.

.

Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: JK Horky F1 JRL

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Charles Town, WV
    Posts
    1,252

    JK Horky F1 JRL

    Has anyone built one yet?

    Can you post pictures of the build in progress or detailed pictures of the completed build?

    Below is the picture on the JK website. It states no building instructions are available...



    Thanks...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	JK26901..jpg 
Views:	540 
Size:	20.5 KB 
ID:	14187  


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    1,938
    I bet Lee Gilbert can show the best way to build it. The same question is being asked on Slotblog by someone else.
    I like long walks, especially when they're taken by people who annoy me.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    463

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    701
    Be sure to pre fit the pieces in the slots, some of the previous batches had a problem with them being too thick for the cut slots.

    A pretty easy build other than that.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 1988
    Location
    Seattle Washington
    Posts
    369
    Current batch still has the fit issue, its due to design in metric and steel being cut in imperial.
    Jim Radford
    Pacific Slot Car Raceways
    http://www.shoppscr.com
    Visit us on Facebook
    (253) 446-5039
    Host site of the 2014 & 2016 DIV II USRA Nationals

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    DeSoto Mo
    Posts
    266
    That explains my disappointment when building mine. What a pain to file down everything just to make it fit. That said, the BullDog 3 I bought had the same issues.
    Have a Great Day
    Mark

    "Racing is life........Everything else,,,,,,,,,, is just waiting" Steve McQueen in Le Mans

    "There are only two things in this world that make me feel alive. Racing is one of them." Mark H

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    grove city ohio
    Posts
    201
    Guys:
    How about an easy fix, change the program to allow a little more room. The cutter who does our chassis work tells me to allow .001 - .002 for tolerance. If the program is done correctly there is no reason you guys should have to file or grind on anything. it only gets worse if they are plated or coated and changes are not made. Sounds simple right.
    Thanks Ron

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    boise, ID
    Posts
    218
    we had the same issues with the first PMP chassis. it was drawn with metric specs and it called for .039 or 1mm steel. the american steel came in .042. easy to overlook
    IDAHO SCC
    dub motors
    herminator tires
    PMP chassis
    Redfox
    BBB

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    DeSoto Mo
    Posts
    266
    It is just most people do not know how big .001" is when you are trying to press thing together. Not sure I would call it an over look. It is real easy to create both metric and American sized holes. It is called paying attention to details. I have to do this everyday at work on hundreds of components that have to fit. 2mm stock should be off the shelf if it has 2mm wide slots. A no brainer.
    OK, I'm done......
    Have a Great Day
    Mark

    "Racing is life........Everything else,,,,,,,,,, is just waiting" Steve McQueen in Le Mans

    "There are only two things in this world that make me feel alive. Racing is one of them." Mark H

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    DeSoto Mo
    Posts
    266
    Here are some pics

    I did the rear of the chassis first and then the guide assembly in a jig. Notice hoe i used a piece of bent wire to hold the motor both in the rear and front of motor.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	JK-HR-Indy-06..jpg 
Views:	423 
Size:	32.2 KB 
ID:	14192

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	JK-HR-Indy-02..jpg 
Views:	394 
Size:	23.1 KB 
ID:	14190

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	JK-HR-Indy-05..jpg 
Views:	419 
Size:	33.8 KB 
ID:	14189

    The the front uprights. Note the small U shaped clip about the bottom of the upright
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	JK-HR-Indy-01..jpg 
Views:	373 
Size:	28.9 KB 
ID:	14193

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	JK-HR-Indy-03..jpg 
Views:	415 
Size:	31.3 KB 
ID:	14194

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	JK-HR-Indy-04..jpg 
Views:	372 
Size:	35.7 KB 
ID:	14191

    Solder complete the front end parts except the pan keeper hooks on the main chassis. Solder the rear cross bar keepers in place first is what I did for the pan install. Push the pans all the way back and tape them and the main chassis in position. Then position and solder the keeper hooks to the main chassis with the wishbone things onto the front of the pans in one setup. Be sure to leave room for the pans to float forward.

    On the track the chassis is pretty good. Might need some lead on the pans? I have not reached that part of tuning yet.
    Have a Great Day
    Mark

    "Racing is life........Everything else,,,,,,,,,, is just waiting" Steve McQueen in Le Mans

    "There are only two things in this world that make me feel alive. Racing is one of them." Mark H

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •