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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #2611
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    Auburn,Wa
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    Richard:

    The Flats is as Jim related. Short for "American Flat Track Worlds" started out I believe 2002 at South Hill Slots for three years and progress to Lee Gilbert's Speedshop MTT. It is his program run by various raceways. When Lee closed his shop the race was held at Mid America then Buena Park followed to its current residence at Pacific Slot Car Raceway (PSCR).
    It is held under the PNWAMCA rules and involves several popular classes up to 1/32 and 1/24th Eurosport.
    FYI: i believe if I recall correctly your Mack chassis won the 1/24th Eurosport first place podium two years at PSCR. I know Gary Johnson won with a George Russel built up Mack RTR...shameless plug

    Paul may post links to the photo gallery.

    Raymond
    Last edited by Slapshot; 05-17-2012 at 09:28 PM. Reason: dislexic on years

  2. #2612
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    Jun 2002
    Location
    Wellington, New Zealand
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    4,495
    "The Flats" - my only claim to fame
    Zippity

    "Rules are written by FEAR; and that Racers are motivated by the Fear that somebody may have something that gives others an Edge." - Rocky Russo



  3. #2613
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    Jun 2002
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    Auburn,Wa
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    Oh yeah forgot Zippity coined the term Flats...

    RB

  4. #2614
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    Jun 2002
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    Wellington, New Zealand
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    And I "attended" the 2003 Flats. To say I competed would be a misnomer

    Oh how I'd love to compete/visit again
    Zippity

    "Rules are written by FEAR; and that Racers are motivated by the Fear that somebody may have something that gives others an Edge." - Rocky Russo



  5. #2615
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Richmond, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr.nuke View Post
    Any questions? Doctors only.

    I see eight JK Products chassis, a couple of Kellys, a bunch of Champion Turboflex chassis. Notice some have metal hubs and some have plastic hubs. I find the variety of leadwire fascinating, especially the JK chassis in the upper right, has some kind of weird looking motor in it and might run on bluetooth. Some leadwire is the Alpha white, some is the TQ clear insulation, some TQ black/grey insulation, there's one with Koford or Slick 7 leadwire. Some leadwire is tied with small electrical tie, some with tape, some is simply looped, some is looped simply. Then there are all the motor boxes that apparently have motors in them. I don't want to guess what's in those boxes, probably one of those things best left alone. Car on the lower left corner is a Plafit Cheetah. That's cool. Looks like some kind of reserved parking sticker on the back of the rearview mirror, number 0125, I can't imagine what that is all about. OK, back to "work".
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #2616
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    Jun 2002
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    NorthWesterner now in Philippines
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    9,535
    Ya know... I did notice the wide variety of chassis and motors... and even the lead wires... but I didn't look nearly as closely as you did!
    (nice detective work SR!)

    I thought it looked sorta like Lee's car in his garage... 'cuz the shelves looked kinda familiar. So I was guessing it might be a batch of Dr. Nuke's cars sent in for a rebuild.

    But I just noticed something rather significant that neither of us mentioned yet... perhaps even more significan then the Cheetah motor & TurboFlex chassis...

    Front wheels!!!

    Now I'm even more puzzled!
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    Paul Kassens
    OWH Slot Car Talk "Mom"
    The Old Weird Herald
    email: paulk@oldweirdherald.com

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  7. #2617
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    Jan 2011
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    Richmond, CA
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    You're right, just about every one of those cars has fronts! Surely they would have nothing to do with Seattle. NORCAL requires real front wheels. That reminds me, going up to The Flats I will pull all the fronts off my flexis. Today I rebuilt my GTP from the Nats, mounted a new Starfighter on it. Got the rear of it as low as possible, had to hack away at the front bussbar quite a bit. Cut the comm on the S16C arm and triple zapped the .500L Koford mags, put on new shunts and broke it in. Sounds healthy again. I realized that USRA GTP is just the same thing as PNW AMCA Group 10! Seems like the rules have been ramping up in Seattle, I don't remember ultra high downforce bodies and the S16C motor before.....thought the body was limited to O/S 068 and Contenders. Anyway, I think I'll go back to the slot room and rebuild the Contender I ran at Fresno, it was really fast. Add shunts and put it into a flexi chassis, add a Starfighter and we have another GTP, I mean Group 10...
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  8. #2618
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Central Ca.
    Posts
    75
    Is there a Magnet for a c-can that you can buy for .540 arm? I see some magnets have there thickness listed it would be nice to buy a magnet that you don't have to have 3 or 4 hones to open the airgap up to accept a .540 arm.
    Go fast or go Home.

  9. #2619
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    Jan 2011
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    Richmond, CA
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    We're just finishing up the eclipse. Our house is about 200 miles south of the best place to observe, Redding, CA. I decided to fire up the barbeque and have a barbequed eclipse. Made a T bone for wife and a turkey burger for myself. The big beagle is working on the bone during the height of the eclipse, so dark the flash went off

    DSCN4650 by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    Took a photo of the yard, kinda dark, that's our Giant Sequoia that I grew from a seed, it's only nine years old and 20' tall already

    DSCN4651 by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    We had a piece of paper with a pinhole....this is the best we could do against the stucco of the house


    DSCN4652 by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    And finally, a portrait of wife and I where we noticed the strange optical effect of our shadows


    DSCN4653 by svtgeorge, on Flickr
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  10. #2620
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    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin Brian View Post
    Is there a Magnet for a c-can that you can buy for .540 arm? I see some magnets have there thickness listed it would be nice to buy a magnet that you don't have to have 3 or 4 hones to open the airgap up to accept a .540 arm.
    OK, getting back to slotcar racing. The Sun is interesting, but kind of ho hum. So Brian, there really is no magnet made that is thin enough. Even the old Mura set ups I seem to remember came with a .538" airgap. Most of the magnets made nowadays were originally for .513/.518 arms. The .540" arms only came out about 3-4 years ago, I forget exactly when, but the magnets we use were designed a very long time ago, long before man invented fire. I think you could manage to get by with two hones, a .540 and a .560, but use lots of cold water and take your time. I use a .535" first, then a .550" and finish up with the .560". Yeah, I know, that's about $120 worth of hones, but it's worth it!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  11. #2621
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
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    804
    Here's something you might want to try, I did it and the results were very good. I installed new Cahozza T5 magnets in a Koford UL can using a thin layer of Koford magnet epoxy and the Wright Way magnet wedges. Without removing any magnet material the hole was a loose .540. By installing the magnets using wedges instead of a slug you get parallel magnet tips and constant pressure against the magnets during the baking process. It also allows for the largest hole possible before you begin the honing process there by minimumizing the amount of magnet material removed during the honing process. So if your using thinner magnets then the Cahozza, they are somewhat thick, you may be able to acheive a larger hole without any honing at all. I believe the thinnest magnets that may work would be the Mega II & III depending on what size your looking for. I only use this process for flat track motors because of the large arm diameters and bigger air gaps. I believe SCR runs .518 arms with .540 holes and they do just fine, right George.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  12. #2622
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Freddie View Post
    Here's something you might want to try, I did it and the results were very good. I installed new Cahozza T5 magnets in a Koford UL can using a thin layer of Koford magnet epoxy and the Wright Way magnet wedges. Without removing any magnet material the hole was a loose .540. By installing the magnets using wedges instead of a slug you get parallel magnet tips and constant pressure against the magnets during the baking process. It also allows for the largest hole possible before you begin the honing process there by minimumizing the amount of magnet material removed during the honing process. So if your using thinner magnets then the Cahozza, they are somewhat thick, you may be able to acheive a larger hole without any honing at all. I believe the thinnest magnets that may work would be the Mega II & III depending on what size your looking for. I only use this process for flat track motors because of the large arm diameters and bigger air gaps. I believe SCR runs .518 arms with .540 holes and they do just fine, right George.
    I'm gonna get me a pair of them thar Wright Way magnet wedgies. I saw those on Jim's website yesterday and thought to myself "that's a brilliant idea". I think magnets on the market now are from .155"-.165". Not sure I'd want to use a K UL can, that would mean using something other than a Cahoza can which are God's creation of perfection!! But, if saving $40-$80 for a couple of hones is the goal, then this sounds like a good method. Seems to me if you are really a serious motor builder you will invest in the hones. You can also send your motors out to have them honed for not much money....but then again, if you are really a serious motor builder you will invest in the hones. I've been doing more and more work with 16D motors lately, so I know it is time to invest in some big Carlisle steel slugs.....570, .575 and .580 and probably purchase a .580 hone. Again, if you are really a serious motor builder you will invest in the hones.

    Fred, I have only run .540" arms since around 2009, although when NORCAL only allowed the small arms I had a few motors to play with those guys. This last season they opened up to the big arms though which was great.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  13. #2623
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Central Ca.
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    75
    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    I'm gonna get me a pair of them thar Wright Way magnet wedgies. I saw those on Jim's website yesterday and thought to myself "that's a brilliant idea". I think magnets on the market now are from .155"-.165". Not sure I'd want to use a K UL can, that would mean using something other than a Cahoza can which are God's creation of perfection!! But, if saving $40-$80 for a couple of hones is the goal, then this sounds like a good method. Seems to me if you are really a serious motor builder you will invest in the hones. You can also send your motors out to have them honed for not much money....but then again, if you are really a serious motor builder you will invest in the hones. I've been doing more and more work with 16D motors lately, so I know it is time to invest in some big Carlisle steel slugs.....570, .575 and .580 and probably purchase a .580 hone. Again, if you are really a serious motor builder you will invest in the hones.

    Fred, I have only run .540" arms since around 2009, although when NORCAL only allowed the small arms I had a few motors to play with those guys. This last season they opened up to the big arms though which was great.
    I don't know I'm a serious motor builder yet but with resourses being limited I will use the wedges. I have some .155 magnets I test fitted them in my Cahoosa setup and it was .555. I can buy 1 hone to gat started I was thinking about .565 or a .570 to start? I have a Koford feather fred honed for me and I have a .540 contender in it and I will try at our local race next thursday. I should have ran it at the NORCAL race but It didnt sound that good then I played with it last week and it came too life It sounded way better then the motor I raced at NORCAL!
    Go fast or go Home.

  14. #2624
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
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    1,201
    brain the .565 hole with t-5's seem to be the most popular hole size here on the east coast .570 is a little big .570 makes for a real good JRL motor not b production .
    Motors By Mic B
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  15. #2625
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Wow, .565"? Seems big. I use .560" and I think George does too. I tried a .555" and it just wasn't right. I might have to get a .565" hone and try it on one of my motors. I got by with just a .560" hone for quite a while before I broke down and got the hones in between. As George stated, do your honing under running water and go slow with light pressure. Yes it will wear out the hone faster but it does work.

    I picked up a set of those wedges at the Nats when I saw Frank had a set in the case. I think I'll be trying them out soon as I have a couple of motors that need the magnets redone as they came loose on me.

    There is no way I would use one of those floppy Koford cans unless it was for qualifying only. The one I have is so soft it deforms just looking at it. I do have one of the thicker ones in my Box 12 car and it was a missile and seems much stronger as well.

    Hey George, you have a Unimat, why not make your own slugs? Your local Lowes should have 5/8" and 3/4" steel bar stock 3' long for less than $10. Hack a piece off and turn it to size on the Unimat. Yeah, it'll be slow going, but it will do the job.

    Like George, I really like the Cahoza setups. What I'm not liking about them is the end bell hardware. I really wish Cahoza offered up copper hardware. I would switch all my motors to that in a heartbeat! The plated aluminum is just too brittle and the vibrations of racing causes the negative side to break after a few races. My best S16C motor broke at the Nats and it only had 3 races on the hardware! Sheesh! I have old motors with Proslot endbells using the copper hardware that have hundreds of races on them. Besides, good clean copper is a far better conductor than the plated aluminum will ever be!
    Gary Johnson

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