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Thread: Wing car racing: any tips?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Wing car racing: any tips?

    I can get second every week at my local raceway but I always get outlapped by the same person and we both have the same driving skills but his car just out handles mine any tips?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
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    Wisconsin
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    We need more information. Type of car, type of chassis. type of track ect....
    [COLOR="Black"]TEAM ACES AND 8's http://f2000.us/[/url]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    53

    Wing cars any tips

    It is a proslot motor with proslot arm and red fox endbell it is a proslot chassis 1/24scale we race it on a 180 foot track use an outsight designs body with slick 7 wing kit I have been using jk small hub plastic hubs either normal or treated depending on track conditions

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Boise, ID.
    Posts
    498
    is it a box stock 12???? what gear ratio????? and exactly what body??? corvette, viper, tiga,?????
    Jim Dalton
    Bone Bodies

    ISCC
    Dub Motors
    PMP Chassis
    3rd Eye controllers
    jd102454@yahoo.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    NorthWesterner now in Philippines
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    9,457
    Quote Originally Posted by Kawi rider 13 View Post
    I can get second every week at my local raceway but I always get outlapped by the same person and we both have the same driving skills but his car just out handles mine any tips?
    Funny how often we assume it's the car...

    Just a thought... see if the guy beating you would swap cars for a little "grudge match" test race. If YOU beat him - then you'll know you need to work on your car. But if HE still beats you.... then maybe you need to work on your driving!

    There is ALWAYS room to improve on BOTH car & driver!

    Either way... there are always so many things that can be done to improve the handling as well as speed of your car. There is a vast amount of info here in the forums, and many people willing to give advice and answer questions.

    You just need to give a lot more specifics about your car, motor, track etc. so that other racers can give you specific suggestions. If you can give class, model, type, info (not just brand - every brand makes a wide variety) that would give us a clue as to what you are running - and if you could post a photo of your car (top & bottom) that would be even better!

    Hang in there - give some more info & I'm sure you'll get some help!
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    Paul Kassens
    OWH Slot Car Talk "Mom"
    The Old Weird Herald
    email: paulk@oldweirdherald.com

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Ashburn, VA
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    Paul,

    I have noticed a reoccuring theme over the years here on OWH.

    The issue comes up when newbies ask questions; they never provide enough info up front to be able to give them a decent answer. Maybe they don't know what to ask.

    How about putting together a template on "how to ask a question" with examples of the type of information required from the "asker". This way we don't have to play 20 questions to get any where....

    Maybe questions about chassis; motors; bodies; tires; gears; etc....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    53
    It's a blue king hill climb track with two straights my gearing is 9/38 I use a 36 band diffalco controller it's a 43 degree proslot arm and proslot can with redfox endbell hardwarethe arm has nearly 20 races on it and I rebuild the motor every 2-3 races I use 765 size jk tires treated or untreated depending on track conditions I use an outsight bodies corvette body with a slick 7 .007 wing kit and I also slim the tires and hubs on a tire truer to 3/4 their original width to help reduce chattering I use proslot gold dust brushes and champion springs and a proslot front bearing and my local raceway does not allow shunt wire but my car beats him on the straight away it's just handling I'm worried about because there are certain turns his car can go through full throttle that mine can't I'm just wondering about all and any 1/24 scale wing car tips

  8. #8
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    Apr 2010
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    NEW LOCATION COMING SOON
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    In my years of wing racing I learned 1 very important thing. Body mounting is far more important then about anything on the car. Try moving the body front and back and Im confident you will find what you like. Also seems you may have a case of needing a lower downforce body since you mention it chatters alot. Races are won in the turns and doughnut. Try the pirannah treated and I feel small hub isnt the ticket for wing cars
    Gilbert, AZ
    Falcon Wing/G12/Flexi/Nascar/Drag Race

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Boise, ID.
    Posts
    498
    try an O/S viper body, cut the length at 5 5/8th, rear height at 1 3/16th... mount it 3/32th from the guide flag and us the .005 wing kit........ I would also use a medium wonder rubber tire on a big hub ..... alpha makes a good one for wing cars......
    Jim Dalton
    Bone Bodies

    ISCC
    Dub Motors
    PMP Chassis
    3rd Eye controllers
    jd102454@yahoo.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Marshall, Michigan
    Posts
    9
    if your car slows down alot in the later part of your race, you may need a new arm or magnet zap. Koford arms are very strong and reliable. In box 12 i prefer .518's and .532 airgap for most tracks. Just sending your arm out for a recondition could get you a big change in power.
    Box Racer DW

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Stratford CT
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    1,873
    An O/S Vette normally has more downforce then you need in a G12 car, when you say its winged with a .007 wing kit do you mean the sidedams are .007 or the spoiler or both? If its the spoiler then you are really running too much downforce, which could easily explain the chattering especially with soft tires. Is it a premount body, if so from who? The easiest fixes would be to try harder tires, the Med Wonder rubber already suggested cut to the hub and also replacing the .007 spoiler (if that is what it is) with an .005 spoiler. Could you provide the length and height (in the back) of the body. Also what are the glue conditions you are racing in, spray glue, no glue, full glue? You say you have 20 races on the arm, and rebuild after 2 or 3 races, Do you send the arm out for every rebuild ? Keep answering the questions and the responders will get closer to a solution, we still don't have enough info. A couple of pictures would be invaluable if possible.
    MON THE BIFF !!!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Umatilla, Fl
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldweirdherald View Post
    Funny how often we assume it's the car...

    Just a thought... see if the guy beating you would swap cars for a little "grudge match" test race. If YOU beat him - then you'll know you need to work on your car. But if HE still beats you.... then maybe you need to work on your driving!
    Paul,

    There you go again, making sense! Why do you continue to bring this concept to us?

    Actually it is one of the best ideas and so simple to really end the discussion. If you win with his car, then it's the car. If he still beats you . . . . . well I'll let you make up your mind. However if you really need a bit of assistance in determining the answer, we'll be more than happy to make sure you get everything you have coming!

    If it is the driver, there are a lot of things that can be done. The most important of these is to spend more time at the track rather then on the keyboard. Just an idea.
    Last edited by oldweirdherald; 06-03-2011 at 11:09 AM. Reason: added quote
    Florida Slotter, aka Marty Stanley,
    A "Double 60's" Slot Racer
    Killer X Raceways Team Racer

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    NorthWesterner now in Philippines
    Posts
    9,457
    This bit of wisdom came from a similar circumstance at a 1/32 club race I was at, many years ago. The race was with stock (supposedly) out-of-the-box Scalextric Caterham 7 1/32 cars... these cars have little tiny button magnets and are not only slow, but challenging to drive, to put it nicely.

    My car was a real TURD, and I was getting lapped by the entire field in nearly every heat. It was laffable. I swear those button magnets had ZERO downforce. When I complained, however, "Scottrick", who was kicking my butt, insisted that he was just a better driver then me.

    His continued boasting got old real quick, so I challenged Scottrick to a "grudge match" race after the club racing was over. We would race with our own cars one minute, then swap cars and race another minute.

    So... after Scottrick won the regular race quite handily, and I was dead last... the challenge was ON. Everyone gathered around to watch, as we swapped cars for the one minute race-off.

    Of course Scott won the first heat using our own cars... which he continued to claim was proof of his superior driving ability.

    In the 2nd heat, however, I was already lapping Scott by the 3rd lap. He got so frustrated he pulled his controller and quit in disgust. It was MY turn to gloat and I said "See? What did I tell you?!?" while laughing...

    Scott retaliated with "Oh Yeah? Well your car SUCKS!!!"

    "I rest my case", I replied smugly, as I handed him back his car. I retired my Caterham, and have not raced it since.

    But at least I believe I redeemed myself as a driver.

    I later took it apart & examined it... but couldn't find anything wrong with it. Some cars are just plain lemons.

    Anyone want to buy a Scalextric Caterham 7 car - cheap - used only once???

    Anyway - back to the wing car advice - great posts gang!

    Good to see some of you veteran racers taking the time to help out a new young racer!
    Last edited by oldweirdherald; 06-03-2011 at 11:44 AM.
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    Paul Kassens
    OWH Slot Car Talk "Mom"
    The Old Weird Herald
    email: paulk@oldweirdherald.com

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  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Umatilla, Fl
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    1,199
    Kawi Rider,

    I see that you have this thread and another, "Champion Chassis" thread both running concurrently. Let me say this about that . . . . . you might want to rethink having so many candles lighted at both ends. Take a step back, concentrate on one type of car and get it all sorted out. Trust me, this might sound like a bunch of drivel at this time, but all of a suddent, things will light up and all your slot car issues will work themselves out. It just happens that way, trust me on this.

    Go to a large race some time and just sit there and watch. Call it 'observing' if you will. The whole idea is to just sit and see what folks are doing. Try and pick out who is going to win a race and all of a sudden you will notice the fact that the person is concentrating on the class being raced next is the one that will do well, if not win. All of a sudden you have the answer, do one thing at a time, do it very well and then move on to the next. It works like that for many things. We tend to scatter ourselves about in our zeal to learn new things.

    If you are a new racer, take your time, enjoy and learn one new thing each time. The most important thing you can do is spend time on the track, with one car and one car only. Start on red, then white and so on. Run each lane until you meet or beat the time you ran on the last lane. It just gives you the ability to learn.

    And the most important things of all is to have FUN!
    Florida Slotter, aka Marty Stanley,
    A "Double 60's" Slot Racer
    Killer X Raceways Team Racer

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Earth MI
    Posts
    39
    I put a J/k advanced low cut guide on my Proslot parimiter chassis. It,s unbeatable
    cheers

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