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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #2071
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Everett, Wa.
    Posts
    520
    That is a gorgeous track and those pics showed some fine craftsmanship and detail.
    Guy Middleton
    Everything I was taught in Engineering school I had already learned from slot cars....

  2. #2072
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Central Ca.
    Posts
    75
    WTF today I got a new arm and it has to be started. Pulls 6 amps and won't go then when it goes it gets very hot! Every three starts and stops it won't go.I am so disapointed put it in a setup start to break it in WTF I have to start it so disapointing. I hope the return goes smoothly! A day behind on that motor, race thursday and have to work on it tomorrow night another late night thrash!
    Go fast or go Home.

  3. #2073
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Well Brian, those push start arms are a real drag. Not too long ago in this thread there was a lot of discussion about the same issue. I too had a push start arm, but I assumed it was old and with a small comm, but then I measured the comm and it had only been cut once. Sounds like your's has an internal short, and it sounds like you are sending it back to the mfg....good idea.

    While Brian was NOT having fun with his new armature, last night I got the two Audi R10s pinned and to my surprise it all went smoothly. Takes a bit of practice. For the NORCAL series, LMP bodies have to be cut along the mfg cut line, so the Red Fox Audi R10 has the front diaplane. I have found that it's better to leave more height to the diaplane so it stays flat, otherwise I have tried making it more slammed and end up with the dreaded arched front end. Leaving a bit more on the front end seems to solve this problem.....I'd rather have it a bit higher instead of having the front catch a bunch of unnecessary dirty air under the car.

    Just a few finishing touches on the LMPs tonight, then I move on to mounting the two Starfighters on the Bulldog 3. I cut them to 1.5" at the rear spoiler so they will end up approximately at 1-9/16" spoiler height. It's about as low as you can get this body without getting tangled up in the front bussbar of the motor....even that I trim down a bit for clearance. Better move on to "work" now....
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  4. #2074
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Roseville, CA
    Posts
    146
    SR, Make sure those paint jobs look good. The new lighting is very nice and it will be so much easier to see our cars this weekend. Both tracks were cleaned and glued last night.
    Jay Herrod

  5. #2075
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybird View Post
    SR, Make sure those paint jobs look good. The new lighting is very nice and it will be so much easier to see our cars this weekend. Both tracks were cleaned and glued last night.
    Got any photos to post Jay? Sounds great, I can leave my miner's hard hat at home. I'd love to see some photos of the raceway posted here, even if you email me some iPhone photos I'll post em for you. The facility is huge, for those who have never been there, all part of a full service hobby shop. I am excited to come up on Saturday to SEE and race at this raceway!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #2076
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    804
    Brian
    I had this problem and it's highlighted earlier in this thread. I believe my problem has to do with a setup incompatability problem so I'm fixing to try the same arm in different setups. My arm was a Proslot .540 Contender at 45 degrees. My setup was a Red Fox can, Proslot endbell and hardware, and older Camen magnets bored out tp .560. This same setup worked fine with my BOW .540 Contender 45 degree arms. I believe it has something to do with the crown spacing and crown widths on the arms. If I come up with an answer I'll put it out here for all to read. I did find a quick cure if you want to try it and see if it helps you. Either use vertical brushes or narrow your current brushes by about 1/3. Both ways will help. Good luck seems I'm not the only one having this problem
    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin Brian View Post
    WTF today I got a new arm and it has to be started. Pulls 6 amps and won't go then when it goes it gets very hot! Every three starts and stops it won't go.I am so disapointed put it in a setup start to break it in WTF I have to start it so disapointing. I hope the return goes smoothly! A day behind on that motor, race thursday and have to work on it tomorrow night another late night thrash!
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  7. #2077
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Roseville, CA
    Posts
    146
    You have email . You'll have to show me how to post pics later.
    Jay Herrod

  8. #2078
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybird View Post
    You have email . You'll have to show me how to post pics later.
    Jay, looks like FX posted something already. He's really out of control now, sorry about that. Take a look at what he posted and certainly add any commentary you might have. "Precious" my foot!!!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  9. #2079
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
    Posts
    155
    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin Brian View Post
    WTF today I got a new arm and it has to be started. Pulls 6 amps and won't go then when it goes it gets very hot! Every three starts and stops it won't go.I am so disapointed put it in a setup start to break it in WTF I have to start it so disapointing. I hope the return goes smoothly! A day behind on that motor, race thursday and have to work on it tomorrow night another late night thrash!
    Are you running heavy than normal springs on the setup? Sometimes it seems that with a high timed arm and lots of friction on the com (if using the heavy spring) that the drag is to great for the amount of magnet strength available - this problem is maybe worsened with a .540 arm because the thinness of both the armature crown near the leading edge and thinner magnet (post hone-ing). Just a thought.....
    Asking all things relevant-

  10. #2080
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    so cal
    Posts
    535
    Slotcar Racer;286094I ordered a small decaf with room for cream and a blueberry muffin.
    OK SR, as I'm not a coffee drinker, I need your "speed secrets" here ...... how did you manage to get the cream and the blueberry muffin in the cup with the coffee? Small arm (muffin) or large air gap (cup)??? ;-)

  11. #2081
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike K View Post
    OK SR, as I'm not a coffee drinker, I need your "speed secrets" here ...... how did you manage to get the cream and the blueberry muffin in the cup with the coffee? Small arm (muffin) or large air gap (cup)??? ;-)
    Mike, very easy answer to this question, the muffin is a large diameter arm for sure, but at Peet's you can always order a large airgap....I left that piece out. The actual order was "small decaf in a large cup with room for cream and a blueberry muffin". Of course you can't put the cream and muffin in a small cup, that is like putting a .540" arm in a .525" airgap....it just doesn't work. Sometime try the tea at Peet's. Mr. Peet was originally a tea importer.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  12. #2082
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Manteca,CA
    Posts
    286
    Hey george seeing if you know ,if anyone is looking for some fast stuff ,from group 10 to x12 motors ,if so I will bring them Greg
    2011/2012 Nascar SCRA Champion
    2011/2012 SCRA Champion
    Sandbag Motorsports......always keep them guessing!!!
    https://m.facebook.com/Sandbagmotorsports?ref=bookmark
    ProSlot LTD
    Third Eye Technology

  13. #2083
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Central Ca.
    Posts
    75
    Quote Originally Posted by Berteinstein View Post
    Are you running heavy than normal springs on the setup? I use champion light springs So it seems that with a high timed arm Puppydogs are 25 degrees and lots of friction on the com (if using the heavy spring) that the drag is to great for the amount of magnet strength available - this problem is maybe worsened with a .540 arm because the thinness of both the armature crown near the leading edge and thinner magnet (post hone-ing). Just a thought.....
    Puppydogs are .513

    Motor brushes are narrowed by a third. Motor sounded great running in 2 poles!

    I got another arm today Our club is out lawing the motors I run Hawk 7 as of april 1 so I will have to run puppydogs. I really love running mini motor, Hawks and puppydog on our flat track are almost as fast as my Chooza proslot 45 degree contender motor. A 15 dallor Hawk motor is a lot of performace at a low price. I run 4.7 with a contender and hawk runs 4.8 if I had my way NORCAL can stop running C can motors I am a big fan of the Mini can motors they are the I hope they are the future. Mini motors should be used at most club races. Falcons are widely used but they are not servicable Hawks and proslot MK2 motor are a quality product and fast and rebuildable. We install a bearing in the can side these motor go away at the same rate a C can does they sound good and are fast. They are my choice as a testing mule. I use a bigdog in my GT12 car and it is a cheap way to go fast. On our track a Bigdog us withen .2 of a good x12. Our bigdog races are more fun then our 12 races. If your club uses Falcons I recomend getting rid of them and going wit Hawk motors and there American replacement arm Koford and proslot builds arms for Hawk Motor. I couldn't talk my c;ub into it all the guy;s here had proslots and they didn;t want to make the change I can make them both run the same speed.
    Go fast or go Home.

  14. #2084
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    305
    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin Brian View Post
    Our club is out lawing the motors I run Hawk 7 as of april 1 so I will have to run puppydogs. I really love running mini motor, Hawks and puppydog on our flat track are almost as fast as my Chooza proslot 45 degree contender motor. A 15 dallor Hawk motor is a lot of performace at a low price. I run 4.7 with a contender and hawk runs 4.8 if I had my way NORCAL can stop running C can motors I am a big fan of the Mini can motors they are the I hope they are the future. Mini motors should be used at most club races. Falcons are widely used but they are not servicable Hawks and proslot MK2 motor are a quality product and fast and rebuildable. We install a bearing in the can side these motor go away at the same rate a C can does they sound good and are fast. They are my choice as a testing mule. I use a bigdog in my GT12 car and it is a cheap way to go fast. On our track a Bigdog us withen .2 of a good x12. Our bigdog races are more fun then our 12 races. If your club uses Falcons I recomend getting rid of them and going wit Hawk motors and there American replacement arm Koford and proslot builds arms for Hawk Motor. I couldn't talk my c;ub into it all the guy;s here had proslots and they didn;t want to make the change I can make them both run the same speed.
    Brian, I don't doubt your experience with mini motors as I too think that they could be a way forward for slots, but...(here comes the "but", there is usually a "but")

    The real question to ask is "will switching to mini motors bring in any NEW racers?". "New" here could mean add returning racers as well as people that haven't raced before.

    Just switching from C-cans to minis could actually drive away racers (you obsolete their stuff and some may not want to re-up for a new program).

    Next lets look at a "$15 motor". Throw away the arm and endbell; add an American arm ($26.50), aftermarket endbell ($8), can bearing ($8), brushes and springs ($5). You just hit C-can prices. Note that there are cheaper ways to get there with the mini motor! And note here that there is only a couple of games in town and as they are not run in any "competitive motor building" classes, there is little interest to push them. But if they were allowed en-mass (say in GT-12), companies would come out with better magnets, lighter cans, etc. keeping us at the exact same price levels. It's racing and we all push the limits!

    The sealed motor game is a bit dubious to me...

    What we really NEED is more racers.and slot cars as a whole is struggling with this. Lou Pirro and I discuss this every time we are together, and we end the subject with blank stares...
    Last edited by pilmat; 02-02-2012 at 07:19 AM. Reason: Actually finish my thought!
    Phil Matthews

  15. #2085
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Last night I finished up the two LMP body mounts, a couple of Red Fox Audi R10s. At least one of them should get nice and wadded up on Saturday! Now I have both Starfighters pinned, so tonight I need to finish them with bulletproofing, numbers, detailing, etc. Hermanator stopped by the house and we chatted while I trimmed bodies. He said he wants to come up to Rocklin with me and play on the flat track, so that will be really cool to have him there. I imagine we'll arrive before 10:00 to get signed up, then it will easily be until 3:00 until the LMP race starts.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

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