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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #2461
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    127
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg N View Post
    I think that the Czechs use a high quality epoxy made by Uhu, a German glue manufacturer. This would suggest the use of jb weld here in the US. Epoxy has the huge advantage of plasticity/flexibility over the much more brittle super glue. The Czechs also have gears without a set screw, I think. I like the idea of one time aluminum setscrews while gluing, but you'd want to measure the axle run-out before and after setting the set screw.

    Looks like I'll be in the market for a small lathe. Are there good choices other than the Unimat? Wallbasher, you know a lot about this stuff, what do you think? (Wallbasher is a machinist when he's not racing toy cars.) Can you use these small lathes to more exactly machine 2 mm arms down to 1.5 mm?

    Greg
    That Uhu glue is an epoxy and is available in shops that deal with model helicopters. I have the product number around somewhere if you need it.

    For a lathe, I think a used Sherline from ebay is your best bet. Lots of tooling available which is almost as important as the machine itself. To cut the shaft of an armature down to 1.5mm I mounted a brass plate with a bearing on a part called a "steady rest" and grind the shaft with a pneumatic die grinder mounted in the cross- slide. I have a similar setup for the big O.D. grinder I use for armatures. No easy fix here. Messing with machine tools - even small ones - is a hobby in itself.

    Bill
    Last edited by oldweirdherald; 04-14-2012 at 06:27 AM. Reason: fixed quote tag

  2. #2462
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
    Posts
    155
    I thought the part on gluing the spur gear vs the set screw is that the set screw forces the gear to one side of the axle, thus creating a "run-out" issue- is this true? or is it the set screw weighs more than the aluminum does? or both, or or or or or....

    bert
    Asking all things relevant-

  3. #2463
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    127
    The UHU epoxy is called "PLUS ENDFEST 300"

    The gears made for glueing onto the axle are available from:

    Vitula Slotracing Products

    Miroslav Vitula, Teyschlova 21
    CZ-635 00 Brno, Czech republic

    email: mv.vitula@gmail.com

  4. #2464
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    We've been doing this for a year and a third, and I don't know if you have noticed, but this is a forum where I really don't know much, but I present a problem, and then I get the answers from the true experts. Let's see:

    1) Oil hardened drill blanks (McMasters, home of the Little Gus)
    2) Uhu-I-See-U! GLUE (hmmm, probably McMasters too?)
    3) Vitula gears (cool, a gmail account)

    OK, got my answers, time to order the stuff!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  5. #2465
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    Is this the stuff???
    http://stores.restorersupplies.com/-...UHU+Plus+Epoxy

    I wonder if I can get Vitula on Amazon.com.....
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #2466
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Auburn,Wa
    Posts
    1,640
    SCR thats the same UHU..

    Prior to glueing Aluminium hub gear can be pre-treated using a process called pickling. The parts are soaked in a caustic diluted sulphuric acid or similar solution for 20-25 minutes. Post pickling the aluminum part should be washed very compleatly and dried well.

    I think after reading the very similar tensil strenth and heat comparison of UHU and JB weld I would go with the JB weld just because I am familiar and trust it. Being that the gear and axle is near minimal heat sometimes, JB weld might have better qualities. Then again we are talking maybe onetime operation at most on a gear so heat resistance is neglagible. Both take a good 15-24 hrs to fully cure to strength even with heat cure speeding up the process. A small heat lamp instead of a baking oven is optional.

    Dimpling or random minimal flat spoting the axle or gear inside would give a crevice for epoxy to axle for a better bond. Then again that would upset the delicate balance that SCR is trying so hard to accomplish using the balancer.

    FYI: Cutting the hub on the gear can go as far as tubing dia or cut off compleatly and use a aluminum washer or tires with long turned down hub nub instead. For strength a angled or curved taper cut would be avantagous against gear Hubnub bending or wobble.

    Of course don't listen to me as I have been lazy lately using the old school unbalanced setscrew to flattened axle out of the box method.

    Raymond
    Last edited by Slapshot; 04-13-2012 at 04:31 PM.

  7. #2467
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    I got in touch with Mr. Vitula and found he sells a 43T and a 45T spur. He apologized for not selling a 44T! That's OK, many racers are using a filed down 45T now. Certainly his gears are worth considering, but there are Red Fox and Camen gears available too....and easily available. Piero sent me confirmation that it is the UHU 300 Plus epoxy he uses. Then to make matters even more interesting, Dave Harvey emailed me saying that Loctite 648 is the way to go, and he added that this should be used on an axle with no preparation other than cleaning with acetone. Here's the specs on Loctite 648: http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_da...g_Compound.pdf

    I had been using Loctite 638 on Richard Mack's recommendation, but with limited success.....25% failure rate is my guess.

    http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/638-EN.PDF

    This is all going to take some more R&D.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  8. #2468
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Auburn,Wa
    Posts
    1,640
    I match your Loctite 648 and raise you an UHU-300 PDF.

    http://www.supermagnete.de/docs/uhu_...st_300_eng.pdf

    RB

  9. #2469
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    621
    use this as it sets and is ready in 4 minutes and you will not break it.

    Ive seen it used on a top alcohol dragsters block and it held.

  10. #2470
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    621
    woops...forgot the link.......

    http://www.jbweld.net/products/jbkwik.php

  11. #2471
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    The more research I do on this gear gluing, the more interesting it gets. I heard from two different sources today. One uses UHU on the gear axle and actually uses the Loctite 648 ON PINION GEARS! The other source uses the Loctite 648 with just one drop on the axle and one drop inside the gear....he spreads it using just a pin, then slides them together.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  12. #2472
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    SCR
    1 question about this gluing of gears . What happens when you do strip a gear do you have to cut the axle apart to get it out and how do you get the new 1 in with the gear glued to it already .I know the idea is to stabilize the gear from slippage but seems to me its a 1 way trip.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  13. #2473
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NorthWesterner now in Philippines
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    9,531
    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    SCR
    1 question about this gluing of gears . What happens when you do strip a gear do you have to cut the axle apart to get it out and how do you get the new 1 in with the gear glued to it already .I know the idea is to stabilize the gear from slippage but seems to me its a 1 way trip.
    Simple! you merely take the right wheel off, and slide the entire rear axle/gear/wheel assembly out! (DOH!)

    (careful not to glue the gear or axle to the bearing... don't ask me how I know!)

    It is actually faster to change an entire rear axle/gear/wheel as an assembly - then to just change the gear anyway.

    You have your spares set up with the left tire already installed on the axle w/gear, and the right tire ready with allen wrench already inserted (have your second allen wrench in hand to remove the first right tire).

    This gives you a new axle/gear, and tires - which besides replacing the munched gear, also takes care of any possible bent axle or rims at the same time.

    I've seen Paul Ciccarello do it while dropping only two laps in a Eurosport race... but I've also watched Craig "flyracing" Rieland do it just about as fast, many times.
    Last edited by oldweirdherald; 04-17-2012 at 03:38 AM.
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    Paul Kassens
    OWH Slot Car Talk "Mom"
    The Old Weird Herald
    email: paulk@oldweirdherald.com

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  14. #2474
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    My bad I was thinking f-1 not 1/24 euro Thanks for setting me straight your right ( DUH)
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  15. #2475
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Rotterdam, The Netherlands
    Posts
    55
    Quote Originally Posted by oldweirdherald View Post
    You have your spares set up with the left tire already installed on the axle w/gear, and the right tire ready with allen wrench already inserted (have your second allen wrench in hand to remove the first right tire).

    Hi Paul, I'm running an ASP4 Chassis with a standard PS2107.
    I have a angled pinion and a straight gear at the axle but if the axle is in the chassis i cant slide the gear on to it.
    Does this mean my motor is at a wrong angle or has this to do with you guys talking about eurosport?


    thanks
    Mini Racing Team Uden
    http://www.mrtu.nl/

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