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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #2821
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by jradford View Post
    Do you prefer cool ranch or nacho cheese?
    Come on Jim, you know I'm not a Nacho guy (they run Red Fox C Cans)....ALWAYS the Cool Ranch (Cahoza C Cans)
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  2. #2822
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    fairfield ca.
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    339
    on a serious note, I’m no engineer, but I would think the thread pattern on the nut and the guide would be different for them to work properly. A standard nut and bolt are designed to be tightened down all the way and to wedge against the threads. if these are not tightened in this way they would just spin off. with them being different they are always binding against the threads so at any point prior to bottoming they will be snug.

  3. #2823
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
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    155
    Peugeot
    Danger Will Robinson Danger! the Peugeot and the BD3 generally do not get a long very well- I know you will be testing anyway, but be mindful that new, straight, fast chassis my not come back from the random, high speed exits that may occur when the aforementioned products are mixed.
    Let me know how it turns out though!
    Asking all things relevant-

  4. #2824
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Wellington, New Zealand
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    4,495
    I find the GT1 Precision Guide Threading Tool the best

    I just add a drop of oil to the uncut guide post before I commence threading, and viola!!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Zippity

    "Rules are written by FEAR; and that Racers are motivated by the Fear that somebody may have something that gives others an Edge." - Rocky Russo



  5. #2825
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    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berteinstein View Post
    Danger Will Robinson Danger! the Peugeot and the BD3 generally do not get a long very well- I know you will be testing anyway, but be mindful that new, straight, fast chassis my not come back from the random, high speed exits that may occur when the aforementioned products are mixed.
    Let me know how it turns out though!
    Bert, Bert, Bert.....the Peugeot is on a X25/C11 pan flexi chassis with a Hawk 7 motor. Yes, I agree with the GT12 mismatch! Of all those USRA bodies I tried on GT12, I finally settled on the JK BMW at the Nats, and I think the Peugeot was towards the bottom of the totem pole. CRASH tried the Peugeot on the same flexi/mini motor combo in Fresno and said it was the best down there. However, not sure if he was on the Hellclimb or the Flat Track.
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  6. #2826
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    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
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    ...the Peugeot is on a X25/C11 pan flexi chassis with a Hawk 7 motor. Yes, I agree with the GT12 mismatch!
    Whew! For a minute there I thought I was loosing it! (not that I really had it anyway)

    I might have to give your combo a try- I think I have several "Phewgeots" lurking around in various corners of my office. We race that same "X25/C11 pan flexi chassis with a Hawk 7 motor" at the locally famous Carson Slorcar Raceway on Sunday afternoons. I have got to try something new down there, as my "better side" has been on the receiving end of Dr. Donn Raburns foot lately.

    Bert Bert Bert
    Asking all things relevant-

  7. #2827
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    Jan 2011
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    Richmond, CA
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    I headed over to my favorite ACE Hardware this morning
    photo-40
    I then proceeded to the threading dies in the tool dept
    photo-41
    The price was right, so I grabbed the last one, then I headed over to the screws
    photo-42
    I found nice stainless steel 10-32 bolts and the Koford guide nut fit perfectly. I purchased the bolt and the die and went home. Got out the old Pro Slot threader and...
    photo-43
    I think GearBear gets the prize for guessing the threads are worn out. Over many threadings since 1997, the die has spread out to a larger diameter. As you can see the bolt fits the threads, but so loosely it sags big time. Now I have to try starting the threads with the old Pro Slot threader, then run the new Irwin die on it.
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  8. #2828
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    Jan 2011
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    Another prize for GearBear...Peugeot in the trash can, BMW on the LMP.

    This evening at Slotcar Raceway we have USRA Champions Sebastian Alioto, Gary Hooks, Justin Colvin, Paul Gawronski, Frank Gawronski, Tracy Chin and Your Truly.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  9. #2829
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
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    A week before this last weekend I drove to Rocklin near Sacramento to help a racer build a Bulldog 3 chassis. While I was up there I tried out some cars on their teal colored flat track. We race on it in the NORCAL series. I remembered the braid is recessed a lot deeper than the Testarossa, so I added some .015" teflon spacers to the cars I ran. This included the one GT12 I have assembled right now. I got it down to the low 3.6s on green and remembered that was pretty good. I believe I ran a 3.50 on black during our last race.

    Fast forward to this past Saturday. I worked mostly on getting my new racer up to speed, except his GT12 motor blew up. First time I've ever seen a .540" arm go up in smoke, and it was really fast. Oh well, it's only thirty bucks. I put one of my own motors in the car for him so he could race. Then I built up my 4" NASCAR, this time with the X25 chassis with lightweight C11 pans. Ran 4.8s on the Blue King which seemed good to me, it handled really well. Then I worked on my Hawk 7 power X25/C11 with JK BMW body. That was after I attempted the Red Fox Peugeot which made the car handle like a rental car or something. Finally, I took out the GT12 and got it down to 3.59 on yellow and put it back in the box.

    Then, during the race, the car was absolutely undriveable. Yesterday afternoon I took the car apart to rebuild the motor and took apart the chassis to make sure it was straight. It was only then that when I removed the guide I saw a .005" teflon spacer AND the .015" spacer I had put in up in Rocklin. Dooooohhhhhhhhh!!!!! No wonder it didn't handle!!! Note to self: stop the stupid mistakes if you can....
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  10. #2830
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Citrus Heights, California
    Posts
    291
    George... Do you remember if you put the extra spacer in Justin's car? I haven't checked, but perhaps that was one of his issues also... Your car an his seemed to have issues in the same corners... Ok... Probably not, but I'm trying to give the kid at least one excuse. :-)
    Michael Colvin

  11. #2831
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Roseville, CA
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    146
    Guide spacing technology at it's best. I always blow that when going between the two locations. At least we have all these tracks to frequent. I personally had a .010 in my bd3. When I get too low, I end up with the positive braid degradation... I love that word. Now off to watch the F1 race.
    Jay Herrod

  12. #2832
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    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeC View Post
    George... Do you remember if you put the extra spacer in Justin's car? I haven't checked, but perhaps that was one of his issues also... Your car an his seemed to have issues in the same corners... Ok... Probably not, but I'm trying to give the kid at least one excuse. :-)
    I recall your's needed two .005" spacers. I set it up specifically for Frank's track. My other "excuse" was I put on a new set of tires with Proformance donuts before the race, but didn't run them in. These tend to be high grip rubber, and the track was very tight....you were also running Proformance rubber, so that could have been the problem. Also, when I was checking my car yesterday trying to figure out why it didn't handle, I could still slide a .032" tech tool under the rear of the car!!!! For me, it was just a stupid series of bad judgments on car set up. As always, I learned a lot from it. Oh, one more thing, you might try soldering in the weights on your car. This would be good for training purposes. I ran most of the NORCAL series with exactly the same set up you have, with no weights.
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  13. #2833
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    TEXAS
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    329

    Guide Threader

    I too have the same Purple Threader but mine came direct from the Czech Republic in 1993, it is still very sharper and cuts better than any of the new ones.
    I believe the differences is the threader is Metric and the Nuts are not, thus they are difficult to start and get straight but it is also the reason they usually stay tight especially with the Red Fox guides which have a slightly larger post.
    Tapering the post prior to threading is an excellent idea.
    I have always been one that worried about getting the guide perfect and exact in the flatness and tightness, then I watch one of the best Racers in the world and his guide is loose and the nut is not perfectly tight and has a little wobble. I don't know if his Scale cars are the same but his Wing car is setup like this.
    No super glue to hold the nut just melt the top of the post with Iron.

  14. #2834
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    Quote Originally Posted by tnttires View Post
    I too have the same Purple Threader but mine came direct from the Czech Republic in 1993, it is still very sharper and cuts better than any of the new ones.
    I believe the differences is the threader is Metric and the Nuts are not, thus they are difficult to start and get straight but it is also the reason they usually stay tight especially with the Red Fox guides which have a slightly larger post.
    Tapering the post prior to threading is an excellent idea.
    I have always been one that worried about getting the guide perfect and exact in the flatness and tightness, then I watch one of the best Racers in the world and his guide is loose and the nut is not perfectly tight and has a little wobble. I don't know if his Scale cars are the same but his Wing car is setup like this.
    No super glue to hold the nut just melt the top of the post with Iron.
    Got an email from Richard, he says they use an M5 metric screw in the UK, and I would suppose in the rest of Europe. Topkat mentioned earlier that it is better if the threads do not match so the guide nut doesn't come loose.

    I threaded a new Cahoza guide on Sunday starting with my Pro Slot/JK/Czech mid 90s guide threader. It really works well in terms of getting a straight thread started, and it's a 10-32 thread. As I posted earlier, next I used the Irwin 10-32 thread die and took it down as far as I could.....the die is basically a large nut about 3/4" across, so it won't go any farther than the top of the guide. However, that is enough threading that the Koford (or other brands) easily threads on to the guide post. I wrenched the guide nut down until the guide post was actually above the top of the nut, then it hit the threading which Mr. Irwin had not cut into. From that point, I used my big guide nut wrench and continued to cut the deeper threads with the guide nut itself. This seems to be working really well, so I think I will just continue with this procedure.
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  15. #2835
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    Just my 2 cent worth .
    I have a GT1 flag threader and have no problems . first I oil the flag post then start the threading I cut a full turn then back off a 1/4 to half turn this step allows the cuts to break off Then repeat until done .This is how we did all threading back in the day when I was an apprentice tool & die maker.
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