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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #1171
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    Steen, thanks for this contribution, I'm going to print this out and try some of these readings you suggest up at Frank's if I can manage to figure it out. Hopefully Frank will help me with it, he knows a lot about controllers. Seems like a great way to test controllers to see how they compare. Do you think the Slick 7 power supply will be sufficient for the test?
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  2. #1172
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    SR
    Not to get off the controller subject very informative as are all the topics in this thread .Just got done braking all the piece out of my dog 3 that arrived in today's mail .will debur tonight and start build tomorrow night sure could use a picture of 1 complete got most of it figured out except the way the rear pans attach .
    thanks in advance
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  3. #1173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    SR
    Not to get off the controller subject very informative as are all the topics in this thread .Just got done braking all the piece out of my dog 3 that arrived in today's mail .will debur tonight and start build tomorrow night sure could use a picture of 1 complete got most of it figured out except the way the rear pans attach .
    thanks in advance
    Mic, the controller thing may have run out of wind for now, glad you brought up the subject of Dog 3. Do you have a previous Dog? Rear of pans is identical to the older Dogs 1 & 2. I'll get some photos out soon. Richard emailed me a Word document with the steps for building and photos, but I think the photos are super high resolution so the whole document is so big it makes the computer crash. I wish I had a way of picking those photos out of the Word document, they are really good photos. Building the Dog 3 is pretty much same as previous versions except you have a motor box brace integrated into the pillow block installation. The guide tongue is easy as is the front hinge pieces and the piano wire rails. Once you have that done, the center section is complete. Oh yeah, the spine. Be sure to put the little "D" shaped piece (in photo below) on the spine before you solder that together....it goes behind the guide tongue. After than, you just put the bits on the pans.

    There is one piece on the outside of the pan that has the pin tube.....pin tube to the rear (part in photo below).

    DSCN4326


    The other crossbar guide (in the photo below) is the one that is soldered to the center section. With this part, the hole goes towards the front, the little tab to the rear.

    DSCN4322

    Then on the inside of the pan, align the remaining guide so the hole lines up with the outer pan part and the part attached to the center section..so the crossbar goes through all three parts (a total of six parts) on each side. Blah blah blah, I'll post a photo of a completed chassis later....
    Last edited by Slotcar Racer; 09-01-2011 at 04:10 PM.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  4. #1174
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    this is my first dog. have 2 open 12 macks but no dogs yet except my daughters golden doodle have rear figured out now thanks for the help .what size bite bar do you use
    need to pick up some wire from the train store near by.
    Thanks again
    PS just got done looking at pictures of Lou"s place and I'm sick over them myself and the crazy eight where just starting to get along Slot racing has lost a great flat track it will be remembered
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  5. #1175
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    this is my first dog. have 2 open 12 macks but no dogs yet except my daughters golden doodle have rear figured out now thanks for the help .what size bite bar do you use
    need to pick up some wire from the train store near by.
    Thanks again
    PS just got done looking at pictures of Lou"s place and I'm sick over them myself and the crazy eight where just starting to get along Slot racing has lost a great flat track it will be remembered
    OK Mic and Tony, I hope this works, these are the official USRA instruction sheets. Mic, use .055" for the cross bar and .047" for the rails.

    Mic, you're right, the photos of Lou's place are sickening. I feel grateful I was able to race on the Super 8, but so sad to see the photos of it now. I have every confidence in Lou and Marybeth to recover fully from this.

    viewer
    viewer2
    viewer3
    Last edited by Slotcar Racer; 09-02-2011 at 12:08 PM. Reason: made duh picchurs biggr
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #1176
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    Mssr Slotcar Racer:
    It has been a couple of years since I used Word on a regulr basis because that's a piece of S'ware related to working person and I aint.

    Try "right click" on the image. I think you get "save & save as" options for the photo. If you pick "save" it will use your default graphics SW. If you have more than one then you can choose the SW from there using "save as" ....or I'm wrong... or it may allow you to save it as a jpg or a pdf (pdf you can't edit).

    and as I think n type...
    if you just double click on the photo it executes Word's graphic tool and opens the pic in it. Try that first. I thin it allows cutting, re-sizing, B&W adj etc. Then from there I think you can save it in a few different formats and do some compression and reduce the file size down. I always save graphics in the original form (max size) and make a copy and do all the editing from there.

    Guy
    Guy Middleton
    Everything I was taught in Engineering school I had already learned from slot cars....

  7. #1177
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    Thanks for posting the instruction sheets SR!

    It is so sad to see the photo's of Grand Prix Raceway! I truly hope that they are able to recover from this.
    Gary Johnson

  8. #1178
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearBear View Post
    Thanks for posting the instruction sheets SR!

    It is so sad to see the photo's of Grand Prix Raceway! I truly hope that they are able to recover from this.
    You're welcome Gary. I just changed the image size for better viewing.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  9. #1179
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    .....so THAT'S where the "D" goes- it all seems so much clearer when there are instructions!

    Jasn
    Asking all things relevant-

  10. #1180
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    The plan for this weekend is to get as much stuff built as possible today, and go to Slot Car Raceway tomorrow (site of the 2006, 2008 and 2012 USRA Scale Nats) to try the Pro 2 Copy, and test stuff for next weekend.

    So far I have a new Starfarter on my 2009 Bulldog and a Cahoza UL set up T5s but with a .535" hole and a Koford .518" arm in it. It's a ballistic motor and there is no law stating you have to run armatures larger than .518". However, I do have a .540" Pro Slot in same Cahoza style set up to try too.

    New Audi R10 mounted on the X25.11.025 with freshened up Contender from the race a few weeks ago. Now I need to get going on the extra cars, the "back ups" (that sometimes end up as the "race car")
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  11. #1181
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    New Jersey
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    SR
    Have the dog 3 rear all jigged up and ready for some heat very nice chassis to work with, built a hawk 7 with the replacement end bell and proslot american arm this motor has a big future in slot racing in IMHO .Back to work now will post update on dog 3
    Thanks for all the info on the dog 3 also
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  12. #1182
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    SR
    Have the dog 3 rear all jigged up and ready for some heat very nice chassis to work with, built a hawk 7 with the replacement end bell and proslot american arm this motor has a big future in slot racing in IMHO .Back to work now will post update on dog 3
    Thanks for all the info on the dog 3 also
    Good deal Mic. Yeah, it's a good chassis to work with for sure. I got enough stuff done today that I went ahead and built another Dog 3. This one I am trying a .032" spine and .039" solid rails. My favorite 2009 Dog is .047" rails soldered solid, and it is bolted. My thinking is, the new Dog 3 has some much more additional stiffening (motor box brace, spine) that it's time to try some things to loosen it a bit. I've heard too many consistent reports of pitter patters in the turns which is telling me the chassis may have gotten too tight. So, I'll test out the smaller wires tomorrow and report in later.

    As for your Hawk 7 Mic, I have absolutely no experience with those smaller motors, but if they weigh less, that must be a great handling and power advantage.

    Tomorrow I really need to build up my Castricone ES32 chassis too and put in the new Camen "Fat Boy" motor, that's the one with the .720" long arm length. Got the 23t25 arm back from Joel for reconditioning, now time to reassemble the motor and also assemble the Baby Piero.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  13. #1183
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Good deal Mic. Yeah, it's a good chassis to work with for sure. I got enough stuff done today that I went ahead and built another Dog 3. This one I am trying a .032" spine and .039" solid rails. My favorite 2009 Dog is .047" rails soldered solid, and it is bolted. My thinking is, the new Dog 3 has some much more additional stiffening (motor box brace, spine) that it's time to try some things to loosen it a bit. I've heard too many consistent reports of pitter patters in the turns which is telling me the chassis may have gotten too tight. So, I'll test out the smaller wires tomorrow and report in later.

    As for your Hawk 7 Mic, I have absolutely no experience with those smaller motors, but if they weigh less, that must be a great handling and power advantage.

    Tomorrow I really need to build up my Castricone ES32 chassis too and put in the new Camen "Fat Boy" motor, that's the one with the .720" long arm length. Got the 23t25 arm back from Joel for reconditioning, now time to reassemble the motor and also assemble the Baby Piero.
    That sounds alot like what I have found with the mac open 12 chassis you need to really make the chassis lose to make it work.

    Most C can motor dont have the power to twist the chassis.

    You might want to try the chassis with out the spine just to see if it is the spine or the motor box that is making the chassis dig.
    Michael Mazur
    Ruzam Racing
    Team ProSlot

  14. #1184
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    Quote Originally Posted by mazur50 View Post
    That sounds alot like what I have found with the mac open 12 chassis you need to really make the chassis lose to make it work.

    Most C can motor dont have the power to twist the chassis.

    You might want to try the chassis with out the spine just to see if it is the spine or the motor box that is making the chassis dig.
    I went to SCR on Sunday where I practiced on green with Mike Rocha on red, Ted Essy on purple and Vegas was working on his stuff in the corner. Did all my running with the Bob Budge Pro 2 copy controller and I really liked it. I put in the #50 chip just as a guess and it worked great with the C Can cars. It had a much better range of sensitivity settings. The dials are nicely marked 0-10 and I had sensitivity mostly around 4-5. The #50 was too much for eurosport, it made the car kick out, so when I go back this weekend for eurosport racing I will try some of the higher numbers like the #60 or the #80something, I think 82.5. Basically the controller did not "get in my way" at all, it felt natural. In fact, it felt much like my Speedshop controller only with enhanced sensitivity adjustments. My lap times were excellent on the green lane for the LMP and GT12 classes using the new controller. I was really thrashing on the cars so I forgot to put the speedshop troller on to make a side by side comparison....in hindsight that would have been good....but the Budgie worked so well I was content.

    Mike, I first started using the Bulldog when I won the last Cobalt 12 Eurosport championship at Mid America in Montgomery. The car was set up with .032" rails soldered solid. At that 2009 Nats I was planning to run the Stinger in GT12, but because the new Bulldog ran so well in C12, I thought I would just solder a C Can 12 in it. It worked horribly, not because of any torque issues but I believe the change in weight from a cobalt 12 to a C Can 12. So, I went with the Stinger in the race. When I got home, I tried .039" wires in the Bulldog and it was better, but still did not hook up well. Then I installed the solid .047" piano wire and since then, that is all I've used. In fact, I have always soldered both ends of the rails solid and it has always worked best FOR ME that way. I ran the Dog 3 prototype in Philadelphia on the late Super 8 track with quite a bit of rear steer (and .047" rails) and I really like it on that track for that race. However, it doesn't work well at Frank's. The new Dog 3 I just built is now in that Phillie configuration and I need to try it on Saturday to see how it works. My race car for Saturday is still a 2009 Dog, same one I used in Chicago for the Nats a few months ago.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  15. #1185
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
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    SR
    MY dog 3 is complete Built it with .032 spine and .039 rails with no steer will see Friday night if it works good enough for Sunday race if not have the tazer ready and the Saunders gt-12 10. will let you know
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

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