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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #391
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    701
    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Swanson View Post

    I've crushed several of them with my bare fingers.

    But then again, I have unusually "HUGE ARMS".

    Just ask Kevin, he's seen them.
    Yes I have and they are mighty impressive. Not!!!!!

    I just hope that Tahoe of yours has good working AC, I don't want to drive out to PA with you in your muscle shirt.

    Nice looking grandson SCR, looks like he already has more hair than grandpa.

  2. #392
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Glued up my last three sets of tires....that's it before the Nats!!! No more tires!!! Got one more eurosport motor built, this one's name is "Mo", has a PK 23t25 turned down to .475" in a "smaller block" set up. Hard part was grinding the shaft down to 1.5", but that only takes about 15 minutes. Other than that, just waiting for a couple of special order Pro Slot X12 arms to come in, I hope to test those on Sunday at SCR. I can't believe it, in a week I will be going through TSA showing them my slotcars. What fun.

  3. #393
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by oldweirdherald View Post
    Slotcar Racer - maybe you need to invest in a few more colors of armature dye, for keeping track of your pinions. You could use a different color for each brand or type, or just to tell the cheap ones from the spendy ones. I've got Red, Yellow, Blue, & of course Purple - so that seems like enough to keep them sorted.

    And here I was... thinking that a "run-out gauge" was something that measures just how much you can spend on tools & toys... before your wife/girlfriend decides to "run-out" on you!

    Those Czechs have all sorts of cool tools & toys. Maybe that accounts for how they do so darned good...

    Just wait until they get a gander at Slotcar Racer in his new super-duper dentist magnifier glasses!
    I'm liking the multi colored approach to pinion sorting, let me work on that one. Not sure you need no stinkin' run down gauges for your pinions...if it is not true I suppose it's nice to know it's not true using fancy eastern european tool. However, the real question is, how are you going to correct it? Time to go back to the pinion truing procedure. When you solder a pinion to the motor shaft, it is almost always going to be out of round, so don't bother measuring it, just fix it. Install motor and spur gear, then run motor at slowest speed possible. Put a small dab of solder on the tip of your iron and quickly melt the solder on the pinion. Often the motor shaft will start spinning in the pinion, but when the solder rehardens, the pinion is almost 100% of the time concentric, the spur gear corrects it. The only thing I watch out for when the shaft spins inside the pinion is the solder becoming too crystalized. So, I always put some more acid flux on the end of the pinion and put a good healthy blob of silver solder on the end.....I call it a "safety cap". I have not had any problems with spun pinions, and after you finish this procedure, the gear mesh should be silent. Oh yeah, one more thing, don't worry about melting the spur gear, it's never happened in my experience. Loosening the pinion is very brief, and the spur is slowly spinning.

  4. #394
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    179
    How do you do the aligning procedure on an F1?


    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    I'm liking the multi colored approach to pinion sorting, let me work on that one. Not sure you need no stinkin' run down gauges for your pinions...if it is not true I suppose it's nice to know it's not true using fancy eastern european tool. However, the real question is, how are you going to correct it? Time to go back to the pinion truing procedure. When you solder a pinion to the motor shaft, it is almost always going to be out of round, so don't bother measuring it, just fix it. Install motor and spur gear, then run motor at slowest speed possible. Put a small dab of solder on the tip of your iron and quickly melt the solder on the pinion. Often the motor shaft will start spinning in the pinion, but when the solder rehardens, the pinion is almost 100% of the time concentric, the spur gear corrects it. The only thing I watch out for when the shaft spins inside the pinion is the solder becoming too crystalized. So, I always put some more acid flux on the end of the pinion and put a good healthy blob of silver solder on the end.....I call it a "safety cap". I have not had any problems with spun pinions, and after you finish this procedure, the gear mesh should be silent. Oh yeah, one more thing, don't worry about melting the spur gear, it's never happened in my experience. Loosening the pinion is very brief, and the spur is slowly spinning.

  5. #395
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Nr. Birmingham,England
    Posts
    108
    George,
    I've watched Horky and also be instructed by Matti Fyhr on how to correct the pinion using the checking tool (BTW I got my checker via Matti, they are made by a Finnish watch maker and the check most everything you need pinion run out axel and gear run out etc etc totaly awsome bit of kit)
    They check the instaled pinion then re-flow the joint and tweak the pinion (sometimes several times) until they get as near perfect as possible.

    I have seen Landrud do it the way you suggest, and it also seems to work fine.

    Pat, how do you do it on F1. Ask BSP about his F1 motor alignment jig which fits over the pinion!!! Not jokeing, it's a special from SCD

    Woody, just wishing I had the time to put all opf this stuff into practise.
    Woodyatoaklands

  6. #396
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Woody, you're right, the F1 is hard to center, but so far I have not had any problems with it. The anglewinder cars that have the ultra high rpm seem to be the ones that truly need a straight pinion. That said, with F1 I have resoldered the pinion perhaps 2-3 times using trial and error. I have been using the 7 tooth 72 pitch 1.5mm hole pinions for F1 because they have a normal tooth profile....that along with the Vitula crown (are those from Afghanistan?) it is a very forgiving mesh. I can't say enough good things about the Vitula after having struggled with those green things for so many years.

    By the time we get to Chicago I will have built two F1 cars for my friends using the Camen/Piero F1 motor. I received the set up and arm from Camen yesterday and it only took 25 minutes from start to finish to put the motor together. That included grinding the shaft to 1.5mm with my Dremel cut off wheel.

    This last week I have started cutting out pieces of masking tape to cover the motor can when I do the shaft grinding. It greatly reduces the amount of steel filings clean up. I know that many racers send out their arms to be ground to 1.5mm, or have fancy jigs, but I have always preferred grinding down just with a Dremel while the motor is running as it allows me to control how much of the motor shaft to grind. The F1 is particularly important because I want to grind it right up to the phenolic spacer that protects the can bearing. That way, I can mount the pinion gear right up against that washer thereby allowing the motor to be mounted as far back as possible...which of course is the goal of F1. I better send an email to CRASH CODGER and get going here....

  7. #397
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Nr. Birmingham,England
    Posts
    108
    George,
    this is the best thread ever, a great sounding board for good ideas.

    Dave Harvey came up with a great design for converting a com lathe into a shaft grinder. Richard did the engineering.
    Basicaly you mount a diamond disk on a mandrel which is mounted on a Falcon motor.
    The Falcon has a piece of 1/4 inch steel bar soldered on which mounts in the tool post.
    You do need to cut the one armature support about a bit, but you can get spare supports.

    Woody
    Woodyatoaklands

  8. #398
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Woody,

    Can you post a picture of that? I actually have an extra post for one of my lathes and this would be a great conversion to do on the lathe.

    Well I'm off to the airport in 3 hours to head to Chicago. I'm going to carry on my small box with just the cars and then check all my tools and controllers. I hope there are no issues at the airport! I'm planning on a Saturday night race tomorrow at Chicagoland and then will focus the rest of the week on the Monster.

    Unfortunately most of my cobalt motor parts failed to come in. So I won't have the motor selection I wanted to have. But thanks to Jim Radford I should be set up with a couple of different motors to try if I don't like my main Euro motor.
    Gary Johnson

  9. #399
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tacoma, WA.
    Posts
    105
    Good luck Gary

  10. #400
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Boise, ID.
    Posts
    498
    Good luck at the Nats Gary...... the contingent from spud country is leaving tuesday and should be there some time wednesday........ and good luck to Dustyn, Vance and Anthony from spud country.................. the shop will be in good hands while you are gone...... LOL
    Jim Dalton
    Bone Bodies

    ISCC
    Dub Motors
    PMP Chassis
    3rd Eye controllers
    jd102454@yahoo.com

  11. #401
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Thanks guys! I look forward to racing against them again... As well as George and Herman!
    Gary Johnson

  12. #402
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Phew, got a ton of work done yesterday cuz I had to. Mainly worked on my best ES32 car, the one I used at the Scale Nats a year ago and at The Worlds. Not sure I'm going to get a Valiko 25t25 in time for the race from Lee, I think Valiko just shipped the arms middle of last week. So, I came up with an alternative, use the bulked up Gulliver set up - this one is .600" wide o.d. can size, magnets are .450"T X .300"L in quad configuration. I pulled a .492" hone through it so greatly reducing the magnet mass overall. Then, went for one of my new PK 23t25 arms which is .485" diameter. Put er together and turned on the analyzer and....oops....can bearing needs replacing. Don't you hate that? Get a motor all put together, shunted and loctite the screws....then you have a grinder bearing. Took a deep breath and pulled it apart and replaced the bearing. On the second attempt to break it in it sounded really sweet and quiet, so I continued on to install it into the 1/32 Horky chassis. Meeting Hermanator at Slot Car Raceway, Rohnert Park, Calif, Site of the 2006, 2008 and hopefully 2012 USRA Scale Nats, we'll put together his ES32 and try it out. I think we'll be pretty much prepared, we both fly in to Chicago on Thursday on separate flights. Hermanator's flight gets in really late, mine gets in around 4pm. I may make it to the track, but need to go see Grandson first, so probably see ya Friday. Gotta go get that cuppa Peets now...

  13. #403
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    See ya on Friday George!

    I spent the day running the gutter lanes and all I can say is I sucked! I am very glad I came in early to get some track time. This is going to be a tough track to tame!
    Gary Johnson

  14. #404
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Gary, try this, it's an exercise I did for half a day on black. See how consistent you can hit the braking point at the end of the banana straightaway for the hairpin. In other words, go down the straightaway, around the donut through the 90 and down the banana, then brake and stop. Stop, do not continue. See if you can stop it at the same point each time. I found it was hard at first, but after a few hours I got within 6" each time, then when I continued on, I was a whole lot better through the hairpin. That corner is the key to the black lane. The nice thing about this exercise is you are on the inside lane and it will not bother other people practicing on the other lanes. We also saw Horky practicing at the Worlds, he would break the track down into component parts and work it out that way instead of just pounding around the track over and over.

    Hermanator and I had our last test session at SCR yesterday before leaving for Chicago on Thursday. We really had some fun running our F1 cars on blue and yellow, both of us running the Camen ultrashort motor. The other cars made it around the track which we figured was good enough for now. Time to pull out the blue suitcase and start putting stuff in the cartons. Daughter has the Taj Mahal shelf in her basement, will pick that up. Kevin, save us our spot from the worlds if it is there, we were right near the hairpin. Better get to "work" now....

  15. #405
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    701
    Gary, that's why they call it the "Monster", if you can't run the gutters ,it will eat you alive! I found early on running yellow and green gave me a good sense of what red and black drove like, but also a good sense of the speed the track had. Keep plugging away.

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