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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #301
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    Meeting Hermanator up at Slot Car Raceway, Rohnert Park, California, site of the 2006 and 2008 USRA Scale Nationals. I'm going to test something we are both interested in, the larger version of a Gulliver quad set up punched out to .491" and using a regular Valiko 23t25. For your benefit Mr. D'hamby, this is a .480" diameter arm with .300" stacks and the magnets are .455T X .300L and we're trying it in a 2007 Horky ES32 with an Audi R10 body (1/32 of course) on Frank's 130' flat track using tires that are only .640" in diameter with a spoiler at 32.5mm and overall width of 2.518", give or take a few thou. If we can run 3.5s we'll know we have something. Also, I built a new 2009 Bulldog, this is the older version with the fixed front weight wings. Need to pick up a pair of bearings, an axle, etc to build it up. Nope to try it today also. Well, I better go empty the trash and do the recycling....

  2. #302
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    Jan 2011
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    Overall Sunday was a good day of testing. When I got there, I saw that the track had just been cleaned and the spray job was pretty spotty. My first 15 minutes was spent fishtailing all over the place…I was wondering if it was going to be a useful day, or a futile day. Frank saw what was happening and thankfully sprayed the track again. Lap times then dropped at least three tenths per lap and cars were now normal.

    I started with some laps with the GT12 I was going to run at NORCAL a week ago, Dog #1. This is a new Cahoza set up at .535”, Koford .518 arm, but now in USRA trim with shunts added and an Audi R10. While Frank sprayed the track, I assembled NuDog (a brand new 2009 Bulldog kit) with a brand new set of Koford axle bearings, new Slick 7 flatted axle, new guide, leadwire, etc and I put in last year's Nats winning set up now with a Camen reconditioned Worlds arm (tagged “US12”). When the spray dried, I took it out and found that it was chattery and weird. Then, I hit the wall in the donut, went to get it and the motor was dangling. Oops, I had forgot to solder the rear of the motor to the brace and fully finish the soldering. I asked Herman to take me in the back room and gave him permission to wack me over the head a number of times with the toilet plunger. I felt better, so went back and soldered in the motor. For the next try of the new car, I removed the single .005" spacer under the guide, and added the front end weights to the “wings” at the front of the chassis. Put it on the track and we had a wonderful car! Really planted, glued to the track. The front end clearance is so critical with Bulldogs. The motor does not seem fast, but when you look at the 3.72s and how effortless it is, it reminded me that the big diameter G12 motors are not so much about screaming fast speed, but they "freight train" the car around the track.

    Next big test was the ES32 motor. Having exchanged some emails with Richard Mack, I concur with him that the 23/25 is probably not the right torque curve for 1/32. ES32 is the only class that I am sort of worried about. I think that the 23/25 we tested yesterday is too much for the car in the curves. Both Herman and I just couldn’t quite get the power to the track. Looks like a 25/25 needs to be the next armature. However, we both think the bored out Gulliver will be a great set up. This is one of the slightly wider Gullivers (.600” o.d.) bored to .491” Not as much magnet thickness. Quad format .455T X .300L.

    After those tests, we sat down and sketched out a game plan for the Nats which is only three weeks away. OK, better go now, Monday “work”….

  3. #303
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    Jan 2011
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    Not a whole lot done last night, just got all the 1/32 tires (F1 and Euro) rough cut, tonight I will trim them down to race diameter plus a little. Got the PK arms back, so time to put them into some set ups. Not sure I'll go to SCR this weekend, I have a lot of restoration work to be done to some chassis, but we'll see how that goes this week. Twiddling thumbs until the Nats....

  4. #304
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
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    1,201
    Slotcar Racer
    The tazer I change for my buddy work well but not great another buddy used his for the first time and didn't like it took the steering out by soldering pins in across the gap what a difference it made the car ran away with the race
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  5. #305
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Nampa, Idaho
    Posts
    421
    Wouldnt soldering the steer and pin tubes up just make it a stinger?
    "Dub" Wade
    Nampa, ID
    208-392-0639
    dustynwade@ymail.com
    Dub Motors, Dub Rides, Dub Winged bodies, PMP Chassis, Paint by Odie, Bone Bodies.
    Of course Balance by Beuf
    3rd Eye Controllers

  6. #306
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    Slotcar Racer
    The tazer I change for my buddy work well but not great another buddy used his for the first time and didn't like it took the steering out by soldering pins in across the gap what a difference it made the car ran away with the race
    You're basically correct, Dustyn, this makes it a lot like the Stinger. Mic, what was it your buddy did not like about the car? What kind of track was this on? What lap times did it get? What adjustments did you make (if any) before locking it up with solder? Did you try different tires? What was the body? I ran the Stinger in the 2009 USRA Scale Nats and it was really good. What I'd like to see is the Tazer and Bulldog combined into a Bullzer.

  7. #307
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Nampa, Idaho
    Posts
    421
    I have not enjoyed driving the Stinger on the flat track, but I havent tried working with it much due to the Bulldog being much better with very little work
    "Dub" Wade
    Nampa, ID
    208-392-0639
    dustynwade@ymail.com
    Dub Motors, Dub Rides, Dub Winged bodies, PMP Chassis, Paint by Odie, Bone Bodies.
    Of course Balance by Beuf
    3rd Eye Controllers

  8. #308
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    Slotcar Racer
    We Where again on the Red Lightning at Jerry Herbert's .Andrew liked everything but how tight it was leaving the corner.He didn't solder up the pin tubes just layed a pin across the gap to take the steering out the chassis still was able to twist at that joint he also ran 1 of my .555 dia 12 motors it wasn't as fast as others but they have a real smooth power band . best lap time was in the 3.8 range about 1 tenth off fast lap time .
    Steve Whitt ran the car as his was not good at all Andrew let him use it . He gave up a little in the straights but just smoked everyone in the corners and short parts of the track . he also was able to run it straight up without choke I had to run 19.5 feet to get my car manageable.My Tazer has very little steering compared to Andrews before he locked it up. A few guys run the Bulldog and the Saunder gt-12 but they are a lot more fragile then the tazer the front upstops like to pop in a big hit the tazer just keeps going.Most of us run the red fox R-10 I'm going to try out the bmw on it see how that works less down force then the R-10 could help will see.
    Last edited by Mic Byrd; 03-16-2011 at 05:22 AM.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  9. #309
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    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    OK Mic, this is a great testing report. I like the idea of adding a pin to remove rear steer instead of flooding it with solder like hitting it with a sledge hammer, that's really smart. You are also saying the large diameter arms have a smooth power band which I have also found true, although I am only using a "tiny" diameter .540" arm. Gives the freight train effect, the car does not look fast, but it is getting around with fast lap times because of corner speed. Sure is easy to drive! Getting back to the Tazer, from what you are saying, too much movement in the rear steer is giving some pitter patter on corner exit, and this makes sense. You have less steer in yours. How about making it so the pin that fits into the tube goes all the way to the rear on both sides with slight pressure so there is no steer at all, but with the ability only to twist? Twist may be a good thing whereas the steering motion may not be as good on that particular track on that day.

  10. #310
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
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    1,364
    I'm reading the information on the Tazer with great interest as I have one in my box that needs to be assembled. It will be one of the 3 GT-12's I plan to take to the Nats. I have to replace both up stops on my Bulldog as they are broken and I fixed them with .062 wire. I already have the up stops, I have just been putting the repair off as the .062 wire actually works quite well and won't break.

    Last night I pulled apart 10 motors and this morning I sent all the arms off for balance. I hope I have time to get them back before the Nats. If not, I'll be buying a couple of new arms. Over the next few days I need to replace the bearings in the cans and put new bushings in the endbells for several of these motors. Then this weekend I am going to pick up new end bell hardware for several of them as well (many of them are 10 year old Kelly setups).
    Gary Johnson

  11. #311
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    401
    SR,

    What Mic said is very true regarding the Tazer. I have not been able to get my Tazer to make competitive lap times compared to the Bulldog or the Sanders. It just will not exit the corners under power with out launching. What Andrew did to the rear of the car was not only smart but worked unbelievable well the car was glued to the track. Cornering speed was very good! I have tried what you suggested and moved the wire all the way back and that doesn't seem to make enough of a difference when exiting the corner. Andrew showed me what he did and I'm hoping to test it on my Tazer this weekend. A real good time on the Red Lighting is 3.8 which so far we've only seen from the Bulldog and the Sanders chassis.
    The Race Place raceplaceinfo.com
    Bowskateer founding member #3
    Get a 3rd EYE Fetroller 2.1
    Balanced by Bill

  12. #312
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Paonia, Colorado
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    1,452
    Reading the above posts, I'm thinking that we should ask Lee Gilbert to try building a GT-12 chassis along the line of his 1/24 ES chassis. Also I really like Slotcar Racer's idea of extending the pins all of the way to the back to defeat the rear steer, but leave the chassis twist intact.

    Greg

  13. #313
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    401
    I think that's an excellent idea Greg. Hopefully Lee is reading this thread and can come up with a version that will work with a C can version of the chassis. I should would like to try it! As fas as move the pins in the rear of the Tazer back I tried it a couple of week back it does help somewhat but the car still has too much bite exiting the corner. I raided my wifes sowing stuff and found some pins that are thiner then the one we use for body mounting. I'm going to try Andrew's trick with the fine gauge pins. It should leave some of the twist in the rear. If I get the car to go 3.9 this weekend we'll have a competitive chassis setup...
    The Race Place raceplaceinfo.com
    Bowskateer founding member #3
    Get a 3rd EYE Fetroller 2.1
    Balanced by Bill

  14. #314
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    Jun 2002
    Location
    Land of Excitement "Bensenville"
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    Can someone post a picture of the pin idea.
    Michael Mazur
    Ruzam Racing
    Team ProSlot

  15. #315
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Charles Town, WV
    Posts
    1,238
    Greg,

    Though it is an interesting idea for Lee, I think he is now into building Mack chassis for all his racers. I purchased a Mack Euro and GT12 from him last year and they are both super. I think he took his previous Euro design just about as far as it could go and would required a complete redo to be comperable to the new chassis being developed by Mack and others...

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