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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #3181
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
    Posts
    155
    No- Not too many new tricks, although the "Hermshow" was there for a few minutes- I am not sure what he tested, or tried to test as I stepped out for a quick bite to eat with my dad. As for me, I was mainly testing motors and taking notes- The conclusion I have reached about motors and their attitudes on the MTT, is that you pretty much need to test them all- Motors that may not contain components from the latest and greatest, in Sacramento, can sometimes be faster than you might think. The MTT is, in my opinion, a track where too much horsepower can be a bad thing- with the low grip levels and constant positive and negative accelerations, spinning the tyres can result in sub par times. I found that my fastest times can from cars that "felt" slow-
    I took a few minutes to look through the "archives" to see past race times- The cars seem to be going faster and faster, I think that this, along with the amount of time and effort Dwight and his "Crew" have put into the track to make it smooth and flat, has really paid off- Thank you Dwight and "Crew" the tracks and shop look great!
    I also did a few body tests, a couple of the bodies tested worked great, a couple did not. I think it will be more of a race day decision anyway so thats what I know.
    Bert
    Asking all things relevant-

  2. #3182
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    564
    Slotcarracer I'm interested in your thoughts about 1/24 ES stack length. How this affects the motor and chassis handling, relates to track power, timing and anything else you want to pontificate about.
    Say you had 2 arms with the same wind but one was a short arm & one was a long arm. What, when, how & always why? At this point we are talking .480 dia arms.
    Also would like your thoughts on the different brands of arms assuming they are all the same wind, balance, staying round, brakes, etc...... Thanks
    Why do I do this to myself?

  3. #3183
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Berteinstein View Post
    No- Not too many new tricks, although the "Hermshow" was there for a few minutes- I am not sure what he tested, or tried to test as I stepped out for a quick bite to eat with my dad. As for me, I was mainly testing motors and taking notes- The conclusion I have reached about motors and their attitudes on the MTT, is that you pretty much need to test them all- Motors that may not contain components from the latest and greatest, in Sacramento, can sometimes be faster than you might think. The MTT is, in my opinion, a track where too much horsepower can be a bad thing- with the low grip levels and constant positive and negative accelerations, spinning the tyres can result in sub par times. I found that my fastest times can from cars that "felt" slow-
    I took a few minutes to look through the "archives" to see past race times- The cars seem to be going faster and faster, I think that this, along with the amount of time and effort Dwight and his "Crew" have put into the track to make it smooth and flat, has really paid off- Thank you Dwight and "Crew" the tracks and shop look great!
    I also did a few body tests, a couple of the bodies tested worked great, a couple did not. I think it will be more of a race day decision anyway so thats what I know.
    Bert
    You're pretty much on the same page I am Bert. I have some nice GT12 and LMP chassis and motors that are freshly built. Haven't been up to Dwight's since the last time we raced there, but I like the reports I am hearing on track conditions. I agree with you totally about motor choice. Prime example is the flat track in Fresno. It really does not like high powered G12 motors. I look for the smoothest motor, something I can really hammer in the infield down there. I think the flat track in Rocklin may be similar as there are a lot of short chutes and the dreaded kink. Remind me to practice a lot on red!!!! I forgot to do it last time there and I really paid dearly going through that kink. Must have come off half a dozen times. Funny how you think you mounted bodies all the same, but still some are better than others!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  4. #3184
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Wallbasher View Post
    Slotcarracer I'm interested in your thoughts about 1/24 ES stack length. How this affects the motor and chassis handling, relates to track power, timing and anything else you want to pontificate about.
    Say you had 2 arms with the same wind but one was a short arm & one was a long arm. What, when, how & always why? At this point we are talking .480 dia arms.
    Also would like your thoughts on the different brands of arms assuming they are all the same wind, balance, staying round, brakes, etc...... Thanks
    Basher, I only run the "standard" .300"L stacks. Right now I think it provides the best torque curve although I have to admit I have not invested any money into shorter stack motors. The only thing I can tell you is if you have the same wind, the total length of the wire will be shorter on a short stack armature. The rule of thumb is the shorter stack arms will be a hotter wind by virtue of that shorter total wire length. I don't know if that is scientifically true, but I do remember we talked a lot about that way back in 1997 at the Scale Nats at my raceway. At that time, Koford had come out with some "peanut" motors with .250"L stack. I recall the 31t27 was more equivalent to a 26t26 in a long stack.

    As for winders, I am currently just using Valiko, but I know Dan Miller is working on a new blank and I think a new comm. Another winder to look at is Koford. Hermanator has been developing stuff in conjunction with Beuf with some very good results. Finally, I did use some Pro Slot arms at the 2012 Nats, a 19t24.5 was my qualifier that got creamed in the semi, but it was a really strong motor. The last race up in Seattle I used a Valiko aluminum comm 84-1/2 and it was a superb motor...Voki 10 mag. I believe that Voki is opened up to .500" too. Hope this all helps.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  5. #3185
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    804
    George or anyone for that matter. I've got a problem and I'm guessing it's not just my problem. I, like so many other racers have gone to the JK stainless chassis (C-11 and X-25) for most of my scale racing and while they are great chassis they have one major problem. The metal has memory. Now for those who don't know what that means it means that when you have spent hours trying to make a chassis flat and being all proud of how well you did. When you wake up in the morning and go out to see your beautifully flat chassis it looks like it's been trampled by a hundred small trols and it is definitely not flat anymore. The X-25 doesn't seem to have this problem as much as all but one of my C-11s. I have now for the last 2 days spent several hours restraightening chassis that were perfectly flat on friday. Has anyone come up with a cure for this problem? I don't recall ever having this problem with any other chassis. If this has been discussed on OWH I would appreciate direction to the thread. Thank you Fred
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  6. #3186
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Great Valley,NY
    Posts
    1,227

    The Long and Short of it.

    I have run long and short bodies on banked and flat tracks.
    I can`t tell a difference if one is clearly better than the other.
    The long one looks cool to me, but that`s about all I can tell.
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  7. #3187
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Great Valley,NY
    Posts
    1,227
    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Freddie View Post
    George or anyone for that matter. I've got a problem and I'm guessing it's not just my problem. I, like so many other racers have gone to the JK stainless chassis (C-11 and X-25) for most of my scale racing and while they are great chassis they have one major problem. The metal has memory. Now for those who don't know what that means it means that when you have spent hours trying to make a chassis flat and being all proud of how well you did. When you wake up in the morning and go out to see your beautifully flat chassis it looks like it's been trampled by a hundred small trols and it is definitely not flat anymore. The X-25 doesn't seem to have this problem as much as all but one of my C-11s. I have now for the last 2 days spent several hours restraightening chassis that were perfectly flat on friday. Has anyone come up with a cure for this problem? I don't recall ever having this problem with any other chassis. If this has been discussed on OWH I would appreciate direction to the thread. Thank you Fred
    Is the chassis bent at the guide or further back?

    The X25 is thicker and stronger than the C11.

    The C21 is the same length and stronger than the C11.

    I use a Precision Slot Car Fixture when I build my cars.

    Check for flatness and guide depth every time with the body off, on the track you are running on.
    Always look at the angle of the guide and make sure it`s not bent down.
    Mike Swiss sells a JK X25 with a reinforced guide tongue if you want a little more strength.
    Last edited by La Cucaracha; 10-02-2012 at 01:05 PM.

  8. #3188
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Any metal has "memory" when bent. Once you have bent it, it will always try to go back to that bend. The only way I know of to eliminate this is to anneal the metal removing the temper, flatten it and then temper it again. Of course for our applications this doesn't make sense. So we bend them and flatten them and bend them and flatten them, and then throw them away and start over. This is one of the reasons why I have gone to only racing the X25 rather than all the other C11 variations. It comes from the factory flat from the get go (at least the 6 or 7 of them I have put together have all been flat). And the metal is tempered a bit harder so it resists being bent better than the rest of the chassis.
    Gary Johnson

  9. #3189
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Quote Originally Posted by La Cucaracha View Post
    I have run long and short bodies on banked and flat tracks.
    I can`t tell a difference if one is clearly better than the other.
    The long one looks cool to me, but that`s about all I can tell.
    I always run the body long. I've had many times during a race where I have had to cut the body short and the car ALWAYS gets loose. It makes a big difference IMHO.
    Gary Johnson

  10. #3190
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    fairfield ca.
    Posts
    339
    just my 2 cents, when i have the occassional memory bent chassis i simply over bend it in the proper direction so it tends to go back only so far. this takes a bit of learning but it works most of the time.


    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Freddie View Post
    George or anyone for that matter. I've got a problem and I'm guessing it's not just my problem. I, like so many other racers have gone to the JK stainless chassis (C-11 and X-25) for most of my scale racing and while they are great chassis they have one major problem. The metal has memory. Now for those who don't know what that means it means that when you have spent hours trying to make a chassis flat and being all proud of how well you did. When you wake up in the morning and go out to see your beautifully flat chassis it looks like it's been trampled by a hundred small trols and it is definitely not flat anymore. The X-25 doesn't seem to have this problem as much as all but one of my C-11s. I have now for the last 2 days spent several hours restraightening chassis that were perfectly flat on friday. Has anyone come up with a cure for this problem? I don't recall ever having this problem with any other chassis. If this has been discussed on OWH I would appreciate direction to the thread. Thank you Fred

  11. #3191
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    Topkat is on the money but with the x-25 I haven't had to go to that extreme. unless it was badly bent then it takes a good bit of time to get flat again.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  12. #3192
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Great Valley,NY
    Posts
    1,227
    They are cheap enough that I keep building new ones and they seem to work better each time.

    I really enjoy putting them together and I like racing them even more.

    Thanks Jerry, for a great product.

  13. #3193
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Quote Originally Posted by La Cucaracha View Post
    They are cheap enough that I keep building new ones and they seem to work better each time.

    I really enjoy putting them together and I like racing them even more.

    Thanks Jerry, for a great product.
    I agree Mike. At $11.95 for a new center section, they don't cost enough to straighten too many times. The pans hardly ever bend so you almost never need to replace them. Just the centers.
    Gary Johnson

  14. #3194
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Great Valley,NY
    Posts
    1,227
    I have one that I built in`09 that has won several races and still works great.

  15. #3195
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    804
    Thanks guys I should have thought about the over bending trick. I have done that before on other things. My X25 chassis are as flat as glass and I've had no problems with them. My main concern was with my C11 chassis. The section giving me the most problems is around the motor box. You are right though. Since they are so inexpensive I should just buy some new center sections and be done with it.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

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