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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #421
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    SR,

    May I suggest that you consider changing over to my motor program? You take the car out of the box as it comes back from Mr Multiracer and run it. (I work on the chassis, he does the motors.) If it doesn't run well, I unsolder the motor and replace it with my back up motor, except in F1, where I have none. As you can see the decision making is quite straight-forward. :-)

    Now if I could only drive better!

    Greg

  2. #422
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    OK GN, I will switch over to your motor program, it is quite simple indeed.

    Meanwhile back at the shop I glued up donuts on Sunday and last night tried out the donut coring attachment from R-GEO....yessirree, it works great! Got a dozen pairs of tires done in about an hour, it took a little time to get used to the donut corer, but it works really well. Certainly much safer than an Xacto blade. Tonight will trim the tires down to finish size. Next race at SCR in just a few weeks, and time to get prepped for Philadelphia.

  3. #423
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    Forgot to mention the post mortem of motors from eurosport. Used a PK arm in ES32. The .485" diameter is not good in a .492" airgap, the stacks expanded on one pole and started rubbing the magnets. No wonder it turned into a Falcon 5. Found the same thing but worse on my favorite .480" tall single mag set up. I put a new PK 95 in it before the race on Monday and it ran incredibly well until it started intermittant slowing down. I went to another motor altogether for the race because the slowing down didn't seem like a good thing for a race. Post mortem discovered a chipped magnet, not a big deal, but chip came from expanding stack on one pole of the armature. Again, .485" arm in a .495" airgap and the stack expanded....this time damaging a magnet a little bit. So, today all PK arms are being mailed out for stack grinding down to .480" like Valiko arms. Hopefully after going through a heat cycle the stacks are now stable and grinding will fix them. I ended up running a Valiko 22t24.5 in a Voki set up in ES24 although I really like my Camen .480" tall single mag setup the best....my current favorite set up. Too bad it had problems before the race.

  4. #424
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    Jun 2009
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    Slotcar Racer
    just sent my BOW euro arms out and I'm going to have them touched with the grinder Its my understanding that if you do this when you have them reconditioned that the swelling will be less each time until it stops. I believe the checz's do this all the time .
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  5. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    Slotcar Racer
    just sent my BOW euro arms out and I'm going to have them touched with the grinder Its my understanding that if you do this when you have them reconditioned that the swelling will be less each time until it stops. I believe the checz's do this all the time .
    The only problem is every time you do that the crown gets smaller and smaller.
    Michael Mazur
    Ruzam Racing
    Team ProSlot

  6. #426
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    Sep 2005
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    Mike Mazur, that is exactly the same concern I have. Kind of like resurfacing your brake rotors over and over again until it's paper thin. I just mailed mine off at lunch to have them ground down to .480"....I just hope they don't decide to expand again, it didn't help me a bit in the ES32 race. Gotta get home now and build a Mack JRL chassis...yee haw!

  7. #427
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    Mike
    your not grinding off any real material when you do this .there just takeing off any hi spots from the arms swelling or lame's moveing so the arm basicly stays the same dia . if you grind .005 off a .485 arm thats taking material off .this comes from the checz team like I said its suppose to stop the swelling of the arm . So I would think that it's only done the first time the arms are reconditioned and maybe the second .maybe I should have explained it a little better in my first post.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  8. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    Mike
    your not grinding off any real material when you do this .there just takeing off any hi spots from the arms swelling or lame's moveing so the arm basicly stays the same dia . if you grind .005 off a .485 arm thats taking material off .this comes from the checz team like I said its suppose to stop the swelling of the arm . So I would think that it's only done the first time the arms are reconditioned and maybe the second .maybe I should have explained it a little better in my first post.
    Mic, I think you explained it both times, but my concern is still the same as Mike Mazur's. Sure, you are shaving off the "hi spots" from the expansion of the lams....so that makes the crown thinner in the small spot where you do the shaving. So now being thinner, it will potentially expand even more at that particular spot.....shave again, thinner yet...problem worse and worse. I think somebody posted that the expansion stops after you shave it once....I sure hope that is the case.

    I go back to my analogy of resurfacing brake rotors....if they are warped, your brake pedal will pulsate, and if you try to save money by not replacing the rotors but instead try having your brake guy turn them down on the lathe, although the rotor is now true, the metal is still warped....now you have metal that is of inconsistent thickness....it now heats up more quickly....warps more....resurface again? More heat, warps even worse.

    Meanwhile, back at the shop I have done a batch of tires with the new R GEO donut corer. I need to work with it more, but what I notice is that the donut corer inevitably makes a cone shaped tire. I think this is because you are using a 1/16" "needle". As you push it through the spinning donut, it inevitably tracks away from the center because of the point and the needle being different diameters....the point is a very tiny diameter, the needle is 1/16". I think this is OK because the tires get a finish grind which makes them flat. I must say it sure saves time and is so much safer than the old Xacto blade procedure.

  9. #429
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    Mar 2009
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    Everett, Wa.
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    Slotcar Racer:
    Just thinking out loud so to speak, with regards to "coning" of your tires - Perhaps 1 or 2 radial/circumference cuts with a knife (at 1/3 & 2/3rds width or maybe just one at the first 1/3 width the way in? - in essence removing three narrower pieces instead of one) would reduce the axial compression effect and then allow you to get closer to your final O.D. with less dramatic coning? Reduce the "total tracking error" is what I am thinking.
    Guy Middleton
    Everything I was taught in Engineering school I had already learned from slot cars....

  10. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Mic, I think you explained it both times, but my concern is still the same as Mike Mazur's. Sure, you are shaving off the "hi spots" from the expansion of the lams....so that makes the crown thinner in the small spot where you do the shaving. So now being thinner, it will potentially expand even more at that particular spot.....shave again, thinner yet...problem worse and worse. I think somebody posted that the expansion stops after you shave it once....I sure hope that is the case.

    I go back to my analogy of resurfacing brake rotors....if they are warped, your brake pedal will pulsate, and if you try to save money by not replacing the rotors but instead try having your brake guy turn them down on the lathe, although the rotor is now true, the metal is still warped....now you have metal that is of inconsistent thickness....it now heats up more quickly....warps more....resurface again? More heat, warps even worse.

    Meanwhile, back at the shop I have done a batch of tires with the new R GEO donut corer. I need to work with it more, but what I notice is that the donut corer inevitably makes a cone shaped tire. I think this is because you are using a 1/16" "needle". As you push it through the spinning donut, it inevitably tracks away from the center because of the point and the needle being different diameters....the point is a very tiny diameter, the needle is 1/16". I think this is OK because the tires get a finish grind which makes them flat. I must say it sure saves time and is so much safer than the old Xacto blade procedure.

    I agree with George the metal is coming from somewhere and it is getting thinner in some places. This is even more of a problem with the 500 arm made from a c-can blank the crown is very small. But you will get a few grinds before the arm can not be used anymore.

    They key is to make sure you don't over rev the arm anymore than you need to.
    Michael Mazur
    Ruzam Racing
    Team ProSlot

  11. #431
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    I agree with you both but whats the alternative you need to make the arm round again so it will spin properly and stay in balance and if its good for horky there must be something to it .FYI Lou Pirro is grinding .480 pk arms down to fit the Gulliver with good results. Talk about a thin crown.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  12. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    I agree with you both but whats the alternative you need to make the arm round again so it will spin properly and stay in balance and if its good for horky there must be something to it .FYI Lou Pirro is grinding .480 pk arms down to fit the Gulliver with good results. Talk about a thin crown.
    The arms will just not last as long. Part of the cost of running Eurosport.
    Michael Mazur
    Ruzam Racing
    Team ProSlot

  13. #433
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    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by MentalKase View Post
    Slotcar Racer:
    Just thinking out loud so to speak, with regards to "coning" of your tires - Perhaps 1 or 2 radial/circumference cuts with a knife (at 1/3 & 2/3rds width or maybe just one at the first 1/3 width the way in? - in essence removing three narrower pieces instead of one) would reduce the axial compression effect and then allow you to get closer to your final O.D. with less dramatic coning? Reduce the "total tracking error" is what I am thinking.
    Hi Guy, this is what I have done before. I cut 1/3 across with knife, then cut in and push that piece off, then do another 1/3 and the final 1/3. I thought I'd try Rick's new toy because it is a cool idea. I got another cool idea for Rick's toy by modifying the piano wire so the point is along one edge of the wire....see photo....I just tried it and it cuts straight across!!!! And not dangerous like an Exacto blade.
    Last edited by oldweirdherald; 04-21-2011 at 10:33 PM.

  14. #434
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    OK, one more photo, this time it shows a 1/32 Eurosport tire. I'm happy with this, it was easy to buzz this batch of tires down to .650" right after using the R GEO gizmo. Good work Rick!

    Last edited by oldweirdherald; 04-21-2011 at 10:33 PM.

  15. #435
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    Paul, I got rid of the coning on the tire, now how do I get rid of the [IMG] on my photos? I am just "grabbing the html" or whatever that puter thingamabob is called on Flickr, then paste it into my post. [IMG] [IMG] [IMG] Blah Blah Blah


    Slotcar Racer:
    I'll have to play around with Flickr when I get back home, to see how to post Flickr images here. For now I just deleted the extra [ IMG ] tags.
    I went island hopping this AM, and heading back out to enjoy this gorgeous weather & white sand beach.
    PK @ OWH
    Last edited by oldweirdherald; 04-21-2011 at 10:39 PM. Reason: [img] [/img] blah blah blah

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