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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #1021
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    "Work" became WORK today, I don't know what happened but we got slammed. Anyway, I'm lucky it doesn't get too much in the way of slotcar building. Last night I did some finishing touches on a few GT12s I'm working on including a Bulldog 3 prototype. The new Bulldog 3 kits are hitting the street in a few weeks, Mack is sending out a big shipment....where she goes, nobody knows.....The Dog 3 is radically different from Dog 1 or 2. Here is some spy information....you're gonna want this chassis folks!

    viewer

    Note the .019" cross wire at the front....ties pans together at front, but the front hinge now allows the whole assembly to slide back and forth about .032".
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  2. #1022
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    Here's an email from a reader, thought it worth sharing:

    Congrats on your podiums great effort.
    I read in your blog (which I love to read) that those little rear winglets work, is this for real?
    Therefore would you say the red body

    image003

    is more stable in the corners than the yellow body.

    image004

    Both bodies are identical.
    Curious to hear your comments

    Dear SRT reader:

    Glad you are enjoying the blog. Let me just say that with any slotcar design decision, it has to be based on testing. With that said, testing for each individual can yield widely differing design decisions. Case in point: I have done testing of body position using the Red Fox Acura on a Mack Eurosport. This "test body" had five pins positions so the body could be readily changed from very far back to far forward. This test seemed to confirm what I already preferred, the body being mounted as far back as possible (front of body almost touching the front of the guide). On the other hand, my good friend CRASH CODGER prefers just the opposite. Although he did not test this car with the moveable body, I'm willing to bet he would have preferred the body as far forward as possible. What's the conclusion of this story? You have to test things and decide what works best for you. Same goes for the rear winglets. I always leave them on the body with different amounts of trimming....sometimes I really round off the bottom tip of the body, sometimes I almost leave it as a point.

    With that said, as of late I have not cut off the winglets on purpose and tried it. But, one day Frank asked me to try his Mack eurosport to see what I thought of the motor. The winglets were cut off. The car was undriveable for me. I put one of my bodies on the car. All of a sudden it was driveable and I could give an opinion of the motor. It was a pretty stark difference between the two bodies.

    I have one other thought looking at your two pictures. The winglet does have a small amount of weight which would offset the weight of the top of the body thus lowering the c.g. I never thought of that until I looked at your two photos. Small amount of weight...yes....but anything makes a difference in slot cars.

    Slotcar Racer
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  3. #1023
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
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    I have one other thought looking at your two pictures. The winglet does have a small amount of weight which would offset the weight of the top of the body thus lowering the c.g. I never thought of that until I looked at your two photos. Small amount of weight...yes....but anything makes a difference in slot cars.
    If you painted them.... even lower CG...
    Asking all things relevant-

  4. #1024
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Great Valley,NY
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    1,227
    Maybe Jerry will come out with a newer, faster motor than the Hawk, the Chicken.

    Then we could have a new class called CHICKEN WINGS!!!

  5. #1025
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    Mike, I like that name, The Chicken. I think motors need to be named after more ordinary animals. I've named a number of mine "Dog" or "Pig", but I like "Chicken", kind of pecks around looking for food. Anyway, I'm concentrating this weekend on NORCAL LMP development of the X25/C11 combo chassis. I have the two piece X25 from the Philadelphia race to work with....and I really liked it. So now it's time to try the three piece hybrid, like a Chicken/Hawk Chawken. Pulling apart Philadelphia C Can motors which are all .540" arms, truing comms, zapping magnets and rebuilding omitting shunts. So far have one UL set up done with a BOW Contender all broken in, drawing a sweet 3.6 amps at 3 volts with no shunts. I'll put a 7T Camen pinion on it and load it up in the Chawken chassis....probably head up to SCR tomorrow to test stuff. Time to rebuild the other Contenders and Super Wasps.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #1026
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    OK, time to pack up and go to Slot Car Raceway, site of the 2012 Scale Nats. Today's test is for flexi chassis, specifically the X25 two piece versus the X25 center section with Cheetah 11 pans (.025" thickness). This should be interesting. I have them set up as two different cars right now, but I might end up trying both chassis with the same motor and same body later on in the session. Report to follow tomorrow from "work". Better get going now....
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  7. #1027
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    May 2003
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    George- Try playing with tape across the center section and pans if you need to tighten those cars up.

  8. #1028
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    701
    SR,

    I ran the X25 with the .025 pans this past week at MA's Tuesday night flexi/hawk7 race. The best car I've had to date, 2 laps off my total laps record, but the car was great. It flew through the turn at the end of the banana and the key hole. Def the way to go at MA.

  9. #1029
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    564
    SCR said "Note the .019" cross wire at the front....ties pans together at front, but the front hinge now allows the whole assembly to slide back and forth about .032". "

    SCR how does the .019 wire affect handling? I see some people that add them & some don't. Why tie the front of the pans together & how does it affect the chassis? Does it work in certain track conditions better than others?
    Why do I do this to myself?

  10. #1030
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    Quote Originally Posted by KVAN View Post
    SR,

    I ran the X25 with the .025 pans this past week at MA's Tuesday night flexi/hawk7 race. The best car I've had to date, 2 laps off my total laps record, but the car was great. It flew through the turn at the end of the banana and the key hole. Def the way to go at MA.
    Yes indeed KVAN, it appears to be a really good combo....maybe Jerry should sell it this way and call it a Cheetah 25, or an X2511, or something...
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  11. #1031
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wallbasher View Post
    SCR said "Note the .019" cross wire at the front....ties pans together at front, but the front hinge now allows the whole assembly to slide back and forth about .032". "

    SCR how does the .019 wire affect handling? I see some people that add them & some don't. Why tie the front of the pans together & how does it affect the chassis? Does it work in certain track conditions better than others?
    Rob, the reason for the wire across the front is due to the changed front hinge. On the Bulldog 1&2 the pin for the front hinge fits into a round hole with a little bit of slop. This new hinge is a sideways oval hole so the pin can slide back and forth about .032"....that is why the front end is tied together. Seems to work really well, and it is a major design change. I have a Mack Open 12 also and it has the same treatment.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  12. #1032
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    Quote Originally Posted by La Cucaracha View Post
    George- Try playing with tape across the center section and pans if you need to tighten those cars up.
    That's a great suggestion Mike. I found that the X2511 worked really well yesterday with a lot of movement. Reminds my of a Horky eurosport chassis in a way.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  13. #1033
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    I returned to Frank's on Sunday mostly to test the JK Products X25 chassis with Cheetah 11 .025" pans....it was really good with Super Wasp motor and Audi R8 body. The thing I like about the X25 center is under the cross bar you can do different things with lexan shims. It allows for some creative ideas....

    Then, it was time to put in some more time on eurosport body positioning. The Horky eurosport is staying home for the August 20th eurosport race at Slot Car Raceway! I want to give the Piero chassis a race, it's a really good chassis. This week I tested it with a Camen 480T X .300L single magnet set up, Valiko 22t25. I did 40 laps with the body far forward and did not come off once on yellow....best time 3.22. Then I put on my usual body mounted far back....in 8 laps the front end popped up and I deslotted. With the body far back as possible, it really plants the rear end, but there's a negative result from this as the front of the car gets light. So, I went back to the body mounted forward.

    I did one more test of Big Piero with the Voki 10 mag set up, Valiko 22t24.5. It was not as good, deslotted more than the previous motor, but that could have been due to my brain being oversaturated with slot cars and my thinking going down the drain...trying to push too hard. This along with the fact this motor is not rebuilt after the race in Philadelphia, I should take it apart and rebuild it. The other motor was really good though.

    Went home and took Big Piero all apart, cleaned with Fast Orange, oiled it and sealed in plastic Ziploc....will remove from bag on the morning of August 20th...takes about 15 minutes to reassemble. Better get to "work" now.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  14. #1034
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    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
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    1/32 F1 Euro HELP!!!

    WE WILL HAVE OUR FIRST NOR-CAL EUROSPORT CLUB RACE @ SCR ON SEPTEMBER 11TH(THE DAY AFTER THE NCSCRA RACE... SO SPEND THE NITE AND GET OUT THOSE EUROS!!)OPEN @ 10AM And race @ noon.............

    1/32 F1 euro
    1/32 Euro
    1/24 Euro
    This looks like it will be a good time- SR I have a question for you- it looks like from the list above we are going to be racing the 1/32 F1 Euros- how do you set up your front tyres (tyres- I think this is the proper spelling when talking about eurosports... right?) ...Above or below the bottom of the chassis. Can the be loose on the axle? Fingernail polish on the "rubber"?
    Jasn
    Asking all things relevant-

  15. #1035
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berteinstein View Post
    This looks like it will be a good time- SR I have a question for you- it looks like from the list above we are going to be racing the 1/32 F1 Euros- how do you set up your front tyres (tyres- I think this is the proper spelling when talking about eurosports... right?) ...Above or below the bottom of the chassis. Can the be loose on the axle? Fingernail polish on the "rubber"?
    Jasn
    Jasn, place the chassis on a flat block without guide. The tyres (yes, this is the proper British spelling) should just barely be touching...i.e., front tyres about even with bottom of chassis. I wouldn't bother with the finger nail polish. The fronts can be a little loose, but I think if they have become too sloppy, time to get new ones....they are really only semi functional.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

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