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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #451
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Herman,

    When I measured the stack on the one I got it was indeed a .480 diam.
    Gary Johnson

  2. #452
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Interesting side note...

    George, if you remember, the Flats car I got from you (and won with) had a PK arm in it. So there is one more big race to add to your resume Dan! 2010 American Flat Track Worlds Eurosport Champion.
    Gary Johnson

  3. #453
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tacoma, WA.
    Posts
    105
    Whew, with all that said. I just wanted you to know I baked some magnets in a Koford C can and it looks ok. My 1st time, I hope its ready for Gary's motor build class on the 30th. Thanks for lending an ear and help on the subject is greatly appreciated. Chuck

  4. #454
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Chuck, Sounds like you are set then! I will be pulling one of my Nats motors apart for the seminar. I plan to take it apart this weekend and glue in some new mags so that I can try a smaller airgap on the mags than what I have been running. Tuen I will try it on the track to see if my hunch is correct.... .535" diam S16C for my GTP (our Group 10) car.
    Gary Johnson

  5. #455
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    60
    In general terms .......

    The thinner .007" will ramp up and down more smoothly. It will respond better to the increase and decrease in speeds that Scale cars exhibit.

    The thicker .014" material is fine for full punched action, where you use a choke to control track power.

    Wing car arms run hotter, thus really beating up on the components that make up an armature. The constant high speed is not kind to the .007" lamination material.

    Scale cars, on some tracks, with modern gear ratios, do turn over faster. The 6 to 45 gears and small diameter tires dictate this.

    The .007" material is now a custom order, with a minimum purchase, at very high cost. More than 10 times the cost of .014" material. The .007" material order has a 16 week waiting period and must be paid for up front. I will never place another order for it again. I still have plenty.

    The .014" is the thinnest available, quite readily, at nominal cost with only a 100 LB order, practically off the shelf.

    The .007" is what we want but it cannot take recent high RPM demands. The .014" is a stronger, though less ideal material, from both magnetical and electrical standpoint. It keeps its' shape after grinding, more so than the softer .007".

    No, there is no .010" compromise, as that thickness is under .014", which is the thinnest standard lamination material made. The .010" could be had but only by custom order.

    I will soon introduce the new PK series of armatures, using .014" material. I hope that this brings back some racers, to PK Arms, who have strayed away, to find other answers, to their armature dilemma.

    Sorry for any trouble I have caused anyone by staying with the .007" material. It is just that the best Scale racers, in the World, insist on my continued use of it.

    So ....... I will add .014" lamination material to my product line. PK armatures are coming back strong. I am making four new armature lamination stamping dies.

    Will post new developments, as they happen, here on the OWH.

    Dan Miller

  6. #456
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    332
    Sorry George, but I must respond to Dan on his post. By saying that I believe Valiko has the best arms today does not mean that I am "bashing" any other product. Dan is upset because I chose to use Valiko over PK a while back. At no time did I ever "bash" PK, it is just my personal opinion. You know this to be true and I think your readers should also know. When we build we have to chose what products to put into our cars and because we chose one product over another does not mean we are "bashing" all other products. When I wrote that I chose Valiko arms it was not a "bash" on other products, only my opinion.

  7. #457
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    60
    Lee,

    Upset ???

    With all the great builders and racers out there using my armatures, that are so much better than you, why would I be upset at my own choice, not to sell to you?

    You can't possibly be that vain.

    Carry on George. I am done here.

    Dan Miller

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  8. #458
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Nr. Birmingham,England
    Posts
    108
    Hi George,
    what a shame this great thread is being spoiled.

    I suggest you remove and then ban Mr Miller who is behaving like a complete *wa**.

    Lee did not disrespect PK products in any way, he just stated his prefered choice, Mr Miller is so vain and obviously worried that he then responsds with two attacks on Lee.

    I would expect anyone to stand behind their products, but Millers defensive rhetoric is pathetic, go get a life.
    Woodyatoaklands

  9. #459
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    FLA
    Posts
    34
    And we wonder why the slot car industry is in the shape it is in today? IF the people who are "manufacturers" (Of sorts) bicker like children it sets a great example of HOW NOT TO run a business, doesn't it?

    The answer to ban someone who disagrees with you is so childish. If you don't like what someone says or represents. There are simple solutions like work within the system to change it, move on and let it go or accept it.

    The constant bickering has led me and others like me to not take slot car racing seriously as a viable hobby for me and my family. The Falcon type of motor and racing was a great idea. But the bickering in the upper classes of supposedly the "Elite of the hobby" is so stupid and counterproductive it ruins this hobby for most of us. So guess what?

    So I choose to move on and do something else where adults act like adults and not spoiled little arseholes. Thanks for making this decision easy for me and my millions.
    Last edited by manny; 04-23-2011 at 05:35 AM.

  10. #460
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Lexington Park, MD
    Posts
    207
    After last weekends race I tore down both BOW setups (Contender & 12) cleaned everything up and sent the arms off to Alpha for cut and balance. After that it was time to start playing around with the brand new ProSlot 42* .540 SuperWasp arm I had picked up from Steve. I decided to install it in the setup the BOW 12 came out of since the T5s are a few points weaker in that can. A spacer here, another spacer there and finally a perfect alignment. 45 second break in under water at 3 volts followed by some canned air and a few drops of lighter fluid on the com. Oiled everything back up and man does that puppy scream! This should be an interesting setup for JRL. The BOW 12 will be finding a new home in a fresh Cahoza UL can with T5 magnets and ether a lightweight Cahoza endbell or a ProSlot endbell, haven't decided yet. I'm very interested to see how much difference the UL can will make over the Koford feather can Monty used on my original setups. More to come later.

  11. #461
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tacoma, WA.
    Posts
    105
    This is what I like to hear. (no bickering) That was good info Reaper802

  12. #462
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    I have to keep reminding myself that this is only just over a week after a major race event, The Scale Nats, and it is pretty normal to not feel terribly motivated. But, slotcar building is a daily practice that must be maintained even if it means just putting paint masks on a body, or cleaning a chassis. With that said, last night I put the final touches on the batch of R GEO tires I did this week, rounded off all edges, cleaned them, just haven't balanced them yet....wait to get to the track for that tedious job. Also got a really good headstart on my Mack 1/24 JRL chassis. I have the rear end put together and now staring intently at the photo of the built chassis trying to figure out where to go next. I see this chassis has a center pivot, but I am already thinking of just putting a strip of bullet proofing over it instead....that always worked great with the old JK Products JRL chassis. Better get going, gotta do the grocery shopping this morning.

  13. #463
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    Slotcar Racer
    I have a mack 1/24 jrl really like the way it handle's .only problem with it is the front wheel stand offs they don't take a hit very well . First race with it a buddy used it and first heat someone came off right in front of him 1 front wheel broke off fixed it and it was good for 5 races then same thing happened with me running it .I will be fixing it again going to put a 2 Mil jig pin across front wheel stand offs hope this will do the trick.down side with this fix it won't be good for USRA .Glad I race Isra
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  14. #464
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Mic, I got the latest kit and it has provision for 3/32" front axle. I'm guessing your's had only provision for the 1/16" axle. Richard says if you use the lower strut in front (as in the photo) you can solder an axle tube across...1/8" o.d., 3/32" i.d.
    [IMG]DSCN4093[/IMG]

    I don't have any axle tubing, need to head over to Pastime Hardware to get a stick, but here's just with a 3/32" axle laid across...

    [IMG]DSCN4094[/IMG]

  15. #465
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    Slotcar Racer your right mine is the old chassi like the looks of the stand off on yours much better. Will have to have lou Pirro order me 1 . will have it ready for july in phili .
    thanks
    Last edited by Mic Byrd; 04-23-2011 at 01:44 PM.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

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