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Thread: axle bushing help please

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Lilburn Georgia
    Posts
    61

    axle bushing help please

    I am having a problem with axle bushings in my cars. When I solder them in I can get them to the point where if you turn the car on it's side the axle will fall out on its own. The problem I have is the wheels just dont spin well. I have seen some cars where the bushings spin as well as bearings but I just can't get there. Is there any set up tools you use for proper alignment or any process of reaming or polishing axles or bushings. Thanks any help will be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    804
    You need a chassis block to square the chassis to the axle and a set of wheel blocks to set the axle height evenly on both sides. Sometimes the axle holes are not quite even and require a small amount of filing so that both axle blocks are level. If your using acid flux to install the bushings they will need to be cleaned using a small brush (not a wire brush) that is able to go through the axle hole (I use an eyelash brush) with either lighter fluid or I use Softscrub and hot water. If you did everything correctly the axle will fall right through and your wheels will spin like bearings.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Umatilla, Fl
    Posts
    1,199
    Also if you do all the above and they still don't spin like others, then I have an additional question for you.

    That would be what type of oil are you using?

    It makes a huge difference.
    Florida Slotter, aka Marty Stanley,
    A "Double 60's" Slot Racer
    Killer X Raceways Team Racer

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    625
    I have found a number of drill blank axles that are tight. Switch over to #42 drill blanks in lieu of
    3/32" drill blanks and you'll probably be ok. They #42 are 3/10ths smaller.(.0938 to .0935) I also like to "break in" the bearings by spinning the bare axle with a dremel for several seconds. Polishing the ID of the oilite with some pipe cleaners and brasso will make them slick as a whisker, clean with lighter fluid and reoil.................this is assuming you are using 3/32" axles?
    Why make it tougher than it really is?
    e-mail: scrgeo@comcast.net

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Lilburn Georgia
    Posts
    61
    Thanks for the info, I am a drag racer and a few of the classes we race make bushings mandatory. I will try what you have mentioned above and see if I can get better spinning wheels. The oil I use is either glidex from slick 7 or Stans oil from Kelly Racing. If you have any reccomendations for oil I'd like to hear them. Also has anyone tried soaking bushings in Zmax?
    Now for a different bushing would polishing motor bushings or running a 2mm shaft in a dremel help motor bushings as well?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    1,937
    You could also try aligning your bushings using a gage pin, rather than a drill blank.
    I like long walks, especially when they're taken by people who annoy me.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    North East Florida
    Posts
    29
    badvader, Try using your drill with a square toothpick (not round) chucked. Put just a small dab of white tooth paste on it and spin it in the bearing. This will burnish the inside and make it very smooth and clean. Be sure to use a quality machine oil afterwards and you are in business.
    Charles Ray Neal, aka TorqueMutant

    Taking lives is something I definitely find offensive!
    But roughing up criminal terrorists a bit doesn't faze me at all! - Superman

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Boise, ID.
    Posts
    498
    use Stan's oil
    Jim Dalton
    Bone Bodies

    ISCC
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    PMP Chassis
    3rd Eye controllers
    jd102454@yahoo.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Wesley Chapel, FL.
    Posts
    1,385

    Thumbs up Oil

    Many years ago. I was having troubles with S7 brass bushings seizing. I called Rudy and he recomended using a thin synthetic oil. He has come oit with one and so has Monty O. I have used 5W/20 Mobile 1 and the B O W Kewie Pee to very good success. I polish with an eye liner brush and silver polish, Clean well & oil and run. Haven't had a problem in 14 years

    OLPHRT
    PHIL I.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    332
    This is how I do it. For jig wheels I use two gears I will be using on the chassis to level the axle. With an axle through the ball bearings tack solder the top of each bearing. Remove the gears and solder the ball bearings all the way around being careful not to get acid in them. Then clean the bearings under water using a soft brush. Now you may find that the bearings do not turn free after oiling. That's because when you heated the oil in the bearing while soldering it broke down. I now drop a little Lacquer thinner on the bearing, slip an axle through it with an old tire on the end and turn the bearing as fast as I can until it frees up and turns smooth. You may have do this procedure a few times on each bearing to clean the bearing out. After it is clean and runs smooth I oil it with a good synthetic like the Mobile 1 mentioned above.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by Speedshop View Post
    This is how I do it. For jig wheels I use two gears I will be using on the chassis to level the axle. With an axle through the ball bearings tack solder the top of each bearing. Remove the gears and solder the ball bearings all the way around being careful not to get acid in them. Then clean the bearings under water using a soft brush. Now you may find that the bearings do not turn free after oiling. That's because when you heated the oil in the bearing while soldering it broke down. I now drop a little Lacquer thinner on the bearing, slip an axle through it with an old tire on the end and turn the bearing as fast as I can until it frees up and turns smooth. You may have do this procedure a few times on each bearing to clean the bearing out. After it is clean and runs smooth I oil it with a good synthetic like the Mobile 1 mentioned above.
    Stupid question... after you get everything aligned and then when you heat up one side to "get things spinning better" don't you potentially lose the alignment. Or is it if you only heat up one side at a time then you don't actually lose the alignment.

    I used to do the same thing to get my bushings as "free" as possible and spin like bearings. Then I got a jig and started doubting myself. So now I use the jig and get it aligned and then use a dremel and some oil to "break-in" the bushings. After I'm done they spin really good but I always think that I could get them better if I heated one side up like I used to.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    625
    Bearings are much more forgiving on installation than bushings. Bearings allow the cone to rock around on the balls where bushings are absolute and need perfect alignment to be the best they can be. In my experience with bearings, always clean them very well before you put the heat to them, the packing oil can crystallize when you heat them up and make them feel rough, so if you remove all the grease they are packed with initially, you will have less problems. Even the cheapo bearings now offered work pretty well for retro when cleaned and installed. They do not last as long as top shelf Class 7 bearings but we are not running the kind of RPM the euro and Gp 7 cars turn, so they are sufficient for our purposes, and they are $18 cheaper a pair.

    Here's one for you, one of the top elite Group 7 racers says": flood the bearings with acid flux and spin with your fingers for a couple of minutes and then spray them all out real well and oil as usual. WOW! I have tried it and it works too. BTW, hes won several Group 7 USRA Chamionships, so who am I to disagree with his methods.

    Here's a really tricky way for alignment but when it works, they are great. Once installed put power to axle with your motor and gear on, then heat easily with your iron and they will self align and be perfect, too much heat and instead of aligning they will break loose and spin, everything is lost and you have to start over again, but if you do it real cautiously, the bushing will just tilt and align itself. Its pretty tough to do. LOL

    The break in with the dremel will be probably me more than adequate for our level of racing.
    Why make it tougher than it really is?
    e-mail: scrgeo@comcast.net

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,201
    Proformance Racing sells a bearing install tool takes all the guess work out . perfect alignment and you jig height same time.Done deal
    Motors By Mic B
    Balance By PoppaPower
    A Clean Slot Car is a Happy Slot Car
    Garden State ISRA Club Home of the Anaconda
    Tires by the Hermanator
    www.TheISrausa.com

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Lilburn Georgia
    Posts
    61
    I do mostly use Stans oil I have picked up some ideas i will be trying in my next builds I figgured you roundy guys had more ideas so thats why I posted here instead of in the drag forum. I am going to invest in the proformance bearing tool I think it will help me out there. I also have heard of the acid flux trick but never had the nerve to try it, I might try it out with a cheep set of bearings and see what happens. I have used the S-7 bronze units in the past have any of you had any luck with the JK adjustable bushings?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Lilburn Georgia
    Posts
    61
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill from NH View Post
    You could also try aligning your bushings using a gage pin, rather than a drill blank.
    Wher would you get one of these i tried on Mcmaster Carr but couldn't find anything.

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