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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #2941
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Roseville, CA
    Posts
    146
    SCR, when baking with the slug, do you have the endbell in the setup as well???? Just curious?
    Jay Herrod

  2. #2942
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Citrus Heights, California
    Posts
    291
    Damn.... I just picked up the wedges while in Washington... George... Curious... Did you have the can sitting bearing/bushing side up/endbell down, or sitting "horizontal" while baking? The last few I did (Prior to getting the wedges) with slugs, I baked with the can laying down on my baking tray... I can see how with the wedges this might be hard to do though.

    FYI Jay, I've been using an endbell when using the slugs. I was suprised the thing didn't melt, but it seems to have held up fine. I've got one endbell, just for that purpose... Not sure if it's a good idea or not, but at least it didn't melt! I believe it's a Proslot endbell.
    Michael Colvin

  3. #2943
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    I picked up the wedges when I was down at Franks for the Nat's. Go figure!

    I used them the week before the Flats and didn't have the issue George did but can see why it might happen. If you don't press the wedges really tight, they might come loose as the glue thins out from the heat. So laying the can on its side in the oven made sense to me so that is what I did. I kind of liked the wedges. I've been thinking for a while now of making some of the slugs like the R-Geo Magic tool I have. The one I have is for a .530 hole, but I would like to have several of them in the various hone sizes I have. That way, re-gluing magnets and installing bearings is a synch.
    Gary Johnson

  4. #2944
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    806
    I think you need to understand, as we discussed before, that the wedges work best with new magnets or magnets that have been honed to a diameter smaller than you intend to go to (.528 to.560). I have never used Skinner epoxy so I don't know how thin it is but if it's thinner than the Koford then you need to make sure the wedges are very tight in the setup so they don't move. I always bake my magnets in with the endbell removed and endbell side down. I also have never had a problem using the wedges and install all my new magnets using them for air gaps of .533 and larger. If you intend on using smaller air gaps it's best to use a slug. I also always prefit different magnet sets (of the same brand) in different cans (of the same brand) to get the best unhoned hole. This way I retain most of the magnet material. I have actually hit .533 and .535 in several setups without any honing at all. I match up setups of .540+ for my .560 holes so less material is removed. I think that once you get the hang of using the wedges you'll like the precise alignment of the magnet tips they provide. Its the easiest way to get the max out of the magnets.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  5. #2945
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Last night I put the Skinner epoxy on the rear magnet, and some inside the can which had been cross hatched, of course. Put the magnet in the can, but as much as I tried, I could not get the .560 slug in there. Jay, if I had been able to get Mr. Slug in there, I would have also used the endbell for alignment. Anyway, not able to fit Mr. Slug in the hole, so no problem, let's try the wedges again, after all this is all about learning things.

    Per MikeC's questions above, I wedged those wedgies in really tight and put it in the over in such a way that gravity would have a minimum effect. Well, around 9pm after 1 1/2 hours of baking, I inspected it and it had not moved. So, I think the next set of magnets will probably be Hermanator's, he called last night and said he has about 3 Cahoza production set ups and wants them reglued. So, we'll give it a go again with those three set ups.

    Also I did a super duper clean up on my 2007 and 2008 Horky 1/32 ES chassis. Gonna take some photos and email to Recek to get some replacement parts. The parts that get the most massacred are the little bits up front, the hinge bits. Photos with arrows pointing to the injured parts. I have been running those chassis with success, but with home made piano wire fabrications as replacements. More news at 11....
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #2946
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    45
    George, what we need is for some talented person to design an externally expandable slug so that you can precisely lock in the magnet(s) prior to baking. The wedges work, but it is easy to disturb the magnets sometimes. Something like a miniature automotive cam bearing tool....????

  7. #2947
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    621
    two opposing tappered slugs one that a screw passes through and the other threaded.... as you turn the screw the opposinng slug will close the gap

  8. #2948
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    EdC,

    The problem with that idea is that the tapered slug will only contact the magnets in one place unless the slug is the same diameter as the hole. What we really need is an expanding collet that will put equal pressure throughout the magnet while you expand it. With the tapered slugs I would bet that you will break almost as many magnets as you try to glue in.

    Essentially, turn a piece on a lathe to the desired size, then bore a taper in each end. Drill through all the way. Now slit each end in an X pattern that is offset from each other (or maybe 6 slots per side, the more slots, the more concentric). Now make tapered wedges with one threaded and the other a hole for the bolt. To use, put the magnets on the collet, insert into the can and tighten the bolt.

    This would not be a hard tool to make. But I think you would need multiple sizes as I don't think you can make it expand too far. Maybe a few thou at best.
    Gary Johnson

  9. #2949
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    621
    see if this link to photo works

    http://www.diseno-art.com/images_3/pipe_expander.jpg


    Quote Originally Posted by GearBear View Post
    EdC,

    The problem with that idea is that the tapered slug will only contact the magnets in one place unless the slug is the same diameter as the hole. What we really need is an expanding collet that will put equal pressure throughout the magnet while you expand it. With the tapered slugs I would bet that you will break almost as many magnets as you try to glue in.

    Essentially, turn a piece on a lathe to the desired size, then bore a taper in each end. Drill through all the way. Now slit each end in an X pattern that is offset from each other (or maybe 6 slots per side, the more slots, the more concentric). Now make tapered wedges with one threaded and the other a hole for the bolt. To use, put the magnets on the collet, insert into the can and tighten the bolt.

    This would not be a hard tool to make. But I think you would need multiple sizes as I don't think you can make it expand too far. Maybe a few thou at best.

  10. #2950
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    back in the day when I was an apprentice tool and die maker we had adjustable reams you could only expand them about .010
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  11. #2951
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Quote Originally Posted by EdC View Post
    Yes, that is essentially what I was talking about. Although Pipe Expanders are typically much larger
    Gary Johnson

  12. #2952
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    My Czech language skills are very, very bad. No, actually non-existent. So, I really want to get replacement bits for my two 1/32 Horky ES chassis, one is a 2007, the other a 2008. Managed to get Recek's email, so this was the best I could do

    DSCN4712
    DSCN4714
    DSCN4713

    Meanwhile, back at the epoxy oven in the garage, pulled the set up out and the wedgies were still in there nice and tight, rear magnet did not move, yippee!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  13. #2953
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    621
    stuff like this scares me..... lol

    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    My Czech language skills are very, very bad. No, actually non-existent. So, I really want to get replacement bits for my two 1/32 Horky ES chassis, one is a 2007, the other a 2008. Managed to get Recek's email, so this was the best I could do

    DSCN4712
    DSCN4714
    DSCN4713

    Meanwhile, back at the epoxy oven in the garage, pulled the set up out and the wedgies were still in there nice and tight, rear magnet did not move, yippee!

  14. #2954
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    806
    Just baked some magnets in today myself and no slippage. They came out perrrfect. Oh and by the way I think I just may have stumbled on to a cure for the problem with Proslot .540 45* arms needing push starts. While using vertical brushes work it's not the only way. I worked out a comparison problem and the minimum north to south magnet tip gap should be .305. I have 4 new Koford Ultralite setups with new T5 magnets and only 2 of them have a .305+ gap, the other 2 have a .285-.290 gap and that I know will not work. There is also one other problem. Since they are in Ultralite cans the magnet pad is too low which causes the brushes to ride too high on the comutator. I prefer mine centered. I now have to remove those magnets and either install them in the new Red Fox cans I have or get new Featherlite cans. I'll probably use what I have. My guess is that the magnet pads on the Cahozza cans are also high like the Featherlite and Proslots.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  15. #2955
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    426
    Using the smiley faces is too funny... LOL

    LM

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