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Thread: Slot Car Racer Today

  1. #1396
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    1,279
    Here's photos of the latest Mack ES32 chassis....I ran it at the first Norcal Eurosport Club race on Sept 11th. Not a difficult build with photo of complete chassis, but a bit of a puzzle without instructions or photo!


    DSCN4395 by svtgeorge, on Flickr


    DSCN4397 by svtgeorge, on Flickr


    DSCN4396 by svtgeorge, on Flickr
    Last edited by Slotcar Racer; 10-18-2011 at 12:40 PM. Reason: Eurosport club race, not Uncle Frank's B'day race
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  2. #1397
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
    Posts
    155
    Not that there is not a cure for this, but I am thinking I may have a bent shaft, on the hone-
    ninerninerrodgercopyover

    Jasn
    Asking all things relevant-

  3. #1398
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    Jan 2011
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    Richmond, CA
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    Bert, my .560" hone I think has a bent shaft too, when I pull it through a set up, it's shaking like a nugafonos, but still seems to cut the hole same size. I wonder if you can take a large hammer and knock that 2mm shaft out of the hone and replace it with a 2mm axle.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  4. #1399
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sacto,Ca
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    202
    Hey SCR! This is a family channel, watch your nugoes. Gus in Sacto

  5. #1400
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Reno
    Posts
    155
    Slot,
    That might be the ticket to the big promise land for some of my outdated 1/24 euro axles- I am pretty sure I soldered the shaft to the hone on my current hones, as they would sometimes slip- I think with some timing and heat I should be able to remove one from the other. Now where did I put that hammer-

    nugafonos- google said that there were only 63 (at the time of writing this, now I am guessing that there is 64) for this word? It appears as though there is a company in Palo Alto with this name...? I am guessing this is a term for intense shaking or vibration; seemingly like an "unbalanced armature".

    Jasn

    Looking at photo DSCN4395 on this page- looks like you decided to loose that weight after all?
    Last edited by Berteinstein; 10-18-2011 at 09:46 PM. Reason: Forgot my sgnatre
    Asking all things relevant-

  6. #1401
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Northumberland U.K.
    Posts
    65
    Best way is just press the old shaft out with a vice and a piece of tube. Get a 2mm Reamer blank (or even some 2mm piano wire - I think you can get that from Radio control plane suppliers - made by one of the German companies, I think Graupner), radius the end you are going to shove through the hole and push it on using the vice. I have even soldered the "Hone hub" onto the shaft if the hole in the hub becomes a little slack, but if you do this, it's an idea to countersinhk the hole on the hub slightly so you build a small fillet of solder each side of the hone hub when you solder it on, then toss it in a drill or lathe and carefully clean the shaft up of any solder which may have flowed down the shaft and would restrict the movement of the hone through the motor bearings. It's far cheaper than buying a new hone.

    vbr Andy BS
    AB Slotsport
    Andy B

  7. #1402
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    804
    How about this guys. The shaft may not be bent. The hole in the hone may not be centered and no matter how many straight shafts you install the problem won't go away.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  8. #1403
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by caprikinggus View Post
    Hey SCR! This is a family channel, watch your nugoes. Gus in Sacto
    This is a lennahc ylimaf Gus, not a family channel!!!
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  9. #1404
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    Finally got the latest Mack F1 eurosport up and RTR last night. The CAT body...


    DSCN4398 by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    The car under the body...


    DSCN4399 by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    The "Piero Spec" Camen ultrashort motor slammed down on top of the chassis...


    DSCN4400 by svtgeorge, on Flickr

    The motor fits beautifully into this chassis...note the slot in the chassis where the motor tab fits right in....a little trimming of the endbell and it fits right down into the motor box. Maybe Richard can modify this part of the chassis, elongate the motor box so this kind of motor fits in easily.


    DSCN4401 by svtgeorge, on Flickr
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  10. #1405
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Paonia, Colorado
    Posts
    1,452
    SR,

    Isn't the F1 crown gear that you're running the one that is run 0.5 mm hypoid? Is yours set up like that?

    Greg

  11. #1406
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    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg N View Post
    SR,

    Isn't the F1 crown gear that you're running the one that is run 0.5 mm hypoid? Is yours set up like that?

    Greg
    Yes Greg, when you drop a motor in with a .480" diameter arm and make the motor low enough so the bottom of the armature is even with the bottom of the chassis, it turns out just right for that hypoid crown. The math works out very nicely. I have a brass block for motor mounting...for those unfamiliar with the mounting block, it is very small brass block with a 2mm hole going through for the axle (also available in 3/32") and a 1.5mm hole for the armature shaft (also available in 2mm). For the Vitula gear, I have a block with the armature hole 0.5mm below the axis of the axle hole. However, I don't use it anymore because I found that all you have to do is slam the .480" armature down to bottom of the chassis....you get the same thing. If you look carefully at the photos, you'll see that the sides of the motor are also right on top of the chassis....again, the math works great as this is a .400"T magnet set up, so with the set up slammed down on top of the chassis, the arm hangs down perfectly. Almost as if they designed the Vitula gear for exactly this purpose!

    I just have to say that once I changed my F1 eurosport program away from the horrible green crown gears and started using very soft motors, things have gotten much more pleasant in F1 racing....before they were a scarey nightmare to drive....now they are merely a disturbing dream....
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  12. #1407
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    270
    Who makes that F1 body???
    Thanks in advance

  13. #1408
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    Jun 2002
    Location
    Paonia, Colorado
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    1,452
    SR,

    I agree with the tame motors! I've had one for 3-4 years now, and it changed the whole class for me.

    I still use the little green gears tho, and they work fine for me. I ran the entire worlds practice sessions and the race with the same crown gear. Both the green gears and the red hypoid ones were common there. I had Rob Voska's new F1 there to try it out. It was real nice, but it was continually stripping the crown gear. We (Roger S and I) remounted it to assure that it was in right, but it didn't help. The car and motor are currently off at Ron Van Wagnen's to see if he can fix the problem.

    Greg

  14. #1409
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    Jan 2011
    Location
    Richmond, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by dante View Post
    Who makes that F1 body???
    Thanks in advance
    That's the CAT Red Bull body, pretty much the best one right now. I painted Gugu's new Ferrari last night. Gugu gave them to the F1 racers at the Nats this year and I am finally getting around to trying it. So, I might end up saying his body is the best one! However, right now I would opt for the CAT body. One source is Dave Harvey at Won O Won, he's in the UK, but a great vendor. I think he must be sitting in front of his computer 24/7 because he always answers my emails as soon as I send them! Then my order goes out right away and the air mail usually only takes a week max.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
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  15. #1410
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    Jan 2011
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg N View Post
    SR,

    I agree with the tame motors! I've had one for 3-4 years now, and it changed the whole class for me.

    I still use the little green gears tho, and they work fine for me. I ran the entire worlds practice sessions and the race with the same crown gear. Both the green gears and the red hypoid ones were common there. I had Rob Voska's new F1 there to try it out. It was real nice, but it was continually stripping the crown gear. We (Roger S and I) remounted it to assure that it was in right, but it didn't help. The car and motor are currently off at Ron Van Wagnen's to see if he can fix the problem.

    Greg
    Greg, what pinion did Wallbasher use? I didn't mention that I use the 1.5mm hole 72 pitch 7 tooth pinion....it has a true gear profile whereas if you try to go with a six tooth, the profile gets a lot more like a triangle, no reverse curvature towards the base of the tooth like the 7 tooth. His pinion might be the problem.
    Journeyman Industrial Slotcar Worker, Teamsters Local 3299 AFL-CIO
    Now with "Improved Karma"

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