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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slapshot View Post
    George:

    Let me know how that turns out.

    [COLOR=purple]
    Using the 25/25 490D 250 stack in a 504-506 hole may work fine but just wanted to give you a heads up as the magnet get thinner. Works fine especially if your can is a bit wider that most.

    Raymond
    Raymond, as always you are absolutely correct. I actually abandoned the idea of using a Gulliver for this new Valiko arm I got. The reason being, the comm spacing is not right. The Gullivers are designed pretty much the same as the Speedshop small block, for the standard "PK length" armatures...which the Valiko .290 stackers fall into the same category. In fact, Lee orders his .250 stack arms from Valiko with comm spacing for the small block set up. The 250 stack 25t25 I just received has shorter comm spacing, so today I packed it up and shipped it to Joel and ordered a new quad set up for it. It'll be regular width so as not to diminish the magnet mass as you astutely notated. The Gullivers being only about .600" wide o.d. really do need the smaller diameter arms to maintain enough mag mass. Lately we've found the .470" diameter is optimal. I have a Gullie six mag with a Valiko 23/25 turned down to .470 that turns sub 3s on the Testarossa.

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scale Series View Post
    Russ:

    What is thier weight and are they available in larger sizes?
    Not sure about weight, and they are available in different sizes. Go to cahoza.cz and check out the wheel area of the website.

  3. #93
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    You know George, my main Speedshop doesn't have the Hi/Lo switch for sensitivity and I've run everything from TJet's to Euros with it and never once needed it. On my backups, both of them have them and I don't really like the feel of either one. I wish they were all like my main one.

    Unfortunately, I fried the new transistors on my main controller so I have to replace them before the next race. I also need to call Jim about my Difalco as I think I have it figured out for slower cars, but can't seem to get it dialed in for the faster classes yet.
    Gary Johnson

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry123 View Post
    Any advantage to the narrower rim? I just assumed the narrower rim would be a disadvantage, but that's what I get when I think and not test. I believe the Speedshop rims are right around .810 wide so were are talking about a pretty big difference of .023.
    Jerry, you bring up a good point, and the narrower width kind of made me wonder a little. Honestly I don't know why Cahoza is making these narrower than the legal width for ISRA International and most other racing rules. I'm afraid I might be largely swayed by, "If Horky can win with it, maybe I can do a little better with them too". But seriously, I think you can allow the tires to be .810" wide on one of these rims and the overhang will not be objectionable. We actually did this with narrow rims back in the mid 90s, often the rim were not a full .812" or whatever the hell the maximum is. Sorry Paul, I said hell. Bad word. Also some have brought up the disadvantage of the rims breaking instead of bending as magnesium does. So why did I order some Cahoza hubs? Slotcar Racer tests, tests, and tests. I haven't tried them, so it's time to give them a go. Also, I have always used the Speedshop rims fabricated by Sonic. I don't want to knock the product, but easily half of what I get is visibly out of true. I mean, they wobble. These all go to the practice pile, and they work fine for practice. I have a whole pile of Speedshop/Sonic rims that "look" true....I even touch them up on the Unimat. I do not have a run out gauge to test them, but I'll bet the ones that "look true" would show a lot more wobble than the .0027" tolerance the carbon fibers purportedly have. Eurosport rear axle calculated at up to 15,000 rpm, so balance and trueness I would think would make that extra difference. Onward with the quest for more speed.

  5. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by KVAN View Post
    Jeff don't be so persuasive.

    A 3rd Eye Fettroller in the hands of Slotcar Racer, the rest of us will be racing for second. We will have absolutely no chance of beating him. More importantly remember.............................3rd Eye service, 2nd to none! Only 6 day turn around to Howard and back!
    Kevin,

    Slotcar Race is infamous not invincible!
    The Race Place raceplaceinfo.com
    Bowskateer founding member #3
    Get a 3rd EYE Fetroller 2.1
    Balanced by Bill

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff714 View Post
    Kevin,

    Slotcar Race(r) is infamous not invincible!
    You got it right Jeff!

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldweirdherald View Post
    slotcar racer,

    if you think the carbon fiber rims are good, wait until you try them out with the latest, greatest, coolest combo yet...

    Carbon fiber tires!!!


    pk @ owh
    more glue!!!

  8. #98
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    Hey George,

    Hi there DustynI know your a busy guy, but I enjoy asking tech questions and getting input from as many builders as I can.

    How did you know we've been busy this week? Man, it has been a madhouse at work. I finally got a chance to sit down this morning and actually get in touch with my friends!

    I like building motors, and have tried so many different combinations of parts.

    I think if you stay with this last statement, you are in better shape than most people. I can sort of see what you wrote below already, and that is all a subset of "I like building motors".

    Right now I'm having the best luck with Red Fox cans, Proslot endbells and proslot copper hardware

    I really like the Red Fox three hole can and the P/S endbell is the best bargain in slotcar racing. Sometimes I use the four hole, but only if I need a really powerful almost violent motor, the can has a lot of gauss even though I don't own a gauss meter.....
    and Mura Red Dot magnets. Works great for box 12 motors .518 arms with .528 - .530 hole.

    Dustyn, when I was a track owner 1995-2000, I always kept a 12" pegboard hook full of Muras....when I got down to four pairs, it was time to reorder because by the time the Eagle order arrived, those four pairs could be sold already. They have always been a great magnet

    Scale motors .540 arms in .550 -.555 hole.

    Yep, that's the way to do it, I agree. Unfortunately, our local NORCAL series does not allow big arms for some reason....not a good reason

    I built alot of Cahoza UL set ups with Koford, Mura and T5 mags and have had decent results on the flat track, but cant get a Box 12 motor to work. Over heats in less than 10 laps.

    OK, so you have used the Cahoza stuff on your flat track, but you're getting overheating with air cars. Unfortunately, that is not my area of expertise, but if the Cahoza motors are working OK on the flat track, then just use them there, don't bother using them for the air cars.

    Ive gauss metered all mags and they Gauss considerably less in the UL can than Red Fox.
    Example:
    Mura Red Dots: 1050-1060 in RJR can, 930-950 in Red Fox/Koford UF and 800-825 in the Cahoza UL.
    Kofords new Stronger Orientation designed for Wing Car or Drag use: RJR 980-990, Redfox 900-910, Cahoza UL 800-810

    I'm not much of a believer in using meters and trying to measure stuff. I am more like your original statement "I like to build motors" so I build and build and build and test, test, test. If it doesn't work, I put that in my notebook and try not to do it again. Do you see a correlation between the higher gauss readings and performance with your Box 12 cars? If so, just stay with what works best.

    Im not an engineer or anything, but I have read alot and asked other builders questions maybe not as detailed as this, but got enough of a response to verify my theory.
    Is it the can material that spreads the magnetic field out?

    Here again I am not a theoretician, I rely on empirical evidence. If a parts combination works CONSISTENTLY, I race it and I keep building it.

    I have read the Slick 7 Magnet theory article and it talks about low magnetivity (dont think that is the correct word, but sounds good) creating heat. Is that why the Box 12 motors get hot?

    I do know that if the magnets are weak, you will get heat, then the heat makes the magnets weaker and you get a vicious cycle leading to a blow up. I knew this going back to my motor building days in the mid 60s when I rewound everything.

    I like building with the can, everything fits together well, runs super smooth.

    You are probably referring to the Cahoza stuff....yes, it all fits together so well it almost takes the fun out of motor building!!!!!

    I have 2nd guessed my building skills multiple times. I have built the UL can and aligned everything as perfect as I can, tried different air gaps .525,.528,.530,.532,.535,.538 with Mura, Koford and t5 mags. Koford 38- 42 and Proslot 38-42 arms. Tried Cahoza endbells $6 with gold hardware and heat sinks $16 retail. Tried my preference Proslot endbell and hardware kit $9 epoxied with koford endbell epoxy, S7 aluminum spring cups, champion lights, BFII, and TQ shunts. Nothing has worked.

    Easy answer: stop wasting your time with the Cahoza UL can for Box Cars.

    Ive gotten a couple to survive a race and get real hot and slow down.

    Easy answer: stop wasting your time with the Cahoza UL can for Box Car

    Am I doing something wrong?

    Yes, you are doing something wrong, you are doing the same thing over and over again expecting a different result. I believe it was Freud who referred to that as the definition of insanity.

    Or is it the can? If its the can, why are they so highly sought after?

    I think scale racers use the Cahoza stuff. Do you know any air cars guys using it?


    I know I listed a ton of parts, but wanted to be thorough.

    Yes you were thorough. I hope my answer is not too simple for you!!!!

    Also tried gearing from 8/39 to 9/39. Low downforce z28 to high downforce O/S Vette. X Hard big rim Kofords to Alpha Med Wonder on small. Too many combos to realistically list it all, but no luck.
    Well, if i left something out, let me know if you dont mind.

    It seems to me you have tested everything that does NOT work, so it is time to take notes on those combinations and do not try them any more. It is time to put your time and testing into the motor combinations that you find work best. If a motor is heating up too much and you can narrow your results down to motor components and/or gearing, then you know you are going down a dead end street, time to turn around and go back to Main Street.

    Thank you sir
    Respectfully,
    Dub

    Dustyn "Dub" Wade

  9. #99
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    Hey Jeff, don't be fooled, Slotcar Racer is dishing up a little humble pie today. I've been the recipient of this in the past right before he has administered a most thorough butt whooping. Notice who is holding the fishing pole on the cover of OWH shortly after doing the same at last years Nats @ Chicks.

    Slotcar Racer, do you know if those were Cahoza hubs Regor had at the Masters last year? They were very very nice, but mucho $$$$. I believe Brian Meharry used them in his B Production win. I have rerubbered them a couple times and they have held up very nicely, a good purchase.

  10. #100
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    Slotcar Racer has been busy the past few days prepping for a test session at Slot Car Raceway, Rohnert Park, Calif. site of the 2006 & 2008 USRA Scale Nats. Test session was yesterday and had mostly to do with more time on the FET troller. Howard drove over to the shop with Tanner the Slot Dog and readjusted the trigger as the wiper was missing the middle of the windings. Once that was accomplished, it was a lot of fast laps with my Horky 24 Euro.

    Howard is such a cool guy, he also fixed my Speedshop troller which had a resistor disconnected from one of the feel-good switches....oh yeah, those are the "hi-lo" switches Alex puts on his redesigned Ruddock. All of a sudden, the sensitivity actually works on it now! I think I'm going to end up purchasing a FET at some point in the future, it has spectacular brakes and all the sensitivity control you'd ever want.

    I'm not sure yet about the voltage choke, although I did run my 1/32 F1 Eurosport so many laps I blew the tires off it...must have been a few hundred or so.

    Back to the 24 Euro, I started with a new 455T X 300L single mag Camen set up and a PK 19t25 arm. It was quite fast and driveable with some choke. Straight up it was a bit unwieldy and lap times not as good. The track was not at it's best as there was a birthday party beforehand, and that lays down a nasty layer of Parma rental car tire.....not a good mix with european fish rubber. It takes some time to bring the track in, but it never really got as fast as it has been on other days. Anyway, I switched out motors to a Gulliver 6 mag with a Valiko 23t25 ground down to .470" and it smoked the previous motor!! I don't know why it is, but I have been down this road too many times. Try big wire armatures in big stinky set ups and it is no better than the lowly 23t25 armature. I just don't get it. Some things are not meant to be understood by mere mortals. Better go, gotta get started on some new UL set ups....

  11. #101
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    In our last episode, CRASH CODGER was seen driving home with wife Shorty from the Elephant Bar. Shorty wanted CRASH to try the ribs, but did not say anything and was therefore disappointed about the whole meal. CRASH CODGER got the shrimp with Japanese noodles instead. The visit to The Bar included CRASH CODGER’s Mom and Dad…you can only imagine how old they are considering how old the CODGER himself is. The Elephant Bar was too loud and CODGER’S Dad couldn't tell if the waitress was talking to him or to somebody else, but he wish she was talking to him cuz she was easy on the eyes. Pass the salsa. Uncle CRASH with his Japanese noodles and shrimp was having a miserable time forcing down what was supposed to look something like the appetizing full color photo on the menu.

    Meanwhile, further north and west in the State of California, Evil (Slotcar Racer) was thrashing as usual in his workshop hard at work ruining a new armature. Today there is a Unimat lathe sitting in a closet being punished for its indiscretions. We’ll go no further with details.

    As Sunday continued, CRASH CODGER pulls into Casa Hood and proceeds immediately to the slot room where he finds the two PS 16D motors instead of the one 16D and one S16D thanks to the dummies who sent them. The bathroom had some FAST ORANGE cleaner which CRASH CODGER thought he'd try cleaning some of the dreaded rusty chassis. Not knowing how long it takes Evil to clean a chassis, CRASH CODGER is wondering what to do not realizing it depends on how bad the rust is. Little did he know that Evil uses the pumice cleaner mostly to clean up minor rust spots on bare steel chassis after races.

    While all this is going on, illegitimate son Herman is even further north in the City of Fairfield running his children around the neighborhoods at speeds approaching 100mph thinking that he is back in the days when he was a real race car driver (haaaa haaaaaa haaaaaa….wwwweeeeeeeeee) or even drag racing on San Pablo Dam Road. The children are huddled in the back seat trying not to scream for fear it will break the insane trance their father is currently in and he might actually drive into a tree. They just want the ride to be over and for their illegitimate Grandfather (CRASH CODGER) to visit them.

    The day continues as our view shifts 750 miles further north to the great land of Seattle where Mikeeee is putting a Spatula Eurosport on Old Weird Herald to sell. As he types, tears are streaming down his face in his own self pity over the terrible Seattle weather. "AAwwww, pooooorrr Mikkeeeeee" he is thinking as he types in the description for the spatula slot car.

    Then, later that day our attention shifts some 3,000 miles east to Appomattox, Virginia where an ancient mad scientist is working late into the night running machines and repeating to himself the incantation:

    TEAM CAMEN LOGIC
    TEAM CAMEN LOGIC
    TEAM CAMEN LOGIC
    TEAM CAMEN LOGIC
    TEAM CAMEN LOGIC
    TEAM CAMEN LOGIC
    TEAM CAMEN LOGIC
    TEAM CAMEN LOGIC....

    So Sunday merged into Monday and CRASH CODGER woke up early in the morning with barely any sunshine as he opens his bedroom window. He looks outside, stretches and thinks to himself, "THE USUAL". Another days begins in the lives of CRASH and Evil.

  12. #102
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    What no pictures?

  13. #103
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    Last night Slotcar Racer did some work leftover from the ISRA World Championship held in October at Mid America Raceway, Downers Grove, Illinois. This was the much needed learning to adjust the pan height of the new Horky 24 Eurosport chassis. I finally acquired the tools needed to make good pan adjustments, then just put in the time last night to figure out a way to do it. Last week I got a new flat aluminum block, something I've needed to really check the set up of chassis. I've had an allie block for years, but it is kind of messed up. Also picked up a new Corian block at TNT Raceway in Modesto.

    PG (Paul Gawronski) received a lesson from Vladimir at the Worlds on how to make the adjustment, and PG passed that on to me one evening. I finally figured out that it really takes a strip of .010" bullet proofing under each pan to get the pans to be level with the bottom of the center section. I had tried the .005" bullet proofing before, but the pans still hang too low. The other trick is to stick a 2" long piece of stainless pin tubing on the end of the pin on the chassis....this is the pin you have to unsolder to adjust the height. Adding the pin tube gave me something to hold on to and to keep the whole thing parallel to the board.

    OK, did this adjustment last night and then turned down a pair of used euro tires all the way down to .595" and put them on the car. Hurray, under the axle uprights I have .007" clearance, and both pans just click on the block when I push them down, so they have sufficient clearance to allow the car to run the tires down to zero.

    By the end of the week, I should have my new tall block from Joel, that's a SINGLE MAG .480"T X .300"L set up....those are tall and narrow singles folks. I'm planning to put a Valiko 22t24.5 in it, then it goes into the Horky and we'll test both the motor, and run the tires down to nothing. Report to follow. Gotta go...

  14. #104
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    Slotcar Racer, thanks for passing along the Horky chassis tip, if you see Paul G. tell him thank you as well! As detail oriented as Mr. Horky is, and as expensive as his chassis are, I find it troubling that he lets the chassis out the door without this being adjusted correctly.

  15. #105
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    Kevin Van Pelt, midwest slotcar racer, you are welcome. Now a few more of us are "in the know" about how Vladimir does things. Supposed they come adjusted for the 3 minute heat (except when there is .015" of rubber on the track) race and you raise the pans as you move up and the heats get longer. I think with practice, one can get good at making this adjustment, and the pin tube idea works well. PG even said you might run the pans ABOVE the center section for 5 minute heats. After I test this weekend, I may even try that setting and see how it works.

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