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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #286
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    I am reading all your posts guys and all I can say is, I'm learning a lot, and thanks for getting into the nitty gritty details of true slotcar racing. This is what it's all about!!! YEAH! OK, I'm back at work today. Not bad. Doesn't look like things got too out of control. Yesterday when I felt a lot better I installed a Valiko 23t25 into one of the "bulked up" Gulliver set ups I have. O.D. of can is .600" (versus the usual .630" for small blocks) 455T X 300L quads.....I punched it out to .491". Much reduced magnet mass, but I have put it in my Horky ES32 and will test on Sunday. I believe this type of set up may be a very good formula. Up until now, we've just been using the old single mag small block with .300"L Valiko arms. With the Nats less than a month away, there's not a lot of testing time left. See ya Sunday Frank O.

  2. #287
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    566
    I just use a full sheet of open news paper & when I'm done I clean my machine & fold it up with the stuff in the center & throw it away.
    Why do I do this to myself?

  3. #288
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    127
    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    I am reading all your posts guys and all I can say is, I'm learning a lot, and thanks for getting into the nitty gritty details of true slotcar racing. This is what it's all about!!! YEAH! OK, I'm back at work today. Not bad. Doesn't look like things got too out of control. Yesterday when I felt a lot better I installed a Valiko 23t25 into one of the "bulked up" Gulliver set ups I have. O.D. of can is .600" (versus the usual .630" for small blocks) 455T X 300L quads.....I punched it out to .491". Much reduced magnet mass, but I have put it in my Horky ES32 and will test on Sunday. I believe this type of set up may be a very good formula. Up until now, we've just been using the old single mag small block with .300"L Valiko arms. With the Nats less than a month away, there's not a lot of testing time left. See ya Sunday Frank O.
    With a .480 dia. Valiko arm you have a lot riding on not having that arm swell. I hope you will tell us how it went.
    We find a lot of promise in a .500 dia arm with less metal in the lamination AND a set-up with less magnet mass
    but a more forgiving air gap. (I have assumed you did not grind down your Valiko arm.)

  4. #289
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Lexington Park, MD
    Posts
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by Wallbasher View Post
    I just use a full sheet of open news paper & when I'm done I clean my machine & fold it up with the stuff in the center & throw it away.
    What is this newspaper that you speak of? Can the news be found places other than the internet?

    I guess I'm right around that age where newspapers are hit or miss. I would guess people 5 years younger than me have never even read one. Don't fear though, I still read real books, hardbacks even. This whole digital book thing just doesn't light my fire. There is just something elegant about a nice hardback book sitting on a shelf.

  5. #290
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    566
    To be honest I should have called them what they really are. Bird Cage liners.
    Why do I do this to myself?

  6. #291
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Lexington Park, MD
    Posts
    207
    So I'm sitting here at work and thinking about tires. I've made two different sets: .660" on a .430" hub and .660" on a .400" hub. This means the .400" hub tire has .015" more rubber to it even though the outer diameter is the same. I'm trying to noodle out what effect this .015" (11.5%) will have on performance.

    My thoughts so far:

    More rubber = more weight = softer = more traction = more friction = slower = faster tire ware

    Less rubber = less weight = harder = less traction = less friction = faster = slower tire ware

    A .660" tire on a .400" hub should perform the same as a .645" tire on a .430" hub if the rubber was exactly the same?

    Thoughts? I must be pretty bored today...
    Last edited by Reaper802; 03-09-2011 at 01:40 PM.

  7. #292
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    I only have seven pairs of glasses to grind this afternoon, so I'm with you Rocky. I'll just share my background with Speedshop racing. We've run .500" hubs on flexicars and .400" hubs on everything else. Hermanator products have trended towards a larger hub although I think that company also produces a smaller hub....correct me if I'm wrong. My thinking goes this way: larger hub has less rolling resistance and also tends to be less forgiving compared to the .400". Example: I have tried the .500" hubs on JRL and liked some aspects of it, slightly faster lap times but not as driveable. The .400" hubs on same JRL is much more forgiving, easier to drive and therefore easier to race. If I were trying the .430" hubs, I would put those on cars where my rear axle is jigged for something like a 42 tooth 72 pitch spur, that's about a .670ish tire. For cars jigged to 40T 72 pitch/44T 80 pitch you get tires about .650ish and I've tried the .430 hubs but do not like as much as the .400". Not sure about wear. I do remember at the 2009 Nats I pitted for Hermanator who ran in the B Main...had some great battles with Michael Landrud....but we were using the .430" hubs. That was when we could work on cars between heats. Hermanator gave me four extra sets of tires to use, but every time I did a tire change between heats, I was looking at another tiny set of tires...and what struck me was there wasn't much rubber on them. They sure seemed to wear out quickly, but then again, The Hermanator has been known to blow tires off his wheels pretty fast. But in this case, his car was set up for .650ish tires for tech, and these little .620s were pretty skimpy on tire rubber. When you get down to as low as .600" like I did in last year's Nats eurosport race, the tires still looked like they had some "meat" left on them.

  8. #293
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Nampa, Idaho
    Posts
    421
    So what do you think of a hub about .300" diameter?
    "Dub" Wade
    Nampa, ID
    208-392-0639
    dustynwade@ymail.com
    Dub Motors, Dub Rides, Dub Winged bodies, PMP Chassis, Paint by Odie, Bone Bodies.
    Of course Balance by Beuf
    3rd Eye Controllers

  9. #294
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    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by wbugenis View Post
    With a .480 dia. Valiko arm you have a lot riding on not having that arm swell. I hope you will tell us how it went.
    We find a lot of promise in a .500 dia arm with less metal in the lamination AND a set-up with less magnet mass
    but a more forgiving air gap. (I have assumed you did not grind down your Valiko arm.)
    Hi Bill, the Valikos are rock solid from our experience...bullet proof...no spandex stacks. Lee Gilbert has built his small block motors for years with a .490" airgap because Lee likes a lot of brakes. My little experiment will be all about how low in magnet mass I can go, a way of softening up a motor just right for ES32. I've already ground down a Valiko to .470", that's a 23t25 in a true Gulliver (.595"o.d. can) six mag and it is one of my really fast motors for ES24. My idea for this other motor is based on what happened at The Worlds in F1 where I got 9th place overall. I had an experimental Gulliver with single mags only .400T X .330"L with which I bored out to .500" and used a Valiko .250" stack 40T28....it was an incredibly good motor that put my F1 program in a totally different direction. It sounds like you guys are also doing some great experimentation and testing with the .500" arms in big airgaps. You know, all I can say is finding the RIGHT combination is elusive, but it's the search that makes slotcar racing so much fun. I like the thinking, the analysis, the fabrication and the testing.

  10. #295
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wade Raceway View Post
    So what do you think of a hub about .300" diameter?
    Dustyn, I tried some .350" hubs on my eurosport and did not like it at all, it was kind of strange and slower. I had ten pairs of them and narrowed them all down to .630" for 1/32 F1....absolutely perfect! In that class we start at tech with .595" tires. If you do the math, you might notice there seems to be an optimal "tire mass", at least for me, for my own personal driving tastes. Others like less tire mass and that works for their driving style. Best to experiment and find out what works best for you.

  11. #296
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    fairfield ca.
    Posts
    339
    hey Dustyn, .300 wheels do have there place in slot racing but it can be a challenge getting rubber with a hole that small. .350 is about the smallest i would tend to go due to available rubber and type of car.Axle height as it relates to arm shaft of motor is something to consider as well. as was said above, i have noticed that the less rubber on the wheel the less rolling resistance and more sidebite or better traction on corner exit but not as forgiving as more rubber on wheel. More rubber on wheel give you a sense of when the car is loosing the battle with traction. Less rubber on wheel does not give much warning when the traction battle is lost.

  12. #297
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Nampa, Idaho
    Posts
    421
    Thank you for the info.
    "Dub" Wade
    Nampa, ID
    208-392-0639
    dustynwade@ymail.com
    Dub Motors, Dub Rides, Dub Winged bodies, PMP Chassis, Paint by Odie, Bone Bodies.
    Of course Balance by Beuf
    3rd Eye Controllers

  13. #298
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    It's great to be back at slotcar racing work. Last night I spent most of my efforts on fixing my old Bulldog which had a broken part on the front end. I think I came up with a good solution.

    DSCN4041

    Then I got an Audi R10 mounted on it, time to start testing motors at SCR. First test will be the NORCAL motor, new Cahoza set up .535 airgap, Koford 42* G12 arm .518D, and I just added the shunts so now it pulls about 4 amps plus. This is the first Bulldog I got from Richard and its original job was the 2009 Cobalt 12 race at Mid America. It did kinda well. I better get going.....

  14. #299
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Really getting more focused on The Nats now. I identified four good GT12 possible motors, and got an Audi R10 mounted on Bulldog #1. Three of the motors are fully Cahoza UL set ups with T5s, I believe all are bored out to .560, but I think one may be a .550, I'll have to check. One set up has the arm from the Worlds production class, a really fine armature, and I have a couple of good Pro Slots on order. The fourth motor is my good NORCAL motor, again fully Cahoza but with a .535 airgap and Koford armature....now shunted. Meeting Hermanator on Sunday for testing. I just need to buy a new 3/32" axle for Horky ES24 (the one I used at The Worlds) and I'll get that car put back together. Trying a single mag .455T X .300L set up with a Valiko 23t25. I expect it will be a good mill. Gotta go, heading over to the post office....

  15. #300
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    winston salem nc
    Posts
    333
    wow . you eurosport flat trackers make my eyes water with all those figures haha.. im glad my local track runs mostly scale stuff . i dunno if i could keep up with all those chassis config. and tire sizes . just give me a good ole stamped chassis with 16d/s16d and some big full hub 790-800 tires and race haha..
    Drive it like your daddy bought it

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