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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #2236
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Cleveland, TN
    Posts
    709
    Quote Originally Posted by caprikinggus View Post
    Hey Alan! The Nats are in our sights, of course. I'm doing so much better the last month that I'm scared, scared for my competitors. It's my mental stability the last two weeks that are of question. That I'm working on. I've had several events in my personal life lately that have kept me from playing with my toy cars. How's it going back east? Have you had time and resources to look for any tracks? Gus in Sacto
    Only the last 2 weeks ?
    Alan Ingram

  2. #2237
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Had another productive night last night, got both 1/32 F1 eurosport motors built up. The new Pro Slot armature is in the new set up and I broke it in for a long time. I'm thinking what I should do is pull it apart and touch up the comm, then throw it back together. Once it's back together time to grind the shaft down to 1.5mm. This usually takes about 15 minutes. With the F1 there isn't much shaft length remaining because the Vitula crown gear hub is on the motor shaft side of the gear. I kind of wish the Vitula had the hub on the other side like the green crown gears, however the Vitula is the best F1 crown gear I've ever used.

    The Camen F1 motor went right back together very happily with just a quick shave of the comm. What a smooth motor! Both motors sound the same at 4 volts. Oh, one thing I am trying are the three coil Cahoza #255 light springs. These are really meant for non shunted brushes with the plating, however Cahoza rates the tension a bit higher than the #254s. I have been running Camen regular springs, but the idea of F1 is to be able to dial out the brakes, especially if the car starts getting too much bite. Coasting is our friend.

    The only other thing I did was to put Protodog 3 on the allie block to check for flatness. Protodog has been doing fairly well in practice at Frank's, gets low 3.8s high 3.7s with HD body....pretty average times....but I could tell something was just a bit off. Once I got it on the block, it became clear the front end had issues of a droopy nature. Now that I have cleared up the droops, we'll see how it works on Saturday. This is the chassis I raced in Philadelphia the the ISRA Nats. Well, I guess I better get to "work" now while my mental stability is still more or less intact.....
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  3. #2238
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Yesterday I thought maybe I'd have the new F1 motor with the Pro Slot arm up and running, but unfortunately ended up with a shorted out endbell after doing all the carving to fit in the chassis. It's never happened before, but there's always the danger of when you start grinding the endbell and the endbell hardware to the same shape things start to touch and the first thing you know it's all one piece. Oh well. So, I just undid the screws carefully and pulled off the Cahoza vertical brush hardware. This gave me a chance to clean up the carvings with the small bastard file giving nice sharp corners to the cut outs. It fits really nicely into the Horky chassis now. So tonight I need to finish cleaning up the endbell and hardware then glue it back together with good ol' gorilla snot. I'm also going to play around with cutting down the bottoms screws to a minimum diameter by inserting them in the chuck on the cordless Mr. Dremel and then use the cut off wheel on the corded Mr. Dremel to grind down the head really small. Hopefully we'll get this new F1 motor running tonight and installed into the Horky.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  4. #2239
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    SCR
    doing 10 sets of tires today with the new rubber from Proformance looks like great rubber will test next Friday night . Also starting build on 3 euro motors Cahozza .610 cans single radial mags .440 tall .300 long .518 hole and .520 with Bill Begunis arm he wants tested .
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  5. #2240
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    127
    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    SCR
    doing 10 sets of tires today with the new rubber from Proformance looks like great rubber will test next Friday night . Also starting build on 3 euro motors Cahozza .610 cans single radial mags .440 tall .300 long .518 hole and .520 with Bill Begunis arm he wants tested .
    Spelling please: "BUGENIS"

  6. #2241
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    Sorry Bill BUGENIS
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  7. #2242
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    127
    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    Sorry Bill BUGENIS
    No Worries. Correcting the spelling of my name is a lifelong edneavour.

    Bill

  8. #2243
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Bill, glad you coarected the spelling on your name.

    I don't think I saw this posted anywhere on OWH, but right now there's a big HO race up in Ferndale, California.

    http://thefrayinferndale.com/

    I learned of this talking with Peter Lentros, owner/operator of the former Playland Purple Mile Sovereign. Check out the website and see past results to see the incredible participation. Ferndale is way north of San Francisco just outside of Eureka on the north coast. I sent Peter an email to get an update on the race this year.

    Otherwise I got the new F1 motor purring like a kitten this morning after rebuilding the endbell last night. That was actually a great learning experience about how to work with these little inline cars. I think all the endbell carving I had done in the past I was just lucky things didn't short out. I believe in the future I will actually take the endbells apart, or if building up from scratch be sure to do the cutting ahead of time. On the bare endbell itself, the cutting gets pretty close to the lower screw holes. I did find some nice allen head endbell screws last night, small diameter, good for getting that F1 motor down as low as possibly. I may dare to test the two F1s tomorrow during the NORCAL event.....or not....
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  9. #2244
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Roseville, CA
    Posts
    146
    And when I hear the collision from across the room, I'll remember the "or not..."
    Jay Herrod

  10. #2245
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Cleveland, TN
    Posts
    709
    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    ............. I may dare to test the two F1s tomorrow during the NORCAL event.....or not....
    Hmmmm, sounds like a little tempting of fate !
    Alan Ingram

  11. #2246
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Cleveland, TN
    Posts
    709
    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Bill, glad you coarected the spelling on your name.

    I don't think I saw this posted anywhere on OWH, but right now there's a big HO race up in Ferndale, California.

    http://thefrayinferndale.com/

    ....
    Our own PK "Mom" has been there and here are the pics
    Alan Ingram

  12. #2247
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    127
    SR wrote: "I think all the endbell carving I had done in the past I was just lucky things didn't short out. I believe in the future I will actually take the endbells apart, or if building up from scratch be sure to do the cutting ahead of time."

    I wonder of anyone ever considered doing a little touchup annodizing on these endbels?? A little battery acid (sulphuric) from NAPA - pass A 12v dc current through the endbel, the acid and then an aluminum wire submerged in the acid.

    Alternatively, the bare aluminum can be made non conductive by repeatedly arcing the exposed area with current from your power supply.

    In both cases you are creating a layer of Aluminum oxide (kind of like rust on aluminum) which will not conduct electricity.

    That layer of oxide is all that type 2 anodizing is, really. The color is a dye that is added later. I am not that familiar with type 1 or hard anodizing.

  13. #2248
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Nr. Birmingham,England
    Posts
    108
    Hi George,
    a little trick taught to me by Geoff Mitchell, probably the best builder ever in the Uk.
    When you get an endbell short, connect your PS leads to both sides of the brush gear with the PS switched OFF, turn the voltage to full, flick the switch to ON, and you should hear a crack when the short is blown away, job done.

    Woody
    Woodyatoaklands

  14. #2249
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Woody-England View Post
    Hi George,
    a little trick taught to me by Geoff Mitchell, probably the best builder ever in the Uk.
    When you get an endbell short, connect your PS leads to both sides of the brush gear with the PS switched OFF, turn the voltage to full, flick the switch to ON, and you should hear a crack when the short is blown away, job done.

    Woody
    OK people, you read it right here on Slot Car Racer Today! Wow, that's a wild tip, but sounds like it should work. Bill's idea of anodizing sounds like a good science experiment done in class. Geoff's method sounds more like a science experiment I would do after school with my friends. Kind of like nuking ants with a magnifying glass or burning the magnesium shavings after making some wheels on the Unimat. I almost want to purposely create a short on an alloy endbell just to try this! I wanna hear that "CRACK"! Cool! Thanks for that Woody.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  15. #2250
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Quote Originally Posted by wbugenis View Post
    SR wrote: "I think all the endbell carving I had done in the past I was just lucky things didn't short out. I believe in the future I will actually take the endbells apart, or if building up from scratch be sure to do the cutting ahead of time."
    I wonder of anyone ever considered doing a little touchup annodizing on these endbels?? A little battery acid (sulphuric) from NAPA - pass A 12v dc current through the endbel, the acid and then an aluminum wire submerged in the acid.

    Alternatively, the bare aluminum can be made non conductive by repeatedly arcing the exposed area with current from your power supply.

    In both cases you are creating a layer of Aluminum oxide (kind of like rust on aluminum) which will not conduct electricity.

    That layer of oxide is all that type 2 anodizing is, really. The color is a dye that is added later. I am not that familiar with type 1 or hard anodizing.
    Bill,

    That is just too cool! I think I might have to try that! I have some bits of Alum lying around and an old battery to suck the acid out of... This should be a fun project!
    Gary Johnson

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