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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #1351
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sacto,Ca
    Posts
    202
    Hey Ron! I second SCR's statement about Frank at SCR raceway. Initials are the same but no connection. He builds absolute rockets. Give Frank a call or Email , he'll ask some pertinant questions and and get your rockets built and on their way to you. I know he and a couple of others went to the Nats in Chicago last spring and they had easily the fastest cars in the GT classes. Gus in Sacto

  2. #1352
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Cleveland, TN
    Posts
    709
    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    Hi Ron. In this thread, I by no means purport to be any kind of slotcar guru. However, I do work on my stuff every day and write about it. That's pretty much this thread in a nutshell. That said, I do not have a bunch of experience with 16D motors. Much depends on your rules. Saying anything is "the best" should only be based on what you have tested yourself. What is "the best" today at one raceway may be garbage on another day at another raceway. I know you're probably hating my answers so far, so I will continue....lately I have had personal experience with a borrowed (thanks CRASH CODGER) Kelly D2 set up with a .540" Pro Slot arm at the ISRA Nationals in Philadelphia. The motor ran really well in a scale car with a GTP body. I almost ran a Pro Slot FX set up with a .580" airgap and a BOW .560 arm with 45* timing, my only 16D motor at present. I think Frank at SCR is building mostly the Pro Slot set ups and his stuff is ridiculously fast. From a supply standpoint, I think it is much easier to obtain Pro Slot motor set ups and armatures than other products. I might be wrong about that, but again I am speaking from my experience as of late.
    Can't disagree that Frank and Fred both build bullets. I had Dustyn "Dub" Wade of Wade Raceway build my 16D Nascar motor and it is no slouch either. It is a Red Fox can with Proslot .560 42* arm. Make a couple of calls, ask some questions, give good info and one of them should be able to help.
    Alan Ingram

  3. #1353
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Cleveland, TN
    Posts
    709
    So what motor is slated for the new Eurosport?
    I know Lee Gilbert has been playing with a "mystery" motor.

    BTW have a good time on Vashon...sorry I couldn't wait
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Alan Ingram

  4. #1354
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Nampa, Idaho
    Posts
    421
    Quote Originally Posted by Ingram View Post
    So what motor is slated for the new Eurosport?
    I know Lee Gilbert has been playing with a "mystery" motor.

    BTW have a good time on Vashon...sorry I couldn't wait
    Beuf is also building a new motor with the .620 OD Koford Can. Its extremely smooth and fast. The can is way short, handles awesome.
    "Dub" Wade
    Nampa, ID
    208-392-0639
    dustynwade@ymail.com
    Dub Motors, Dub Rides, Dub Winged bodies, PMP Chassis, Paint by Odie, Bone Bodies.
    Of course Balance by Beuf
    3rd Eye Controllers

  5. #1355
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Oh no Paul, FX is on the loose again, can anybody stop him??? I think he's escaped and creating problems on the blog once again.

    Last night did more work on the new Mack 1/32 F1...wish I was in Brazil to race it, but of course that is several hundred dollars in plane fare, visa, hotel, etc and besides, the Mack car isn't completed yet. Wishful thinking. Anyway, Richard instructed me to solder in a couple of .032" brass inserts at the rear of the chassis to prevent the motor magnets from affecting the pans, so that's what I worked on last night. Pat Skene sent me photos of the finished prototype from the 32 Nats a while ago, and the whole rear pin/stop assembly sure looks odd in Pat's photos. Richard assures me the rear pin is parallel to the bottom of the chassis. More head scratching. Getting close to time to put in axle bearings and get the Piero Spec motor mounted with a Vitula gear.


    DSCN4387 by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    Just needs to be soldered now.
    Last edited by Slotcar Racer; 10-04-2011 at 10:54 AM.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  6. #1356
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    12
    SCR,
    is the purple paint insulation? If so, what type?
    Fred

  7. #1357
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    Looks like Purple Arm Dye to me.
    Gary Johnson

  8. #1358
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    GearBear is right, it is purple arm dye, a diluted Dykem sold as Lucky Bob. I put it on steel chassis to keep them from rusting too quickly, especially when I am working on the thing where there is acid flux spraying all over the place every time I solder something. I'll probably remove it when the chassis is done....or, then again, might just leave it there.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  9. #1359
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Fall City, WA
    Posts
    1,364
    I kinda like the purple George! I might have to try that myself. I can't seem to keep anything from rusting these days. The river makes so much humidity that they start to rust in just a few hours.
    Gary Johnson

  10. #1360
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Gary, I know a lot of guys use the dye on steel chassis. I remember first seeing it back in the 90s when Michael "OD" McDonnell was the premier chassis builder, his were always all yellow dye. I tried red dykem once and it looked too gory.

    Speaking of the purple dye, I got along quite far in the Mack F1 project last night, but only after finishing building a Mack 1/24 Eurosport. I installed a nice Koford 16 mag motor with a 19t25 in it. Motor came with 2mm shaft so out came Mr. Dremel to grind it down to 1.5mm. I must say that the drill blank material seemed much harder than that used by Valiko, Pro Slot or Camen....either that or my cut off wheel was dull.....It must have taken me a good 15 minutes to get this one whittled down to 1.5mm, but it came out real purty and a great fit. Threw one of my best Horky pinions on it, and then proceeded with the motor mounting procedure which went very smoothly. The motor seemed quite stout on the analyzer and I expect this one to be a rocket. Got the leadwires installed and finishing touches on the Red Fox Audi R10 (ISRA)....car ready to race!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  11. #1361
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
    Posts
    1,279
    Well, the soldering iron stays hot, the acid flux fumes soar into the sky, the silver solder flows and the slotcar work continues. A fairly active evening last night starting by rebuilding a GT12 motor, just got the PS arm back from Camen reconditioning. Perfect balance as usual. I recommend the Camen balance particularly for the PS arms as we don't want to drill holes very deep on these guys according to the mfg. Deep holes can potentially lead to laminations escaping the engine room. Anyway, this arm is a new one, has been through a good heat cycle and then reconditioned. It sounded fabulous on the analyzer. The set up is one of the Cahoza ones with the white dot T3 magnets in it. Those set ups have successfully taken all the fun out of building slot car motors. I feel like a mere trigger monkey now.

    Next project was finishing up the Mack F1 chassis. With necessary encouragement from Richard Mack, I got the little brass squares in the back end finally.


    DSCN4388 by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    Also got a new Piero Spec F1 motor in the mail....unfortunately no armature yet, but have one on order, a 45t29 like the Camen one. One thing I found with this new Mack chassis is that even with the super short Camen set up, the center pivot of the chassis is incredibly far back so I am going to have to excavate the endbell of the motor to get it to sit down on top of the chassis. Looks like the armature will be the only thing hanging into the square hole of the chassis. Onward to Seattle tomorrow.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  12. #1362
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    SR
    1 more day of work and I get a weekend off been real busy the past month no time for slot cars and my program shows it but back to some fun work this weekend 2 dog 3's to build and a lot of motor work mostly mine have a race next Friday night and Saturday at the Isra club on the UK black.that f-1 chassis is looking real fine hope it runs as good as it looks . What happened to Herman don't see him in Brazil ?
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  13. #1363
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
    Posts
    155
    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    The set up is one of the Cahoza ones with the white dot T3 magnets in it. Those set ups have successfully taken all the fun out of building slot car motors. I feel like a mere trigger monkey now.
    George, curious you mention a trigger monkey... and the setups in the same post- I was thinking the same thing- the Cahoza guys really got this correct with this T3 (white dot magnet) and UL set-up. I use to build ALL of my setups, but now I just replace the bushing with a bearing, hone, assemble and race! A big thumbs high to Cahoza!

    Baitedbreath-
    Asking all things relevant-

  14. #1364
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Berteinstein View Post
    George, curious you mention a trigger monkey... and the setups in the same post- I was thinking the same thing- the Cahoza guys really got this correct with this T3 (white dot magnet) and UL set-up. I use to build ALL of my setups, but now I just replace the bushing with a bearing, hone, assemble and race! A big thumbs high to Cahoza!

    Baitedbreath-
    You got that right Treb, the T3s seem better than the T6s (yellow dot) I've been using. Building with the Cahoza LU can, endbell, etc is hardly any fun.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

  15. #1365
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
    Posts
    155
    Quote Originally Posted by Slotcar Racer View Post
    You got that right Treb, the T3s seem better than the T6s (yellow dot) I've been using. Building with the Cahoza LU can, endbell, etc is hardly any fun.
    It does make the wife happy! I don't have to use the oven for anything other than "real food". I have noticed that terminator 3 magnets seemed to be held to the can with a gray substance- do you know if this is JB weld?

    Htaerbdetiab-
    Asking all things relevant-

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