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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #316
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    I am enjoying everybody's posts from the past 24 hours. Really great stuff you guys. I like the idea of a Speedshop GT12 too. Last night I put the finishing touches on the six new pairs of 1/32 F1 tires, all trued to .605" and now in a sealed bag ready for April 8th. Next, I made some up stops for a ES32 Horky that had both broken. I think making new ones out of .047" piano wire is probably more durable than the originals. I checked with Mid America to see if he had spares for the OLD Horky chassis and he didn't.....that said, he DOES have spares for the 2010 ES32 Horky...so that's good to know.

    After the chassis repair, it was on to the tedious job of bodies for The Nats. It's really just busy work prepping for the painting. I'm staying with silver front flourescent orange rear, but now to speed up the masking, I am doing the torn masking tape effect so the two ends of the car look like they are being torn apart. Takes no precision to do that masking job and it's cool. The real work is after the painting.....mounting them. I think that should take place this weekend if the painting goes as scheduled. Oh, I better get to "work"....

  2. #317
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    701
    After breaking the up stop on my Bulldog for the second time, when I installed the replacement, I also soldered on a .025 piano wire bent to shape to reinforce the original. I have not broken one since. This must be added to the rear side of the up stop.

    Next time I have decided I would double the entire up stop as that would also reinforce the inner pan pivot, which I have seen others break though not as often. You would need to modify the second one slightly as it can't be keyed into the slot in the chassis.

  3. #318
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Kevin,

    That is essentially what I did with .062 wire to fix my broken up stop. Reading the rules, it doesn't look like you can reinforce the chassis this way for USRA. So, I'm going to replace my up stops with just the factory stops and not add the bracing.

    Chassis kits are allowed as long as they are assembled identically to
    approved RTR chassis. All parts must be in stock location.
    a) May add lead weight.
    b) May add a rear motor brace and an upright brace.
    c) No other modifications are allowed
    Gary Johnson

  4. #319
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    401
    Quote Originally Posted by mazur50 View Post
    Can someone post a picture of the pin idea.
    Hey Mike,

    I'll be working on it tonight and will post a picture.
    The Race Place raceplaceinfo.com
    Bowskateer founding member #3
    Get a 3rd EYE Fetroller 2.1
    Balanced by Bill

  5. #320
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Paonia, Colorado
    Posts
    1,452
    Piano wire works just fine for the front pan holders on older 1/32 Horky's. They're stonger and they're easy to adjust for up motion. Much stronger that the originals. I expect tho, that Mr Slotcar Racer will not accept their less than jeweler appearance. :-)

    Greg

  6. #321
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    401

    Tazer rear pin

    Here's a picture of the Tazer with the rear "pinned".
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Tazer chassis..jpg 
Views:	277 
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ID:	8321  

    The Race Place raceplaceinfo.com
    Bowskateer founding member #3
    Get a 3rd EYE Fetroller 2.1
    Balanced by Bill

  7. #322
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    701
    Good point Gary, thanks for pointing that out. Gotta love the USRA! Guess I have to unsolder those little guys.

    Is the Saunders GT12 any stronger?
    Last edited by KVAN; 03-19-2011 at 08:40 AM.

  8. #323
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Kevin, check with Regor (USSR tech director) about legality of bracing up stops. I would think it's just like a U-brace at the rear of a flexi...it is not a modification which makes the car FASTER, just more DURABLE. I'll send him an email too. I know Richard is working on this with CRASH CODGER for the next generation of the Bulldog. Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I repaired a Slick 7 hybrid for somebody where the rear end was not just out of alignment, it was ridiculously out of alignment. Actually, I just threw the center section away and pulled a new one. After that, I just continued the tedious task of masking bodies. Unfortunately it's raining today, not the greatest weather for spraying, but I'll see how it looks tonight after "work" and perhaps get a few sprayed. I believe we are going to be treated with more rain in the Bay Area this weekend. Better go make glasses....

  9. #324
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    illinois
    Posts
    1,445
    sorry guys,

    there is no bracing of upstops, and you can't fabricate your own.

    But for anyone who needs a new upstop for the nats, we have you covered



    rog
    Roger Schmitt





    MidAmerica Slot Car Raceway LLC
    109 1/2 West Monroe st.
    Bloomington, IL 61701

    630-484-8574

    Mid America Raceway Naperville
    1223 E Ogden ave
    Suite 139
    Naperville, Il 60563

  10. #325
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    In the Middle
    Posts
    1,169
    SCR or Whoever..........I tried to fit a koford setup in my Tazer........I have NOT ground the Can/Mags yet but it seems that you need to remove a lot of material to get it to fit. Is this the case.........any pics would be appreciated
    Resident Curmudgeon
    "Manta" Ray Price

  11. #326
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Quote Originally Posted by KVAN View Post
    Good point Gary, thanks for pointing that out. Gotta love the USSR......I mean the USRA! Guess I have to unsolder those little guys.

    Is the Saunders GT12 any stronger?
    IMHO, the Saunders is actually a weaker chassis. One good hit to a wall and the chassis parallelograms on you. Often to the point that the pan comes out of the stops making you have to pop it back in before you can continue. That is actually why I have done most of my work with the Bulldog rather than the Saunders. The Saunders is very fast on our track, and handles great but is a little unforgiving. I find the Bulldog a little more forgiving but a tick slower on average. I'll take the more forgiving car in a race even if I have to give up a little speed.
    Gary Johnson

  12. #327
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    701
    Gary thanks for the info on the Saunders, I have one under construction at the moment.

    No bracing or modifying the Bulldog's weakness, parallelograming(is that really a word?) of the Saunders, guess I better learn real quick to drive like Slotcar Racer and not hit anything.

  13. #328
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Kevin, I've never broken the upstop on a Bulldog because I'm too slow, I only get hit from behind....

  14. #329
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    701
    I have learned a valuable lesson here today Slotcar Racer.

    Lesson learned.........do not share simple solutions to design flaws on a public forum or your solution could be ruled illegal on that same public forum. Certainly won't slide through tech now.

  15. #330
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    701
    Slotcar Racer, I only dream about being as slow as you!

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