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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #2281
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by KVAN View Post
    Do you feel that taking the rear steer out of the chassis by moving the rails is as effective as soldering solid?
    Kevin, not to answer for SCR, I'm sure he'll jump in. But I found this a while ago and used Brian Saunders' advice when approaching rail adjustments: LINK (it's post #7 on that thread).

    Back to you SCR
    Phil Matthews

  2. #2282
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    Quote Originally Posted by KVAN View Post
    Hi Scr,

    Do you feel that taking the rear steer out of the chassis by moving the rails is as effective as soldering solid?
    Hi Kevin, maybe I wasn't clear enough. In answer to your question the two options are totally different, no comparison that one is better than the other.

    1) Shorter rails with rear tube = rear steer
    2) Rails butted up against rear of stop not soldered in tubes = No steer or minimal steer, but chassis has the flex from unsoldered rear rail
    3) Rails soldered solid front and rear
    4) An option I saw at the Rocklin race...tubes front AND rear, rails unsoldered both ends

    In my experience, I found .047" rails soldered solid front and rear worked best on Bulldog 1 and 2.

    For the Bulldog 3, solid .047" rails was way too much bite with the center spine and the reinforced motor box. Went to minimum steer and that has worked out well for me at all tracks.

    Hope that helps you my friend!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  3. #2283
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    Quote Originally Posted by KVAN View Post
    Hi Scr,

    Do you feel that taking the rear steer out of the chassis by moving the rails is as effective as soldering solid?
    Kvan I too set the dog 3 up with no rear steer as SCR does I like the rails unsoldered you still get a little flex or pivot with them tried them soldered once and didn't like how tight the chassis got .
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
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  4. #2284
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    The last couple of days have been spent studying the F1 cars, the Mack and the Horky. Last night I got out the lead and added some small tabs to the front of the pans on the Mack, and a small chunk right on top of the front wheel assembly. I also noticed one of my Horky front wheels was kind of binding! I read somewhere, I think Andy wrote about how to set up those front wheels....something about they are 1.5mm, not .063". One wheel turned fine, in fact it spun nicely. Took the other one off and started polishing the axle with a blue silicone wheel which made it nice and smooth, but also a bit smaller....got it so the wheel spins now. I can't imagine a bound up front wheel would do my Mack F1 much good, but there you go. The thing works great on the Testarossa even with the bound up wheel, and it's possible that is what made the car feel tight...who knows, but I will try it again this weekend with free spinning fronts and some front weight. I also noticed the front end was way too low on the Mack...gently pushing down on the guide nut totally bottomed out the front end. Added .010" in spacers.

    The Horky F1 checked out OK, but I'm not happy with how the Red Fox 2010 McLaren mounts. These F1 bodies are really hard to mount straight. I'm having trouble with the front end no sitting down flat. I've played around with the four pin mounts to no avail. Might be time to paint another couple of bodies and start over again!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  5. #2285
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    Lots of work done last night. Received new Cahoza UL prod set up and knocked out the magnets for reglue with Skinner. Although that Cahoza glue appears to be a really nice epoxy job, truth be told it only takes 10 seconds for a hot iron to drop the mags.

    On the other hand, it was time to knock the vertical multimags out of my one Mystery Motor so I can reuse the .480T Camen can. I removed the paint from the can first, then applied paste flux and got the iron turned up to max and slathered on the solder....and waited....and waited....the Skinner glue held for a full 4 minutes average per side before the magnets let go.

    IMO the vertical multis are an interesting idea, but don't make much sense or work very well in my experience. So far my best set ups have been the Voki set ups. However, I'm having some new Camen set ups made up with Slick 7 magnets specially for the Nats along with some Mystery Arms. Testing has been going really well with low to mid 3.2s on green with the new stuff, so that is kind of promising.

    Tomorrow is mostly devoted to F1 tuning with the expert in that class, Hermanator. We'll be meeting at Frank's in the afternoon to work on the little inline cars and perhaps a few other things.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  6. #2286
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    IMO the vertical multis are an interesting idea, but don't make much sense or work very well in my experience. So far my best set ups have been the Voki set ups. However, I'm having some new Camen set ups made up with Slick 7 magnets specially for the Nats along with some Mystery Arms. Testing has been going really well with low to mid 3.2s on green with the new stuff, so that is kind of promising.
    George, we'll have to agree to disagree here. I have noticed that one of the huge benefits is that the magnets break less often. With how thin the cans are these days, the flex pattern of magnets makes a big difference in the longevity of the magnets. Since the more flexible epoxy is vertical, the stresses on the magnets seems to be less making it so that the magnets break less often. Also, I've noticed that with these motors I have less brush wear (and braid wear) and the motors seem to run cooler. I'm actually switching all my motors over to these mags.
    Gary Johnson

  7. #2287
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearBear View Post
    George, we'll have to agree to disagree here. I have noticed that one of the huge benefits is that the magnets break less often. With how thin the cans are these days, the flex pattern of magnets makes a big difference in the longevity of the magnets. Since the more flexible epoxy is vertical, the stresses on the magnets seems to be less making it so that the magnets break less often. Also, I've noticed that with these motors I have less brush wear (and braid wear) and the motors seem to run cooler. I'm actually switching all my motors over to these mags.
    Gary, that's well put. As dedicated racers, we spend money on trying new stuff all the time. The only limitation to developing a good race program is lack of imagination. If I look back on my eurosport motor development over the past seven years, it is a very interesting story for sure. I'm glad you are finding the vertical multi mags beneficial. Right now I am going to try out these new motor set ups which are standard multi mags, a couple of 12 mag and a 20 mag set up. Even with very big wire arms, the braid and brush wear also seems reasonable. We'll see how things shake out at the Nats and that will give us all more information to work with.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  8. #2288
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    SCR
    Got to run the new 1/32 euro motor last night we got it into car with a little gear mesh problem got that right put a old body on the horky 1/32 euro .First impressions very good power band smooth with power to spare .Had a few problems with the body not sitting right so we couldn't push the car but all in all a very good test of the new motor.Bill B I think your on to something with these double wind arms.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  9. #2289
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    SCR
    Got to run the new 1/32 euro motor last night we got it into car with a little gear mesh problem got that right put a old body on the horky 1/32 euro .First impressions very good power band smooth with power to spare .Had a few problems with the body not sitting right so we couldn't push the car but all in all a very good test of the new motor.Bill B I think your on to something with these double wind arms.
    i was driving the car, OH boy do i agree.....
    Jay Rogers
    Mic Byrd .....PowerPlants!!!!
    GARDEN STATE ISRA
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  10. #2290
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    Just got report on 1/32 motor 150 laps or so on it now running very strong 3.9 and a couple 3.8's very good time on the uk black waiting for some new 1/24 euro arms for 2 new set ups same as the 1/32 cahozza .610 id .470 tall x .300 long mags will cut to .440 tall and hone to .518 the testing will continue.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  11. #2291
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    127
    The 19/25's came in the mail today. Heading north to epoxy and grind this week.
    Been working on a fixture to grind the 1.5mm step in the shaft. Hopefully no more dremel stuff

    Bill

  12. #2292
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbugenis View Post
    The 19/25's came in the mail today. Heading north to epoxy and grind this week.
    Been working on a fixture to grind the 1.5mm step in the shaft. Hopefully no more dremel stuff

    Bill
    Bill, sounds like you guys are making really good progress with the arms from Mic's report. This makes eurosport racing so exciting right now, we have a number of different approaches happening all at the same time and it all leads to evolution of the sport.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  13. #2293
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    On the other hand, it was time to knock the vertical multimags out of my one Mystery Motor so I can reuse the .480T Camen can. I removed the paint from the can first, then applied paste flux and got the iron turned up to max and slathered on the solder....and waited....and waited....the Skinner glue held for a full 4 minutes average per side before the magnets let go.

    SCR: Tell FX or george about this...

    Saturday finished removing magnets in four can setups this way in less than four minutes.

    I am going to relay a little magnet removal hint. This was something Bob Green relayed to me many decades ago I still use the same process to this day. It take just a few seconds for each magnet. I remove Skinner, Koford Black Max or JB Weld the same way. No need to scrape the paint off or use a soldering iron or solder. You may need just a small amount of acid flux and a glass small jar of either oil or water.


    Step one: Run down (or order) from your local Habor Freight store and grab one of thier several (real cheap) 10.00-8.99 Butane Micro torchs or a pencil torch. While there grab thier smallest pair of needle nose vice grips. Run next door to the local drug store and get a can of butane refill cannisters near the lighter aisle sometime behind the counter thing.The one pictured below I got was during a sale and was $6.00 vice grips 2.50 butane refill was about 2.00.

    Step one for the can: Take apart your motor down to the can.



    Step two: fill the Micro torch with butane (its a gas) just take a few seconds. Then fire it up (the Micro torch not the BBQ) by turn the dial adjustment for a fine tip flame and clicking on the self starter. Adjust flame smallest tip flame not to burger burning setting.


    Step two point one: No need to clean or scrape paint off the can as this process most times doesn't effect the paint if done right. Theres two vice grips fine tip needle nose fit between the bearing and the magnet to preseve the solder joint on the bearing and act as a heat sink. If the bearing is shot place the needle nose on one side (no need too flip) and heat bearing first and it will pop out into the magnet.The other vice grip is a whale tale tip with wide flat tip. Mine is ground to fit in between the magnets and small hole in them to fit over the bearing. Again to act as a heat sink. Either way works.


    Step two two(tu-tu) : Dab a bit of acid flux on the edges of the magnet you wish to remove.


    Step three: While holding the can assembly in the small needle nose vice grips between the bearing and magnets apply some heat with the tip of the flame for apoximatly one or two seconds should do it five at the most. You don't need to heat very much or very long just enough to soften the Skinner/koford glue. If the can turns red you gone too far. Just one side for now but it possible to do both by breifly heat each one. Needle nose require doing each magnet seperatly by flipping to the other side and heating seperately.


    Step three point one: Work quickly here while still hot. At this point the glue is soft. Sometime if your lucky the first magnet will pop off by itself. If not...On a heat resistant soldering surface hold the can against your soldering slate while still in vice grips. In you other hand using a xacto or very fine tip screwdriver or a dohicky-remove all tool pry the one magnet off. Most times it will cleanly pop off with all the glue still attached to magnet. (sometime not.) Then repeat moving the vice grip heating the other can side magnet.


    Step three point two; Not required but if your using a needle nose vice grip i keep a small glass jar with either water or motor oil to reanneal the can and swiftly cool it so the metal doesn't go soft.

    Step tree point seven dwarfs: Clean up you can with acitone solvent (be sure to cool using step 3.2 or you will have no eyebrows) if thier glue left do your detailing of the can insides the on to regular glueing

    Raymond
    Last edited by Slapshot; 03-12-2012 at 07:39 AM.

  14. #2294
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    Jan 2011
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    Went to Slot Car Raceway, Site of the Paul Gawronski Memorial Pit Space complete with Third Eye Technology banner and dedicated two tube flourescent lighting system and dedicated pit table. Set up my boxes in a normal pit space and started the test session to see how the F1 cars were working. Hermanator was on a different agenda testing 1/24 ES, a new Castricone chassis.

    Using the orange handled Speedshop controller set at 18' choke (maximum on the controller) I went to work running first the Mack 1/32 F1. All I can say is the car is super stable. The track had not been cleaned since the big NORCAL race the week before, so the track condition was far from ideal for testing 1/32 F1, but at least I could get an idea of how the Mack compared to the Horky car. Whatever it was about the track conditions, the Mack worked far better than the Horky which really did not like the track condition. Managed a 4.83 on orange with the Mack car and low 4.9s with Horky.

    Next, Hermanator got the idea of adding more choke and luckily Russ Toy was in the building. Hermanator asked Russ if we could borrow his very cool circuit board choke which is so small you can almost fit it in your wallet....and it works great! Anyway, the F1 cars liked more choke.

    Yesterday worked on new bodies I picked up at Slot Car Raceway. This time I tried hand painting the white areas of the Ferrari and air brushing the red. It was somewhat successful, but I do not call myself much of a body painter. Here are my limited results:


    photo-28 by svtgeorge, on Flickr
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  15. #2295
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slapshot View Post
    SCR: Tell FX or george about this...
    Thanks for that comprehensive tutorial on magnet removal Raymond. I will certainly take you up on that the next time I have to knock out some Skinner magnets. One thing I would disagree with is how you refer to "Skinner/Koford glue"....no, no, no, no, no the two glues are apples and oranges, day and night, Ferrari and McLaren....the Skinner takes much, much more heat to remove than Koford. With Koford glue, if it hasn't already almost fallen out by itself, only takes less than a minute with a soldering iron. I don't use it anymore unless it is for a temporary test. Skinner Epoxy, Don't Leave Home Without It....
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

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