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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #691
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    Fatboy, page 44 posts #653 and onward have race reports about the Seattle Slugfest by myself, Gearbear and Slapshot, maybe others. Gearbears is comprehensive. Otherwise, yesterday and the day before, no racing, just testing yesterday.

    Somebody recommended a .047" piano wire bite bar for the X25, and that did the trick for my Group 10 yesterday. Solved the pitter patter in the 90. It was pretty much a full punch car on the Testarossa!! Ran 4.2s over and over.

    Next I gave a quick test to my B Productionw with new mounted R8 body and rebuilt 2010 Nats winning motor. Ran 4.0 flat and pulled it as I knew it would dip into 3.9s in a few more laps. I have a few more motors to test, but this car should be fine for the Super 8. My only question is do you use a 7T pinion or an 8T pinion? Hermanator was at the test session and he is saying 7T for sure....the driveability in the twisty bits outweighs the incredibly long straightaways. Anybody want to weigh in with some facts?

    The two Richard Mack Bulldog GT12s have Audi R10 bodies on them with .540" Pro Slot motors, but are doing OK, good enough to stick on the track at the hotel and make a choice.

    I tried Hermanator's new Piero ES32 car and it is bolted to the track a lot better than the Horkys. The whole challenge with that ISRA Audi R10 body is the lack of appreciable downforce. I got my new Horky down to 3.92, but I was not happy with the handling. Hermanator says his Piero ran 3.8s earlier which I think makes sense given how good it felt. This is the one class that is truly challenging my brain and patience.

    The ES24 chassis took a vacation this weekend, those can just get motors right before Phillie and they'll be fine. I am leaning towards the ISRA R10 package over the ISRA USA R8 package. Better get to "work" here....
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  2. #692
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    Do you have a photo of the Piero 32nd car?
    Robert Geibel
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  3. #693
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    Piero chassis in the middle, Gawronski won this race with it.

    005-8
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  4. #694
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Piero chassis in the middle, Gawronski won this race with it.

    005-8
    Limo chassis???? Looks really long for a 32nd.

  5. #695
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    Mike, it techs according to ISRA rules, but it is probably what the camera lens is doing to the photo...note the amount of space from the front of the body to the front of the guide compared to the other two cars. Mine is the Horky on the left, Jason's Mosetti is on the right. Another thing to note on Piero's chassis, the front "wings" are like little feet sticking outwards! That's pretty different.
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  6. #696
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    Keep in mind the aforementioned Mosetti is an old "Slotcar Racer" chassis! That little guy still handles like a champ. Of course I had the non ISRA Audi body on that day, cheater.
    Asking all things relevant-

  7. #697
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    SlotCarRacer
    I missed the prior conversations for this chassis (Piero) I assume it's a good performer.
    I did just what you said I ratioed the chassis/body/flag and it seemed to be the shortest?? What I find most revealing is the track ablation on the Piero chassis. Shallowest flag height or torsionally soft?
    Guy Middleton
    Everything I was taught in Engineering school I had already learned from slot cars....

  8. #698
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    Quote Originally Posted by MentalKase View Post
    What I find most revealing is the track ablation on the Piero chassis. Shallowest flag height or torsionally soft?
    "ablation" - that's a new word for me! But I'm guessing you mean all that black track crud on the bottom of the chassis... That would be an indication of a low-cut guide and probably no washers. Maybe even the guide shoulder was sanded even further using one of those cool guide sander tools. The other two perhaps used a guide washer, not a low-cut guide, or... they wiped them off at some point (between heats or before pic).

    Certainly an indication that the winning car had a bit lower center of gravity!

    Here's a spy photo of the prototype for the new Piero 1/32 F1 Euro chassis - taking lowering the CG to an even lower extreme:



    (this cartoon was actually from OWH original cartoonist & former editor Orin O'Neil - circa around 1971-1973? I guess he was seeing the future...)
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    Paul Kassens
    OWH Slot Car Talk "Mom"
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  9. #699
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    Quote Originally Posted by MentalKase View Post
    SlotCarRacer
    I missed the prior conversations for this chassis (Piero) I assume it's a good performer.
    Yes It is a very good proformer and well made design. I ran both Piero 1/32 an 1/24th Euro chassis at the Nats unfortunatley I just wasn't a good proformer....

    Paul I have that cartoon also you just scanned it quicker.

    Raymond

  10. #700
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    ...scanner ...picture ... I just want the motor from that thing! Talk about nano!
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  11. #701
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berteinstein View Post
    ...scanner ...picture ... I just want the motor from that thing! Talk about nano!
    That would be the "Mork" motor... "Nano-nano".

    Sorry for the thread drift SR! Sometimes I can't control myself... back to you, SR...
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    Paul Kassens
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  12. #702
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    Quote Originally Posted by MentalKase View Post
    SlotCarRacer
    I missed the prior conversations for this chassis (Piero) I assume it's a good performer.
    I did just what you said I ratioed the chassis/body/flag and it seemed to be the shortest?? What I find most revealing is the track ablation on the Piero chassis. Shallowest flag height or torsionally soft?
    MK, you are pointing out something really important. Notice how Gawronski's chassis has a lot of ablation (track scum) built up around the front of the chassis....I would call that a perfect guide set up for the track we raced on. This brings up something I have been thinking about since the Sunday test session.

    Remember I said I tried Hermanator's Italian chassis (same as Gawronski's, but the weights knocked out of the pans) and it was noticeably tighter in handling than my Horky. Herm said he ran 3.8s on Sunday, I could only get my Horky down to 3.92 and all because the rear end was wagging around like crazy. So, this week I have been studying the Horky ES32 chassis and the problem with it has always been it's way too high in front. I've used the most shallow guide available, the older Cahoza cut down graphite guide and there is still too much clearance in front.

    Two nights ago I unsoldered the little "T" holder that goes through the guide tongue. That freed up the guide tongue and center section and I gave that area under the guide tongue a good cleaning. Next I melted the solder joint for the guide tongue and got it to tilt up just a hair. When I soldered the "T" holder back in, the bottom of the "T" is now slightly higher.....sounds complicated and it is! The front end of the older Horky is really tricky. Anyway, with the slight tilt of the guide tongue, I got the front end a little lower, but still not enough.

    I'm going to try it again and this time completely remove the guide tongue. When I solder it back in, I am going to use .010" shim. I want to be able to get the front of that chassis to be ON THE TECH BLOCK with braid in the guide. I want to have to possibly shim it back up with guide spacers. As it is, you can't get it low enough, and the looseness of the handling is a symptom of the front end not being slammed enough. I'll work on this again tonight and report on it later.
    Last edited by Slotcar Racer; 06-08-2011 at 08:29 AM.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  13. #703
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldweirdherald View Post
    That would be the "Mork" motor... "Nano-nano".

    Sorry for the thread drift SR! Sometimes I can't control myself... back to you, SR...
    PK, your comments also remind me that not only have I used the most shallow Cahoza cut down guide known to man, I also sanded the bottom of the guide to make it even shallower. My sanding block is not very sophisticated, but it works well....just an old tech block with #80 sand paper stripes along each side of the slot...I know a lot of you have made your own. Sanding the bottom of the guide is a good way to get another .008" or so lower, but there is the inherent danger of making the guide too delicate. You need to keep an eye on sanded guides during a race...if you hit something, you can put a little bubble on the bottom of the guide which reeks havoc on your handling....makes the front end higher on one side, tilts the front end...it's not a good thing. If you hit something, between heats pull the braids up to inspect the front of the guide for bubbles....another lesson "the hard way" from a previous race!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  14. #704
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    SR
    the 1/32 euro thread got me to work on my 1/32 and get it finished .it sets up very nicely with just cut down guide and braids . My question would be do you use floating body mounts in front or solid ? haven't done mine yet whats you opinion and what about rear ?
    thanks
    Last edited by Mic Byrd; 06-08-2011 at 11:33 AM.
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  15. #705
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    So last night I went back to ES32 Horky #1 and disassembled the front end. Herein lies the problem:

    DSCN4139

    That's the cleaned up part which acts as the guide tongue shim. It's only .022" thick which explains why it is almost impossible to get the front end of this chassis as low as other designs.

    The rest of the parts are now cleaned up:

    DSCN4138

    The small parts: top left is the tongue shim, top right the guide tongue, bottom left is the piece that goes through the tongue and shim and aligns those parts with the chassis, and bottom right is the critical "T" piece.

    My plan for this evening is to fashion an additional guide shim using .015" steel feeler gauge. If I shim the tongue, I will have to shim that "T" piece the same amount. Note how the "T" has a wide "base"....that normally gets soldered to the top of the chassis. If I simply add the steel shims to the area the "base" sits on, it should be OK. Normally, per Speedshop secrets, you put a strip of lexan bulletproofing under the guide tongue so that it will not go up and down, but the chassis center can move sideways. With this entire assembly up .015", I'll either have to double the lexan strip, or go to a .032" feeler gauge shim, or thereabouts.

    Keep in mind that I have no idea if all this will eventually work, all I can do it try it out this weekend. In theory, if I can slam that front end down, it will improve the handling. If you ain't draggin', you laggin'
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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