistent you will be.

    That said, you can be as consistent as an "automated body mounting machine" (maybe Les Wright will invent one some day) and still, there will be a difference between bodies. Each one has its own personality. I remember when I raced with Speedshop, Lee would bring a box of premounted bodies for eurosport and we would try them all until we found one we liked. One racer might like a body, and another one hates the same one! Who knows why except each body is pulled separately and will have small differences.

    I have found the same thing making eyeglasses. I can make two pairs of glasses with the same prescription, same lenses, layout the same way and when the wearer tries the two pairs, they will find each one feels different. There are just too many variables to make two things identical.

    There are two important dimensions to body mounting. Rear spoiler height is one, and front to rear body position. On most bodies, I measure from a point on the side of the body at the front to a predetermined measurement for the front body pin. Some bodies might be 2", 1-7/8", etc. When trying out a new body style, I will make a test body with about five different pin holes to move the body forward, then back. For spoiler height, you just measure and mark at the side of the body at the spoiler. To get a 1-5/8" spoiler with tires on at .032" clearance, generally you will make a mark at 1-7/16" and cut there. Works every time for me. But, I do not always use the full 1-5/8" spoiler height. For some bodies, it gets the cg too high and it gets tippy and chattery. So, you have to try different spoiler heights too.

    Lots of variables as you can see. CRASH and I always talk about the added variables of planetary alignment, rotational velocity of the planet Jupiter, and sunspots.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  12. #2007
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    I was pleased with the way the three races went yesterday. I ran the Castricone chassis in ES32, it was really hooked up and ran a 3.7 during the race. That is a huge improvement over some of the earlier NORCAL Eurosport Club events where I was wondering what was going on with my ES32 program. The track power got changed last week and I need to get used to it. I couldn't figure out how to use the FET with the added power supply. Called Howard and he told me to try the toggle switches. It was too late though, just not enough time to try to get used to something new, so I pulled out Budgie and used it for the races yesterday. For the eurosport races I turned off the full speed relay, so I knew I was not getting as much full power as with my FET, but I knew how to control the car with Budgie. Had to use 40% choke at the beginning of both eurosport races and by the end of each race when the tires were wonderful I could go straight up.

    The GT12 race went really well until heat #7 when my Cahoza aluminum brush hoods started grabbing the brushes. Needed a push start after one track call, and it wasn't as strong for the last two heats although I did run 3.788 on black and 3.9s on yellow, my last lane. I could spin the rear tires like there were no brushes in the motor after the race! I'm amazed it ran at all. Kind of like using springs made from yak hair. Ran the BMW, seemed to be the best body yesterday out of my collection. Poor Bluey chose the horrible Peugeot. That thing is a nightmare. Others have tried it at SCR and the consensus is to buy one, try it, then put it away. However, the Red Fox Audi 18 seems to work for a lot of guys. I go back and forth between the Audi 18 and the BMW, they are pretty close.

    In 1/24 eurosport I decided to experiment with the car with big power, chose the Horky with the Valiko 18t24.5 in my Voki 10 mag. Again, started with 40% choke. We ran five minute heats. Four out of five racers elected to use the ISRA rules with no work between heats. The fifth one decided to not follow those rules and changed braids and tires at will. Of course, that one's results were much better as the rest of us who elected to follow the rules to see what it is like to run on burned braids and to make tire changes while the track is on. During the Nats in March, I sure hope the race director elects to enforce the rules and not let racers take the car to the pits to change stuff between heats while others follow the rules. I'm not sure why the race director yesterday did not tech the cars or follow USRA race procedures during the race. Oh well, perhaps the thinking went like this: "this is just a practice race". Oops, practice means also practicing tire and braid changes. Oh well. Too bad, so sad.

    My braid wear was the biggest concern. After four heats the left side (from the driver's perspective) needed changing, so I planned to stop 15 seconds before the end of heat #5 for a braid change. For some reason I did not take any smart pills before the race and for some reason decided to only change the one braid when in reality I had plenty of time to change both!!!! So, the right side braid became my Achilles Heel for the rest of the race. I got through by fluffing that braid and angling it down. Unfortunately, at one track call a turn marshall flattened that braid too much and it just burned more! The car really slowed down. During the next lane change, I readjusted that burned braid and the car came back really nicely. The tire wear was perfect. I know on my Horky that it is out of tires at .595" diameter....and sure enough, after the race they measured that! The car was running strong to the end. Those Valiko aluminum comm arms are great when you get them in the right set up.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  13. #2008
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Cleveland, TN
    Posts
    709
    Great report..just one thing...what were the race results ?
    Last edited by Slotcar Racer; 01-23-2012 at 11:43 AM.
    Alan Ingram

  14. #2009
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Ingram View Post
    Great report..just one thing...what were the race results ?
    I don't think race results are particularly relevant when the attitude about it is as a practice race.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  15. #2010
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin Brian View Post
    How do I get more consistence in bodies? I mounted many bodies and mostly r10 audi's in LMP and caddy and stealth fighter in gt12. i try to mount them in the same spot and do get tham close but some bodies I mount just work better a .10 - 2.0. Some has to do with mfg some bodies wiegh more then others I understand that. A body mounted exacly alike one body just hook the car better with really close wieght. I'm talking same bodies?
    One way I try to make my bodies consistent is that I use the same bulletproofing on every body. This helps to negate the differences in flex of the bodies. The bulletproofing I use is http://www.shoppscr.com/slot-fox/slo...orcement-sf500. This die cut bulletproofing allows me to be very consistent from one body to the next. Much more so than cutting it myself.
    Gary Johnson

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