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Thread: Air Gap

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    809
    philirv
    Not to be a party crasher but I don't think you have it quite right. I have raced both high bank and flat track and what you'll find out is this. The flat track car prefers a larger air gap, I usually run .540 with a .518 arm or .580 with a .540 arm. The only difference is Proslot American big arm (.580) 16Ds, they seem to really like .575 for any track, at least mine do. The main reason is to remove the twitchieness from the motor and give a smoother transition from brake to full or part throttle ,since your on and off the throttle several times per lap, the car becomes more driveable and can be fine tuned with the controller sensitivity. I would like to add that flat track motors work much better with larger diameter arms and it doesn't hurt to have a really good electronic controller to help calm the motor down. The motors used in racing on all out high banked King tracks like the G9 I use to race on could care less about twitchieness since there usually full bore and are only blipped occasionally on the gutter lanes. These motors usually have air gaps of .528-.530 or less with .513 arms and .530-.535 with .518 arms. I usually run my GP12 motors at .530 with .513 arms and .533 with .518 arms. However, I also try different arms in different setups with different air gaps and when they're happy together they stay together.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    HollyHill FL
    Posts
    237
    I've been running air gaps as big as .540 for .513 arms on banked tracks Fast Freddie. So it can depend on car set up & driving style. Pick you poison. Lol
    KellyRacing

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    809
    So true DZ what ever works on a given day is what you use. In the early 90s I never worried about air gap on my C-can motors. I just made sure the magnets were square in the setup when I epoxied them in and that the brushes rode on the center of the comm. they worked fine with .513 arms. To this day I don't know what the air gaps were. Ran 11x37 gear with .765 tires of many different colors. I managed a few wins.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    126

    Thumbs up

    FREDDIE,

    My racing of the last 10 years has been with tracks that have a slight to monster banking. I found, for my liking, that the larger gap seemed to give me a wider power band that helped on higher speed straights. What I gave up coming out of the slow turns I more than made up on the longer,faster sections. The smaller gaps helped on the slower, shorter straights cause of the more power down low but would quit pulling up hi..Just mite be different style of driving..Ya don't really know untill ya try. What works for one may not work for another.

    OLPHRT
    PHIL I.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    boise, ID
    Posts
    218
    our wing motors often run between .528 and .530 with a .518 arm. the box12 motors race the entire race without building much heat. the flat track motors we race are usually the .540 arms in a .552. the flat track motors have a lot of power and can be a handful

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    10
    I have testet .528, .530 and .533 with .518 arm. (On king track)
    I kinda like .533, .530 aint bad either. With good body setup you can handle car pretty smooth and fast turns.

    Other track that is more turns or close to a flat track, i havent tested .540 *yet* but i am going to build one as i heard some say it goes smooth and easier to handle turns with scala car (with good controller too, like Carsteen Controller)
    Most probalty going to try .535 before go on .540

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