.

.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 56

Thread: Retro Setup Question

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Long Island,N.Y.
    Posts
    928
    Fred,
    The top racers were doing this no holds barred motor work because the stock motors sucked eggs. The also ran guys couldn't do this work or get the "good stuff". So they dropped out. Today we have $13 motors that are plenty fast. There is just no point in building $100+ motors. There is Retro Pro for the builders.

    Maybe one more tweak to the IRRA AW class : Built Puppy Dogs. I know there are tons of those laying about.
    Last edited by Sam pan; 08-25-2014 at 05:18 PM.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Irvine, CA
    Posts
    327
    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Freddie View Post
    Then I have a question for you Dennis. During that time period of building chassis didn't they also rewind, dewind, and custom build motors? Wasn't that also part of "the thing to do" at that time in slot car racing? Wasn't that part of the same time period or did I miss an era? Leaving out an entire faction (motor builders) just to placate some never did seem right to me.
    Yes, but it was generally not the same people doing both, and it was the frame builders who decided to resurrect the idea of building. None of the motor builders of the time were still around or interested when retro started up on SoCal. It was only once the whole genre took off that the motor builders became interested, and by then the rules were set and had started attracting larger numbers of racers who had no interest in motor building.
    Dennis Samson

    Scratchbuilding is life
    Life is scratchbuilt

    Samson Classics

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Long Island,N.Y.
    Posts
    928
    Why do wing car racers bother building motors? I don't get it. They should just use sealed motors. It would make the racing easier and cheaper to run. It just makes no sense at all to build motors anymore.
    Last edited by Sam pan; 08-25-2014 at 06:56 PM.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    797
    Well Sam if you don't get it I can see why you race retro. On the other hand I've been building motors since the mid 60s and I understand the reason I do and so do all the other motor builders. It's great that a competitive $16 motor has come along in retro. I once asked what would happen if the new FK motor ended up being faster than the $50+ PD and I was told don't worry it won't happen. OOPS!!!!
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Long Island,N.Y.
    Posts
    928
    Fred,
    I was being sarcastic. Sorry you missed that. But I couldn't resist since you always bring up the built motor thing and always get the same answers.

    I have always raced spec'ed out built motors till I got back into racing a few years ago. FCR Hardbody,Flexi GTP,Retro. All sealed motor classes. I have raced a few Box 12 Wing races. I find these new light weight C cans too flimsy. Or I crash too hard. But many racers today can't even change a set of brushes. We came from a different time. There are only a hand full of people capable of winding arms today. John Havlicek being one of them. My Havlicek motors and arms are some of my most treasured slot items. As are my NCC-20 MURA motors. But there is no place to race 'em. So it's sealed up sardine can motors for now. But who knows? My modified IRRA AW car with built PDs may be the next best new thing.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Stratford CT
    Posts
    1,873
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam pan View Post
    Why do wing car racers bother building motors? I don't get it. They should just use sealed motors. It would make the racing easier and cheaper to run. It just makes no sense at all to build motors anymore.
    For wing racers it is all about the speed. Chassis are fairly standardized as they have been heavily developed over many years, and with correct tire and body choice you can get a car optimally hooked up, the biggest variable really is the motor, ( and driving, as the faster the car the more difficult the driving). So wing cars really are about the motor, just like retro is about the chassis. A hooked up wing car with a bag motor would be completely boring as it would be way to slow relative to the potential of the car. And before someone goes off on "anybody can drive a wing car" scale racers don't really understand what driving a wing car means. They equate it with going around turns which is the hard part for scale (doing it fast). Wing cars are easy to drive but difficult to race, the hard part to driving wing cars is driving through traffic. The speeds are so high that the margin for error is very small and the punishment for error can be quite big. A three car wing race is a snooze, a full field can be quite a pump.
    Last edited by hesketh; 08-26-2014 at 08:02 AM.
    MON THE BIFF !!!

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, Va.
    Posts
    797
    I only bring up the built motor thing because building motors was always part of my slot car racing life. I never built a chassis until just before the first retro race at The Track in Gaithersburg, Md. I believe in the early 2000s. However, I have been building motors since the mid 60s when I did my first Cox 250 and put it in a cast chassis Cox Chaparral, then 20 yrs. in the Navy, then in the late 80s I discovered slot car racing hadn't died after all so I began building motors again, from the lowly PARMA 16D to G7. It's in my blood. My triumphs and failures all in one endeavor.
    I've done so much with so little for so long it seems like I can do anything with nothing at all.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Great Valley,NY
    Posts
    1,227
    3 1/8 wide Can Am cars on modern tracks make NO sense.
    I think that`s the #1 ****ed up rule in Retro.
    There are many more, but 3 1/8 is the dumbest.

    I sold all my retro **** and I am done wasting my time and money with it.

    I would like to get back into racing Wings but I`m not willing to drive 6 hours or more to race.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    HollyHill FL
    Posts
    237
    Maybe it makes no sense to you but it sure does to a lot of participants. That is many!

    Major bummer there is no wing car racing near you. In my state series they race GPF (hawk6 or hawk 7 motors) and GP12s spray glue. I race wings every blue moon but not really my cup of tea.
    KellyRacing

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    1,906
    Mike, what's your closest track now? Rochester, a couple hours drive? If you don't like the drive or the classes they run, look for a closer club track. The last commercial raceway in this area closed in 2010. Eventually, I found a 1/24 hard body club that run's weekly on a Tunkel Brothers 4-lane Mini-Orange track. They don't run flexis, but who cares?
    I like long walks, especially when they're taken by people who annoy me.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    HollyHill FL
    Posts
    237
    Quote Originally Posted by La Cucaracha View Post
    I am having a hard time getting my Can Am Cars set up.
    They seem to deslot with little or no warning.
    Other cars I race are easy to watch and I can tell when I`m going too hard.

    Do you want the guide angled up a little like on regular slot cars?

    Most all the comments I hear are "They don`t drive like a flexi car."

    I`ve tried several kinds of tires and messed with guide spacing already.
    I have 2 nice chassis and I would like to start having fun racing these things but so far it sucks.
    Not sure how you would win in retro? You can't get the car to go through the turns. That is not a winning formula.
    KellyRacing

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    HollyHill FL
    Posts
    237
    Quote Originally Posted by La Cucaracha View Post
    Best I can tell Dennis, they come out mid turn most of the time.
    The don`t seem to be sliming.
    Thanks for the advise.
    Not a winning formula.
    KellyRacing

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    HollyHill FL
    Posts
    237
    Quote Originally Posted by La Cucaracha View Post
    The cost vs. speed aspect is definitely part of the turn off for me.

    A Puppy Dog motor and a chassis kit alone are nearly $90.

    There are several factors that make me dislike retro.
    You don't need a puppy dog to win. So far every track I've raced on the JK retro hawk has been faster. A cheap motor that you push for on a regular basis. So a chassi kit and motor are around 54-58$ range, tops.
    KellyRacing

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    denver colorado
    Posts
    8
    so i have a question and hope to here some why's and why not.
    i bought two chassis from a friend that was getting out of racing do to health reasons. I have been using the dragon slayer 3 chassis and mainly a jk d3 style chassis. But wanted to see what my friend was raving about. the two chassis i bought had the newer tuning fork down the middle so what i did was wanted to find out how they truly worked so i ran them both and could not get under a 5.4 second run on my local track so i cut the tuning fork on one chassis and ran it as well. nothing changed i still ran 5.4 and 5.5 second laps. i just dont know what the tuning fork does and how it should be set up. please help me understand the workings and function of the tuning fork. thank you

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Long Island,N.Y.
    Posts
    928
    It allows the chassis to twist but adds longitudinal strength. Is your local track a high speed King or a less swoopy Engleman or HillClimber?

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •