.

.

Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #3121
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    110
    I had two wing car programs that were effected by bad Golddust brushes. About a tenth and a half slower than they should have ran.
    John Batson

  2. #3122
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    boise, ID
    Posts
    218
    I'm a sbfII guy. never had a problem with them

  3. #3123
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Interesting stuff about the brushes. Right now I am breaking in a Contender motor, getting some motors ready for testing on Saturday. I'm not really wild about how this break in is going. For one thing, I am getting the dreaded push start problem. Don't you hate that? PS .540" arm with 45* timing. I put in a new Golddust on the back side and a Bigfoot on the front side, Cahoza springs as usual. Once it's running, it's nice and smooth (thanks Beuf) but the push start thing makes me crazy. I'll let it go for half an hour on 3 volts, then test it for push start disease. If so, that arm will probably end up in the junk box for punishment. Has to serve penance. I have two more arms and two more setups to put together. Looks like I'm aiming for four each LMP and GT12s for the first race at Rocklin on October 6th. Back to the slot room....
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  4. #3124
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Sho 'nuff, when I finished the break in, the darned thing still push starts. Right now (because I am taking today off from WORK) I'm pulling that arm and putting it in some other set up, I think I have a Pro Slot set up lying around. Report to follow.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  5. #3125
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    I put the Contender arm in a Pro Slot set up....solid as can be now, no push start. Next, examine the set up where the push start was occurring. I'll put an X12 arm in it and see if it works OK.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #3126
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA.
    Posts
    761
    Did you check the arm for shorts and/or junk in the comm slots? Sometimes its due to a bad can or endbell bearing as well.
    Chase Walker

  7. #3127
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    450
    If you get a chance gauss the magnet tips of that Push start setup.

  8. #3128
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    806
    George I remedied my push start problem by narrowing the first 1/3 of the brushes. I ran both of the motors that had the push start problem from Philly at the ISRA Nats this past weekend with no problems. You and I discussed this before. I also believe a wider/narrower north/south magnet tip gap may also cure the problem. Now that the ISRA is over I may tinker around with that just to see what works. Do me a favor and gap check the north/south tip gap on the setup that didn't work to the setup that did. I would be intrested in a measurement of both. Thank you Fred
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  9. #3129
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    grove city ohio
    Posts
    201
    Quote Originally Posted by palm_dog View Post
    are we starting to see bad brushes again, this happened a while ago with both sbfII's and gold dust i believe.
    Racers:
    We had alot of problems w/ the older brushes, the supplier did not matter. The brush could be completely gone in just a few minutes on the power supply or they may last a few races, talk about a crap shoot.
    Thanks Ron

  10. #3130
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Chasegtp1590 View Post
    Did you check the arm for shorts and/or junk in the comm slots? Sometimes its due to a bad can or endbell bearing as well.
    Yup, all that checked out fine
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  11. #3131
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Freddie View Post
    George I remedied my push start problem by narrowing the first 1/3 of the brushes. I ran both of the motors that had the push start problem from Philly at the ISRA Nats this past weekend with no problems. You and I discussed this before. I also believe a wider/narrower north/south magnet tip gap may also cure the problem. Now that the ISRA is over I may tinker around with that just to see what works. Do me a favor and gap check the north/south tip gap on the setup that didn't work to the setup that did. I would be intrested in a measurement of both. Thank you Fred
    Fred, the Cahoza was .385" tip to tip (I'm at lunch now and relying on memory) for the Cahoza with the T2s...the one that needed push start. The Pro Slot set up has Koford .450L box mags and they were .395" apart. As reported earlier, when I put the same arm in the PS set up, it was eager to start....I turned it off and on several times and it worked so well I felt quite happy. Then I put it in another Cahoza set up, this one with T5s and it also works fine. I did not measure the tip distance on that one. Then, I put an X12 arm in the set up that had push start...the 12 works fine. This stuff makes me nutty. Almost as if there was too much cosmic dust on the first try or sunspots or who knows what!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  12. #3132
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    806
    Thank you George you just confirmed what I was thinking. The wider north/south tip gap cures the push start problem. The only reason we're having this problem is because the arm stack settles perfectly between the north/south magnet tips and in doing so it causes both brushes to contact the same comm segment due to the high (45*+) timing. I cured the problem by narrowing the brushes but may have hurt motor performance. If the problem can be cured by increasing the gap between the north/south magnet tips motor performance shouldn't be affected. Your tip gap is quite wide, are you measuring the gap between the north and south magnet tips? The reason I say the gaps seem wide is because of all my motors the widest north to south tip gap I have is only one at .315. Most are in the .295-.305 and two at .312. My push start motors have a gap of .305. How are you getting such wide north to south tip gap? Most likely the reason the X12 arm worked in the push start setup is probably because the width of the stack segments on the X12 arm are narrower than the PS Contender arm. I have absolutely no problem with any of my BOW arms because the stacks are narrower than the PS arm stacks, therefore the arm sees a wider tip to tip gap and no push start problem. All the arms I use have 45* timing. Thanks for the info George. Good luck racing this weekend. Fred
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  13. #3133
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Fred,

    On your motors, are you using .518" diameter arms or .540" diameter arms? I'm pretty sure that George is using .540" diameter arms. That might explain the difference in the magnet tip dimensions.
    Gary Johnson

  14. #3134
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    TEXAS
    Posts
    329
    How did that confirm anything he put another arm in the setup with the push start and it worked fine. The arm that needed to be push started in another setup and it worked fine..
    I have 8 Cahoza setups 7 with Koford M607 .450 long and 1 with Camen .450 long magnets. Each 1 has the tips between .269 and .272, not one has ever had a push start during breakin.
    I use Pro Slot Copper Hardware on both P/S and Cahoza endbells. 4 have Koford GP-12 and 4 have P/S GP-12 arms all with the timing is between 38 and 45 degrees. 515 to .518 diameter with .530 to .533 ag still no push start.
    I do have 1 K arm that developed a short after about 200 laps and now requires a push start and it is a full 1/10 slower than it was initially. I have tried it in 3 setups same problem in all.
    So this arm doesn't get to play anymore.

  15. #3135
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    with a tip gap of .385 they could be beveled tip t2 mags
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •