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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #121
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    SR...........do you know the part number of the JK BMW?
    Resident Curmudgeon
    "Manta" Ray Price

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Slotcar Racer
    Got to try an x-25 specially for those tough races . takes a licking and keeps on ticking . 047 bite bar and a body with a little less down force and your rocking.
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  3. #123
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    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mic Byrd View Post
    Slotcar Racer
    Got to try an x-25 specially for those tough races . takes a licking and keeps on ticking . 047 bite bar and a body with a little less down force and your rocking.
    Mic, I'd love to use my X25 for NORCAL....but like large diameter C Can arms, it is not legal. Tempting to use the Champion chassis I used for ISRA Production at the Worlds, it's actually a really good one, and we know the Champion can take a lot....Right now starting to build a Tazer for Hermanator....have the parts cut off and just soldered in the pillow blocks....now on to the guide tongue....

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by MantaRay View Post
    SR...........do you know the part number of the JK BMW?
    Ray I didn't save the header card...threw it in recycling then squirted the body. It's the open cockpit one, I'm pretty sure it's JK 7184A. Really good body, Lee Gilbert recommended it to me. I tried it against the other usual bodies and it's a winner for me.
    Last edited by Slotcar Racer; 01-29-2011 at 04:23 PM.

  5. #125
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    Jan 2011
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    Richmond, CA
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    Got a lot done this morning. Rebuilt my 32 Euro motor I ran at The Worlds. Same motor that won the USRA Nats both 32 AND 24 Euro, one of those good ones. It's just a plain old Speedshop small block, a little shorter mags than usual, .390"T X .330"L and a Valiko 23t25. Simple stuff. Did a big clean up on Horky 32 Euro chassis #1, then installed the motor, new tires, good body. Will run some laps with the FET controller with this car this afternoon. Better pack up my stuff and load the car. Gotta go.

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    701
    Slotcar Racer, when is Mom going to give you your own thread in the "Tech Tips Q & A" section?

    You are the only expert I see giving any useful tips on a regular basis. I find, and I'm sure others do as well, your daily blog of racing experiences very helpful and enlightening compared to all of the other drama seen on here regularly!

    Mom, are you watching? 124 replies and 4700 views in less than a month, with all very respectful posts and questions.
    Last edited by KVAN; 01-30-2011 at 08:52 PM. Reason: statistics

  7. #127
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    Nov 2003
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    Reno
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    SR-
    Have you noticed that when mounting bodies on the Horky Chassis that the body wants to pull the pans up in the air? I am not sure that this is the ideal position for the pans- I have tried a couple of different bodies and have even tried increasing the crease on the edges of the bodies and decreasing the crease on the edges- but nothing seems to help- any thoughts? Also thank you for the pictures on the pan ride height adjustment, my head can now return to the standard dull painlessness it usually feels-
    Jason
    Asking all things relevant-

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by KVAN View Post
    Slotcar Racer, when is Mom going to give you your own thread in the "Tech Tips Q & A" section?

    You are the only expert I see giving any useful tips on a regular basis. I find, and I'm sure others do as well, your daily blog of racing experiences very helpful and enlightening compared to all of the other drama seen on here regularly!

    Mom, are you watching? 124 replies and 4700 views in less than a month, with all very respectful posts and questions.
    Kevin, as always very kind words, thank you. Paul and I discussed this a month ago. My thought was to keep it on Slotcar Talk in order to keep us talking about slotcars. I'll PM Paul and see what his thoughts are. I'm open to anything as long as it keeps us on the subject of how we work on our slotcars.

  9. #129
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    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berteinstein View Post
    SR-
    Have you noticed that when mounting bodies on the Horky Chassis that the body wants to pull the pans up in the air? I am not sure that this is the ideal position for the pans- I have tried a couple of different bodies and have even tried increasing the crease on the edges of the bodies and decreasing the crease on the edges- but nothing seems to help- any thoughts? Also thank you for the pictures on the pan ride height adjustment, my head can now return to the standard dull painlessness it usually feels-
    Jason
    Jason, I have not noticed that. Herman and I spent about 3 hours straight yesterday with my Horky. We were testing different trollers....we went through three sets of tires!!!! The track had a lot of rubber on it and was just eating up tire mileage. I will go home and check my car, but that is the sort of thing I watch out for. If it is goofing around with the pans, we'll need to find a way out of that problem. Lemme check it out.

    We tested my new Camen single mag set up, it's a .480T X .300L magnets, sort of same dimensions as the Valiko radials, but these are singles. It is really sweet. Herman got a number of 3.0s, and the track was really in need of cleaning. Not only a lot of rubber, but dried up too. The car unloaded a number of times it was so tight. But we ran a Valiko 22t24.5 arm in this set up. I loaded up the Gulliver six mag with the Valiko 23t25 after a few hours of testing and it was very quick, but lap times not as fast.

    With the controllers, I better think about what I want to say about that a little more before I post something. I want to be precise about my feedback.

  10. #130
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    I’ve had to think a couple of days about controllers before saying anything. In our testing on Sunday, Herman and I ran one car, my Horky eurosport, and tested two Speedshops (my Dr. Verdo and the latest design by Alex), Ryan’s Carsteen, Howard’s FET demo controller, and Herman’s Czech controller modified by Howard. Both the FET and the Carsteen are really quite different from the Speedshops. Both Herman and I had to make major “driver modifications” to get the same result for the car. Using “Speedshop Driver Input” with the FET resulted in the car going all crazy, especially in the esses on the Testarossa. However, like I said, that craziness could be modified by changing how we drove. I can’t say if in the long run that would be more work, but it certainly left us thinking that if the Speedshop works OK with a eurosport, no need to change to something else and on top of it change driving style. Interestingly, the modified Czech controller felt very similar to the Speedshop and we got the fastest lap times with it. The only conclusion I can come to is this: you just have to pick a controller and master your driving. I drove a Carsteen exclusively for well over a year and had a lot of success with it. However, once I bought the Dr. Verdo Speedshop, I used it exclusively for Eurosport. Herman and I both agree that the Speedshop is very driveable for eurosport….it delivers an almost brain-dead kind of driveability. You can go on auto pilot, let the car float around the track and watch for wrecks more easily. Now, that isn’t to say you could learn the same thing with another controller….it’s just that for me right now I own two Speedshops, so it doesn’t make much sense at this moment to add another controller to my inventory that is so different in feel.

  11. #131
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    May 2002
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    so cal
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    535
    Mr SR Sir-
    What difference, if any, does the Dr. V SS controller have over others?

    Thanks in advance!

  12. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike K View Post
    Mr SR Sir-
    What difference, if any, does the Dr. V SS controller have over others?

    Thanks in advance!
    Mike Kravitz, bet you aren't flying into Midway today! The Speedshop controllers, as you know, are redesigned Ruddock DR40s. I think Dr. Verdo may have worked with Alex on the sensitivity resistors on his troller because it has higher sensitivity than my original orange handled one. Lee Gilbert has had several of these controllers over the years and says they are all a little bit different from eachother. Dunno why, maybe because it is kind of a handbuilt conversion? I know Lee has always liked Alicia's controller, that's been a good one. Greg Gilbert has had a number of Alex conversions over the years and has done pretty well (!) with them. My orange handle Speedshop has a switch that Alex added recently which turns off the power relay, great for F1 Eurosport. That reminds me of one thing Howard pointed out about the FET, you do not have a jump as you do on a troller with a power relay. The control is even from the braking position to the full position because of no full power relay.

  13. #133
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    Jun 2002
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    Land of Excitement "Bensenville"
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    The transistor is the cause for the difference from full power with the relay and with out. There is a .7 volt difference.

    When you turn the relay off you are apply a voltage choke to the controler just like you get when turning the relay off on the pro3.

    You don't have the voltage drop when using a MOSFET. Hence you don't need the relay. But as the heat is increase in the MOSFET the resistance will increase. I my self would still like a relay on a MOSFET controller for tracks like a king. But turn it off on a flat track or gutters on a king. George let me know if you want to make your controller more sensitive.

    Mike

    I typed this on my phone so I will correct errors when I get home
    Michael Mazur
    Ruzam Racing
    Team ProSlot

  14. #134
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Land of Excitement "Bensenville"
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    The transistor is the cause for the difference from full power with the relay and with out. There is a .7 volt difference.

    When you turn the relay off you are apply a voltage choke to the controler just like you get when turning the relay off on the pro3.

    You don't have the voltage drop when using a MOSFET. Hence you don't need the relay. But as the heat is increase in the MOSFET the resistance will increase. I my self would still like a relay on a MOSFET controller for tracks like a king. But turn it off on a flat track or gutters on a king. George let me know if you want to make your controller more sensitive.

    Mike

    I typed this on my phone so I will correct errors when I get home
    Michael Mazur
    Ruzam Racing
    Team ProSlot

  15. #135
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    Jun 2002
    Location
    fairfield ca.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berteinstein View Post
    SR-
    Have you noticed that when mounting bodies on the Horky Chassis that the body wants to pull the pans up in the air? I am not sure that this is the ideal position for the pans- I have tried a couple of different bodies and have even tried increasing the crease on the edges of the bodies and decreasing the crease on the edges- but nothing seems to help- any thoughts? Also thank you for the pictures on the pan ride height adjustment, my head can now return to the standard dull painlessness it usually feels-
    Jason
    Hey Jason, i had an issue very close to yours, and what i found was that i had the body mounts on the chassis to far out and too much reinforcement on the body ( adhesive + ninja star + .010 bullet proofing and celo tape) on both sides . Hope that helps......... see you in a couple weeks?

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