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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #2746
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    some of the chumps here might need to learn how to solder

  2. #2747
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdC View Post
    some of the chumps here might need to learn how to solder
    Ed, you may want to be careful about who you think needs to learn to solder. How long does it take you to change a Group 7 motor during a race?
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  3. #2748
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    Jun 2005
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    What does soldering have to do with jb weld? lol
    James Grinstead

    TEAM KOFORD

    Why so serious?

  4. #2749
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdC View Post
    some of the chumps here might need to learn how to solder
    The only "chump" I know of here is Owl Chump... and he's been soldering slot car motors since the dinosaurs roamed the earth.

    He's probably built more motors then all of the rest of us put together!

    I think he knows a thing or two about epoxy and soldering.

    So... be careful who you call a "chump"!

    Of course you are free to do as you please on your own stuff... it's your motor and your race... but many people here listen to, learn from, respect, and appreciate the advice shared here by many top fellow builders and racers.

    PK
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    Paul Kassens
    OWH Slot Car Talk "Mom"
    The Old Weird Herald
    email: paulk@oldweirdherald.com

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  5. #2750
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86ed once again View Post
    What does soldering have to do with jb weld? lol
    Yes James, I was wondering about that too haaa haaaa haaaaaa. Hey, you know what, I just had a light bulb thanks to your comment on using the wedgies. You said it's hard to use them on Red Fox Silver Bullet can because of those dumb little metal thingies that stick out for now reason. Now I get it! You put the wedgies through the motor can hole, not inline like in my photo. Duh! So the Pro Slot VIP can would definitely not work with the wedgies!!! Freddie, it's making sense to me finally. Nobody showed me how to use the things, and no photos. Putting them through the can opening makes sense to me. I hope that's right. James, you gave me the right hint.

    I'm also gluing up an old set of junk magnets in a junk can using JB Weld this evening. Will let it cure for 24 hours, then hit it with my soldering iron and see how long they take to let go. May as well carry the experiment all the way to conclusion.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #2751
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    the 500 degree tolerance of JB weld is an immersion ratting based on time and not a spike rating which even that you will never meet with even a 90 watt iron.

    the condescending smug attitude regarding how to solder slot car motors was not even close to my original question of using an epoxy that didn't need heat to cure. The point of order of the topic was how did heat effect the magnets during the curing process for the skinner epoxy and that is the point I posed the question of using JB weld..... you should really climb off your high horse because you're sitting on it backwards.

  7. #2752
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    Last night I decided it was time to pull the motor out of my Horky 1/24 chassis, clean up the chassis and store it away until I get up to Seattle. Probably do the same to the Gugu Special. I know all that stuff works fine, just a matter of getting it on The Twister and figuring out which motor/chassis combo works the best. I'm never sure exactly why I use all my vacation time to go sit in a store with slotcar motors whining constantly, but there you have it. I guess it's fun. I know this year's Flat Track Worlds is gonna be a really good event.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  8. #2753
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdC View Post
    the condescending smug attitude regarding how to solder slot car motors was not even close to my original question of using an epoxy that didn't need heat to cure.

    ..... you should really climb off your high horse because you're sitting on it backwards.
    After reading your post, I went back and reread the previous posts. I know the typed word is often hard to determine attitude or intent, but the only posts that seemed to me to have a "smug attitude" were yours.

    As I said - go ahead and use the JB Weld if that is what you want to do. But several people here have given clear reasons, even admitting it may be over-kill, for liking the Skinner epoxy.

    My point is that the purpose of this forum is to share tips & advise with fellow slot car racers. If people share different methods of doing the same thing - then it gives us different options to choose from.

    Different strokes for different folks... but the more options we learn, then the more options we have to choose from.

    Puttin down others for taking the time to share their knowledge & experience, just because you may disagree with it... does not add anything constructive to the conversation.

    So please... enough with the posts about posts, smug attitude accusations, or calling people "chumps".
    Let's keep it friendly here, ok?

    Sorry Slotcar Racer... I know you were simply ignoring this and moving on... but I felt this needed a response - and sometimes I just can't restrain myself like you manage to do.

    Keep us posted on the JB Weld experiment.

    Back to you SR.
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    Paul Kassens
    OWH Slot Car Talk "Mom"
    The Old Weird Herald
    email: paulk@oldweirdherald.com

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  9. #2754
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    Thanks Mom.

    I've thought about taking apart the Gugu Special, but in hindsight I think I will leave it together and mount a new body on it. I have three Audi R10 (long Seattle version) painted and ready to go. I'm meeting with Justin and Mike up in Rocklin on Saturday. Hermanator and I are making it a road trip, that is if Hermanator gets clearance from the tower. When we get up there, we're going to build a Mack Bulldog 3 from the ground up, although I think Mike may already be finished with the motor. I kind of want to run the Gugu Special on the Rocklin flat track for giggles.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  10. #2755
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    Feb 2005
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    Chesapeake, Va.
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    Over the years I have used JB Weld and yes it does work for a time, but it is touch sensitive. What I mean by that is that you can't allow the soldering iron to linger in one spot for more than 5 seconds at a time or you'll weakin the epoxy and over time the magnet will come out. I have INT15 setups that I raced in 1992 and the JB Weld is still holding. Recently I started using Koford epoxy and so far no problems. Had to get a cheap toaster oven for the curing process.
    By the way has anybody noticed that when a magnet comes out using JB Weld that most of the epoxy is on the magnet and not the can? I think it's because the JB Weld epoxy is metallic or has some metal particles in it. Does that affect gauss at all? Does the Koford or Skinner epoxies have any metal in them? I think that using the wedges and applying constant pressure on the magnet against the can may help the epoxy penetrate the can wall more, giving a more uniform contact surface. When you use a slug there is no pressure on the magnet or the can wall they just sit there while the epoxy cures.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  11. #2756
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    Jun 2002
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    Glen Burnie, Md
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    Fred,

    I echo that. If you were racing with me at Mid-Atlantic venues during the 90s and thereafter, while using JB Weld, I was ejecting magnets (literally) left and right (Billy Dougherty was a constant witness). It was Roman who simply asked "..T..how long are taking to solder in your motors?". I think part of my problem was the soldering iron tip I was using had seen better days and wasn't generating adequate heat.

    Koford epoxy and better soldering techniques halted the ejections.

    Tony
    OWH Slotographer

  12. #2757
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    Apr 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdC View Post
    the 500 degree tolerance of JB weld is an immersion ratting based on time and not a spike rating which even that you will never meet with even a 90 watt iron.......
    Actually many solders have a melting point above 400*. My 45 watt Hakko has a tip rating of more than 800* while the old Ungar is more than 1000*
    Alan Ingram

  13. #2758
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    Aug 2010
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    Arizona
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    60/40 solder melts at less then 400F*... why would you use more heat then you need? a 40watt iron develops almost 900F* the transfer of heat will reduce the tip heat quickly based on mass. It's simple thermo dynamics.

  14. #2759
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    Apr 2012
    Location
    Citrus Heights, California
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    Motor not built yet George... Needs honing. :-) We've got all the parts though! From what I've heard, the MTT is going to get cleaned today. (It's only been 3 weeks or so...) Anyway, it may be a little loose Saturday since there likely won't be a lot of running in done before we get there Saturday... Can't wait to get a GT-12 built for Justin so he can get some track time with it. He had a blast in Vallejo running Jay's, even with the "Issues' Eddie had with the track.

    If things go well, the plan is for him to run the GT-12 at the Flat's, along with 4" NASCAR, Group 10, LMP and possibly a couple other classes... Those will be the main 4 though. Not expecting much, results wise, but it should be fun! It will certainly be good experience for him.
    Michael Colvin

  15. #2760
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
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    1,364
    Edc,

    Most of us use Staybrite 8 silver solder for our cobalt motors. it has a melting point of 430 degrees (very close to the 500 degree limit of JB Weld) as it has a 5x strength advantage over 60/40.
    Gary Johnson

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